Redfoot eye problem

DiegoM

New Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2015
Messages
20
Look around the forum, do a few searches and you can see that we get this issue over and over again. While I agree that perhaps it could not be the light. I wouldn't risk it.

How often were you soaking previous to this? Yes you do need calcium however you also need a good UVB source for the animal to be able to absorb the calcium.

Now if this issue was happening to me I would switch out the light for an MVB, do daily soaks (with pedialyte if you'd like) , raise the humidity, and not let my temps drop below 80F.

I will look into the MVB. We would soak him minimum once a day and multiple times twicea day. I believe the problem came from how dry his tank was and not keeping it humid enough. As of yesterday I started to soaking him in pedialyte and doing it more often. The reptile store offered to take him and and do they best they can to nurture him back to health for me free of charge. Im thinking of taking him there today
 

Robber

Active Member
10 Year Member!
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
191
Location (City and/or State)
MO, USA
I will look into the MVB. We would soak him minimum once a day and multiple times twicea day. I believe the problem came from how dry his tank was and not keeping it humid enough. As of yesterday I started to soaking him in pedialyte and doing it more often. The reptile store offered to take him and and do they best they can to nurture him back to health for me free of charge. Im thinking of taking him there today

The lack of humidity of that setup can definitely cause the eye issue; the lights are also awfully high up, so they are probably not getting as warm as they should be. Also, the UVB emission from the bulbs greatly dissipates over lengths of more than a foot, so if they are not also getting D3 in the diet, they are probably not processing calcium properly. RFs do not have UV needs to the extent of other species, but they need some through one means or the other.
 

DiegoM

New Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2015
Messages
20
The lack of humidity of that setup can definitely cause the eye issue; the lights are also awfully high up, so they are probably not getting as warm as they should be. Also, the UVB emission from the bulbs greatly dissipates over lengths of more than a foot, so if they are not also getting D3 in the diet, they are probably not processing calcium properly. RFs do not have UV needs to the extent of other species, but they need some through one means or the other.

Yea I already lowered the uvb light down a lot and also heat lamp a bit lower. Did also put another heat lamp on the other side of the enclosure to increase the temp slightly
 

Robber

Active Member
10 Year Member!
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
191
Location (City and/or State)
MO, USA
Yea I already lowered the uvb light down a lot and also heat lamp a bit lower. Did also put another heat lamp on the other side of the enclosure to increase the temp slightly
Good deal. Hopefully you start to see some improvement. A few degrees can make a big difference. As a consequence you may have to work harder at maintaining humidity with the lights closer.
 

DiegoM

New Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2015
Messages
20
Good deal. Hopefully you start to see some improvement. A few degrees can make a big difference. As a consequence you may have to work harder at maintaining humidity with the lights closer.

Already noticed humidity drop a good amount. Any advice on keeping it higher? I believe having an open top enclosure is making it real tough
 

crimson_lotus

Well-Known Member
10 Year Member!
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
1,385
Location (City and/or State)
Massachusetts
I had a plastic shower curtain around my enclosure for a while, before I made a plexiglass top. Hope this helps.
 

crimson_lotus

Well-Known Member
10 Year Member!
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
1,385
Location (City and/or State)
Massachusetts
It's not wonderfully made or anything, and yes, that is duct tape. And tin foil. So we made a wooden frame on top to keep the plexiglass from bending, and the bottom is all plexiglass. There is no exposed wood within the enclosure as I lined the inside with pond liner.

It's not that pretty but I have 80-90% humidity and 80-90 degree temperatures in there. The low side is 80 and the lamp side is 90.

New Enclosure 2.JPG
 

DiegoM

New Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2015
Messages
20
It's not wonderfully made or anything, and yes, that is duct tape. And tin foil. So we made a wooden frame on top to keep the plexiglass from bending, and the bottom is all plexiglass. There is no exposed wood within the enclosure as I lined the inside with pond liner.

It's not that pretty but I have 80-90% humidity and 80-90 degree temperatures in there. The low side is 80 and the lamp side is 90.

View attachment 119243

Looks cool man. I added much more moist moss to the enclosure and the humidity went up to high 70s when i was struggling to get it over the 60s. We had a huge cold front here and it's finally passed so hopefully things get easier
 

Randi

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
430
Location (City and/or State)
Canada
I will give you this advice.. the two should of not been introduced until a minimum of six months of quarantine was reached for each. They could of come from different sources, could be carriers of an illness, and all in all generally don't do well in pairs. I would separate them completely. You can better monitor them, and their progress individually. You will also be saving them from a lot of stress.

I would say humidity is lacking. They need humidity, humidity and did I say it? Humidity. Their eyes tend to stick together when humidity is lacking. And please do not use that coil bulb. Those coil bulbs are associated with photoconjunctivitis. Use a t8 or t5 strip light.

Being able to put your tortoise outside would be awesome, if you are able to build a safe enclosure. You can look at the Enclosure section of the forum, and you can obtain some great ideas. Also, check out the Closed Chamber thread there. It will also give you great examples of how to accomplish this.

Also, here is a great place for diet. Just google Tortoise Table Plant Database. Click categories once on the site. Gives a lot of info on plants, safe as well as toxic. Click "See More" under any plant listed and you will find positives and negatives about that plant. It also lists a recommended frequency per item, if safe to feed.

Good luck to you and yours.
 
Top