Is lewis still sick?
- Thread starter AshleeSparling
- Start date
Alex and the Redfoot
Well-Known Member
This could happen if you measure basking zone temperature. Heating elements emit some amount of infrared radiation (some more, some less) which passes through the air and heats solid objects around it.
You can take measurements on the floor where Lewis likes to rest and in the part of the enclosure far from heaters.
I've mentioned temperature gun here, that's exactly the case where this 20-bucks (or less) toy does wonders. In a minute you will know floor/walls temperatures in any area of the enclosure, temperatures of Lewis' shell from top and bottom and his limbs. And that would be pretty accurate readings.
AshleeSparling
Member
The thermometer on the floor of his enclosure is reading 91°
He's passing lots of these I soak him everyday for atleast half an hour, usually until he starts getting really restless. He didn't pass any yesterday but today he passed the larger ones. The smaller ones are from 4/5 days ago
Perhaps his issues are coming from a lack of hydration? What do u recommend to get him more hydrated aside from soaking
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Yikes... soaking is maybe 20% of being hydrated from what I observe. Keeping humidity and the shell moist is one thing but their internal organs need water.
These things drink... if you're not seeing them drink at least every other day and about 12-16oz of water at a time then it is too little. Stump will drink a 16oz bottle of water in his dish in one go. No stones. Urates are the consistency of an egg white with no grit.
Having stones as pictured above will also lead to the general lethargy from what I read.
These things drink... if you're not seeing them drink at least every other day and about 12-16oz of water at a time then it is too little. Stump will drink a 16oz bottle of water in his dish in one go. No stones. Urates are the consistency of an egg white with no grit.
Having stones as pictured above will also lead to the general lethargy from what I read.
AshleeSparling
Member
So what should I do? I never see him drink, I don't know how to encourage him to drink.
AshleeSparling
Member
I believe his wheeze may be related to the stones because they appeared about the same time. I'm going to try to take some of the che bulbs out and maintain the temperature just with less bulbs. Maybe that will help, perhaps he needs an xray when we see the vet instead of the Midog bacteria test?
Alex and the Redfoot
Well-Known Member
You can give him "useless" but rich in water foods like cucumbers and iceberg lettuce, in addition to his main dish. Spray water over the food bowl. Soak him twice a day or longer.
Another factor, contributing to urates and stones forming is excess protein intake (too much Mazuri or protein-rich plants like alfalfa). This can be addressed with feeding fiber-rich diet. If I remember right, Lewis diet was more or less correct (and Tom gave suggestions on improvement).
And the third factor is lack of exercise. I'm afraid we can't do much about it (maybe controlled walks outside on a sunny day).
I wasn't able to find many doable "tricks" to make tortoise drink.. There was a hint, that rain stimulates them to drink - maybe spraying water over his shell might encourage him to drink from the bowl and then he can form a habit...
Alex and the Redfoot
Well-Known Member
Sometimes stones can cause nasal discharge and lethargy. Haven't seen mention of wheezing, though.
If you want to raise humidity in the box - cover one of the meshed windows on the ceiling. And maybe put some aluminium foil around lamps on the second windows. You will keep hot and humid air inside and thermostats would run CHEs less frequently.
Yes, X-Ray is really necessary to be sure that there are no large stones which need surgery. Mycoplasma test can wait a bit (however, bladder stones don't exclude mycoplasms and they could have formed later).
AshleeSparling
Member
Lexis is currently eating a diet of mostly orchard grass mixed with probably 10% collard greens, turnip greens, and kale.
I plan to try soaking him more than once a day, I work during the time he is awake though and it makes it hard to work with his sleep schedule. Is it ok to wake him up?
I believe it is to hot, 100° at the floor always. All of his issues appeared when we moved houses and he got a new box, but I also know he wasn't being cared for properly during the 2 months I was away from him immediately before we moved
I plan to try soaking him more than once a day, I work during the time he is awake though and it makes it hard to work with his sleep schedule. Is it ok to wake him up?
I believe it is to hot, 100° at the floor always. All of his issues appeared when we moved houses and he got a new box, but I also know he wasn't being cared for properly during the 2 months I was away from him immediately before we moved
Alex and the Redfoot
Well-Known Member
1. His diet is probably good enough (I'm not a sulcata owner and can't tell for sure). I would only rotate "amendment greens" for variety.
2. If he had no problems with urates I would say to leave him alone. But he needs to be well hydrated, so yes, wake him up. Try the trick with showering or spraying him in front of a water bowl, who knows, maybe reflex will make him drink.
3. If the whole floor is 100F - it's too hot. Removing some CHEs may not help (thermostat would keep them on constantly and they will warm up to their highest operating temperatures). You have two complementary options: reduce heat loss in the box with insulation and covering holes (to shorten heaters run time) and to spread heat evenly across the box (spreading out CHEs, using radiant heatpanels or oil radiator).
2. If he had no problems with urates I would say to leave him alone. But he needs to be well hydrated, so yes, wake him up. Try the trick with showering or spraying him in front of a water bowl, who knows, maybe reflex will make him drink.
3. If the whole floor is 100F - it's too hot. Removing some CHEs may not help (thermostat would keep them on constantly and they will warm up to their highest operating temperatures). You have two complementary options: reduce heat loss in the box with insulation and covering holes (to shorten heaters run time) and to spread heat evenly across the box (spreading out CHEs, using radiant heatpanels or oil radiator).
AshleeSparling
Member
Lewis is better. His urates have become a soft paste, he's energetic again and definitely feels better. Here he is, soaking
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Alex and the Redfoot
Well-Known Member
Thank you posting the update. I'm happy to know he's getting better! I'm sure, he dreams of the days, when he is allowed to graze outside
AshleeSparling
Member
SoonThank you posting the update. I'm happy to know he's getting better! I'm sure, he dreams of the days, when he is allowed to graze outside
We've moved since the last time it was warm enough for him to go out, he's new territory to explore
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Awesome. My parents live at the end of Water Street in Shinglehouse PA. My Stumpy has spent much time up there munching on the grass. I see you're in Olean.
AshleeSparling
Member
Yes, I used to live closer to shinglehouse in eldred. He had lots of good times there
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