Distance between tort and uvb lamp?

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This is a little test I did a few years ago using ZOOMED lamps. Arcadia are probably even more powerful. At least marginally
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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Not sure if the flood light lamp is perfect. It comes on and off to heat then goes off then heats again then goes off again. Plus it's not really super flooding. I might just switch to one of them Arcadia ones, this brand has yet to fail me.

I'll try giving larger leaves then and let him rip.
I got a smaller border dishes due to that exact issue.
Sounds like your lamp is hooked on the thermostat. But it's better to just run it on timer.

Understood about you flood light. What's the model/maker, by the way?
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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Yeah I use a thermostat, I don't really wanna play around with timers and be worrying about the lamp over heating.
The lamp itself won't overheat. But you can overheat the enclosure.

This can happen with any heat source:
1. you place basking heater thermostat probe in the basking area and set thermostat to 100F.
2. When basking area reaches 100F thermostat will shut off or dim the heater.
3. Meanwhile, ambient temperature in the cold part of the vivarium can reach 90F because thermostat doesn't control it directly.
4. If you place basking heater thermostat probe in the cold end, then basking area can reach 120F, or can stay in 80F.

What you can do? You can take a low wattage basking lamp and adjust mounting height to get correct temperature at the basking zone. Because of the low wattage, dissipated heat will be lower and won't affect ambient viv temperature that much.

And you still need the timers to match day/night cycle (12-14 hours for basking and ambient lights) and sunlight UVB peak (4-6 hours around midday for UVB lamp).
 

PalestTortie

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The lamp itself won't overheat. But you can overheat the enclosure.

This can happen with any heat source:
1. you place basking heater thermostat probe in the basking area and set thermostat to 100F.
2. When basking area reaches 100F thermostat will shut off or dim the heater.
3. Meanwhile, ambient temperature in the cold part of the vivarium can reach 90F because thermostat doesn't control it directly.
4. If you place basking heater thermostat probe in the cold end, then basking area can reach 120F, or can stay in 80F.

What you can do? You can take a low wattage basking lamp and adjust mounting height to get correct temperature at the basking zone. Because of the low wattage, dissipated heat will be lower and won't affect ambient viv temperature that much.

And you still need the timers to match day/night cycle (12-14 hours for basking and ambient lights) and sunlight UVB peak (4-6 hours around midday for UVB lamp).
I'll stay by using a stat, I'd hate to worry all the time.
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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I'll stay by using a stat, I'd hate to worry all the time.
Ok, it's up to you. Then consider using a bright grow light (like Sansi LED) for a visual hint in tandem with ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat. This is not the same as an incandescent lamp in terms of light spectrum, but it's better than flickering basking bulb.
 

PalestTortie

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Ok, it's up to you. Then consider using a bright grow light (like Sansi LED) for a visual hint in tandem with ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat. This is not the same as an incandescent lamp in terms of light spectrum, but it's better than flickering basking bulb.
Again, it's something I have to attach..
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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Again, it's something I have to attach..
Well, yes. You can't have a combined light/heating source and control only heat output with a thermostat. The only idea I can come up with is to still hook an incandescent low wattage basking bulb on a thermostat and move a thermostat probe out of a basking zone. You will adjust lamp height to get correct temperature under it and probe placed in the far end will serve as a safety switch, turning off the basking lamp when ambient temperature reach 86F, for example. Some thermostats allow to set a temperature delta (e.g. let temperature fall down 5-10F before turning on the heater again), this will prevent it from going on and off all the time.
 

PalestTortie

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Well, yes. You can't have a combined light/heating source and control only heat output with a thermostat. The only idea I can come up with is to still hook an incandescent low wattage basking bulb on a thermostat and move a thermostat probe out of a basking zone. You will adjust lamp height to get correct temperature under it and probe placed in the far end will serve as a safety switch, turning off the basking lamp when ambient temperature reach 86F, for example. Some thermostats allow to set a temperature delta (e.g. let temperature fall down 5-10F before turning on the heater again), this will prevent it from going on and off all the time.
That I like lol.


This Arcadia one would work? The lowest it's got is 50 watts sadly.

The distance as far as I can get any lamp to be is just about a foot and a half now that the substrate is in.
 

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