Single Tortoise Night Box

[Sagewomyn]

I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!

The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.

In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.

Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
View attachment 291639

Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
View attachment 291640

View attachment 291641

Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
View attachment 291642

Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
View attachment 291643

This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.

Questions and conversation are welcome!

For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:

Double Door Night Box

As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...

tortoiseforum.org

Looks great. I have to get this done asap.
Thank you so much and I might ask more questions now and then if you don't mind.

 

[Tom]

Looks great. I have to get this done asap.
Thank you so much and I might ask more questions now and then if you don't mind.

Yes please. That's why we are here!

 

[Sagewomyn]

I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!

The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.

In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.

Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
View attachment 291639

Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
View attachment 291640

View attachment 291641

Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
View attachment 291642

Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
View attachment 291643

This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.

Questions and conversation are welcome!

For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:

Double Door Night Box

As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...

tortoiseforum.org

Tom,
Do they continue to go outside to eat even when the temperature 🌡 drops into the 20's?
Shannon

 

[jeannettep]

Yes, I caulked and sealed each seam. I dont have door flaps, but I wouldnt think that would affect the temperature throughout the night. Im planning on adding them on soon, I also dont have the weather stripping along the top, I'm planning on adding that soon too. Hopefully those two things will help, thanks for your help!

I added a Radiant barrier to help with keeping the heat in. It looks like silver bubble wrap and I put it between the lid & the heat panel and on the bottom, sides, outside. It will cause a problem with using wifi or anything to connect inside. The other thing I found was those survival tarps. Silver on one side and when it gets really cold I would drape & tuck it around the box. I also added a greenhouse that connected to the box. I hung a coop heater inside. The torts loved it! When winter was over, I removed the greenhouse & it looked like a tropical wonderland. The only time I've been able to grow plants! Oh I also added 2 inch foam sheets on all sides, inside & out. So my walls were over 5 inches thick using 1 inch plywood.

Tom is right, gotta find where heat is leaking out. Since our move, when it finally gets a little cooler here the 1st thing I have to do is caulk! Then reconfigure my foam insulation. Set up my solar farm! I currently only have half my tort area on solar & not full winter yet. Ok so idk much about electricity. I just plug it in & if I pop a breaker I take something off. But I've learned a lot on setting up solar for my torts. I'm sure what I have would work better had I not put the panels in at the wrong angle. So goes the when it's cooler to do list...

So yes any little gap can compromise the heat. I found $20 survival tarps awesome. Silver on the inside for winter, Silver on the outside for summer if it get too hot.

 

[jeannettep]

L

I added a Radiant barrier to help with keeping the heat in. It looks like silver bubble wrap and I put it between the lid & the heat panel and on the bottom, sides, outside. It will cause a problem with using wifi or anything to connect inside. The other thing I found was those survival tarps. Silver on one side and when it gets really cold I would drape & tuck it around the box. I also added a greenhouse that connected to the box. I hung a coop heater inside. The torts loved it! When winter was over, I removed the greenhouse & it looked like a tropical wonderland. The only time I've been able to grow plants! Oh I also added 2 inch foam sheets on all sides, inside & out. So my walls were over 5 inches thick using 1 inch plywood.

Tom is right, gotta find where heat is leaking out. Since our move, when it finally gets a little cooler here the 1st thing I have to do is caulk! Then reconfigure my foam insulation. Set up my solar farm! I currently only have half my tort area on solar & not full winter yet. Ok so idk much about electricity. I just plug it in & if I pop a breaker I take something off. But I've learned a lot on setting up solar for my torts. I'm sure what I have would work better had I not put the panels in at the wrong angle. So goes the when it's cooler to do list...

So yes any little gap can compromise the heat. I found $20 survival tarps awesome. Silver on the inside for winter, Silver on the outside for summer if it get too hot.

Let me add the coop heater was a flat Radiant panel & it has to be away from the torts touch. I can put my hand on it & doesn't burn, but I wouldnt trust it & an inkbird or such temp controller is important. They are low in energy consumption. I also had to make do with what I could find cause kanes & the Radiant heat panel everyone talks about I was on the backorder list. Those would be better, but I was in a pinch.

 

[Tom]

Tom,
Do they continue to go outside to eat even when the temperature 🌡 drops into the 20's?
Shannon

They might try, but they shouldn't be allowed to.

 

[LeoTheWaywardTortoise]

I’m sure these are dumb questions, but here they are: My Kane mat has a rheostat. If I plug it into a thermostat along with a RHP, will the thermostat override the rheostat, or do I need to purchase a new heat mat?

Also, if my current mat will work with the thermostat, would I leave the heat mat on at its highest setting?

Thanks in advance for your help and for sharing all your night box designs, @Tom .

 

[Tom]

I’m sure these are dumb questions, but here they are: My Kane mat has a rheostat. If I plug it into a thermostat along with a RHP, will the thermostat override the rheostat, or do I need to purchase a new heat mat?

Also, if my current mat will work with the thermostat, would I leave the heat mat on at its highest setting?

Thanks in advance for your help and for sharing all your night box designs, @Tom .

You answered your first question with your second question.

You didn't need the rheostat. You just spent a little more money than you needed to, but that is okay and it will work just fine. I would turn the rheostat most of the way up and then let the thermostat control it. Having the rheostat can actually work as a secondary safety in case your thermostat ever goes bad and sticks on. Your Kane mat also has built-in redundant safeties, so all should be very safe.

Not dumb questions. Not at all.

 

[LeoTheWaywardTortoise]

You answered your first question with your second question.

You didn't need the rheostat. You just spent a little more money than you needed to, but that is okay and it will work just fine. I would turn the rheostat most of the way up and then let the thermostat control it. Having the rheostat can actually work as a secondary safety in case your thermostat ever goes bad and sticks on. Your Kane mat also has built-in redundant safeties, so all should be very safe.

Not dumb questions. Not at all.

Thanks, Tom. Appreciate the info, and the kind words.

 

[Wookie]

I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!

The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.

In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.

Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
View attachment 291639

Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
View attachment 291640

View attachment 291641

Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
View attachment 291642

Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
View attachment 291643

This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.

Questions and conversation are welcome!

For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:

Double Door Night Box

As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...

tortoiseforum.org

Hi @Tom
We are looking at following this design for a night box of our own for our Horsefield tortoise. We were just wondering what you used for light and heating? We've read in some of your posts about using an incandescent flood bulb to bask and an ambient heater to maintain a comfortable temperature. The photos with all your electrical equipment, we weren't sure what was your light and heat source? If you have any recommendations for either bulbs or heaters. Thank you 😊

 

[Tom]

Hi @Tom
We are looking at following this design for a night box of our own for our Horsefield tortoise. We were just wondering what you used for light and heating? We've read in some of your posts about using an incandescent flood bulb to bask and an ambient heater to maintain a comfortable temperature. The photos with all your electrical equipment, we weren't sure what was your light and heat source? If you have any recommendations for either bulbs or heaters. Thank you 😊

I use a mini radiant oil heater set on a reptile thermostat to maintain ambient temps where I want them. Ambient doesn't need to be all that warm, I just use this to keep things from getting too cool over night. I set this to around 65F for most of the year, but drop it down gradually as I prepare for brumation.

Then during the day, if the weather isn't warm and sunny, I use a 65 watt regular incandescent flood bulb from the hardware store for basking. This bulb is set on a timer, and it usually warms up the entire box during the day as long as your box is properly sealed and insulated with a small door. You may need more or less wattage depending on several factors and what your thermometers tell you. If its warm and sunny, then I shut off the basking bulb because the tortoise can come out and warm up in the sun. In my climate, the basking bulb is only used during parts of spring and fall. The temperate tortoises brumate in winter and certainly don't need any additional heat during my hot summers. The heat lamp just gets them through spring cold spells after they are already up and eating after brumation, and in the fall I use the heat lamp to continue keeping them warm through the end of November while I ensure their GI tract is empty for brumation.

 

[Wookie]

I use a mini radiant oil heater set on a reptile thermostat to maintain ambient temps where I want them. Ambient doesn't need to be all that warm, I just use this to keep things from getting too cool over night. I set this to around 65F for most of the year, but drop it down gradually as I prepare for brumation.

Then during the day, if the weather isn't warm and sunny, I use a 65 watt regular incandescent flood bulb from the hardware store for basking. This bulb is set on a timer, and it usually warms up the entire box during the day as long as your box is properly sealed and insulated with a small door. You may need more or less wattage depending on several factors and what your thermometers tell you. If its warm and sunny, then I shut off the basking bulb because the tortoise can come out and warm up in the sun. In my climate, the basking bulb is only used during parts of spring and fall. The temperate tortoises brumate in winter and certainly don't need any additional heat during my hot summers. The heat lamp just gets them through spring cold spells after they are already up and eating after brumation, and in the fall I use the heat lamp to continue keeping them warm through the end of November while I ensure their GI tract is empty for brumation.

Thank you Tom this is all really helpful and we really appreciate you taking the time to answer our questions. We live in the UK so I imagine we get much colder weather than where you are!
I've been looking at a radiant heat panel that has a built in thermostat and can be controlled from our phones for precise control of temperatures. I'll post screenshots of it, we would really appreciate your opinion on if you think it would be suitable enough for ambient heat before we buy as we have spent a lot of money on unnecessary or wrong equipment ect that we thought we needed from advice given by the reptile shop that we got our little tort from. Thanks again for sharing such useful information! We just want Wookie to be happy and healthy as possible! Will definitely be brumating him this year as nothing we do seems to keep him up and from reading your post on it I'm now much more confident with the whole idea and realise its what he wants and needs!

 

[Tom]

Thank you Tom this is all really helpful and we really appreciate you taking the time to answer our questions. We live in the UK so I imagine we get much colder weather than where you are!
I've been looking at a radiant heat panel that has a built in thermostat and can be controlled from our phones for precise control of temperatures. I'll post screenshots of it, we would really appreciate your opinion on if you think it would be suitable enough for ambient heat before we buy as we have spent a lot of money on unnecessary or wrong equipment ect that we thought we needed from advice given by the reptile shop that we got our little tort from. Thanks again for sharing such useful information! We just want Wookie to be happy and healthy as possible! Will definitely be brumating him this year as nothing we do seems to keep him up and from reading your post on it I'm now much more confident with the whole idea and realise its what he wants and needs!

We don't use that type over here. It says its 1000 watts. The ones we use are for reptiles and typically use 80 or 100 watts.

It seems like that could work if you can control it, BUT...
1. The thermostat built in to those type of household space heaters are usually not nearly consistent enough for our purposes. I got 15-20 degree temp swings all night when I tried. You need a reptile thermostat.
2. I've been unable to use a reptile thermostat on that type of computer controlled heater. When the thermostat shuts the power off, the heater would reset to factory settings, which were all wrong for a tortoise enclosure. Maybe that one would retain its memory when the power is off for hours at time every day? I don't know.
3. While that one should certainly be powerful enough, it won't be very efficient or cost effective. The advantage of using the "radiant oil heaters" is that oil reservoir. They typically run 400, 600, or 700 watts, depending on which on you get, but while they are "on", they are heating up that oil. When the temperature gets up to the desired set point, the thermostat will kick the heater off, but that hot oil will continue radiating heat for a long time after with no further electricity usage until the temperature drops and the thermostat kicks it on again. In my well insulated boxes, the radiant oil heaters only come on a few times per night, even when the outside temperatures are near freezing.

 

[Snubeazy]

This response has been long overdue, but I can't thank you enough, Tom, for how much value you provide to us turtle people within this forum. I hope some of these images of my build over Tom's night box blueprint can be of some use to you folks.

I really lucked out since my build lined up with my family tearing down the old tool shed to rebuild from scratch due to mold/rot which gave me loads of scrap to work with. I made a mini-me version of the new tool shed.

Wondering if some of you can help shed some light on some issues of mine:

1) I went with the Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat for its Remote Monitoring capabilities. I only managed to sync my Inkbird mobile app for only a few minutes before it inevitably disconnects. I found out that its due to me needing to split my router's 2G & 5G frequencies since the thermostat only runs on 2G. I phoned Charter Spectrum support to ask how I can do that, but they said I won't be able to accomplish this with their router. Hoping to hear from someone who owns this thermostat that can help. Do you keep your thermostat plugged in at all times or do you unplug when the day is nice? Does unplugging disconnect you from the app until you plug back in?... will you have to manually sync up again?

2) I still need to install a shelf & water tubs + door liner; What do you folks use for liner? Open to mcgyver-esk alternatives.

3) I sorta bored out a trench that channels the extension cord from the outside-in to prevent compromising the weather strip and its job. I've wanted to add a secondary extension cord to opt for a 100w ceramic bulb heating alternative on days that don't require the big boy or when my little man is likely to drop the bridge bomb to romp around on chilly days. I have refrained from doing so since the weather stripping seems to have come undone within that corner and I'm afraid of compromising the weather stripping more; Do I have reason to worry about this? I don't think Tom details this part of weather stripping+cord. I'd like to hear from the myth himself.

4) I love the drawbridge door concept since it provides the little man a self-serve exit and entrance when he needs a break from indoors. Looking retrospectively on my rig, I wish I'd of invested in a radiator heater with a built-in thermostat since I'm scared straight from utilizing the latch I installed to lock him in when it rains; I'm afraid of waking up to tort-rinds from not having a secondary thermostat to fall back on. Being without liner has been a dilemma during times when he huffs & puffs that door smack wide open during these abnormally colder/rain-ier CA days causing the heater to fruitlessly run until someone realizes. Are these rational worries? Solutions?

Do you keep your radiator heater running during chilly days while the drawbridge is open? How well does the liner insulate in this scenario?

5) I can't imagine how much dirt tortoises consume; I recently came across a Kamp Kenan Youtube video where he gives his torts some sort of supplementation for this. thoughts?

bless ur tort soul

I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!

The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.

In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.

Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
View attachment 291639

Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
View attachment 291640

View attachment 291641

Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
View attachment 291642

Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
View attachment 291643

This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.

Questions and conversation are welcome!

For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:

Double Door Night Box

As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...

tortoiseforum.org

 

[Tom]

View attachment 354457View attachment 354458View attachment 354459View attachment 354462View attachment 354463View attachment 354464View attachment 354465View attachment 354466View attachment 354467View attachment 354468View attachment 354469View attachment 354470View attachment 354471View attachment 354473
This response has been long overdue, but I can't thank you enough, Tom, for how much value you provide to us turtle people within this forum. I hope some of these images of my build over Tom's night box blueprint can be of some use to you folks.

I really lucked out since my build lined up with my family tearing down the old tool shed to rebuild from scratch due to mold/rot which gave me loads of scrap to work with. I made a mini-me version of the new tool shed.

Wondering if some of you can help shed some light on some issues of mine:

1) I went with the Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat for its Remote Monitoring capabilities. I only managed to sync my Inkbird mobile app for only a few minutes before it inevitably disconnects. I found out that its due to me needing to split my router's 2G & 5G frequencies since the thermostat only runs on 2G. I phoned Charter Spectrum support to ask how I can do that, but they said I won't be able to accomplish this with their router. Hoping to hear from someone who owns this thermostat that can help. Do you keep your thermostat plugged in at all times or do you unplug when the day is nice? Does unplugging disconnect you from the app until you plug back in?... will you have to manually sync up again?

2) I still need to install a shelf & water tubs + door liner; What do you folks use for liner? Open to mcgyver-esk alternatives.

3) I sorta bored out a trench that channels the extension cord from the outside-in to prevent compromising the weather strip and its job. I've wanted to add a secondary extension cord to opt for a 100w ceramic bulb heating alternative on days that don't require the big boy or when my little man is likely to drop the bridge bomb to romp around on chilly days. I have refrained from doing so since the weather stripping seems to have come undone within that corner and I'm afraid of compromising the weather stripping more; Do I have reason to worry about this? I don't think Tom details this part of weather stripping+cord. I'd like to hear from the myth himself.

4) I love the drawbridge door concept since it provides the little man a self-serve exit and entrance when he needs a break from indoors. Looking retrospectively on my rig, I wish I'd of invested in a radiator heater with a built-in thermostat since I'm scared straight from utilizing the latch I installed to lock him in when it rains; I'm afraid of waking up to tort-rinds from not having a secondary thermostat to fall back on. Being without liner has been a dilemma during times when he huffs & puffs that door smack wide open during these abnormally colder/rain-ier CA days causing the heater to fruitlessly run until someone realizes. Are these rational worries? Solutions?

Do you keep your radiator heater running during chilly days while the drawbridge is open? How well does the liner insulate in this scenario?

5) I can't imagine how much dirt tortoises consume; I recently came across a Kamp Kenan Youtube video where he gives his torts some sort of supplementation for this. thoughts?

bless ur tort soul

1. Get a regular Inkbird. Set it, check it once in a while, and let it do its work. 80 in spring and fall when we have warm days, 86 in winter, 70 when we have those 100+ days all summer long, or let him burrow in summer and just unplug the box.

2. Clear vinyl freezer door flaps. 8 inches wide. Over lap them about an inch. Hang them about 1/8 - 1/4 inch off the floor.

3. I show how to bring the cord in, with drip loops and all, in the first post of this thread. Make a channel to fit the cord, put the weather stripping over the cord, and the weight of the lid will hold it down. You can double up the weather stripping over this area for added security. You don't need a second cord. One cord will do it all. You can't use a CHE over larger tortoises. It will burn their carapace. If the temp in the box is warm enough, the heater won't come on. If the temp is too cool, the neater needs to come on. Weather outside is irrelevant. Keep the box warm for the tortoise, and he'll use it as needed.

4. All radiant oil heaters come with a built-in thermostat, but they don't hold a steady temp. You'll get temp swings of 15-20 degrees all night. Try it without the tortoise in there. Use the Inkbird type of thermostat to control it. You can run more than one thermostat in series for extra insurance in case one sticks on. What I do is set my Inkbird type thermostat with the built-in one turned all the way up. Once temps stabilize over a couple of days, I go in and turn the built-in thermostat down until it clicks off, and then turn it back up a little bit past where it turns back on, and then mark that spot on the dial and heater with a sharpie. If my Inkbird type malfunctions, the built in will eventually cut the heater off long before reaching lethal levels. Redundant safety.

Yes. Leave the heater to do its job 24/7. Only shut it off in summer if the tortoise is using a burrow at night instead of its box. The door flaps hold heat in just fine.

5. Dirt consumption? No. No they don't. None of my sulcatas, or any other species, eat dirt. Some tortoises will sometimes eat rocks or pebbles if they are fed the wrong foods, like grocery store produce with no amendments. MinerAll can help reduce this, but better to correct the diet too. KK is a terrible place to get tortoise advice. He means well, but has little idea about what he's doing. He learned from the same wrong sources that everyone else learns from.

 

[vladimir]

1) I went with the Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat for its Remote Monitoring capabilities. I only managed to sync my Inkbird mobile app for only a few minutes before it inevitably disconnects. I found out that its due to me needing to split my router's 2G & 5G frequencies since the thermostat only runs on 2G. I phoned Charter Spectrum support to ask how I can do that, but they said I won't be able to accomplish this with their router. Hoping to hear from someone who owns this thermostat that can help. Do you keep your thermostat plugged in at all times or do you unplug when the day is nice? Does unplugging disconnect you from the app until you plug back in?... will you have to manually sync up again?

For the 2.4Ghz Inkbird Wifi devices to work properly, they seem to need to be on a dedicated 2.4Ghz wireless network. I run two SSIDs, one for my standard network (which includes 2.4ghz and 5ghz devices) and one for 2.4Ghz devices only. The inkbird devices are connected to the 2.4Ghz only SSID.

Your ISP's hardware may not allow you to configure it that way though.

 

[Wookie]

I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!

The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.

In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.

Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
View attachment 291639

Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
View attachment 291640

View attachment 291641

Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
View attachment 291642

Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
View attachment 291643

This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.

Questions and conversation are welcome!

For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:

Double Door Night Box

As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...

tortoiseforum.org

Hi there Tom,
In the process of planning our own box based on this design. I'm just wondering if the 1.5"/2" insulation you use will be sufficient for our climate? We live in the UK and aren't sure whether to increase the depth of insulation.
Thank you

 

[Tom]

Hi there Tom,
In the process of planning our own box based on this design. I'm just wondering if the 1.5"/2" insulation you use will be sufficient for our climate? We live in the UK and aren't sure whether to increase the depth of insulation.
Thank you

These boxes are designed to house a tortoise overnight to protect from cold temps in a generally warm sunny climate. They are not suitable for full time housing in a cold overcast climate like the UK. You need something much larger with the proper heating and lighting for that.

Having said that, these boxes maintain 80 degrees when overnight temps drop into the 20 here in winter. They must be sealed with caulking at each step in the build, along with the 1.5 inch insulation. Keep the door as small as you can for the species you are working with. Don't forget the weather stripping around the top.

 

[Wookie]

These boxes are designed to house a tortoise overnight to protect from cold temps in a generally warm sunny climate. They are not suitable for full time housing in a cold overcast climate like the UK. You need something much larger with the proper heating and lighting for that.

Having said that, these boxes maintain 80 degrees when overnight temps drop into the 20 here in winter. They must be sealed with caulking at each step in the build, along with the 1.5 inch insulation. Keep the door as small as you can for the species you are working with. Don't forget the weather stripping around the top.

Thank you Tom,
This will be used as a night box in our warmer months, linked to a large secure outdoor enclosure that already exists for him. We plan to put him into brumation during the colder months following your guide.

 

[Tom]

Thank you Tom,
This will be used as a night box in our warmer months, linked to a large secure outdoor enclosure that already exists for him. We plan to put him into brumation during the colder months following your guide.

Oh that will work great then! With the addition of a heat lamp, you will be able to create the necessary conditions to go into and come out of brumation, regardless of the weather outside.

I show more of what I am talking about here in this thread:

The Best Way To Raise Any Temperate Species Of Tortoise

I chose the title of this care sheet very carefully. Are there other ways to raise babies and care for adults? Yes. Yes there are, but those ways are not as good. What follows is the BEST way, according to 30 years of research and experimentation with hundreds of babies of many species. What is...

tortoiseforum.org