Hatchling temporary 55 gallon plastic tote enclosure

[Kmomzee]

Hey all!
We have a 3-4 month old sulcata tortoise. We are waiting to build our more permanent enclosure this spring/summer.
We used a 55 gallon storage tote and made a closed chambers.
We are getting ready to switch out the substrate-
Current substrate is coco and cypress.
I have orchard bark on the way.

We have 5 light heat sources l- we don’t use all at the same time and honestly I’m just trying to figure out what’s best at the moment.
We have a zooMed UVB 5.0
60w basking bulb
40 w CHE
25w CHE
60w CHE
Trying to figure out best lights to keep temperature before we add timers and our thermostat.

We have holes in the top with the lights zip tied in… yes, it’s not the prettiest, but it’s working great humidity is 90%
We also have 3 govee thermometer and hydrometers.
Please be kind as I got torn apart on another platform. I’m all for learning, but please be kind. I thought I followed Toms care sheet pretty well for the most part, but wanted to share an easy inexpensive way to keep a hatchling especially temporary. We’ll be building in April or may, but s/he is much happier in a larger enclosure (we had him/her in a much smaller tote- but the lights were on top.)

Posted again as it was deleted because I accidentally made multiple posts, my apologies! Thanks!

 

[wellington]

Many of us have started our hatchling in these larger torts. It's one item that used to be mentioned a lot.
You shouldn't need so many che's, it sounds like you bought some off brand ones and they really are no good. The reputable ones come in 100watt and is the only one you should need. They also will last for years where the off brand ones, usually from China, not only doesn't get very hot but don't last long.
Also the heat and light sources look too close to the tort level.
How many inches between the lights and che to top of tort?
The uvb should come from a tube florescent not a mercury bulb or coil bulb.
Then a incandescent flood bulb should be used for basking.
The domes you have is a waste of money. You really should have single ones that are wider domed.
The basking on one end, uvb in the middle of towards the basking and a che or two one on each end, depending on how many you need, usually two tops when the reputable ones are used
Day and night temp 80-85, basking 95-100.

 

[Kmomzee]

Many of us have started our hatchling in these larger torts. It's one item that used to be mentioned a lot.
You shouldn't need so many che's, it sounds like you bought some off brand ones and they really are no good. The reputable ones come in 100watt and is the only one you should need. They also will last for years where the off brand ones, usually from China, not only doesn't get very hot but don't last long.
Also the heat and light sources look too close to the tort level.
How many inches between the lights and che to top of tort?
The uvb should come from a tube florescent not a mercury bulb or coil bulb.
Then a incandescent flood bulb should be used for basking.
The domes you have is a waste of money. You really should have single ones that are wider domed.
The basking on one end, uvb in the middle of towards the basking and a che or two one on each end, depending on how many you need, usually two tops when the reputable ones are used
Day and night temp 80-85, basking 95-100.

Sorry, I forgot to add that to this post and it was added to my original post… light to tort is the correct height. We made sure.
Uvb is from a tube
Our domes work for us, thanks for your input. I think it’s just preference. They were from our last enclosure where we switched basking bulbs for Che manually. We just have it this way so we don’t have to switch manually and it’s what we have.
Our temperatures are correct as well as humidity.

The CHEs are NOT all on at the same time it’s just so I can get my wattage down as we went to a bigger enclosure… like I said 100w would be too hot which is why I’m using lower wattage.

I was asked to share.

 

[Kmomzee]

Sorry, I forgot to add that to this post and it was added to my original post… light to tort is the correct height. We made sure.
Uvb is from a tube
Our domes work for us, thanks for your input. I think it’s just preference. They were from our last enclosure where we switched basking bulbs for Che manually. We just have it this way so we don’t have to switch manually and it’s what we have.
Our temperatures are correct as well as humidity.

The CHEs are NOT all on at the same time it’s just so I can get my wattage down as we went to a bigger enclosure… like I said 100w would be too hot which is why I’m using lower wattage.

I was asked to share.

We literally have our lighting set up pretty much like you said/ I was just stating what’s in there but I only use 2 che at night as the other one I had in there wasn’t holding the temp.
Like i said once I get the temp down I’ll make it all permanent. My temps were in the original post and forgot it on this one as I’m multitasking a toddler lol.
Thanks for your input. Best wishes!

 

[wellington]

Sorry, I forgot to add that to this post and it was added to my original post… light to tort is the correct height. We made sure.
Uvb is from a tube
Our domes work for us, thanks for your input. I think it’s just preference. They were from our last enclosure where we switched basking bulbs for Che manually. We just have it this way so we don’t have to switch manually and it’s what we have.
Our temperatures are correct as well as humidity.

The CHEs are NOT all on at the same time it’s just so I can get my wattage down as we went to a bigger enclosure… like I said 100w would be too hot which is why I’m using lower wattage.

I was asked to share.

Usually it's best to use a thermostat on heating elements. That would have made the 100w the only one needed. Keep that in mind when building your new enclosure.
As for the domes, I understand it's what you have. Others reading this hopefully won't make the same mistake.
It's not really preference as the wider single domes work better and let's more heat out in a bigger area, than in a narrow area. It also makes it much easier to place them in the proper areas instead of all in one place. They are also cheaper when purchased at a hardware store or Home Depot. I used the kind you have years ago, but it was a single one. It and the lights I had in it did not last as long as the wider domes.
I also had the same kind of hatchling enclosure as many of us did. There was no way I could have put the lights/heat inside and them not be too close.
Hopefully yours is taller than mine was. Too close UV can be harmful and same with intense lighting.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

For UVB lights we might just need to know the mounting height and the lamp type. I suppose, that 5.0 lamp can be mounted safely in this tote. Also, what's the box height? Domes look really close to the tortoise (perhaps it's better to remove the domes and leave sockets only, if it's possible). However, low wattage CHEs may work for you (temperatures look fine to me). You can get a temperature gun for quick checks of temperatures of surfaces around the enclosure.

The water dish can be hard for a hatchling to get in and out - shallow non-glazed terracotta saucer sunken in substrate is what usually works best.

All thermometers and hygrometers should be placed closer to the substrate to get accurate readings (we need to know what's happening where tortoise roams).

At a glance the enclosure looks fine to me (especially, when there is a cute little guy inside ). Maybe you can post a link or SKU for the tote box, so other members can find it in stores or online?

 

[Kmomzee]

Many of us have started our hatchling in these larger torts. It's one item that used to be mentioned a lot.
You shouldn't need so many che's, it sounds like you bought some off brand ones and they really are no good. The reputable ones come in 100watt and is the only one you should need. They also will last for years where the off brand ones, usually from China, not only doesn't get very hot but don't last long.
Also the heat and light sources look too close to the tort level.
How many inches between the lights and che to top of tort?
The uvb should come from a tube florescent not a mercury bulb or coil bulb.
Then a incandescent flood bulb should be used for basking.
The domes you have is a waste of money. You really should have single ones that are wider domed.
The basking on one end, uvb in the middle of towards the basking and a che or two one on each end, depending on how many you need, usually two tops when the reputable ones are used
Day and night temp 80-85, basking 95-100.

Hey all!
We have a 3-4 month old sulcata tortoise. We are waiting to build our more permanent enclosure this spring/summer.
We used a 55 gallon storage tote and made a closed chambers.
We are getting ready to switch out the substrate-
Current substrate is coco and cypress.
I have orchard bark on the way.

We have 5 light heat sources l- we don’t use all at the same time and honestly I’m just trying to figure out what’s best at the moment.
We have a zooMed UVB 5.0
60w basking bulb
40 w CHE
25w CHE
60w CHE
Trying to figure out best lights to keep temperature before we add timers and our thermostat.

We have holes in the top with the lights zip tied in… yes, it’s not the prettiest, but it’s working great humidity is 90%
We also have 3 govee thermometer and hydrometers.
Please be kind as I got torn apart on another platform. I’m all for learning, but please be kind. I thought I followed Toms care sheet pretty well for the most part, but wanted to share an easy inexpensive way to keep a hatchling especially temporary. We’ll be building in April or may, but s/he is much happier in a larger enclosure (we had him/her in a much smaller tote- but the lights were on top.)

Posted again as it was deleted because I accidentally made multiple posts, my apologies! Thanks!
View attachment 365001View attachment 365002View attachment 365003

Can admins just delete my post please, i can’t figure out how and I don’t want to just be picked apart and told everything that I’m doing wrong when literally #1 I’m learning and #2 I am pretty much doing everything the person picked me apart for other then their specific preferences on actual products. My heat and humidity are correct and it’s the correct length from my

For UVB lights we might just need to know the mounting height and the lamp type. I suppose, that 5.0 lamp can be mounted safely in this tote. Also, what's the box height? Domes look really close to the tortoise (perhaps it's better to remove the domes and leave sockets only, if it's possible). However, low wattage CHEs may work for you (temperatures look fine to me). You can get a temperature gun for quick checks of temperatures of surfaces around the enclosure.

The water dish can be hard for a hatchling to get in and out - shallow non-glazed terracotta saucer sunken in substrate is what usually works best.

All thermometers and hygrometers should be placed closer to the substrate to get accurate readings (we need to know what's happening where tortoise roams).

At a glance the enclosure looks fine to me (especially, when there is a cute little guy inside ). Maybe you can post a link or SKU for the tote box, so other members can find it in stores or online?

i have a temp

For UVB lights we might just need to know the mounting height and the lamp type. I suppose, that 5.0 lamp can be mounted safely in this tote. Also, what's the box height? Domes look really close to the tortoise (perhaps it's better to remove the domes and leave sockets only, if it's possible). However, low wattage CHEs may work for you (temperatures look fine to me). You can get a temperature gun for quick checks of temperatures of surfaces around the enclosure.

The water dish can be hard for a hatchling to get in and out - shallow non-glazed terracotta saucer sunken in substrate is what usually works best.

All thermometers and hygrometers should be placed closer to the substrate to get accurate readings (we need to know what's happening where tortoise roams).

At a glance the enclosure looks fine to me (especially, when there is a cute little guy inside ). Maybe you can post a link or SKU for the tote box, so other members can find it in stores or online?

hi,
Thank you for being kind… kindness goes a long way instead of telling someone the items they’re using is garbage and doing nothing but bashing… So, I greatly appreciate the feed back. I am absolutely all for learning, but when someone takes time, pride, and love and pours it into their enclosure only to be to roasted… it sucks! So, I greatly appreciate your feedback, truly!

I have a temp gun and it’s the correct temp at the shell. These photos were before I made modifications. My govee thermometers fell and I had to get new adhesive, but I have multiple at the base and then one at the top since heat rises. I’m sure that one is unnecessary, but I’d rather have more then I need, lol.

The box itself is 20 inches and the bottom of the fixture is 13 inches from substrate and another approx 2 inches from the bulb.
I might of said the wrong zoo med light for UVB but it’s the tube that’s recommended. It’s 17.5inches from substrate, The temp at the shell is 94 under basking.
I’m using low wattage basking bulb and CHE which seems to require less distance (correct me if I’m wrong). The lights are actually further away than in my last enclosure. I think it’s just the photo that makes it look non proportionate. Again, I appreciate the feedback and your kindness!

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Hello!
As of UVB light - if it's Reptisun 5.0 it's too high. If it's 10.0 - then the height is fine.

As of temperature sensors: hot air gathering on top is exact the reason to keep them all down to the substrate We need to know if tortoise is comfortable. Measurements are very different between top and bottom both near the basking zone and in the colder area. I would place the sensors in the night hide, closer to the basking zone and somewhere in-between.

20 inches box is not very tall, in fact. I have an enclosure of about the same height and I know all the pain of selecting low-profile fixtures and heaters wattage. The main reason for using wide domes is to make larger basking area with temperature gradient on the border and same for the ambient heating. Giving the tortoise more choices for thermoregulation is the reason. If the basking spot is too narrow for tortoise to fit in and warm up, it's not a good thing.

Please, don't take wellington's words as an offence. While they might sound a bit harsh, it's more of "concentrated experience" than attacking newbies.

 

[wellington]

Hey all!
We have a 3-4 month old sulcata tortoise. We are waiting to build our more permanent enclosure this spring/summer.
We used a 55 gallon storage tote and made a closed chambers.
We are getting ready to switch out the substrate-
Current substrate is coco and cypress.
I have orchard bark on the way.

We have 5 light heat sources l- we don’t use all at the same time and honestly I’m just trying to figure out what’s best at the moment.
We have a zooMed UVB 5.0
60w basking bulb
40 w CHE
25w CHE
60w CHE
Trying to figure out best lights to keep temperature before we add timers and our thermostat.

We have holes in the top with the lights zip tied in… yes, it’s not the prettiest, but it’s working great humidity is 90%
We also have 3 govee thermometer and hydrometers.
Please be kind as I got torn apart on another platform. I’m all for learning, but please be kind. I thought I followed Toms care sheet pretty well for the most part, but wanted to share an easy inexpensive way to keep a hatchling especially temporary. We’ll be building in April or may, but s/he is much happier in a larger enclosure (we had him/her in a much smaller tote- but the lights were on top.)

Posted again as it was deleted because I accidentally made multiple posts, my apologies! Thanks!
View attachment 365001View attachment 365002View attachment 365003

You asked about all the lights and trying to figure what is best.
You shared this so others could see an easy and inexpensive way to house a hatching.
All I did was point out what was needed and the concerns with all you have, so you and others can learn what is best to use and what isn't!
No one is attacking you and I didn't call anything garbage. I think you'd be best to open your mind and learn.
Many of us have used this same enclosure, it's nothing new. I don't remember one of us being able to put lights inside. However, we also didn't use as many low watt items. Many of us also learned this exact way, after we spent money on items we thought was right just to find out they weren't.
If these things aren't pointed out, others may think it's everything they need to buy when there is fewer things needed and better options.
That's what this forum is about. Learning, teaching, sharing.

 

[Tom]

Hey all!
We have a 3-4 month old sulcata tortoise. We are waiting to build our more permanent enclosure this spring/summer.
We used a 55 gallon storage tote and made a closed chambers.
We are getting ready to switch out the substrate-
Current substrate is coco and cypress.
I have orchard bark on the way.

We have 5 light heat sources l- we don’t use all at the same time and honestly I’m just trying to figure out what’s best at the moment.
We have a zooMed UVB 5.0
60w basking bulb
40 w CHE
25w CHE
60w CHE
Trying to figure out best lights to keep temperature before we add timers and our thermostat.

We have holes in the top with the lights zip tied in… yes, it’s not the prettiest, but it’s working great humidity is 90%
We also have 3 govee thermometer and hydrometers.
Please be kind as I got torn apart on another platform. I’m all for learning, but please be kind. I thought I followed Toms care sheet pretty well for the most part, but wanted to share an easy inexpensive way to keep a hatchling especially temporary. We’ll be building in April or may, but s/he is much happier in a larger enclosure (we had him/her in a much smaller tote- but the lights were on top.)

Posted again as it was deleted because I accidentally made multiple posts, my apologies! Thanks!
View attachment 365001View attachment 365002View attachment 365003

It looks to me like you have understood the assignment, applied the necessary principals, and achieved the correct parameters and outcome. Well done! Our recommendations about equipment serve as a good starting point, but what really matters is that the correct temperatures and humidity are achieved. There are many ways to do that, and it looks like that way you are doing it is working.

Every enclosure is a custom job and requires lots of tweaking and adjustment to get it all just right, but you have created the correct warm humid conditions and met your baby tortoises needs here.

Is your 5.0 bulb a T8 or a T5 HO? If its a T8, it probably isn't doing much for UV, but if you use a calcium supplement with D3, you should be fine until the warmer weather returns and your tortoise can get outside for some real sunshine. I can understand why you went that way due to the mounting distance, and it is probably the right call for your enclosure.

 

[Tom]

… kindness goes a long way instead of telling someone the items they’re using is garbage and doing nothing but bashing… So, I greatly appreciate the feed back. I am absolutely all for learning, but when someone takes time, pride, and love and pours it into their enclosure only to be to roasted…

I can understand the frustration you describe, and we see it here frequently, but I think you've taken what was said a little too far. Don't misunderstand blunt suggestions for being roasted or insulted. I reread what Barb said carefully. Though her delivery was not sugar coated, everything she said was accurate and intended to be helpful. I didn't get the feel that any of it was intended to belittle your efforts, but instead intended to help you understand a few things you have not learned yet.

We see the same things here over and over, and our "jaded-ness" can sometimes come across the wrong way. Pet stores always sell people those double hoods, and they are not the best way to go. Pet stores also usually sell a spot bulb and a cfl with those hoods, both of which can be harmful to a baby tortoise. We try to warn people. YOU have switched out the wrong bulbs and using fixtures that you already had on hand, and that is completely fine.

We have seen failures with some of the off brand CHEs, so Barb was trying to warm you of that. She was also making you aware that any sort of ambient heat should be controlled by a thermostat, rather than just being on or off. A thermostat will make your life easier and create more consistent temperatures for your baby. A name brand CHE controlled by a thermostat will hold the correct temp better and be more reliable. Its clear you did not like her delivery of that information, but it is still good, sound, experience based advice, and it was intended to help you, not roast you or insult your equipment.

I think people do get treated with disrespect and disdain on some internet sites, and the internet in general can be a very harsh place, but here on TFO we are family friendly and we don't tolerate people being rude or unkind. Even the membership will rail against that sort of thing before the moderators even get involved. We are here to help tortoises and their keepers. We do that in a respectful way, though I am also guilty of being blunt and straight-to-the-point most of the time. Don't let bad experiences elsewhere color the good advice and help that you will get here. We want you to succeed as a tortoise keeper and we hope you enjoy many happy years with your tortoise.

 

[ryan57]

Hello!
As of UVB light - if it's Reptisun 5.0 it's too high. If it's 10.0 - then the height is fine.

As of temperature sensors: hot air gathering on top is exact the reason to keep them all down to the substrate We need to know if tortoise is comfortable. Measurements are very different between top and bottom both near the basking zone and in the colder area. I would place the sensors in the night hide, closer to the basking zone and somewhere in-between.

20 inches box is not very tall, in fact. I have an enclosure of about the same height and I know all the pain of selecting low-profile fixtures and heaters wattage. The main reason for using wide domes is to make larger basking area with temperature gradient on the border and same for the ambient heating. Giving the tortoise more choices for thermoregulation is the reason. If the basking spot is too narrow for tortoise to fit in and warm up, it's not a good thing.

Please, don't take wellington's words as an offence. While they might sound a bit harsh, it's more of "concentrated experience" than attacking newbies.

I'm surprised that people (when confronted with a tote that is not tall enough) don't think to just have two totes with the top one inverted and a larger adjustable stand for the lights rather than adjusting wattage only at a given distance.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

I'm surprised that people (when confronted with a tote that is not tall enough) don't think to just have two totes with the top one inverted and a larger adjustable stand for the lights rather than adjusting wattage only at a given distance.

Maybe because it'a a flimsy construction (can be fixed, of course).

And it's a kind of "out of the box" thinking. It takes months sometimes to realize simple and elegant solution. Especially when you already have something at hand.