New Owner to Two Florida Boxies

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rvtjess

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Hello all! I've recently acquired two Florida boxies and was hoping for some helpful advice on husbandry for these guys. I was told they were between 9 to 12 months old, and was told **roughly** they are a male and female (but it can be hard to tell, due to their small size).

I have owned Russians and RES in the past but want to make sure I am doing everything right for these guys.

I've been using http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/cs-flboxie.htm as a care sheet, but there are still a few questions that I have regarding diet.

We bought the half and half mix (field greens and spinach mix, I believe). We were given a calcium supplement to sprinkle over their protein source once a week and were told to feed some fruits maybe twice a week (strawberry, apple, papaya).

Well... basically... just assume I don't know anything about them and grace me with your knowledge :)
 

reagansymone

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Welcome to the forum!
I have 3 Florida boxies, and am getting ready to take in my fourth, a rescue, this month. I have a blog called Tiny Turtle Journey that kind of follows their day-to-day and gives some helpful information on husbandry. My blog is just starting out, so I know I've only just begun to scrape the surface of questions new owners have, but please check it out!
www.tinyturtlejourney.com

And you're right...the gender is probably just a guess. Did you get them from a breeder? I feel like they should be able to pinpoint an age, but. As far as gender, breeders can have an idea based on the temperature the eggs were incubated (warmer makes girls, cooler makes boys), but it's not really possible to know their gender by looking at them until they are 'adults'. Some people say they can tell gender as young as 3 years, but a boxie can be as old as 10 years before you know.

For feeding, box turtles are omnivores, with an emphasis on protein (meat. bugs, snails, slugs). Especially when they are young, and it seems especially Florida's, they like their protein better than their fruits and veggies. And they like their fruits more than their veggies. You mentioned protein but not what you're feeding them...hopefully live food (meal worms, wax worms, butter worms, nightcrawlers, etc) and not a pre-made box turtle diet (which are okay, but not ideal).

Please please message me with your questions. I'd love to answer any that you have. And follow my blog for random spurts of information, and feel free to comment on there with questions as well. And you can message me on Facebook, too, if that's easier.
https://www.facebook.com/reagansymone
 

Saleama

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I have a small rescue who has only gained 3 grams in the year I have had him. He currently only weights 23 grams and is a year and a half old. His little brothers weight 34 and 39 grams and are three months younger. He has trouble eating live food and will try for an hour or so but usually gives up and lets the other babies eat them. I have found that he LOVES roasted chicken. It isn't too much of an imposition for me as I go to Sam's and pick one up and dice up a weeks worth for the little guy (about 90% white meat) and have a few days of lunches for myself. He also appears to like veggie omelettes that I cook dry because he should not have butter. LOL...
 

rvtjess

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Oh, you are all wonderful, thank you so much.

We picked them up from a reptile expo. The breeder seemed to be very knowledgeable and was very patient to answer my hundreds of questions... however, I was fully well aware that their main goal was to sell to make profit. I checked to make sure they looked to be healthy and parasite free on gross exam, eyes are bright and clear, no signs of shell rot or any issues, plastron and carapace both look great. They had a bunch from their clutch from earlier this year/late last year all housed together so the 9-12 months was an approximation due to having a few clutches together (there were maybe only 8 altogether). We picked the two that we thought looked to be the most active and eating well (as we saw them eating while we were there).

A question I do have now, though; so we get them home and set up: we were told to use cypress mulch and I decided to use a rubbermaid container to house them in... got all the basics set up, plenty of mulch for them to burrow in, nice temp gradient, etc. Except they aren't eating. The smaller one walked around in the soaking dish and ducked her(?) head underwater a few times, walked around a bit ("exploring" presumably), and then went off to borrow with the "male". The male just immediately walked off and buried himself. I have yet to see either one eat. Food is left untouched. I was assured they were eating (and we observed them eating at the expo). I misted their cage this morning, offered fresh greens, and when I came home this evening they were in the same place, buried, food still untouched. Now I hate disturbing them but I get so paranoid with animals in my care that something is wrong so I did dig them out and put them next to another bowl of fresh food that I put in there again... both immediately went off in different directions and burrowed.

I understand they like to burrow but it obviously worries me that they aren't interested in eating at all. Again, I'm used to my Russian who would be waiting for me with food every day and would dig right in! This is probably me being a paranoid mama. I'm an RVT, can talk any clients through anything, but when it comes to my own pets I feel so helpless sometimes :(
 

rvtjess

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Oops... realized I forgot to answer the question about protein... we were told they were being fed nightcrawlers once a week, so I have not offered them any yet. And I also forgot to mention with their greens I am also offering diced frozen strawberries that I've let thaw (as I already had some for my sugar gliders). I know with my Russian I wasn't supposed to offer fruits very often, so I wasn't sure how much fruit was ok for these guys?
 

CharlieM

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Young boxies eat bugs, worms, mealworms and snails well. They are pretty carnivorous and are attracted to movement. they devour earthworms and may also eat some fruits like banana or blueberries. I would feed worms more than once a week. Just my opinion.
 

reagansymone

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Lots of good info haha. Yes I agree, definitely protein more than once a week. I feed mine protein every other day, and fruits/greens daily. Are you feeding them in a little container they can't escape from? That's how I started with mine...I know yours aren't fresh out of the ground like mine were, but they are in a new environment which can be stressful and confusing. And don't worry about disturbing their sleep, the first couple weeks mine would only come out when I pulled them out...now they come out and hunt by themselves.

Try putting them (one at a time) in a small container like a Tupperware that they can't climb out of, with their food (including live food). Let them alone for 30 minutes to an hour...watching them can make them nervous, so just make sure to not move too much or make sure they can't see you if you want to watch. This way they can't just run away and hide.

Also, soak them in warm water just before feeding. At first I soaked them before and after feeding. The warm water helps get them going, and release anything filling their tummies. You can also let lettuce and fruit float around while they soak...I don't put the live food in the water because it tends to drown.

Also, you can leave roly poly bugs (pill bugs, Isopods, wood lice) in their habitat all the time so they can't hunt if they are hungry. If the conditions are right for the turtles, they will also be right for the roly polys to breed/coexist.

And yes, what are your temperature and humidity levels?
And do they get outside at all? They need sunlight at least an hour a week, and if this can't happen then thy definitely need a UV light


I'm on my phone, sorry ... ***put pill bugs so they CAN hunt
Haha
 

rvtjess

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Unsure of humidity as I haven't purchased a hygrometer yet, but I do mist them/their cage multiple times a day.

I discovered I DO need a warming basking light as its only getting to be about 82*, maybe 84*... The one I bought apparently isn't cutting it. Will swap that out for a warmer one this evening after work.

I did as you suggested with feeding them in a separate container that they can't climb out of with warm water and f&v... I sat the container outside with the lid covering ~3/4 of it... the larger one did chomp on a piece of lettuce, but the smaller one did not eat anything. Oh, and I made sure not to hover! Will be picking up some nightcrawlers this evening to offer.....

They do have a UVB light as well as going outside.

Both are pretty active when I dig them out, and kick around when I pick them up. I just get so nervous that I'm not doing everything perfect. Would probably be easier if I worked at a clinic that saw exotics, but all we see are cats, dogs, and the occasional pocket pet. Certainly no reptiles! I even have to take my suggies to a different vet since my drs don't see them.

Would you recommend a vet check up for these guys? The vet I take my suggies to also sees a lot of reptiles/amphibians so I feel comfortable taking them, if it's necessary.

I only brought them home Sunday afternoon, so I haven't even had them for a full 48 hours yet. Just a paranoid mama :(
 

reagansymone

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Don't worry, you're doing great! They're probably still adjusting, so don't stress too much. And once they have wiggly worms in front of them that will probably help as well. Petco usually carries wax worms and meal worms as well, so feel free to try those...they are smaller than an earthworm so it might be easier for them to eat. Wax worms are very fattening, so use those sparingly once you've gotten them eating regularly.

I don't do vet checkups, personally. It's just extra stress on them. It's good to have a vet that will work with them incase they get sick or anything happens...but I wouldn't take mine to the vet unless sickness or injury was obvious or suspected.

And make sure you have a vitamin supplement (usually powder, but there are sprays also) and a calcium +D3 supplement to put on their food. For my babies I put the calcium every other day, and vitamins every day if I remember...but follow the directions on the label of whatever brand you buy. Also, it's good to leave a cuttlefish bone (like for birds) in their enclosure so that they can chew on it if they want to, to regulate their own calcium levels.
 

rvtjess

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OK so I picked up a better basking bulb, a thermometer/hygrometer, and some nightcrawlers tonight. Humidity in their cage is ~75% before I misted it, closer to 80% afterwards. And then I dug them out and offered them a nightcrawler... and these two just absolutely came to life! The smaller one went right for it... once I turned our larger guy around he also made a bee line... was hilarious watching them go after this poor unsuspecting nightcrawler. And I feel much, much better now since I've seen them eat. :)

Quick question, since I've never dealt with nightcrawlers (just mealworms) -- whats the best way to keep them? Can you leave them in the fridge? I only picked up like 12 for now.
 

reagansymone

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Yes, night crawlers I just keep in the fridge. I'm not sure how long they last (a few weeks?), someone else should answer that. But in the fridge they'll last longest
 

johnsonnboswell

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If your substrate contains enough nutrients your worms can live there. It's good for turtles to hunt, and it's a nice surprise in the dead if winter to find live good under the water dish.

I don't mist my habitat, I water it with a watering can & stir it up. It should be damp enough to germinate seeds.

A leaf pile provides a hide, food for worms, & enriches the soil.
 

CharlieM

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reagansymone said:
Yes, night crawlers I just keep in the fridge. I'm not sure how long they last (a few weeks?), someone else should answer that. But in the fridge they'll last longest

Canadian night crawlers need to be refrigerated.
European night crawlers and red wigglers prefer room temps.
Many people are turning to vermicomposting their kitchen scraps and have a constant source of worms for their reptiles as well as great worm castings for their plants.
 

rvtjess

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OK, another question.... what substrate do you prefer to use for these guys indoors?

Using cypress mulch now, misting and pouring a few cups of water into the substrate daily... it seems to hold moisture well; my issue with it though is that I tend to lose these little guys... the larger one I don't have as much of a problem with finding and digging out, as it leaves a telltale mound where it burrows... but my smaller one virtually disappears with no sign. I just spend 15 minutes digging around in the mulch trying to find her for feeding time :(

I used coconut fiber with my Russian, which I liked, but had to clean more frequently.
 

johnsonnboswell

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I use a mixture of coconut coir and finished compost. My garden's greatest yield is compost...
 

rvtjess

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Am considering switching to coconut coir... Just spent another 15 minutes trying to find them. Can't panic about them escaping because there is no way they got out, and the room is closed off from my cats/dog getting in for that to be an issue, either.

The second I put them in, they immediately run to bury themselves and they *do not* come out (to eat or anything) on their own unless I dig them out. Is this normal?
 

reagansymone

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It's normal for them to hide. All the time haha. And the coconut coir won't really make it easier to find them. It's nice and soft and is easy to push around gently with your fingers...but it sticks to them a lot if they're wet, and they dig deep into it also.


Also, box turtles usually come out at dawn and dusk, when it's not too bright or too hot. And they come out in the rain. Here in Florida we get big afternoon rains, and that's when mine always come out. Try a heavy misting. And don't expect them out in the middle of the day
 
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