Are you trying to seal it so that fluids do not go thru and warp the wood, or are you trying to seal off the entire table to make it two tables?
I do know that Thompsons makes a good wood sealer, altho I'm not sure how safe that would be for the tort's; or perhaps you could line it with a tarp, glued down at the bottom and the brought up the walls and stapled? If you are wanting to add live plants, that might be the way to go... ?
And Skipper does have a good point; if the torts need two different habitats (humidity, temperature, etc..) you may want to invest in another table; not cost effective, but surely healthier for the tort's. That is one reason why I stick with Leopards; I quarantine the newbee well before introducing him to my others, but at least after that time period, they can all live together...
Anyways, hope this helps & good luck!
Blessings, Purpod
Water seals stink for a long time. I wonder if they ever really dry.
I sealed my table seams with 30 minute epoxy to prevent fluids from seeping out. Then I washed the wood floor with the same epoxy diluted 50% with rubbing alcohol. I wanted a waterproof seal and still have a rough surface, not a skating rink. I also used the rough side of the plywood as the floor that the Torts will grip. Walls were sealed with acrylic polyurethane (1/2 pint can) several times just to give the bacteria a run for their money i.e easy clean up and dammm does it look like new wood. Once it's populated I'll post pics of the process.
Rotate the table so that so are applying the polyurethane onto a flat surface. Sometimes it wants to run downhill and puddle.
Some folks on the forum have talked about using a high gloss, water-based paint, and that works well. Others have used varnish and let it dry for a long time. While still others have lined the table with plastic, either sheet plastic or a shower curtain liner. This works well too. It all depends upon what would be easy for you.
I had some Thompson's water seal in my shopping cart one day and I stopped a clerk to ask a question about hinges for a tortoise shed. He asked if I were going to use the water seal inside the tortoise house and when I said yes, he advised me not to use it as it was hard to ever get rid of the smell and it might be harmful to the tortoise.
It is a large book case that I am using and it already has two seperate areas. And yes I am trying to seal the wood sorry I should have asked the question better.
I like the idea of shower courtains but how do people secure them?
A gloss or semi gloss acrylic latex enamel or alkyd latex enamel paint or polyurethane will both work equally as well for a protective coating for a tortoise enclosure. The aforementioned sealers form a barrier between the wood and the environment and work well.
For a box turtle that should have a much more humid substrate you should use either a plastic or fiberglass liner or use a completely seperate Rubbermaid type storage container. They are relatively inexpensive for the quality and durability that you get from them and come in a variety of sizes.
Some people do use flexible liners (rubber, plastic, tarps, etc...) and staple the edges. I have never liked the idea of using staples because they can come loose and be swallowed or embedded in the tortoises skin potentially causing wounds and infection. Staples also rust with moisture which can weaken them.
How slippery or rough the bottom of the enclosure is shouldn't matter since it should have at least a good 2" or more of suitable substrate material on top of it. Ideally the surface should be smooth and non-porous for ease of cleaning.
DO NOT use free flowing wood sealers such as Thompson's or similar products. They do not seal wood in the traditional sense. They are designed to seep into the pores of the wood fiber to block moisture but still allow the wood to breath. Upon contact with water some residue of the sealer does seep out when the product has been freshly applied. How much and how often varies. Those type of products are designed for outdoor, non-food contact use only. They are not a good product to use with animals.
You are keeping two different species that have very different environmental needs. It's going to be very unlikely that you will be able to keep them within the same enclosure and provide the conditions that both species require to remain healthy.
I just lay it down like I was going to wrap a package. You can trim the corners, or fold them like "hospital corners" on a bed. then when you go up the side, you can either tape the top edge or staple it. I used staples.
My thinking is what is the differecne if I use two seperate bookcases or one big one as they would be right beside each other anyway??? What would be the difference if I kept them both in rubbermaids right beside each other?? I have the box turtles in the biggest rubbermaid I can find(50 gallon) and would like to give them more space and the book case gives them so much more room.
I was thinking of really strong double sided tape to seal on a shower courtain woudl that work ??
I am very thankful for all the insight I am just trying to understand
The shower curtain will trap moisture and mold underneath it.
Applying sealer is easy. Just paint it on and go do something else. Re-apply a few times.
The acrylic is applied the same way and as every girl knows about painting nails, turn off the fan, close the windows and turn off the furnace so there is still air or else, bubbles. So I've been told.
I'm doing much the same as you for my tort's new table, just minus the divider... I decided to go the "easy" way, since I want it done fast, don't like dealing with what's good/what's bad, and am NOT handy. I found a pond liner online for $20, free shipping, in just the size I need (5x10 ft). When it got here, I fit it into the overturned, assembled (minus shelves) bookcase, made the bottom as smooth as possible, and applied glue beneath the liner... I haven't gotten to attaching it to the sides yet, but I'll probably go glue, with tape along the top.
Sealing- I like water-based polyurethane and a good drying time. Do several thin layers and let each cure well.
Plastic liners- these work great, just use some common sense. If you use staples, use them outside the habitat. You can use some double sided tape as well to help hold things as you staple.
Two habitats- your two species want different temps and humidities, and can carry disease that the others have little resistance to. Using two habitats offers you more insurance and them more comfort and protection. I cannot think of a way to give the boxies the humidity they want in the open-toped table without also humidifying the Greek- which can get breathing problems from too much humidity for too long.
Thanks I think I have what I am going to do in my head now I just have to recreate it as for the humidity I was going to use creative cubes as a lid and was going to use plexi to seal of most of the top of the enclosure on the boxes side to help with humdity also I will keep it well planted which helps. The Greek will just have creative cubes on his side.
If you decide to use a paint go with acrylic or enamel latex. Because latex paint is a water-based product it does not give off any noxious or harmful fumes. If you use any other type of finish that is not water-based there will be some form of noxious fumes given off during the curing process due to the base solvents used in the product. Lacquer and mineral spirits being the most common.