Respiratory Infection questions

Joined
Apr 3, 2020
Messages
78
Location (City and/or State)
Texas
Hey guys, I recently rehomed my DBT due to it needing brackish water and it went to a person who dealt with terrapins. I then got a 3 striped mud turtle and a high orange Mississippi map turtle. The Razorback musk turtle was housed with the 3 striped mud turtle and high orange Mississippi map turtle from April 15-23rd in a 20 gallon tote. I have now separated all of them. The razorback musk turtle and 3 striped mud turtle live in a 20 gallon long and my orange Mississippi map turtles are in a 30 gallon tote box. 3 stripped mud turtle is the size of a penny, razorback musk turtle size of a nickel and the Mississippi map turtle is the size of a quarter. This housing is temporary for all turtles with the exception of the 3 striped mud turtle since I read it can live in a 20 gallon long aquarium all it's life. When I got my 3-stripped mud turtle I noticed it's eyes were a little white and when calling myturtlestore they told me it was probably from shipping they can develop that. I thought to myself that's bullsh--! Regardless, carelessly I still had all three turtles in the same tote until Thursday when I separated all of them. Now living in the 20 gallon long is my razorback musk turtle and my three striped mud turtle. I even separated them even more and put my 3-stripped mud turtle in a small container so that RI cannot be spread to my razorback musk turtle. My questions are,

1) Is my Razorback or High Orange Mississippi Map Turtle (bob is the name just for this scenario) ok or are they infected?
2) Even though my 3 stripped Mud Turtle was in the 20 gallon long for about 1-2 hours after I changed the water, should I change the water again for my razorback musk turtle?
3) I got another High Orange Mississippi Map (Tim for this scenario) on Thursday and have him with Bob in a 30 Gallon tote. do you think he will get infected?

All turtles seem to be feeding fine. One thing from Tim and bob is that Tim tends to swim underneath the decorations and hide while bob is just at the top swimming and doesn't seem to go under is he ok or am i just worrying? I looked at Bob nose and there is no mucus or "bubbles" and he is not opening his mouth for air. Same thing for my Razorback musk turtle he seems to stretch his neck out of the water for air but I've seen him do that before and also have seen him "gape" or open his mouth underwater. Today I did notice a little bubble on the top of his nose, but it could just be me freaking out. I'm going to the vet on Monday, should I have them all checked out or just Razorback Musk, three stripe mud turtle and bob the Mississippi map turtle?

I'm posting pictures down below with dates
60902632727__6CAB4B93-0CA0-41C5-97F4-B57C54B772B6.JPG
Sunday April 19th, 2020

60911018803__BE7B6804-EC43-4622-81BA-AE8801A4D29F.JPG
Monday April 20th 2020
60938131267__355B0703-1903-4F4C-833B-819743CFDFD8.JPG
April 23rd 2020

Thanks!
 

Toddrickfl1

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 7, 2018
Messages
7,103
Location (City and/or State)
Ga
Hey guys, I recently rehomed my DBT due to it needing brackish water and it went to a person who dealt with terrapins. I then got a 3 striped mud turtle and a high orange Mississippi map turtle. The Razorback musk turtle was housed with the 3 striped mud turtle and high orange Mississippi map turtle from April 15-23rd in a 20 gallon tote. I have now separated all of them. The razorback musk turtle and 3 striped mud turtle live in a 20 gallon long and my orange Mississippi map turtles are in a 30 gallon tote box. 3 stripped mud turtle is the size of a penny, razorback musk turtle size of a nickel and the Mississippi map turtle is the size of a quarter. This housing is temporary for all turtles with the exception of the 3 striped mud turtle since I read it can live in a 20 gallon long aquarium all it's life. When I got my 3-stripped mud turtle I noticed it's eyes were a little white and when calling myturtlestore they told me it was probably from shipping they can develop that. I thought to myself that's bullsh--! Regardless, carelessly I still had all three turtles in the same tote until Thursday when I separated all of them. Now living in the 20 gallon long is my razorback musk turtle and my three striped mud turtle. I even separated them even more and put my 3-stripped mud turtle in a small container so that RI cannot be spread to my razorback musk turtle. My questions are,

1) Is my Razorback or High Orange Mississippi Map Turtle (bob is the name just for this scenario) ok or are they infected?
2) Even though my 3 stripped Mud Turtle was in the 20 gallon long for about 1-2 hours after I changed the water, should I change the water again for my razorback musk turtle?
3) I got another High Orange Mississippi Map (Tim for this scenario) on Thursday and have him with Bob in a 30 Gallon tote. do you think he will get infected?

All turtles seem to be feeding fine. One thing from Tim and bob is that Tim tends to swim underneath the decorations and hide while bob is just at the top swimming and doesn't seem to go under is he ok or am i just worrying? I looked at Bob nose and there is no mucus or "bubbles" and he is not opening his mouth for air. Same thing for my Razorback musk turtle he seems to stretch his neck out of the water for air but I've seen him do that before and also have seen him "gape" or open his mouth underwater. Today I did notice a little bubble on the top of his nose, but it could just be me freaking out. I'm going to the vet on Monday, should I have them all checked out or just Razorback Musk, three stripe mud turtle and bob the Mississippi map turtle?

I'm posting pictures down below with dates
View attachment 292234
Sunday April 19th, 2020

View attachment 292235
Monday April 20th 2020
View attachment 292236
April 23rd 2020

Thanks!
If all the turtles are still eating I wouldn't worry too much. If one wasn't eating That would be the first sign something is really wrong. Out of an abundance of caution though, I would keep all new turtles in separate enclosures for at least 2 weeks to observe them before introducing them in the same enclosure. I'd also avoid a vet visit. I don't think it's necessary. Even if your turtles were sick there's not much a Vet would be able to do with such small turtles anyway. If you do decide to go don't let them sell you on Vitamin or Calcium injections.
 

Markw84

Well-Known Member
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 17, 2012
Messages
5,070
Location (City and/or State)
Sacramento, CA (Central Valley)
I'll agree with @Toddrickfl1 on the no vet visit at this time. I would also quarantine turtles I get from different sources or any from a source who wholesales a lot of turtles. Keep them separate until you see they are feeding well, acting "normal" - basking, and flight response when you approach is very good. If they have already lost some of the flight response and are used to you, they should be swimming towards you looking for food. Healthy turtles are quite active when a person approaches. You know to look for the clear eyes. The whitish would probably be irritated outer eyelid or nictitating membrane. With aquatics it is often a sign of Vit A deficiency. If just a bit white looking, but not swollen, I would just ensure a good pellet food is offered. For baby aquatics I prefer the Reptomin Baby formula pellet. See if you can get them taking that. I also normally have to use bloodworms to trigger good feeding response if they aren't eating well yet. Frozen bloodworm cubes are also always a good treat as it provides good feeding response and exercise tearing at the cube.

Mississippi maps are one of the shyest turtles. should have good flight reflex and normally hide when approached, even when they have been with you for a long time. I've had some in my pond for over 15 years now, and most of them still hide when I approach and feed. Just a few come to the front in the crowd for food. I also have a "high orange". I really like them, but be aware the intensity of the orange is somewhat dependent upon diet. A good color enhancing koi food helps with that.

I have fortunately had very little experience with RI in all the years with all my turtles. What I have seen is that is doesn't seem very contagious, but very much environmentally triggered. Out of caution, I would quarantine a symptomatic turtle and clean the tank just to feel better. Again, my view at this point is if your conditions are right, the others will be fine.
 
Joined
Apr 3, 2020
Messages
78
Location (City and/or State)
Texas
I'll agree with @Toddrickfl1 on the no vet visit at this time. I would also quarantine turtles I get from different sources or any from a source who wholesales a lot of turtles. Keep them separate until you see they are feeding well, acting "normal" - basking, and flight response when you approach is very good. If they have already lost some of the flight response and are used to you, they should be swimming towards you looking for food. Healthy turtles are quite active when a person approaches. You know to look for the clear eyes. The whitish would probably be irritated outer eyelid or nictitating membrane. With aquatics it is often a sign of Vit A deficiency. If just a bit white looking, but not swollen, I would just ensure a good pellet food is offered. For baby aquatics I prefer the Reptomin Baby formula pellet. See if you can get them taking that. I also normally have to use bloodworms to trigger good feeding response if they aren't eating well yet. Frozen bloodworm cubes are also always a good treat as it provides good feeding response and exercise tearing at the cube.

Mississippi maps are one of the shyest turtles. should have good flight reflex and normally hide when approached, even when they have been with you for a long time. I've had some in my pond for over 15 years now, and most of them still hide when I approach and feed. Just a few come to the front in the crowd for food. I also have a "high orange". I really like them, but be aware the intensity of the orange is somewhat dependent upon diet. A good color enhancing koi food helps with that.

I have fortunately had very little experience with RI in all the years with all my turtles. What I have seen is that is doesn't seem very contagious, but very much environmentally triggered. Out of caution, I would quarantine a symptomatic turtle and clean the tank just to feel better. Again, my view at this point is if your conditions are right, the others will be fine.
Hello guys thanks for the advice I have separated all turtles except for the two high orange Mississippi map turtles. I do believe my three striped mud turtle has some sort of RI since I do see the turtle reach out from his container and stretch his neck and open it’s mouth. I got him/her to eat a small blood work and have been doing some dry docking to fight the infection I believe is present. My razorback musk turtle seems to be doing fine with the occasional neck stretch for air and gaping underwater that I’ve seen once. As long as my two high orange Mississippi map turtles go both of them eat fine but only one of them which is the newer one seems to hide when it sees me and the other seems to swim on top of water and doesn’t get scared of me. Again I’ve only had her for 10 days should I be concerned about that high orange Mississippi map turtle. They seem to not be too keen about the Khoi color enhancing pellets but still eat them. I do also feed repto min and have soaked all the turtles in a carrot bath. Should I go ahead and get a reptofogger and f10 vet disinfectant. Dilute 3ML of the solution with and do a fog chamber to treat the suspected turtle with RI?
 

New Posts

Top