Pyramiding in leopard tortoise

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nupek

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Hi,
My tortoise is around 12-14 months old. I got her when she was around 6-8 months old, perfectly smooth and round. Since then she had been growing very fast - from 144g to 320g currently. And she started pyramiding as well. The humidity is around 50% (she lives in an open wooden box with mostly peat moss and soil), she has access to a small pool all the time, I soak her every other day for 10-20 minutes. Please, have a look at the attached photo. Could the fast growth be the problem? Should I cut down on food? She eats two times per day around 15-20 g of green food only (no fruits, vegetables, etc.). Thanks in advance for any input.
 

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EricIvins

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Lack of humidity and hydration is your problem.....These animals are made to grow fast when the resources are available to them.......Up the ambient humidity to around 70% and it will more than likely start to correct itself.......
 

nupek

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Thank you, EricIvins. I have never seen such a recommendations when it comes to leopard tortoises. I'm mostly concerned about the bone growth - instead of growing in all directions, it seems to grow only up. I was thinking about recreating "dry season" - less food, making her walk more and be more active in general to slow down the growth.
 

kimber_lee_314

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Others may disagree with me, but I feed my hatchlings every other day. In my experience, growing too fast is one (not the only one) of the causes of pyramiding. I prefer slow, steady growth and have had success with this.
 

wellington

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I think there is probably a few ways to grow a smooth leopard. However, the high humidity, "Toms" way works. Is easy and I can feed mine every day, which I prefer. HOT HUMID HYDRATED. Not hot and dry. Read the threads at the bottom of this post. Up your humidity to 80% is what I have and the temps not lower then 80, with the normal basking temp and your tort should start growing smooth new growth.
I just realized your tort is a yearling. Toms post is for hatchlings to yearlings. However, you do need to get it more humidity. Humid hide box or spray the tort often during the day.
 

nupek

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Thanks for the responses. wellington - do you maintain such conditions (temperature and humidity) 24 hours per day? Or do you switch off all lights during the night (which causes the temperature to drop)?
 

wellington

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nupek said:
Thanks for the responses. wellington - do you maintain such conditions (temperature and humidity) 24 hours per day? Or do you switch off all lights during the night (which causes the temperature to drop)?

Mine is also a yearling. So I still keep moist substrate, but let it dry out before I water again. I give him a dry place to sleep and a moist place to sleep. I also run my humidifier until the tank runs out, which is about 2-3hours a day. At night everything goes off except a CHE. When my leopard was younger, he started pyramiding, until i found this forum. Then I followed Toms thread to the T, with humidifier running all day and moist substrate all the time, and temps and humidity as Toms thread states. Temps at night stay at 80
 

nupek

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I changed my tortoise conditions - I have covered the top, leaving some holes for ventilation, got 50W bulb for hot spot. The humidity is around 70% now (so still some room for increasing it), the temps during the day are from 28 degrees (and the very hot space straight under the bulb is also provided). I need to buy some CHE as the temps drops to around 22 degrees during the night. The tortoise seems to be ok, active and eating a lot.

Now I noticed that many people feed their tortoises once per day/every other day, whereas I feed mine two times per day at least with total of 50-60 grams. She is 350 grams now. And she seems to be always hungry, always looking for food. I calculated her correct weight using the formula provided on the forum and she is slightly fat according to it. Should I cut down on food or give as much as she wants? Are there any calculations on how much a yearling of a certain weight should eat?
 

Neal

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How have you been giving your tortoise its UVB needs?
 

Tom

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Pyramiding is CAUSED by growth in the wrong conditions. Faster growth in the wrong conditions causes more pyramiding. That same growth rate in the correct conditions causes no pyramiding. With higher humidity levels it is imperative that the temp not drop at night. I think 22 is too low. I shoot for 26. I feed everyday. When weather permits they are outside and graze as much as they want on weeds, leaves and grass.

Here are the things I do to prevent and or stop pyramiding:
1. Proper humid hide box. Not a half log or rock cave.
2. Daily soaks.
3. Shallow water bowl always available.
4. High humidity in the enclosure.
5. Daily sunning, weather permitting... If your area won't allow this, then use a MVB.
6. Spray the shell with plain water several times a day.
7. Spray the food with water before they eat it.
8. Good varied diet with the right amount of calcium supplementation.
 

Neal

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One thing I would like to mention is that the pyramiding on your tortoise isn't severe at all and actually looks pretty good. It's hard to tell for sure from the picture, but it looks like the costal scutes are relatively smooth.

Something to consider - Pyramiding in that type of leopard tortoise is common and does occur in the wild. I personally believe you are seeing some "natural" pyramiding in your tortoise, as again, it doesn't look as severe as other cases I've seen.
 

nupek

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Thanks everyone for answers.
Neal - I have two 13W tube type flourescent UVB, around 45 cm above the substrate level. As I live in Sweden, there is very little sun currently.
Tom - she ignores the humid, plastic box I made. She is soaked daily (but often fights for life when put in the bowl), she has a small pool, humidity - at least 70%, trying to rise it. I also sprinkle the food with powdered calcium for reptiles and once or twice give her two drops of tortoise sun.
Neal again - I think that it may look better on the picture; when she was 5 months younger she was perfectly round.
 

ALDABRAMAN

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Tom said:
Pyramiding is CAUSED by growth in the wrong conditions. Faster growth in the wrong conditions causes more pyramiding. That same growth rate in the correct conditions causes no pyramiding. With higher humidity levels it is imperative that the temp not drop at night. I think 22 is too low. I shoot for 26. I feed everyday. When weather permits they are outside and graze as much as they want on weeds, leaves and grass.

Here are the things I do to prevent and or stop pyramiding:
1. Proper humid hide box. Not a half log or rock cave.
2. Daily soaks.
3. Shallow water bowl always available.
4. High humidity in the enclosure.
5. Daily sunning, weather permitting... If your area won't allow this, then use a MVB.
6. Spray the shell with plain water several times a day.
7. Spray the food with water before they eat it.
8. Good varied diet with the right amount of calcium supplementation.

:)
 
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