I need help! (Hatchling not active)

[Allegro Scarlatti]

I have a Hermann tortoise hatchling that I got on Tuesday (it’s Thursday) from tortoise supply. I have sent them a picture of the enclosure and a detailed list of how I care for tortoises and they said I seem to be doing everything right. I got him after my first healthy and happy little guy flipped over in his water dish and drowned (it was the worst day of my life). After much encouragement from my friends and family I ordered another one, even though I’m still not over the first ones death. This tortoise is the complete opposite of my first one. He hasn’t eaten since I got him, he sleeps all the time, he sleeps with all his limbs out, he doesn’t burrow like my other little guy, when he is awake he moves very little, sometimes he looks like he’s throwing a fit and walks himself in circles with his head in his shell. He isn’t wheezing, he doesn’t have bubbles coming out of his nose, his eyes are clear.. I just don’t know what could be wrong. Is he sick?

 

[T Smart]

Very sorry about your previous tortoise. Low depth terra cotta dishes is a better alternative than "Pet Store" water dishes.

He sounds very funky. Sometimes it takes tortoises several days to adjust, especially for hatchlings. Do you mind posting a picture of your enclosure and tortoise? It helps in identifying issues.

Also:

-What are the temperatures? (Basking, Cool Side)
-What is his diet?

 

[Minority2]

1. What type of water dish did you use for your first tortoise?

2. How long has it been since the second tortoise arrived?

3. Resting with limps spread out is usually a sign of basking. What are your 4 temperature levels? Basking spot, warm side, cool side, overnight cool low?

4. What are the dimensions of the enclosure and are you using the same enclosure and substrate used by the last tortoise?

 

[Allegro Scarlatti]

Very sorry about your previous tortoise. Low depth terra cotta dishes is a better alternative than "Pet Store" water dishes.

He sounds very funky. Sometimes it takes tortoises several days to adjust, especially for hatchlings. Do you mind posting a picture of your enclosure and tortoise? It helps in identifying issues.

Also:

-What are the temperatures? (Basking, Cool Side)
-What is his diet?

The temperature is 95 degrees under his light and around 75 in the area furthest away from his light. At night time it gets between 65-70 degrees. I do not use a coil bulb (I’ve read on here those are bad.

This is a picture of the set up for my first tortoise, the water dish pictured is no longer there (for obvious reasons). I changed the substrate between torts but both have coco coir underneath the mulch (I forget what kind it is but I bought from tortoise supply and I trust them).


Right now I feed organic spring mix without the spinach, dandelion leaves, and zoomed grassland tortoise food. I’ve been putting everything out in hopes he will find interest in something. I sprinkle I tiny bit of calcium powder every other day over the greens. I live in Indiana so fresh greens are hard to come by this time of year.



This is the only picture I currently have of him. I know it’s probably not helpful but he’s under his hide right now and I don’t really want to disturb him.

 

[Allegro Scarlatti]

1. What type of water dish did you use for your first tortoise?

2. How long has it been since the second tortoise arrived?

3. Resting with limps spread out is usually a sign of basking. What are your 4 temperature levels? Basking spot, warm side, cool side, overnight cool low?

4. What are the dimensions of the enclosure and are you using the same enclosure and substrate used by the last tortoise?

I think I answered most of the questions asked in the other comment on here. It’s been two days since the second tortoise arrived.

 

[Minority2]

Coil bulbs are not only type of compact florescent bulb. These bent U-shaped bulbs are also not safe. You may know this already but I'm still going to put it up just in case:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B39QEDO/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

Clay or resin plant saucers make fantastic water dishes because they're shallow, uniform shaped, and most of all, heavy.

The current analog temperature reader is very inaccurate. Purchase a infrared temperature gun and a digital food/weather branded thermometer hygrometer reader with probe instead. They're affordable and much more reliable than the analog reader you currently have in your enclosure.

Young tortoise are often inactive for the majority of the day. They don't have the appetite level of an adult so they eat smaller meals and sleep much longer periods. In time, your tortoise will become acclimated and may be more active. This I cannot say for certain because the previous level of care set by the breeder is what really matters.

 

[Allegro Scarlatti]

Coil bulbs are not only type of compact florescent bulb. These bent U-shaped bulbs are also not safe. You may know this already but I'm still going to put it up just in case:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B39QEDO/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

Clay or resin plant saucers make fantastic water dishes because they're shallow, uniform shaped, and most of all, heavy.

The current analog temperature reader is very inaccurate. Purchase a infrared temperature gun and a digital food/weather branded thermometer hygrometer reader with probe instead. They're affordable and much more reliable than the analog reader you currently have in your enclosure.

Young tortoise are often inactive for the majority of the day. They don't have the appetite level of an adult so they eat smaller meals and sleep much longer periods. In time, your tortoise will become acclimated and may be more active. This I cannot say for certain because the previous level of care set by the breeder is what really matters.

I use one that looks like this
I also forgot to mention that I do have a thermometer/hydrometer with probes, I just bought it after the picture was taken. Is there a specific brand of thermometer you recommend? Also I have contacted the breeder with my concerns as well and this tortoise actually has acted like this for awhile, it was sent to be by accident. I will continue to care for it the best I can.

 

[Minority2]

I use one that looks like this View attachment 254612
I also forgot to mention that I do have a thermometer/hydrometer with probes, I just bought it after the picture was taken. Is there a specific brand of thermometer you recommend? Also I have contacted the breeder with my concerns as well and this tortoise actually has acted like this for awhile, it was sent to be by accident. I will continue to care for it the best I can.

Not specifically no. Most under a $100 digital thermometer and hygrometer readers will be sufficiently accurate. I just happen to prefer food and weather branded models because in my experience I found them to be of a better quality, price, and value over pet branded versions of most price points.

Ambient weather, thermoworks, and fireboard are pretty decent choices.

 

[wellington]

You need a heat source for night time. Your night temps are too cold. Get a Che or two. Get a reptile thermostat and attach the Che too it and set it to the proper temp. Most babies should not get lower then 80. Please read the caresheet. Humidity and heat won't stay stable in a open top enclosure. You also need to read temps closer too tort level.

 

[Allegro Scarlatti]

You need a heat source for night time. Your night temps are too cold. Get a Che or two. Get a reptile thermostat and attach the Che too it and set it to the proper temp. Most babies should not get lower then 80. Please read the caresheet. Humidity and heat won't stay stable in a open top enclosure. You also need to read temps closer too tort level.

So does the drop in night temps only apply to adult Hermanns? I read in multiple spots not to use night heat if your enclosure doesn’t drop below 65 because Hermanns need to have the “cool down” time. Also, the probes are at tort level, they just aren’t pictured in the picture because I bought it after the picture was taken? I read some heat emitters can have a negative effect on tortoises and they can start eating their substrate. Is this true for CHE? I also have a lid that covers half of the enclosure to help more with humidity. The breeder doesn’t use closed chamber so I decided not to as well.

 

[wellington]

The red bulbs will sometimes cause torts too eat the substrate, not the Che.
This below is copied right from the caresheet that HermanniChris wrote. He's the expert on hermanns on this forum. Pay attention too the last line.
(Ambient room temperature should hover around 80-85F during the day and can be allowed to drop into the low 70s at night. T. hermanni are capable of withstanding much cooler nighttime temperatures but if they are very young, it’s wise to not let it drop that low just yet.)