Im working on building a large indoor enclosure out of plywood and glass for my savannah monitor. The front will be glass and the top will be a screen. Its going to be 48" x 18" x 24". The only problem is that I dont have any idea what im going to do for lighting and heating. If anyone has any experience in this area please let me know.
Large lizard enclosure heating
- Thread starter yarok
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Not sure what you are having problems with? The same lighting/heating as used indoors. If your thinking rain being a problem. Put a box roof under part of the screened top to place lights/heat under. Box, so it has sides to keep rain from blowing in on the bulbs. Does that help or am I totally missing what you are trying to figure out
wellington said:Not sure what you are having problems with? The same lighting/heating as used indoors. If your thinking rain being a problem. Put a box roof under part of the screened top to place lights/heat under. Box, so it has sides to keep rain from blowing in on the bulbs. Does that help or am I totally missing what you are trying to figure out
Well if you notice I wrote large "indoor enclosure"...
I am used to a 100w UVB bulb for a 20 gallon tank. So this kind of enclosure is a bit of an upgrade for me.
These about the same dimensions I use for my bluetongues. The only difference is height (24 vs 18). I use a 100 to 150 watt CHE with thermastat for heat along with a 75 to 100 watt flood light in basking area. I also have a 20" florescent for UVB. Heat cables may also help though I've never used them.
LOL...I was confused at Wellington's post as well! I'm thinking "He did write 'indoors,' didn't he?"
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Personally, I would consider building even larger if you can afford the space. Savannahs grow fast, it will save you work in the long run rebuilding a new enclosure once he outgrows this (which is hardly larger than a 75-gallon tank, according to your dimensions). These lizards will get over 3 ft in length, so in this new enclosure, he'll be able to walk 2 paces, turn around and walk back. Not really a lot of room if you think about it.
I would also seriously consider making the top solid, with only a few SMALL (screened) vents for ventilation. Why? Same issues that arise for tortoises: retaining humidity and heat. An open screen top will make it 10x more difficult to keep the ideal humidity, and you'll be using a high-wattage basking bulb to maintain proper temps (160-watt or more!). With a closed top, humidity will be easier, and you can get away with a much-smaller wattage bulb to heat it, perhaps the very one you are using now, although you may want to add two later on. One basking light will not cut it for an adult savannah monitor, because one isolated heat spot will burn the lizard. It is suggested to use 2-3 lower-wattage lights in a row so the animal can stretch out, and its entire body length can get warm...not just one part, you know? So bottom line: when constructing the enclosure, make sure to install at least TWO sockets for basking lights. Easier to do it now, rather then later.
Again, I would refer to Wayne's DIY site for some ideas when he built his cage for the late Chomper: http://www.chompersite.com/cage.htm
BTW, that cage was 8 feet long.
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Personally, I would consider building even larger if you can afford the space. Savannahs grow fast, it will save you work in the long run rebuilding a new enclosure once he outgrows this (which is hardly larger than a 75-gallon tank, according to your dimensions). These lizards will get over 3 ft in length, so in this new enclosure, he'll be able to walk 2 paces, turn around and walk back. Not really a lot of room if you think about it.
I would also seriously consider making the top solid, with only a few SMALL (screened) vents for ventilation. Why? Same issues that arise for tortoises: retaining humidity and heat. An open screen top will make it 10x more difficult to keep the ideal humidity, and you'll be using a high-wattage basking bulb to maintain proper temps (160-watt or more!). With a closed top, humidity will be easier, and you can get away with a much-smaller wattage bulb to heat it, perhaps the very one you are using now, although you may want to add two later on. One basking light will not cut it for an adult savannah monitor, because one isolated heat spot will burn the lizard. It is suggested to use 2-3 lower-wattage lights in a row so the animal can stretch out, and its entire body length can get warm...not just one part, you know? So bottom line: when constructing the enclosure, make sure to install at least TWO sockets for basking lights. Easier to do it now, rather then later.
Again, I would refer to Wayne's DIY site for some ideas when he built his cage for the late Chomper: http://www.chompersite.com/cage.htm
BTW, that cage was 8 feet long.
I agree with Larry and the Student. I usually use a closed enclosure with small screened holes on top for the heat lamps and CHE's. Heat lamps on a timer, CHEs on a thermostat. I also want to emphasize that if you are building from scratch, you may as well go much bigger to save your self from having to do it again in a few months. The cage depicted here was originally built for a water monitor and later used for a savannah, before becoming a leopard tortoise home.
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-Closed-Chambers#axzz1qc1jTByt
... and we still love you Barb.
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-Closed-Chambers#axzz1qc1jTByt
... and we still love you Barb.
StudentoftheReptile said:
I dont know how to build a cage like that and I dont have room for an 8ft cage right now. I am also trying to build a cage that is cost effective. I recently took apart an old 90 gallon aquarium and I have the glass which is 4 ft long. So I figured my cage would be 4 ft long and I could use the glass for the front of the cage. I was going to use a screen cover because I am going to need access to the inside of the cage. and this allows me to put my fixtures on top. I have searched for blueprints and ideas to custom build my own cage but I cant find any. That was the best I could come up with. I dont have any experience building cages and i dont want to start a fire by placing fixtures in the wrong places. If you know of a website that doesnt just show me other peoples enclosures but also gives detailed instructions on how to build them than that would be extremely helpful. Thank you.
yarok said:
Just curious....exactly how much room (specifically, floor space length x width) DO you have available to devote?
All very understandable criteria. I'm rather in the same boat myself: I have very little DIY/carpentry experience, and I want to be as economical as possible.
However, the health of my animals is still paramount, and I don't want to shortchange them just because I want to stick to what's easier for me. I'm getting ready to construct a wooden, closed-top for my 130-gallon tank that houses my juvie sulcata. Leaving the aquarium completely open on the top makes it impossible for me provide proper humidity indoors for the little guy. Below is a photo of the (nearly) current set-up. As many have stated, this type of set-up simply does not work well for baby tortoises or monitors.
I don't have any detailed plan (other than a rough doodle sketched out on an index card), but the basic premise is a lid with a center beam. On that center beam, I will attach a hinged door on either side. I'll probably cut each door in half, which will ultimately result in four doors total that flip up (two on each side). On one door, I will drill a hole large enough to install a ceramic light socket, like this: http://best-b2b.com/userimg/867/874-1/porcelain-lamp-holder-805.jpg
Think of the lid on a toy chest. That is basically the principle I'm going for. With FOUR lids, I can still access the inside of the enclosure easily. This really is not difficult to do: just a matter of accurate measuring, cutting, screwing the frame-work in place, and attaching the hinges. Yes, a little bit of work, but I think it will be worth it in the end. I will DEFINITELY be posting a progress thread when I start this little project to help others like yourself.
If you're concerned about the lighting thing, ask your dad or an uncle, etc. for a little assistance. It's not terribly difficult work, nor does it require an expert electrician or zookeeper. Just someone who installed a light fixture or two in their lifetime. Just explain to them what you need (how much wattage the fixture needs to hold), and I'm sure you can find someone to help you with that part of it.
yarok said:
I googled "DIY iguana cage" "DIY monitor cage" etc...if you haven't already, use the following search terms: DIY custom caging iguana monitor lizard enclosure do-it-yourself build-it-yourself
I know you have a monitor, not an iguana, but looking at some custom iguana cages may give you some ideas.
Here's a few I came across during a first search:
http://www.ehow.com/how_4449708_build-own-reptile-cage.html
http://www.reptileranger.com/universalcage.htm
Clay Davenport of ARB Reptiles has a TON of experience building cages. Here's his 101 site: http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/tips.shtml
Here's some of his more common ones with step-by-step guidelines: http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/cages.shtml
Note: None of those have screened tops!
SORRY, I did read it wrong. I thought it said outdoor. You would have bigger problems then heat and lighting if you had rain in it . Thats what I get for getting up to early
Thanks Tom, I new you'd understand
. Thats what I get for getting up to earlyTom said:I agree with Larry and the Student. I usually use a closed enclosure with small screened holes on top for the heat lamps and CHE's. Heat lamps on a timer, CHEs on a thermostat. I also want to emphasize that if you are building from scratch, you may as well go much bigger to save your self from having to do it again in a few months. The cage depicted here was originally built for a water monitor and later used for a savannah, before becoming a leopard tortoise home.
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-Closed-Chambers#axzz1qc1jTByt
... and we still love you Barb.
Thanks Tom, I new you'd understand
Just finished waterproofing my new plywood enclosure, using Thomsons water sealant (hope this stuff works). I am thinking about installing some plastic or some kind of extra coating on the bottom few inches where the substrate will sit. It is 48 x 24 x 24. I will be installing the plexiglass doors as soon as the track comes in the mail (I found it online for 8 bucks). I do however need ideas for ventilation and heating/lighting. Advice would be much appreciated. Thanks guys.
I just bought my porcelain lamp holder for my cage, and I need to find out a couple things about the wiring. Once I do, I'll pass along what I know to you.
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StudentoftheReptile said:
Did you watch that wiring video I posted for you yet??
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To answer your original question, I have 2 50 watt floodlights, a spiral grow light, a 26 watt florescent flood light and a 40 watt florescent tube 10.0 UV light in that big cage and it averages 85-90 degrees in there.
It don't take much to heat a large enclosure if you seal it up good.
A screen top of any kind will just let the heat rise up and exit the box, and take your critical humidity with it.
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I only wish I had taken pictures of Chomper in his old enclosure, That poor lizard hardly had any space to turn around in it.
I know you are cramped for space yarok, but imagine if we asked you to live in a closet?
If you look close, this adult Sav (Chomper) takes up a third of this 8 foot box in this picture.
My sav is a tiny hatchling. A 4 ft by 2 ft enclosure for right now is more than adequate. When the time comes and he needs a bigger enclosure then I will gladly build him one. This enclosure is an experiment. I have never built one before. If this one goes well than im sure I will be building many more.
Do you have cages around your fixtures to protect your pets from getting burns? would you be able to post a pic of your lighting setup?
Itort said:
Do you have cages around your fixtures to protect your pets from getting burns? would you be able to post a pic of your lighting setup?
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yarok said:
That's some good thinking.
Please just listen to this one last statement, and I promise to leave you alone..
I did the same thing once, and procrastination took over (It's a human trait we all posses) and the new cage was too late coming.
Don't let that happen to you.
I still kick myself over losing Chomper.
yarok said:
Like it says in my web site use a few lower wattage bulbs, 45-50 watt bulbs will not burn your lizard.
Bigger bulbs not only burn the animal, but dry out the air in the cage.
Infernalis said:
A Few lower wattage bulbs in a row for basking and what about for uvb? I dont need a cage around the light bulbs? do i need 3 separate fixtures or do you know of a fixture i can buy?
New thread with pics of my enclosure progress...
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-Building-My-1st-Enclosure-Pics
You don't need a cage around your light bulbs if they are resting on a screen top. If you are putting them inside a closed chamber, then you will need to keep him away from the bulb and the whole fixture too. Nothing works better for artificial UV than a MVB. I don't trust any fluorescent as a sole source of UV and frankly I have seen many monitors raised with no UV ever, and they were fine. Some say they get D3 from their food items. I don't know, but personally mine always got lots of sunshine several times a week.
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I posted a fairly detailed answer here....
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-Building-My-1st-Enclosure-Pics?pid=432596#pid432596
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-Building-My-1st-Enclosure-Pics?pid=432596#pid432596
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