Is my baby sulcata enclosure okay?

[TechnoCheese]

So, I just got out of fith grade, and before that I had been Very interested in sulcatas, so my parents told me that if I got commended (90 or above) on all my STAAR tests (it's what the huge test that teachers prepare you for all year is called in Texas, and there are three of them, math, science and reading) that I would be able to get one. I have done SO much research for the past year, and I based my enclosure on all my research.







Have I done it right? It's a 40 gallon tank, and its substrate is a mixture of zoo med's Eco earth and forest floor substrate with zoo med's terrarium moss and two bags excavator clay (at the right side). Im also trying to grow some dandelions in the enclosure. I'm going to try and keep the enclosure between 70 and 90 humidity, because young tortoises like a higher humidity. There is also some moss in the little hiding thingymabober for that reason. I haven't gotten the tortoise yet, but I'm getting it soon. Please tell me if there is any thing I need to change.

 

[Yvonne G]

Hi, and welcome to the Forum!

Is it covered? Also, I'd trade out those dishes and use plant saucers instead. The sloped sides on the plant saucers are easier for babies to navigate. Also, that round thermometer is telling you the approximate temperature about halfway up the enclosure. You want to know what the temp is at tortoise level.

 

[Gillian M]

A very warm welcome to the forum!

 

[TechnoCheese]

Hi, and welcome to the Forum!

Is it covered? Also, I'd trade out those dishes and use plant saucers instead. The sloped sides on the plant saucers are easier for babies to navigate. Also, that round thermometer is telling you the approximate temperature about halfway up the enclosure. You want to know what the temp is at tortoise level.

Yes, it's covered, and I have a basking light with a fluorescent light too. Thanks for the info! I'll make those changes as soon as I can.

 

[Jodie]

Looks pretty good. The disk thermometer you are using is not very accurate. Lowe's or home depot carry much better digital thermometers. Get one that reads humidity as well. Where are you getting your Sulcata? It is very important to know how it was started. One started dry, will probably fail to grow, and die. There are breeders here on TFO. Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your excellent test scores.

 

[TechnoCheese]

Looks pretty good. The disk thermometer you are using is not very accurate. Lowe's or home depot carry much better digital thermometers. Get one that reads humidity as well. Where are you getting your Sulcata? It is very important to know how it was started. One started dry, will probably fail to grow, and die. There are breeders here on TFO. Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your excellent test scores.

Thank you so much! I'm getting my tort from Dfw reptarium, and they take GREAT care of their reptiles. I'll probably go to Home Depot soon to get the thermometer.thanks!

 

[Tom]

Hello, welcome and congrats on the great test scores!

What sort of lights are you using up above? I see red. That's not good. No colored bulbs.

What are you using for night heat?

UV? What type of florescent bulb did you get?

Some people can use moss, but some tortoises eat it. Mine all try to eat it, so I don't use it.

It sound like you have a high opinion of the Reptarium, but find out how they start their babies. Do they hatch them themselves or do they buy them from a breeder? How are the babies started? Soaked daily or once a week? Kept on rabbit pellets or something damp? Even if the Reptarium does it right, the baby could die weeks or months from now if the breeder did it wrong for two or three weeks before the Reptarium got the babies. Having one die, after hundreds of dollars in vet bills, and after you've done everything right is truly heartbreaking, so make sure you get a baby that was started correctly from the day it hatched. Few breeders start them correctly. You might be better off getting one directly from a breeder that starts them right. Read this: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/hatchling-failure-syndrome.23493/

The problem with doing lots of research is that most of what is out there is wrong. You could have spent months reading all the old, out-dated, incorrect info, and completely missed the 5 minutes of reading the right stuff. Here is the right stuff:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.79895/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/

If you gt a healthy baby and raise it right, that 40 gallon tank isn't going to last more than a couple of months. Start thinking bigger, much bigger ASAP. I like to use 4x8' closed chamber style enclosures for indoors, and this will last them until they are big enough to live outside with a heated night box full time.

 

[sibi]

Yes, it's covered, and I have a basking light with a fluorescent light too. Thanks for the info! I'll make those changes as soon as I can.

Is the florescent light a full spectrum? If you're getting a baby sulcata, he'll need UV rays from the lighting. However, if the baby gets to spend 2-3 hours of natural sunlight, you won't need the UV lighting, at least while he's exposed to natural sunlight daily.

I have a Reptisun 10.0 UVB florescent for my water turtle. Or, you can buy a mercury vapor bulb (a bit expensive) that will not only provide UVB, but heat as well. 100 watts is fine, but as with any enclosure, you should get a temp gun at HomeDepot to measure the temps within the enclosure. You wouldn't want to overheat or under heat your baby.

 

[TechnoCheese]

Is the florescent light a full spectrum? If you're getting a baby sulcata, he'll need UV rays from the lighting. However, if the baby gets to spend 2-3 hours of natural sunlight, you won't need the UV lighting, at least while he's exposed to natural sunlight daily.

I have a Reptisun 10.0 UVB florescent for my water turtle. Or, you can buy a mercury vapor bulb (a bit expensive) that will not only provide UVB, but heat as well. 100 watts is fine, but as with any enclosure, you should get a temp gun at HomeDepot to measure the temps within the enclosure. You wouldn't want to overheat or under heat your baby.

Hi! Sorry I didn't post this earlier, but I had to go to school :/ My light does have uv rays, and there are two reasons I have it. The main reason is that I actually got my tank, some substrate, heat lamp, uv light, some food, etc. from the zoomed tortoise kit, so I got it with the kit. The other reason is the fact that where I live has vultures, Hawks, Ravens, snakes, skunks and raccoons, sooo yea... But I will still try to take him/her out whenever I can!!! =) I'm also gonna get my dad to drive me to Home Depot soon to get me a plant saucer, a temp gun, and maybe some flower Pots so I can grow some food. Thanks for the help!

 

[TechnoCheese]

Hello, welcome and congrats on the great test scores!

What sort of lights are you using up above? I see red. That's not good. No colored bulbs.

What are you using for night heat?

UV? What type of florescent bulb did you get?

Some people can use moss, but some tortoises eat it. Mine all try to eat it, so I don't use it.

It sound like you have a high opinion of the Reptarium, but find out how they start their babies. Do they hatch them themselves or do they buy them from a breeder? How are the babies started? Soaked daily or once a week? Kept on rabbit pellets or something damp? Even if the Reptarium does it right, the baby could die weeks or months from now if the breeder did it wrong for two or three weeks before the Reptarium got the babies. Having one die, after hundreds of dollars in vet bills, and after you've done everything right is truly heartbreaking, so make sure you get a baby that was started correctly from the day it hatched. Few breeders start them correctly. You might be better off getting one directly from a breeder that starts them right. Read this: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/hatchling-failure-syndrome.23493/

The problem with doing lots of research is that most of what is out there is wrong. You could have spent months reading all the old, out-dated, incorrect info, and completely missed the 5 minutes of reading the right stuff. Here is the right stuff:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.79895/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/

If you gt a healthy baby and raise it right, that 40 gallon tank isn't going to last more than a couple of months. Start thinking bigger, much bigger ASAP. I like to use 4x8' closed chamber style enclosures for indoors, and this will last them until they are big enough to live outside with a heated night box full time.

Hi! Sorry I didn't post this earlier, but I had school =\ The red light is the zoomed nocturnal infrared heat lamp (75 watt)

The fluorescent bulb is the zoomed reptisun 10.0 uvb

Could I tape a sponge to the ceiling of the hide instead of the moss?

I just got off the phone with the reptairium, and they said, and I quote "OF COURSE we started them humid!!! Only an IDIOT would start them dry!!!!" So, um yea...

I'm prepared to build it a new enclosure, but I just need it to be indoors until it's big enough to not get eaten, because we have voultures, Hawks, skunks, etc.

I'm also going to buy an infrared temp gun thing, and a plant saucer (is that what it's called?) for the water bowl.

When I get my tortoise, I'm probably going to make daily posts about it, just because I'm so addicted to this app/web sight! I mean, it's like Facebook and Instagram (which I had and never used) only way better, and helpful!

 

[sibi]

Hi! Sorry I didn't post this earlier, but I had to go to school :/ My light does have uv rays, and there are two reasons I have it. The main reason is that I actually got my tank, some substrate, heat lamp, uv light, some food, etc. from the zoomed tortoise kit, so I got it with the kit. The other reason is the fact that where I live has vultures, Hawks, Ravens, snakes, skunks and raccoons, sooo yea... But I will still try to take him/her out whenever I can!!! =) I'm also gonna get my dad to drive me to Home Depot soon to get me a plant saucer, a temp gun, and maybe some flower Pots so I can grow some food. Thanks for the help!

The kind of UV lighting that comes with the tank is a coil type light, right? If so, you shouldn't use it bc it can blind your new baby's eyes. There's been tons of reports here on the forum that complained about that bulb and the general advise is NOT to use it. It's not worth the risk to your baby. Please check and to see if you have that bulb; then, if you do, throw it away and get a mercury vapor bulb (MVB). 100 watts is good enough.

If you have an acceptable UV bulb, that's great. Don't forget to get a heat lamp that doesn't have light. It's called a ceramic heat emitter (CHE). You'll need to get that because your baby can't sleep well or at all with lights on.

 

[TechnoCheese]

The kind of UV lighting that comes with the tank is a coil type light, right? If so, you shouldn't use it bc it can blind your new baby's eyes. There's been tons of reports here on the forum that complained about that bulb and the general advise is NOT to use it. It's not worth the risk to your baby. Please check and to see if you have that bulb; then, if you do, throw it away and get a mercury vapor bulb (MVB). 100 watts is good enough.

If you have an acceptable UV bulb, that's great. Don't forget to get a heat lamp that doesn't have light. It's called a ceramic heat emitter (CHE). You'll need to get that because your baby can't sleep well or at all with lights on.

Sorry I didn't post what exact light it was, I wasn't home. It's the zoo med reptisun 10.0, (75 watts) not a coil. Here's a pic

 

[AsaGarcia03]

Yes that's it

 

[AsaGarcia03]

He will be a happy sully I'm in 6th grade and its a lot of work you need to be prepared.

 

[sibi]

Sorry I didn't post what exact light it was, I wasn't home. It's the zoo med reptisun 10.0, (75 watts) not a coil. Here's a pic

View attachment 165815

That's good, only it won't heat the enclosure enough. I also see you're using a colored bulb (for heat?). I wouldn't use it. So, what I see you still need is 1. heat light (can be a 100 watt bulb), 2. a CHE bulb (that probably didn't come with the tank kit), also 100 watts.

 

[Tom]

Hi! Sorry I didn't post this earlier, but I had school =\ The red light is the zoomed nocturnal infrared heat lamp (75 watt)

The fluorescent bulb is the zoomed reptisun 10.0 uvb

Could I tape a sponge to the ceiling of the hide instead of the moss?

I just got off the phone with the reptairium, and they said, and I quote "OF COURSE we started them humid!!! Only an IDIOT would start them dry!!!!" So, um yea...

I'm prepared to build it a new enclosure, but I just need it to be indoors until it's big enough to not get eaten, because we have voultures, Hawks, skunks, etc.

I'm also going to buy an infrared temp gun thing, and a plant saucer (is that what it's called?) for the water bowl.

When I get my tortoise, I'm probably going to make daily posts about it, just because I'm so addicted to this app/web sight! I mean, it's like Facebook and Instagram (which I had and never used) only way better, and helpful!

Okay here's my list:
1. No colored bulb day or night.
2. Your florescent tube is good to go. It ail work, but it will need to be about 10-12 inches from the tortoise.
3. No need for a sponge in the hide and tape won't hold it. Just keep the substrate more damp under your humid hide.
4. Does the Reptarium breed their own, or buy them from someone else?
5. Temp gun and terra cotta plant saucer will work great. I'd get a second saucer for food too. And sink them into the substrate.
6. Here is all the care info:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.79895/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/

 

[TechnoCheese]

Okay here's my list:
1. No colored bulb day or night.
2. Your florescent tube is good to go. It ail work, but it will need to be about 10-12 inches from the tortoise.
3. No need for a sponge in the hide and tape won't hold it. Just keep the substrate more damp under your humid hide.
4. Does the Reptarium breed their own, or buy them from someone else?
5. Temp gun and terra cotta plant saucer will work great. I'd get a second saucer for food too. And sink them into the substrate.
6. Here is all the care info:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.79895/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/

They breed them theirselves thanks! I'll post an update picture soon

 

[TechnoCheese]

Around how much are CHE bulbs?

 

[Tom]

Around how much are CHE bulbs?

Do an internet search. I use Amazon sometimes.

Here is one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F9CV7K/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

 

[TechnoCheese]

Thanks!