RT sleeping more?

McTopHats

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My RT has been sleeping way more than usually. There has not been any environment changes since the beginning of July, other than his subtrate. He use to go to sleep in his hide log at 8 and wake up around 8. Now he is going to sleep by 5 in his hide log. He also wakes up later. Today, he was asleep in his log at noon, which he has never done before.
What may be the cause of this? Should I take him to his vet? Thank you!
 

ascott

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My RT has been sleeping way more than usually. There has not been any environment changes since the beginning of July, other than his subtrate. He use to go to sleep in his hide log at 8 and wake up around 8. Now he is going to sleep by 5 in his hide log. He also wakes up later. Today, he was asleep in his log at noon, which he has never done before.
What may be the cause of this? Should I take him to his vet? Thank you!

Have you gone over your checklist carefully? How long have you had the tort?
 

McTopHats

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Have you gone over your checklist carefully? How long have you had the tort?
I'm going to completely replace his subtrate soon, but I don't think that would cause him to sleep more. I've been giving him a variety of greens. I put calcium on his food everyday. He is seven years old, but I got him in January.
 

dmmj

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they tend to sleep more for one or nore reasons. Heat and light are two of the biggest reasons.
 

johnsonnboswell

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What are you using for a UVB light?

I don't understand the concept of different bulbs. Can you explain?
 

wellington

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If you search under all the russian threads, you will find that there are many russians right now acting out of sorts, including mine. If all the temps and humidity is correct, I would not worry too much. Mine has slowed down on eating and so have many others and not wanting to be quite as active as before. I don't know why, but mine does this type of thing at least twice a year. Nothing bad has ever come of it. It's just a thing I think a lot of them do. If housing requirements, temps, etc, check out, then keep him hydrated, keep feeding daily and keep just a little closer eye on him and it will probably pass with no problems.
 

lismar79

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I also do not think you need calcium every day for an adult male. Once or twice a week tops. Uv lights loose there strength after t a few months, do you get him outside at all?
 

McTopHats

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I also do not think you need calcium every day for an adult male. Once or twice a week tops. Uv lights loose there strength after t a few months, do you get him outside at all?
I bought him a new light earlier tonight, I hope that helps. I'll slow down on feeding him calcium. Will that harm him? And yes, he goes outside at least 4 times a week for a total 30 minutes a day (as long as the weather permits it).
 

McTopHats

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If you search under all the russian threads, you will find that there are many russians right now acting out of sorts, including mine. If all the temps and humidity is correct, I would not worry too much. Mine has slowed down on eating and so have many others and not wanting to be quite as active as before. I don't know why, but mine does this type of thing at least twice a year. Nothing bad has ever come of it. It's just a thing I think a lot of them do. If housing requirements, temps, etc, check out, then keep him hydrated, keep feeding daily and keep just a little closer eye on him and it will probably pass with no problems.
That makes me feel so much better! I am still pretty new, but I am trying to be the best parent for him as I can. Thank you so much!
 

ascott

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I'm going to completely replace his subtrate soon, but I don't think that would cause him to sleep more. I've been giving him a variety of greens. I put calcium on his food everyday. He is seven years old, but I got him in January.

Yes changing the substrate can have an affect on the tort...I would not add the calcium for awhile and see if this will help..you can even cut up a tomato in big pieces and place that with the greens you are going to offer and toss all until the tomato has saturated its juices onto the salad..remove the tomato pieces and offer to the tort...I also would absolutely bumb the basking spot more to like 100 degrees...this will offer the tort the ability to warm up his core temp to stimulate appetite as well as expell waste...temp plays a larger roll than some realize...
 

TMartin510

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If you search under all the russian threads, you will find that there are many russians right now acting out of sorts, including mine. If all the temps and humidity is correct, I would not worry too much. Mine has slowed down on eating and so have many others and not wanting to be quite as active as before. I don't know why, but mine does this type of thing at least twice a year. Nothing bad has ever come of it. It's just a thing I think a lot of them do. If housing requirements, temps, etc, check out, then keep him hydrated, keep feeding daily and keep just a little closer eye on him and it will probably pass with no problems.
I know russians tend to settle down and eat less near normal hibernation times, probably whether you hibernate them or not. I hibernate my older one, she goes into her hide and I have a heat source like rock buried under into the ground to keep the ground warmer for the winter.
 

ascott

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I know russians tend to settle down and eat less near normal hibernation times, probably whether you hibernate them or not. I hibernate my older one, she goes into her hide and I have a heat source like rock buried under into the ground to keep the ground warmer for the winter.

You heat the hibernacle?
 

TMartin510

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Kinda, I wouldn't say heat it just makes the dirt warmish. My father set it up years ago and they seem to like it, I had to put a temp hide in there that had a bottom to it and they don't like it, so I gotta replace it so they feel the warm dirt again. It's really buried deep
 

ascott

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Kinda, Iis no ine way to offer a wouldn't say heat it just makes the dirt warmish. My father set it up years ago and they seem to like it, I had to put a temp hide in there that had a bottom to it and they don't like it, so I gotta replace it so they feel the warm dirt again. It's really buried deep
Interesting...I will be the first to say there absolutely is no one way to set up a successful hibernacle...while there are basics from which to guide the event..there are always variables...and adult tortoise are a bit more flexible...thank you for sharing part of what works for the tort in your care.
 

ascott

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I'm guessing heating it is wrong? Idk I don't have much experience with hibernating other then them just doing it when winter comes. And they've been doing It for over 10 years.

Lol...I would not say wrong but generally warmth is not a normal factor...generally cool but not below freezing is a bit more usual...the reason that cool is desirable vs warm is that some species have a deep seeded need/clock that forces that part of their life cycle to happen and even if the tort is kept in warm environment their body goes into brumation mode...so if the torts body/ core is not able to cool during brumatiin then they are still using up some small amount of energy as a result of the temp...so if you have an adult then this is not of the same urgency as a yiung or hatchling age..a tortoise has a very long life span naturally pre set simply gy being a tortoise..so while 10 years seems along time for us..it really is not so long...and if we don't try to offer up a cool quiet dark dry hibernacle then the chance of harm increases and may not rear its ugly head for awhile....and then again it may also cruise along fine...I believe that if the goal in care is aimed entirely at preparing the tort during the nice weather months with the plan of down winter time..then that is just as important...I am in no way saying to you to stop what appears to work for the tort in yiur care...but always just make sure all is in check the best we can...nothing is ever perfect, you know?
 

TMartin510

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Lol...I would not say wrong but generally warmth is not a normal factor...generally cool but not below freezing is a bit more usual...the reason that cool is desirable vs warm is that some species have a deep seeded need/clock that forces that part of their life cycle to happen and even if the tort is kept in warm environment their body goes into brumation mode...so if the torts body/ core is not able to cool during brumatiin then they are still using up some small amount of energy as a result of the temp...so if you have an adult then this is not of the same urgency as a yiung or hatchling age..a tortoise has a very long life span naturally pre set simply gy being a tortoise..so while 10 years seems along time for us..it really is not so long...and if we don't try to offer up a cool quiet dark dry hibernacle then the chance of harm increases and may not rear its ugly head for awhile....and then again it may also cruise along fine...I believe that if the goal in care is aimed entirely at preparing the tort during the nice weather months with the plan of down winter time..then that is just as important...I am in no way saying to you to stop what appears to work for the tort in yiur care...but always just make sure all is in check the best we can...nothing is ever perfect, you know?
Exactly! Thank you for the information!
 
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