Shopping list for a newbie

[horsefeildnovice]

Hi all my name is matt and I am after three years of research finally gonna commit to a tort ( I am so so excited) but want to do it right.
A lot of the other websites I have visited all suggest lists with different things included so I was just wondering what do you guys feel are absolutely must haves to start of

I am hopefully getting a horsefeilds by the way

Thanks

 

[JoesMum]

Hello and welcome

You say you've done 3 years of research which is great. This is going to be a long post, sorry, but stick with me

Have you read the TFO guides to caring for a Russian (Horsfield)?. They're written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some vets and breeders too.

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

And if you're thinking of getting a baby then
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/

All the information you need is in these threads. Feel free to ask us before you buy specific equipment that you've found and we can stop you making expensive mistakes.

Not knowing where you live makes giving recommendations hard as availability varies around the world.

You need to consider:

- The enclosure: Don't buy a pet store tortoise table as they're too small. A viv is only suitable for small torts. Younger torts need a closed chamber. A minimum floor space of 4'x8' is needed for all but the smallest torts.

- A soil type substrate that can be moistened such as coco coir or orchid bark. No white bits or stones that your tort may be tempted to eat (there is a brand sold for torts like this )

- A terracotta plant saucer for water and a piece of flat rock or slate for food. Don't buy pet store reptile bowls; they're not suitable - not even the ramped ones.

- A hide, plants and other decor

- UVB. Don't but a compact CFL bulb as they cause eye problems in torts. Indoors a long tube bulb fitting is safe or combine it with the basking bulb by buying a single Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB)

- Basking bulb. Either a plain reflector type or a MVB that also gives out UVB. You must not use a thermostat or dimmer with a basking bulb/MVB.

- Lamp holders for both UVB and Basking sources. Not clamp fittings; they're not safe. Hang the basking lamp fitting from a lamp stand.

- Timers for the above lamps so they go on and off at the same time each day.

- If your home drops below 65F (many don't) at night then you will also need a Ceramic Heat Emitter with a thermostat (stand and ceramic lamp holder too)

- A good digital thermometer (temperature gun type is best - they're inexpensive from Amazon and hardware stores) and a probe-type hygrometer for measuring humidity in the enclosure. The type that stick to the enclosure wall are not accurate enough.

And finally, don't get talked into buying two tortoises. They're not social, they're solitary, and they fight nasty!

 

[horsefeildnovice]

Sorry I live in the UK do the mercury vapour bulbs do a good enough job because the guy I am buying the tort from says that it is best to get the two different bulbs

Oh and thank you for your reply very helpful

 

[JoesMum]

I'm in Kent in the UK too.

Opinions are divided on MVB. Many people use them successfully, but they are expensive and they do need replacing as the UVB output drops off after about 6 months.

The UVB output of the tubes is much more prolonged and you can get away with changing it annually.

 

[horsefeildnovice]

OK thank you

 

[horsefeildnovice]

The tort itself is one year old does it therefore require a viv to start with or will it be OK in a table

 

[JoesMum]

The tort itself is one year old does it therefore require a viv to start with or will it be OK in a table

It needs a closed chamber - not necessarily a viv, but a viv is fine. Just make sure it's big enough. See the threads above.

 

[horsefeildnovice]

Sorry for jumping around species a but but are box turtles easier to care for than Russian

 

[JoesMum]

Sorry for jumping around species a but but are box turtles easier to care for than Russian

The Testudo : Russians, Greeks and Hermann's are regarded as the easiest species to care for and as making good first tortoises.

Box turtles require water to swim in - they're turtles not tortoises - as well as dry enclosure so you're adding another level of complication! So no they're definitely not easier to care for.

 

[Mr Buster]

One thing about getting a box turtle or other turtles that require water is the diet. Typically water turtles require a diet that is going to be way more specialized than a Russian. The reason I went against box turtles is because I don't want to buy food that is going to dictate I become a slave every week to petunsmart. I already live with that reality after having toads that you have to feed live crickets and worms to.

So when you make a decision also factor in diet.

 

[Mr Buster]

Also, remember that a aquatic turtle requires a tank and special equipment for the tanks and water substrates etc. Do you like cleaning fish tanks, how about a large fish tank ? Consider the liability of water and carpets. That is the other big question that keeps me away from turtles with flippers.

 

[horsefeildnovice]

OK so for a horsefeilds do I definatly need a thermostat

 

[JoesMum]

You need a thermostat if you use a Ceramic Heat Emitter. The species doesn't matter. You need a CHE if temperatures are likely to drop below 65F/17C at night.

You must not use a thermostat with the basking lamp. The temperature under that is controlled by its height above the substrate and it must be on continuously for 12-14 hours.

 

[Tom]

OK so for a horsefeilds do I definatly need a thermostat

No. How cold does your house get at night? If its much lower than 18C, then you will need a thermostat and a CHE to keep the nights just a little warmer. If your house stays above 18C, then you do not need a thermostat and CHE.

You would only need a basking lamp and a UV tube set on the same timer to be on for 12-14 hours a day to simulate the sun and give the tortoise a place to warm up. If you want to get fancy you can use two timers and set the UV tube to only come on for 8-10 hours mid day to simulate sunrise and sunset, but that is not a requirement.

 

[horsefeildnovice]

OK so gotbmy viv at mo it is 31. Under lamp and about 21 the other end is that OK

 

[Tom]

- Basking bulb. Either a plain reflector type or a MVB that also gives out UVB. You must not use a thermostat or dimmer with a basking bulb/MVB.

I have one little point of contention in an otherwise lovely and perfect post.

It is fine to use a dimmer switch (rheostat) with a regular incandescent basking bulb. Many people find this an easier way to get the correct basking temp under their bulb, rather than raising and lowering the fixture or changing to a different wattage bulb.

You are absolutely correct that rheostats cannot be used with MVBs because those require a constant voltage/wattage of the correct level to work properly.

Love and smilely's to you.

 

[Tom]

OK so gotbmy viv at mo it is 31. Under lamp and about 21 the other end is that OK

What? I can't understand what you are asking here. Please use sentences and punctuation.

 

[JoesMum]

Love and smilely's to you.

I nearly choked on my very British cup of tea there!

Not sure I can cope this new cuddly @Tom

Hugs and smilies

 

[JoesMum]

OK so gotbmy viv at mo it is 31. Under lamp and about 21 the other end is that OK

If I translate correctly, you have 31C under the basking lamp. You need to lower it slightly towards the substrate. It needs to be 35C directly underneath.

 

[horsefeildnovice]

If I translate correctly, you have 31C under the basking lamp. You need to lower it slightly towards the substrate. It needs to be 35C directly underneath.

Yep that is correct and thank you I will lower the heat lamp