Indian Star Tortoise Enclosure (Lights set-up)

[sugarandspikes]

Hi everyone!

I have a 45Lx20Wx18H enclosure for my 4-month old Indian Star Tortoise (iSo small! Around 2 inches.) It's mainly a closed chamber enclosure, with two 9x15 vents at the top for some air. I have "lids" to close it.

May I ask how to set up the lights, which are inside the enclosure? I plan to place a ReptiSun T5 HO 34" 39W bulb at the top center of the back wall. For the ceiling, the basking socket will be at the far left, the CHE at the center, and an third socket at the right (spare UVB socket for when I don't have access to the fluorescent tube)? Is there any issue with this set-up? I'm a bit concerned because I read that there should be a hot zone and a cool zone. Should I perhaps put the spare socket right beside the basking socket so my tort can get both UVA and UVB at the same time? Or should I move the ReptiSun T5 HO more to the basking side?

Would love some input too as to how long I should keep the lights on as well as how to increase humidity.

Thank you so much!

 

[Tom]

Hi everyone!

I have a 45Lx20Wx18H enclosure for my 4-month old Indian Star Tortoise (iSo small! Around 2 inches.) It's mainly a closed chamber enclosure, with two 9x15 vents at the top for some air. I have "lids" to close it.

May I ask how to set up the lights? I plan to place a ReptiSun T5 HO 34" 39W bulb at the top center of the back wall. For the ceiling, the basking socket will be at the far left, the CHE at the center, and an third socket at the right (spare UVB socket for when I don't have access to the fluorescent tube)? Is there any issue with this set-up? I'm a bit concerned because I read that there should be a hot zone and a cool zone. Should I perhaps put the spare socket right beside the basking socket so my tort can get both UVA and UVB at the same time? Or should I move the ReptiSun T5 HO more to the basking side?

Would love some input too as to how long I should keep the lights on as well as how to increase humidity.

Thank you so much!

The UV tube should favor the basking side, and it is best to mount it on the ceiling, not the back wall. It only needs to be on for a few hours mid day. It should not be on all day every day. Don't be surprised if your tortoise hides from the UV when it is on. This is normal and nothing to worry about.

CHE in the middle should work great, but be sure to run it on a thermostat. Put the thermostat's probe over on the "cool" side away from the basking lamp and CHE and down low, but out of tortoise reach. You want those "coldest" corners to stay above the minimum set point.

I'd use the empty socket for a nice LED globe in the 5000-6500K color range. Any type of screw-in LED will work, but I like the dissipation of light offered by the larger globe types. This can be on the same timer as your basking bulb for 12-13 hours and this will keep it nice and bright during the day and when the UV tube is off.

Keep it HOT for an Indian star. I'd set the CHE thermostat to 84-85F, and its good if the basking bulb warms the whole enclosure into the low to mid 90s every day. Soak daily and keep the enclosure humid to prevent dehydration and pyramiding. The "dry" season over there typically features 60-80% humidity. The "wet" season is 80-100%. Try to keep your whole enclosure over 80% humidity all the time.

 

[sugarandspikes]

H

The UV tube should favor the basking side, and it is best to mount it on the ceiling, not the back wall. It only needs to be on for a few hours mid day. It should not be on all day every day. Don't be surprised if your tortoise hides from the UV when it is on. This is normal and nothing to worry about.

CHE in the middle should work great, but be sure to run it on a thermostat. Put the thermostat's probe over on the "cool" side away from the basking lamp and CHE and down low, but out of tortoise reach. You want those "coldest" corners to stay above the minimum set point.

I'd use the empty socket for a nice LED globe in the 5000-6500K color range. Any type of screw-in LED will work, but I like the dissipation of light offered by the larger globe types. This can be on the same timer as your basking bulb for 12-13 hours and this will keep it nice and bright during the day and when the UV tube is off.

Keep it HOT for an Indian star. I'd set the CHE thermostat to 84-85F, and its good if the basking bulb warms the whole enclosure into the low to mid 90s every day. Soak daily and keep the enclosure humid to prevent dehydration and pyramiding. The "dry" season over there typically features 60-80% humidity. The "wet" season is 80-100%. Try to keep your whole enclosure over 80% humidity all the time.

Hi Tom!! I have pored over your Sulcata, Leopard, and Star Tortoise guide so many times. Thank you!! Hehe.

Okay! Will adjust the bulb set-up based on your recommendations. Good idea on the LED globe!

Actually, I'm a bit worried since it's really hot in the Philippines. A temperature of 80F is already cold for us! So I'll have to keep turning the CHE on and off. Hehe.
I read somewhere that you avoid humidifiers, and suggested spraying the substate where the hides would be. I don't have to worry about shell rot for my tort, right? Do you have other suggestions on how to increase humidity?

 

[Tom]

H

Hi Tom!! I have pored over your Sulcata, Leopard, and Star Tortoise guide so many times. Thank you!! Hehe.

Okay! Will adjust the bulb set-up based on your recommendations. Good idea on the LED globe!

Actually, I'm a bit worried since it's really hot in the Philippines. A temperature of 80F is already cold for us! So I'll have to keep turning the CHE on and off. Hehe.
I read somewhere that you avoid humidifiers, and suggested spraying the substate where the hides would be. I don't have to worry about shell rot for my tort, right? Do you have other suggestions on how to increase humidity?

The thermostat will keep your CHE off all the time if the temperature is above the set point in the low 80s. You won't have to do anything.

I don't spray the substrate ever. Not needed. In a proper closed chamber either humidifiers nor spraying the substrate is needed. In some cases I will dampen the substrate under a humid hide with water, but even that isn't usually needed. Raise humidity by reducing ventilation. Open tops with the lights outside make this impossible. Closed tops, front opening doors, and the heating and lighting all contained inside make this super easy.

I have never seen a case of shell rot in a star tortoise. I suppose it must be possible, but it is very unlikely.