Setting up for a Russian Tortoise - Constructive comments welcome

[Anastasia 22]

@Tom

Just to confirm this is the correct Roach Trap.

View attachment 371637

Hello!
Those traps work! Not sure if they are toxic though.
I wouldn't put them close to my Russian boy since he is really curious. The good thing is he just sniff and doesn't eat if it's not organic greens😄

 

[David Steere]

Hello!
Those traps work! Not sure if they are toxic though.
I wouldn't put them close to my Russian boy since he is really curious. The good thing is he just sniff and doesn't eat if it's not organic greens😄

My thinking was once the lights go out place the traps since currently my little Russian Tortoise digs deep and does not come up until the light/heat are turned on. Will pick up the traps before lights go on.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Perhaps you can place one trap on top of the humid hide - hungry crickets will find the way to get there.

 

[Anastasia 22]

My thinking was once the lights go out place the traps since currently my little Russian Tortoise digs deep and does not come up until the light/heat are turned on. Will pick up the traps before lights go on.

Oh, wow! Your baby does dig deep!
What a cute baby!!!! 😍

 

[Tom]

@Tom @Alex and the Redfoot @wellington

So sorry to keep bothering you all.

Thanks everyone! I will get roach traps asap. Might not be today. In the time being...

1. Should I leave the food in enclosure overnight. I found the cricket is dish. So crickets have actual food and not tempted to chew on tortoise?
2. When I do get roach traps do I place them when lights go off?
3. Do I put take food out of dish and put some food in trap?
4. Do I take trap out when lights go on or okay to leave in enclosure 24/7? Will the tortoise be tempted to mess with trap?

1. I wouldn't. Your only feeding them, attracting more and giving them resources to use for good health and reproduction.
2. I place them wherever convenient.
3. No need for food in the trap.
4. Don't leave trap where tortoise can access it.

I use "Roach Motels".

 

[David Steere]

Thanks @Tom

I will make sure the food is out before the lights go off.

Is this the one?

1. Should I take the water dish out each night before the lights go off also?
2. Is it okay if I put the "Roach Motel" on substrate when lights go off take them out before Sandy starts to walk around each morning or would that be chancy? Or put them below the enclosure on the floor? Or on the top wood around the parameter of the enclosure? Maybe in the flower pots? Top of hides? Below is the enclosure. What would you do?

 

[SinLA]

Thanks @Tom

I will make sure the food is out before the lights go off.

Is this the one?
View attachment 371679

1. Should I take the water dish out each night before the lights go off also?
2. Is it okay if I put the "Roach Motel" on substrate when lights go off take them out before Sandy starts to walk around each morning or would that be chancy? Or put them below the enclosure on the floor? Or on the top wood around the parameter of the enclosure? Maybe in the flower pots? Top of hides? Below is the enclosure. What would you do?

View attachment 371680

When my Russian is in his indoor enclosure I have a motion-sensitive camera on him, and he surprises me several days a year getting up at 4:30 or 5am to wander around in the dark. I would not put it anywhere yours can get to it, and crickets can get where it can't. So if you put it on top of that black hide for example, maybe with a piece of tape to keep it there, you should be fine.

FYI roach motels didn't work for me at all. Crickets ignored them, I ended up moving my tortoise into a different space at night instead.

 

[Cathie G]

@Alex and the Redfoot @wellington @Yvonne G @Tom

Is there anything negative about handling a Tortoise to much?

For instance a number of times a day I have some time and go and check on Sandy. I pick Sandy up, place Sandy by the food dish, watch Sandy eat than walk back to the basking area or behind a pot and I got my fix so I continue with my day. This made me think if I was being a bad Tortoise keeper.

Question. Will Sandy get use to this and not go to the food dish? Get lazy? Does this stress Sandy out by interfering with Sandy's day to day activity?

Sorry for the silly question.

It's not silly. I don't handle mine a lot but I do handle him. I have to when I take him outside and place him in his enclosure. For baths and care you have to. If I'm trying to get him to eat I'll place him away from it so he doesn't tromp all over it when he gets mad. Over the years he's gotten used to it. If it's spring he'll stand tall and try to get me to pick him up now. That didn't take long but he was older. I don't think what you are doing is wrong. Sandy will be Sandy when your back is turned anyway.😉😊

 

[SocialD]

To @Tom @Carol S @Yvonne G and the rest of the wonderful people on TortioseForum!

My name is David Steere and this is going to be my first Tortoise. My wife Sandra who I was married for 30 years passed away last December and seeing that my children and grandchildren still live with me I figured it is a good time for me to get a new companion that will be with me to the end of my days. One wife was all I ever needed in this world. There could be no replacement.

So I figure I would get something I always wanted but never got around to get. A Russian Tortoise.

I am the typical person who bought turtles, fish, reptiles at a pet store and once I got them home I than thought of how to take care of them. Always ended terribly!

This time I want to get it right and setup an open tortoise table where I could just sit on my bench alone or with my family members and watch and care for my new companion along with how everyone's day was..

Since it would not be fair to my family to get into another relationship I am going to settle for the next best thing. A Russian Tortoise who will be called Sandy ( covers both male and female ) in honor of my wife. I am going to try to take care of the tortoise just as I did my wife. With tender loving care.

Below is what I have put together so far.

PICTURES OF TORTOISE TABLE

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GENERAL

• I am 59 years old. With proper care the tortoise will outlive me. Will be slowly having the kids, grandkids, and great grandkids who all either live with me or live five minutes drive to help take care of the tortoise. This brings me great happiness that my family lives so close. I must of done something right! With luck I can instill the love I have with tortoises to my family. So when I to pass away there will be someone who can take over for me.
• Veterinarians. If things go sideways I have a number of veterinarians fairly close by my home. Plus TortoiseForum is only a post away! In a sense you all have now become my extended family.

Ocean State Veterinary Specialists
1480 South County Trail
East Greenwich, RI 02818
Tel: (401) 886-OSVS (6787)
Fax: (401) 886-8998

Wickford Veterinary Clinic
7440 Post Road
North Kingstown, RI 02852
Tel: (401) 295-9739
Tel: (401) 886-6787 (emergency)

That out of the way lets talk about the setup.

TABLE

• 48"x72"x16" box. Bottom and sides are 1/2" vinyl veneered. 1/2" plywood floor and 2x construction glued and screwed. ( I selected an open table veneered with vinyl for easy cleaning. 2x construction allows me to stand/jump right in enclosure )
• 2 1/4" interior overhang to prevent tortoise from escaping.
• Bottom of table is 16" off floor. Inside walls are 16" high.
• I have enough room for expansion in the future. Room to create an additional 48"x48"x16" wing.

SUBSTRATE

• 3" Coconut Coir bottom layer. Many places OVER 3" to allow burrowing.
• 1" Orchid Bark top layer to help keep coconut coir moist and humid.
• In winter months the basement is dry. Plan on keeping Coconut Coir very moist to help tortoise hydrate.

LIGHTING

• NOTE: All temperatures are done by placing a rock about the height of a tortoise ( 4 inches off substrate ) and targeting with Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun.
• Basking - 125-Watt Clear BR40 Dimmable Incandescent 120-Volt Infrared Heat Lamp Light Bulb - ( timer: 8am-10pm - temp: 90 - 100 degrees )
• UV - REPTI ZOO T5 HO UVB Reptile Lighting Combo Kit ( 39 watt ) - ( timer: 11am-2pm / 3 to 4 on the meter )
• Heat - Zoo Med Repticare Ceramic Infrared Reptile Heater, 100-watt - ( 4 in total / thermostat controlled set at 75 degrees / enclosure temperature range from 70 - 80 degrees )
• Directly over the tortoise table will have a 4 in 1 Light Socket Splitter E27 Adapter LED Standard Lights Bulbs Converter for Home Office Basement to make the lighting over the table brighter ( 6am-12:30pm ).

HIDES

• Tipped over planter. Berm to 6" height to allow burrowing.
• Humid hide which is 36"x18"x8" - ( Constant 75 +/- degrees temperature / 70 - 100 percent humidity 24/7. )

DIET

• Fix a bowl about as big as the tortoises shell once a day. Add more at noon if tortoise eats everything.
• Plan on giving the tortoise a variety of grocery, pet store and home grown foods.
• Seed Mix: Broadleaf testudo mix - ( Plan to let grow and hand cut and feed. Never going to place tray in enclosure. )
• Mazuri Original 5M21 Tortoise Food
• Zoo Med Natural Grassland Tortoise Food
• Grocery Items: Spring mix, endive, escarole, carrot tops, cilantro, mustard, turnip and collard greens, arugula, cilantro, kale, squash leaves, romaine, green or red leaf lettuce, butter lettuce, water cress, celery tops and much more.
• Will use The Tortoise Table and try to plant more varieties. More different plant food the better.
• HUGE VARIETY OF RECOMMENDED FOODS. EVERY DAY PER WEEK SOMETHING DIFFERENT IN THE MIX.
• NEVER GIVE TORTOISE ANY FRUIT.

SUPPLEMENTS

• Zoo Med Banquet Block Tortoise Food, 5-oz
• Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 Reptile Supplement - Twice a week
• Penn-Plax Bird-Life Natural E Cuttlebones Bird Supplement, 2 count

SOAKING / ( HUMITITY - ADMIT ACHILLES HEEL )

• Since table is open which I know is not recommended I would like to do the following 24/7 and 365 days a year.
• Keep large Humid Hide which is 36"x18"x8" at 70 to100 percent humidity 24/7 and 365 days a year. Sensor is fastened at top by Velcro in the middle/ top of the container.
• Plan on placing the soaking container within enclosure only when soaking. Water level the height where bottom/top shell meets. Tortoise will only be picked up 4 times a day. Never more than 6" off substate in case of a fall. Rest of the time the tortoise will be free to do anything it wants.
• 24 hours/ 7 days a week/ 365 day a year. I work at home and never leave the property. That being the case I plan on soaking the tortoise 2 hours a day. Soakings will occur at 6am, 12pm, 6pm and 12am each for 30 minutes. This with hydrate the tortoise as well help keep the enclosure clean ( poop and pee while soaking ) to extend the time I need to do a total recleaning with new substrate. Will check in on tortoise every couple of hours.
• My regular sleep schedule is 1am to 6am for the last 40 years so will not interfere with my life in the slightest. Two or more hours away from video games, yes almost 60 and still playing games, will probably do me some good. Watching the tortoise while soaking will be so much fun. Probably will be talking to the tortoise the whole time.
• Spray with garden hose the entire surface on "Mist" setting "x" times a week to keep humidity in substrate as high as possible. Testing shows I can keep the temperature at 70 and humidity pegged at 100% percent below substrate using a Zoo Med Digital Combo Reptile Terrarium Thermometer Humidity Gauge sensors touching the bottom vinyl floor under the substrate. Substate is moist, not wet/muddy at touch. Could setup a automatic misting system, like I use to do plant cutting propagating. Something like 5 second mist every hour. This could in theory combat the never ending battle that I am in raising the humidity above substrate a little and continue to keep the below substrate ideal. Automatic would be a plus also. Would have a water source 24/7 all year.
• Normal room humidity is between 30 and 40 during the winter months and 70 degree temperature +/-.
• Normal room humidity is between 60 and 80 during the summer months with 90 degree temperature +/-.

My plan was to get an adult Russian Tortoise but to my dismay all the breeders I have found only have hatchlings. I did find a breeder who sells juvenile Russian Tortoises so leaning on purchasing the tortoise from that breeder. I know the younger the tortoise the less mistakes you can make. Hesitant to get a hatchling due to my humidity limitations.

MISCELLANEOUS

• Unfortunately the tortoise will need to be always kept in enclosure. We have dogs, cats, fruit trees we spray, lawn that we fertilize and especially very young great grandchildren that could drop, kick or step on tortoise. Basement is now off limits to all pets and young children or anyone else who does not know the rules. Rule number one is DO NOT PICK UP TORTOISE. And those that do must wash hands before and after only when soaking.
• Everything I need is one step away from my Tortoise table. No human area used for tortoise stuff.
• Utility sink right next to tortoise table so I can have cold or hot water.
• Garden hose with "Mist" setting attached to sink so warm water can be used to spray entire table "x" times a week.
• New refrigerator right next to tortoise table to store tortoise food.
• Table / Workbench right next to tortoise table to use for tortoise stuff like indoor planting, preparing food and anything else that comes up.
• 4 - Zoo Med Digital Combo Reptile Terrarium Thermometer Humidity Gauge spread around Tortoise table.
• Mini Non-Contact Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun for quick spot checks.
• Solarmeter Model 6.5R UV Index Meter Reptile Accessory, Green for quick spot checks.
• Generator if power goes out for a long period of time at a bad time of year. Colder months.

DAILY ROUTINE

• 6am-6:30am = soak / inspect enclosure ( get rid of old food, poop ) / change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise near fresh food.
• 12pm-12:30pm = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise under basking lamp.
• 6pm-6:30pm = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise under basking lamp.
• 12am-12:30am = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise near remaining food.
• 12:30am = Lights out over table ( simulate dusk since other lights are still on in room ).
• 1am = Lights out in whole room. Owner and Tortoise time to sleep.

MONTHLY ROUTINE

• Measure and Weigh tortoise and document on this post each month. This way I have a record and forum members can observe my efforts and let me know if they notice something I overlooked. Thirty years as a computer programmer has taught me the more eyes on a project the better the project turns out.

So sorry for such a long post. I am looking forward to many years here on TortoiseForum. Thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to read this post. Look forward to comments, suggestions and concerns.

I live near you. Contact me me [email protected]. (Mike)