Edward linked it for you, and this one might help too:
tortoiseforum.org
For simplicity, you can simply use 2x4s everywhere.
Hi, I’m about to embark on making this and I read through about 7 pages of the replies but I couldn’t find out how tall should I make the night box for my sulcata (apologies if I missed it)?I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
View attachment 291639
Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
View attachment 291640
View attachment 291641
Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
View attachment 291642
Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
View attachment 291643
This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
Questions and conversation are welcome!
For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
Double Door Night Box
As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
Mine is 2x4x4 sitting on the insulated floor and adding the insulated roof makes it appear taller but the inside of the box is 2’ tall
Thanks and is that the inside or outside height (2’)?
yes this might help. I made a collage of my building it https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZP8LHTVwq/
I make the outside walls 24 inches tall. This gives me the best use of the plywood sheets. The inside height ends up being around 21 inches.
My brain couldn’t build mine with inside walls and outside walls different. I built panels and assembled them. Idk how long mine will last but when I make my next one I’m gonna strain my brain and try and figure it out. LOL
Thank you! I build everything on a computer app first so that I can workout the building process. I can’t believe how many times it’s helped me identify mistakes before I start building everything in real life!! LOL…. And it helps me not over/under purchase supplies. To your point, I’d like to build a size with the least amount of cuts and least amount of off-cuts - so the outside being 24” makes that easier for sure.
I think this all depends on how you build it, and what your building background is. Your way is probably the more conventional and sensible way. My way is just self taught over many iterations, with no construction background, and no help from anyone knowledgable of such things. When I make a new box, I build the top first, and then make everything fit inside that with enough clearance to account for wood warping, mistakes, and the power cord. Then I built the bottom, taking in to account the thickness of the plywood walls and insulation, and then I attach the sides to the bottom. From there I frame it all, sealing all along the way, install the insulation, and finish by attaching the inside walls. I measure and cut as I go, custom fitting and cutting each piece for as close to a perfect fit as I can reasonably get. It takes me about 30 hours start to finish. I'm sure someone with more skills and knowledge could get it done in half that time.
Hi I wanted to know the exact name or type of the 21" radient heat panel you used in the photoI like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
View attachment 291639
Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
View attachment 291640
View attachment 291641
Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
View attachment 291642
Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
View attachment 291643
This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
Questions and conversation are welcome!
For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
Double Door Night Box
As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
That is a Vivarium Electronics model sold by Reptile Basics. That is the old style with the white "lens". Now they are all black and look a little different, but still work great.
I recommend a 4x4x2 foot box as the smallest for any tortoise. See it here:
tortoiseforum.org
Is a CHE enough in terms of heating elements for a smaller tortoise?I recommend a 4x4x2 foot box as the smallest for any tortoise. See it here:
The Best Way To Raise Any Temperate Species Of Tortoise
I chose the title of this care sheet very carefully. Are there other ways to raise babies and care for adults? Yes. Yes there are, but those ways are not as good. What follows is the BEST way, according to 30 years of research and experimentation with hundreds of babies of many species. What is...
Or here:
View attachment 388582
Only your thermometer can answer that. I don't use CHEs in this application, so it's difficult to even guess. I use mini radiant oil heaters to maintain the ambient temp where I want it, and then I use an incandescent flood bulb for basking and raising ambient in inclement weather. I don't use the basking bulb at all when the weather is sunny and getting over 21C.
Thanks!
