My new russian

[tyrs4u]

Noved32 ! juicy strawberry every two weeks will make a happy Russian even Happier! Lilith is practically a lap cat... Fruit is good; yes its a moderation thing or none at all. But if my friend found something that was awesome and only ate it the one time twice a month, you shouldn't stress.

 

[GeoTerraTestudo]

Noved32 ! juicy strawberry every two weeks will make a happy Russian even Happier! Lilith is practically a lap cat... Fruit is good; yes its a moderation thing or none at all. But if my friend found something that was awesome and only ate it the one time twice a month, you shouldn't stress.

I think giving fruit once a month or less is better.

 

[smarch]

So we consider tomato fruit? Iv read do many mixed opinions that it's part if their diet and that it's bad. I've currently stopped with the tomatoes and cucumbers and just stuck with romain lettuce and pea shutes. I just want to keep my franklin healthy

 

[lynnedit]

Yes, Tomato is a fruit, so less is better.
They need a lot of leafy, dark greens and weeds. They make like fruit, but it interferes with their digestion.

Start with Spring mix as a base, and supplement with different other healthy greens, or better yet this time of year, weeds.
A variety is very important.

http://russiantortoise.net/russiantortoisediet.htm

http://russiantortoise.net/edible_plants.htm

 

[GeoTerraTestudo]

So we consider tomato fruit? Iv read do many mixed opinions that it's part if their diet and that it's bad. I've currently stopped with the tomatoes and cucumbers and just stuck with romain lettuce and pea shutes. I just want to keep my franklin healthy

Tomatoes are fruits because they contain seeds. The same goes for cucumbers and peppers; they are just less sweet than other fruits. In nature, herbivorous tortoises like Russians come across fruits and invertebrates only rarely. It's good for them to take advantage of these foods opportunistically, but not frequently.

Legumes like peas and clovers are not ideal plants for tortoises, because they are higher in protein than other forbs. They are also rich in phytic acid, which is an antinutrient - a compound that acts to take away other nutrients, in this case niacin. Legumes are fine for tortoises as part of a varied diet, but not when fed in large amounts.

You're going to need to give your little guy a heckuva lot more than Romaine lettuce and pea shoots. Again, they are fine as part of a more varied diet, but by themselves they do not offer nearly enough nutrition. Actually, as far as leafy greens go, cultivated lettuce is relatively nutrient-poor. You're going to want to add other greens, like endive, escarole, chicory, dandelion, wild lettuce, collard, arugula, turnip greens, mustard greens, etc. Tortoises need variety in their diet if they are to thrive.

 

[smarch]

Would I be able to get most of these at a supermarket? Living in MA makes it hard in the winter to really stick with weeds and such, and all out dandelions are long gone (right after I got him too!) I've read all sorts of books and everything had different opinions, and I wish I came across this forum earlier since obviously I'm going to trust keepers and breeders over a book and definately over petco! Also, as a supliment to the foods thAt I will be providing there's this food made by zoo med for 'grassland tortoises' and it says no pyramiding on it and everything has anyone tried this and would it be an ok supplement to leave a few in his dish between feedings (since I hate leaving him completely food less) I have this little pellet food that says for all land tortoises but he never touched it the fees times I through it in and then I read on here somewhere oats and grain and what were the first ingredients? Needless to say he's never seen those again. Is there a size ratio to go by to feed? And does food have to be little? I feel like since hes most likely WC that I shouldn't make things overly domesticated like I have baby romain and just throw them in his dish, he eats it he won't choke or anything right?


So I'm going tortoise food shopping tommorow at my grocery store what should I pick up? Also for food plate it's a saucer to put a plant pot on right? One of the clay ones? I want to make sure I don't get his beak overgrown, what do you all use/what have you tried that you liked/didn't like?

 

[lynnedit]

Yes, you can get a lot of greens at supermarkets. Ideally the organic section if they have one.
Spring mix, then radicchio, mustard greens, kale, collard greens, argula, bok choy, etc., are usuallly in supermarkets.

I like using a 12" square tile with a rough, rather than smooth surface. You can buy these individually as places like Home Depot and Lowe's, usually. Or, you can use a clay pot base, but I think a flat surface works better.

 

[smarch]

Thanks lynnedit I prefer the organic section for my little guy since i know there's more nutrition for him there. And he's a messy eater I feel like on a flat tile the food wound end up everywhere. But I do have tiles laying around here so I'll try it, no need for a specific type right? Can any hurt him? Like the colors on top or anything?

 

[lynnedit]

No, any tile should be fine!

 

[GeoTerraTestudo]

One thing you might try is offering your tortoise a high-quality commercial food, like Mazuri Tortoise Diet. This product is used to feed giant tortoises in zoos, and is good for smaller pet tortoises, too.

 

[tinkerbell1189]

If you can't find a lot of weeds the you buy a Russian tortoise seed mix and grow them, since their weeds they thrive off neglect and are really easy to grow.

 

[dmmj]

Thanks lynnedit I prefer the organic section for my little guy since i know there's more nutrition for him there. And he's a messy eater I feel like on a flat tile the food wound end up everywhere. But I do have tiles laying around here so I'll try it, no need for a specific type right? Can any hurt him? Like the colors on top or anything?

Personally I would go with a tile without paint, or glaze of any type of coating. Some natural type of tile.

 

[smarch]

I currently have a glazed plate we used under plants as his food dish, I plan to get an unglazed one soon but this was lying around. I've decided that a tile won't work cuz he makes a mess even in a bowl do I feel like a flat surface would be worse, also I want to get him a good soaking bowl, I know zoomed makes a ramped bowl and that's what they had at petco in their enclosure, wanted to know what people use in their indoor enclosures to allow tortoises to soak themselves.
Also where would I get a seed mix for him? I looked everywhere online but saw no weed mixes and just feel crazy.

 

[lynnedit]

Being thrifty, I use a plant base for soaking as well. It can't be too deep,just 1-2", they need to be able to climb in and out.

Weed mixes:
http://www.carolinapetsupply.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=41&products_id=590
Free shipping!

Or
http://www.tortoisesupply.com/TestudoMix.
(I like avoiding any grass with Russians as they don't eat it, really, so it can take over eventually).

 

[smarch]

First is it normal for him to sleep in his bowl like that (yes I am working on getting a bigger one) and the next ones are of his makeshift outside enclosure, not for living just to keep him contained while I sit with him so I'm not constantly chasing after him. And his new substrates Eco earth 8 quarts and reptibark about half of a 24 quart bag, plenty to burrow, he's not used to it yet but am I doing everything alright? I got him a grassland mix he doesn't really like it but it has everything he's supposed to have in it and feed him organic spring mix and dandelions leaves I can find. He seems happier than before

 

[lynnedit]

She may be sitting in the water bowl because she may want a bigger one to soak in. It also may mean that she is too hot. Is one side of your enclosure close to 70 so she can cool off? Turn off the heat/lights at night, they really appreciate a cool down overnight. Warm and cool temps are very important for your tortoise's health and comfort.

Your substrate sounds much better. Be sure to add water to it fairly regularly to the substrate and mix it in, so the lower levels are moist.

A lot of Russians won't eat the prepared foods, even though it is the 'right stuff'. Eventually they may, but it is not essential, even though it is certainly convenient!
They really love fresh weeds and greens.

Make sure he has a cuttlebone in his enclosure.

The seed mixes mentioned above are actually for sprouting in seed trays or in a patch of soil outside. You will then have more fresh greens.

 

[smarch]

I do feed him fresh greens, currently I scavenge my yard and get mostly dandilions and clovers and put a few in but bring him out for a while to graze, I only feed a few pellets of the prepared food as a supplement (moisten the pellets to a mush per instructions, its a grassland mix)
Yes one enclosure side is around 90 daytime the other is around 75 and 80 varying on daytime temp, I think the heat lamp makes it too hot inside? Would he be fine with just the uv lamp in the summer months or does that not provide him enough heat? I am working on the bigger water dish I just need to get one that won't overtake the enclosure.
Should his hidey log be on the hot or cool side?
And yes I do have a cuttlebone in there I don't think he uses it, and I do use supplement on his food about twice a week.

 

[lynnedit]

Yes, turn off the heat lamp, Russians don't need such warm temps. Turn everything off at night. Cool side should be 70 ish.
It is possible you will need the UV and heat lamp in the winter, depending on your house temp, but unlikely, as aquariums hold in the heat more.
Put the hide about midway if you only have the one hide (which is fine depending on how much room there is).

Diet sounds fine
Other than adjusting temps, you are doing a good job.
It is really great that you are getting him outside regularly!