Hi

2TortoisesInMyHouse

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I’m new to this whole tortoise owning thing. We have 2 tortoises named Bowser and Gamera. (They are technically my brother’s tortoise but I do all the thinking and studying). I have a Leopard Gecko that I’ve owned for 3 or 4 years now, so I know something about reptiles with spots 😂
I’d like to learn some new tips and ideas, like when to start building a outdoor habitat and tips on how to do so.
 

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Ink

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Welcome to the forum. The leopard tortoises are very cute. However they need to be separated. One can start bullying the other. Please feel free to ask questions and search the forum.
 

wellington

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Right now you should seperated them and get them into a closed chamber enclosure all of their own. They have pyramiding stated already which means they have been started dry.
80% humidity is needed.
Incandescent flood bulb for basking that reaches 95-100
Tube fluorescent for uvb
And ceramic heat emitter for night heat. Temps never below 80
When 10 inches around 3 years they can live outside but never together.
 

2TortoisesInMyHouse

New Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2024
Messages
5
Location (City and/or State)
Detroit, MI.
I’m new to this whole tortoise owning thing. We have 2 tortoises named Bowser and Gamera. (They are technically my brother’s tortoise but I do all the thinking and studying). I have a Leopard Gecko that I’ve owned for 3 or 4 years now, so I know something about reptiles with spots 😂
I’d like to learn some new tips and ideas, like when to start building an outdoor habitat and tips on how to do so.
I’m also wondering how to raise humidity in a large Leopard Tortoise enclosure
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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They are treating each other very well and we read that they need the company
They definitely need separating, what may look like friendly behaviour isn’t in the tortoise world, following one another, sleeping huddled up, all bullying behaviour. One can stunt the other.

Two separate closed chamber set ups would be best for these two🙂

Basking light should be an incandescent floodlight(example attached) on a 12 hour timer.

You may also wish to add ambient lighting on the same timer, providing shady areas with hides and safe plants.

Then CHE/CHE’s, always on a thermostat, for night heat. Set the thermostat 80, place the probe in their cooler end, plug the che into it and the thermostat into the mains, it’ll be plugged in 24/7 but will only turn on when the temperature drops.

Uv should be a t5 fluorescent tube, avoid the compact and coil uv bulbs, they don’t give out enough uv and can hurt the tortoises eyes. The uv can be on a 4 hour timer from noon. I’ve attached examples of the two brands to go for.

With lighting always avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour.

For substrates, either coco coir, dampened and packed down by hand as a base, with a layer of orchid(fir not pine) bark or forest floor on top, or just the orchid bark/forest floor. Never use anything with sand mixed in, no top soils and no kinds of moss.

You want to aim to have the bottom layer of substrate damp, to do this pour lukewarm water into the corners, not loads but enough to dampen the entire bottom layer. To stop that top layer getting a little too dry/dusty, mix the substrate now n then, which also helps boosting humidity. Check your monitors and substrate to do the pours as and when needed.

To maintain humidity you need a closed chamber set up, like wellington mentioned, this can be provided with a greenhouse topper, If you can’t find an exact fit for your base then place it over like the one with the white base in the photo, I’d put lining down under the base and cover though to stop condensate getting on your floor.
When making your base, just make sure the material is safe some use flower beds or just make their own, for these options I’d line with cheap pond liner, making sure the liner goes up the sides too and make sure those sides are deep enough.

Some people even hang their lighting from the greenhouse frame! Simply wrap the wire round so it’s at the height you need(check with temp gun/put thermostat in, 18-21 for uv) and secure with cable ties. I’ve also included examples of stands people make/buy.

For a water dish a shallow terracotta saucer is considered safest, they have grip in the event your tortoise flips themselves, most pet store options are a known hazard.

Ignore whatever else is in these enclosures in the photos, they’re just to give you an idea👍

I’d also always recommend getting your hands on a temp gun, they’re SO handy when setting up a new environment or for checking your monitors are correct🙂
 

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wellington

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They definitely need separating, what may look like friendly behaviour isn’t in the tortoise world, following one another, sleeping huddled up, all bullying behaviour. One can stunt the other.

Two separate closed chamber set ups would be best for these two🙂

Basking light should be an incandescent floodlight(example attached) on a 12 hour timer.

You may also wish to add ambient lighting on the same timer, providing shady areas with hides and safe plants.

Then CHE/CHE’s, always on a thermostat, for night heat. Set the thermostat 80, place the probe in their cooler end, plug the che into it and the thermostat into the mains, it’ll be plugged in 24/7 but will only turn on when the temperature drops.

Uv should be a t5 fluorescent tube, avoid the compact and coil uv bulbs, they don’t give out enough uv and can hurt the tortoises eyes. The uv can be on a 4 hour timer from noon. I’ve attached examples of the two brands to go for.

With lighting always avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour.

For substrates, either coco coir, dampened and packed down by hand as a base, with a layer of orchid(fir not pine) bark or forest floor on top, or just the orchid bark/forest floor. Never use anything with sand mixed in, no top soils and no kinds of moss.

You want to aim to have the bottom layer of substrate damp, to do this pour lukewarm water into the corners, not loads but enough to dampen the entire bottom layer. To stop that top layer getting a little too dry/dusty, mix the substrate now n then, which also helps boosting humidity. Check your monitors and substrate to do the pours as and when needed.

To maintain humidity you need a closed chamber set up, like wellington mentioned, this can be provided with a greenhouse topper, If you can’t find an exact fit for your base then place it over like the one with the white base in the photo, I’d put lining down under the base and cover though to stop condensate getting on your floor.
When making your base, just make sure the material is safe some use flower beds or just make their own, for these options I’d line with cheap pond liner, making sure the liner goes up the sides too and make sure those sides are deep enough.

Some people even hang their lighting from the greenhouse frame! Simply wrap the wire round so it’s at the height you need(check with temp gun/put thermostat in, 18-21 for uv) and secure with cable ties. I’ve also included examples of stands people make/buy.

For a water dish a shallow terracotta saucer is considered safest, they have grip in the event your tortoise flips themselves, most pet store options are a known hazard.

Ignore whatever else is in these enclosures in the photos, they’re just to give you an idea👍

I’d also always recommend getting your hands on a temp gun, they’re SO handy when setting up a new environment or for checking your monitors are correct🙂
It's okay with leopards for the top layers of substrate to be damp. They don't get shell rot like RF do.
 

TammyJ

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Welcome to the forum! Beautiful little tortoises. Make them happy and comfortable by separating them. Tortoises do not want or need or like each other, and if you continue to keep them together, they will show you one way or another why you shouldn't have.
 

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