My future set up

[Cactus jack1]

So, I'm hoping to get a horsfield tortoise in 2-3 months. My aim is to outlive him, but for conditions to be fair I have to provide him with the most:

I will build my table as large as I can, obviously bigger is better. Although I was unsure about the use of stairs/raised platforms/levels and if they are beneficial for happiness?
Substrate would be a mix of coco coir and coconut chips and other bark, but also an area of cypress mulch. Ceramic heat lamp pulse stat. 10% UVB lighting. Standard house bulbs if more light is needed. Full of thermoms and hydrogmeters. Some sphagnum moss dotted about near basking area. What's an ideal basking area ?
Food will consist of standard salad and leaves fruit etc but was keen on planting some within the enclosure? Ideas appreciated?
Cuttlefish around. I want him to search for food mostly so I will hide it but 2-3 times a week I will plate it on slate to make sure he is actually eating. Large enough water bowl.

Ideas on levels and floors is appreciated I have seen turtle docks prehaps also am struggling with a how-to-build hide aspects. Another question is what does a fluorescent lighting controller do? Will turn uvb off at night anyway? Ceramic lamp will be dropped at night 100-150W. What makes good decorations? And how else can I make him the happiest, healthiest, pamperedand oldest lil guy on this forum

 

[wellington]

Unless your very young, your goal should be the tort outlive you.
A florescent tube can give light and uvb. A controller/timer can turn it on and off. If you don't use that then a mvb gives uvb, light and heat this can only be controlled by a timer as it can not be used on a dimmer or thermostat. Do not use the coil type bulbs. The Che should be used with a thermostat. A 4x8 foot is a proper size for an adult. Second levels with ramps help for those that are confined to little space to do a 4x8. The humidity for an adult should be 30-50%, hatchling 80%. Basking 95-100 I like that to be at an end and a Che towards the other end.
Do not feed fruit it's base for them.
The moss placed by basking, wet it. It will help with humidity and you can also give a warm humid hide.
Check here for food ideas https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/

 

[Cactus jack1]

Unless your very young, your goal should be the tort outlive you.
A florescent tube can give light and uvb. A controller/timer can turn it on and off. If you don't use that then a mvb gives uvb, light and heat this can only be controlled by a timer as it can not be used on a dimmer or thermostat. Do not use the coil type bulbs. The Che should be used with a thermostat. A 4x8 foot is a proper size for an adult. Second levels with ramps help for those that are confined to little space to do a 4x8. The humidity for an adult should be 30-50%, hatchling 80%. Basking 95-100 I like that to be at an end and a Che towards the other end.
Do not feed fruit it's base for them.
The moss placed by basking, wet it. It will help with humidity and you can also give a warm humid hide.
Check here for food ideas https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/

Great link thank you. 19 soon, getting him at about 2 years. Florescent controller not really necessary if I'm able to turn it on/off myself? Was thinking ramps for exercise as well as space.

 

[Yvonne G]

Lots of folks in the UK have a mediterranean tortoise (which a Russian is) in their gardens in the UK. I think that should be your goal - getting the tortoise set up outside. @JoesMum had a Greek tortoise living outside in the UK for over 40 years. Tortoises do much better outside. If you want to make him the happiest, healthiest, pampered and oldest guy on the Forum, think about setting him up outside in a safe and secure enclosure/yard/garden.

 

[Tom]

So, I'm hoping to get a horsfield tortoise in 2-3 months. My aim is to outlive him, but for conditions to be fair I have to provide him with the most:

I will build my table as large as I can, obviously bigger is better. Although I was unsure about the use of stairs/raised platforms/levels and if they are beneficial for happiness?
Substrate would be a mix of coco coir and coconut chips and other bark, but also an area of cypress mulch. Ceramic heat lamp pulse stat. 10% UVB lighting. Standard house bulbs if more light is needed. Full of thermoms and hydrogmeters. Some sphagnum moss dotted about near basking area. What's an ideal basking area ?
Food will consist of standard salad and leaves fruit etc but was keen on planting some within the enclosure? Ideas appreciated?
Cuttlefish around. I want him to search for food mostly so I will hide it but 2-3 times a week I will plate it on slate to make sure he is actually eating. Large enough water bowl.

Ideas on levels and floors is appreciated I have seen turtle docks prehaps also am struggling with a how-to-build hide aspects. Another question is what does a fluorescent lighting controller do? Will turn uvb off at night anyway? Ceramic lamp will be dropped at night 100-150W. What makes good decorations? And how else can I make him the happiest, healthiest, pamperedand oldest lil guy on this forum

Hello and welcome.

Platforms and stairs are not necessary, but if you build them the tortoise will likely use them. Just make sure they are escape and fall proof.

I don't know why you'd want to mix all those different substrates, but it won't hurt anything. You can pick one and just go with that.

You probably don't need the CHE and thermostat. The basking bulb should warn things up during the day and they need it cooler at night. What is the ambient room temp?

I wouldn't use the moss. Most tortoises will try to eat it and it can cause impaction.

Basking ares under an incandescent bulb needs to be around 37C. I use 65 watt flood bulbs set on a timer and I adjust the height to get the correct temp under them.

I don't know what a florescent lighting controller is. A florescent tube is either on or off. It should be on during the day and off at night. Are you talking about a timer?

Give these a read through:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

 

[JoesMum]

Hi there.

We had Joe for over 40 years in the UK and it was a tumour that took him. We honestly thought he would oitlive us.

Unlike in the USA where wild caught Russians are the norm, in the UK tortoises bought will be captive bred babies. You will only get a mature specimen through a rescue.

Babies are best started using Tom's method. It really does work. You won't get the youngster outside until it is a few years old.

Do read the Beginner Mistakes and Russian Tortoise Care Sheets thoroughly.

I also suggest you read this one on Care of Young Russians (aka Horsfield)as it describes the ideal setup for very young torts so well
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/b...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/

When the time comes for outdoors you will need high levels of security. Russians love to climb and too many of them escape! My outdoor care for torts in the UK thread will then be relevant
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/outdoor-accommodation-in-a-colder-uk-climate.140866/

 

[Markw84]

In Europe you see remote ballasted fluorescent much more, especially for aquariums and terrariums. A remote ballast is normally called a fluorescent controller. The controller has wires from it to cups that attach to the ends of the fluorescent tubes. If that is what you are talking about, it is definitely necessary to light the fluorescent tubes.