Squirt’s upgrade

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Hey folks!👋🏻
I think I’ve found someone who can make Squirt a new wooden hide, my question is, is plywood safe? Their items are listed as pet safe plywood. I know the wood would rot/swell in her high humidity requirements, so I planned to seal it using this special 0 VOC wood varnish I found, I’m asking the seller if they can make the main part of the hide with similar corners to some of the images I’ve included down below, in the hopes of her not directly coming into contact with the small metal pin/screws I’ve seen the seller use to construct some of their other designs, as I don’t know what metal they are. Which leads to my next question, for the roof that will slot on top, I think they might need to use the pins/screws, will that be ok seeing as she won’t be able to reach that part? If they have to use them for the whole thing am I being a bit too paranoid about that as long as the wood is sealed?
I’m wanting the top to act as a little garden section she won’t be able to destroy😂the idea being that’ll be enough weight to stop her bumping it out of place lol.

I’ve attached some pictures to give you guys a better idea of what I’m thinking, including the hide that inspired the roof idea and that varnish I was going to be using if anyone has any opinions on that?😊we’ll definitely be looking at some simpler designs as another shady area for her to choose from, but with this being her next main hide, we’d want it to be as robust as possible👍🏻Does this all seem a feasible&safe option?

 

[Maggie3fan]

The use of the word "hide" is indicative", of some place safe and comfortable...
lol...that poop in Logan's food dish tells me what he thought of breakfast...too funny. Anyhow, Logan was 2 years old when I got him and his enclosure is large and had several hides...one almost like that box you're planning on...see how the entrance is? It took him 1 year to grow out of that hide...now he chose the half log. They want a hide that is small, and safe because they are extremely vulnerable asleep...at 2 years in his greenhouse there are 4 very different hides, most made from rocks and driftwood...Logan chooses his hides each one small and dark and safe...again I personally think that hide is too open...

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

The use of the word "hide" is indicative", of some place safe and comfortable...View attachment 365864
lol...that poop in Logan's food dish tells me what he thought of breakfast...too funny. Anyhow, Logan was 2 years old when I got him and his enclosure is large and had several hides...one almost like that box you're planning on...see how the entrance is? It took him 1 year to grow out of that hide...now he chose the half log. They want a hide that is small, and safe because they are extremely vulnerable asleep...at 2 years in his greenhouse there are 4 very different hides, most made from rocks and driftwood...Logan chooses his hides each one small and dark and safe...again I personally think that hide is too open...View attachment 365865

Lol Logan is such a cutie omg!❤️Yeah I’m hoping eventually I’ll be able to offer her a few different style hidey areas😊for now I’m focused on getting her at lest one good main one made, I hear what you’re saying about it being too open, but it’s all designed with squirts measurements in mind so she could comfortably fit and it have a little bit of growing room for her😊she’s a lot bigger than your little Logan, will the wood be safe provided I seal it with the special varnish?

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Did anyone get a chance to have a quick look at those smart meter sensors?😊

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I’ve also had a nifty idea to buy some of this stuff, take some pliers to make a really small tight loop at the end to thread the thermostat/combometer probes through, and use it in a way to secure the probs away from the wall, it should give us some playing room to bend the probes into the best position, we’d essentially be threading it threw the screw holes we make, along with the probe wire wrapped around, high enough for her not to reach but low enough for us to get accurate ground temps, keeping them secure in the air for readings, good idea or?😊

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Lol Logan is such a cutie omg!❤️Yeah I’m hoping eventually I’ll be able to offer her a few different style hidey areas😊for now I’m focused on getting her at lest one good main one made, I hear what you’re saying about it being too open, but it’s all designed with squirts measurements in mind so she could comfortably fit and it have a little bit of growing room for her😊she’s a lot bigger than your little Logan, will the wood be safe provided I seal it with the special varnish?

It was also suggested to potentially add another archway for her but I worried that would also make it feel too open? She’s quite happy used her current one that has just one large opening, idk I guess I could always get it made with the one entrance then we cut it ourselves in the future if we think she’d benefit from another one😊

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

How’s everyone liking my life sized floor plan?🤣

We’ve pretty much ordered everything now! Barring a light bracket, last minute bulbs once we work out the watts on the day and the smartmeter we’ll order a few days before, pretty much everything is accounted for, Which is exciting!😁
I just need to work out how much plywood I need to make these hides for her now, so that’s tonight’s task, definitely want them all built and prepared for when the viv is up and running😊I may have to forego it being marine grade and go for a hardwood plywood due to the cost, I’m confident with the resin seal they’ll hold up just as well, looking forward to showing you guys how they go, fingers crossed they work out well!🤞🏻
Hope everyone is doing good😊

Oh and yes the viv will be in front of a heater, but if it messes with the temperature too much it’ll just have to stay off, and ignore the rug we’ll be moving lol😂

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

I really like your approach to planning Mine was "let's try to stuff everything and see how it goes"
The only change I can think of - is to move LED and UVB strips closer to each other and to the middle, in-between CHE A and CHE B. This means that CHE B will move a bit closer to the cold end and maybe this will make CHE C redundant.

 

[COmtnLady]

I’m wanting the top to act as a little garden section she won’t be able to destroy😂the idea being that’ll be enough weight to stop her bumping it out of place lol.

🤣 Mine moves everything but the walls when she wants to. Good Luck.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I really like your approach to planning Mine was "let's try to stuff everything and see how it goes"
The only change I can think of - is to move LED and UVB strips closer to each other and to the middle, in-between CHE A and CHE B. This means that CHE B will move a bit closer to the cold end and maybe this will make CHE C redundant.

Lol thank you! I definitely feel like I probably overthink it all but hopefully it avoids any surprising scenarios on the day😂I think squirts owner understands it’ll be a matter if testing bulbs closer to the time.
Thanks for your suggestions! I’ll suggest trying that placement first before anything else😊

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

🤣 Mine moves everything but the walls when she wants to. Good Luck.

Lol I don’t doubt she’ll have a good try😂

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

@Alex and the Redfoot I thought I’d update you on that ‘night temperature drop’ situation btw! he definitely insisted he wants a drop within the viv at night, all the night and day thermostats I looked at were no good, so I did explain it meant the expense of a 100w ‘night bulb’ instead of the 150w during the day, hooked up to a separate thermostat and timer, I did try to explain it’d be a bit of an unnecessary expense but he said he was happy to do it, so how it’ll be set is, she’ll have a gradient of around 77 in the ‘cool’ end, hopefully around 80/82 in the middle, then a nice warm end of around 86 during the day, I then convinced him instead of trying to get the whole viv to drop(which would cause that ‘cool’ end to get too cold) that we can focus on safely dropping that warm end ever so slightly for the night, he’s happy it going from 86 to around 80/82, then the rest staying the same 80 down to 77 in the ‘cool’ end. Even if the 150w doesn’t work out, if we need 100 for both day and night, we’ll simply have the day thermostat set higher than the night, of course still making sure it doesn’t drop lower than 80👍🏻
I think it was a good compromise, I know it seems an over complicated way of doing things considering the extra timers and thermostats(I did mention he could always just turn the thermostat down ever so slightly at night, but with work shifts he wants the whole set up to do it’s thing automatically)
My goal was to both make sure he was happy with how she’ll be set up, and to make sure she won’t be repeatedly exposed to too low a temperature each night. Least this way I know even with the slight drop at that warm end, she’ll be kept at perfectly safe temperatures 24/7, plus I think she’ll quite enjoy having a warmer ‘basking’ spot during the day(I know red foots don’t technically bask but you get what I mean, I’m sure she’ll have a good sploot under there😂) all in all good result I think😊

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Yes, happy to know you've untied this Gordian knot
And your final setup looks like this:
1. Two CHEs hooked on 24/7 thermostat set to 80F. Probe placed in the "cold end" (or between two CHEs).
2. The third CHE hooked on "daytime thermostat" set to 86F. Probe placed in the "warm end"
Right?

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Yes, happy to know you've untied this Gordian knot
And your final setup looks like this:
1. Two CHEs hooked on 24/7 thermostat set to 80F. Probe placed in the "cold end" (or between two CHEs).
2. The third CHE hooked on "daytime thermostat" set to 86F. Probe placed in the "warm end"
Right?

Yes that is my thinking, we might not possibly need that 3rd bulb (bulb c) but in any case, due to that ‘day time bulb’ needing to be on a timer, it’ll need a separate thermostat to however many other bulbs there are.

My hunch is we’ll need the 150w in the warmer end(bulb a)that’ll be set on the ‘day pulse thermostat’ with the probe in the warm end, then bulb b&c(or just b) set on a second pulse thermostat set to around 77-80 with the probe at the cool end(I’ve brought bendy branches they’ll be attached to from the screw holes we make, so we’ll be able to play about a bit with all the probe placements) then bulb d(or c depending on third bulb lol)the ‘night bulb’ on an opposite 12hr timer to the ‘day bulb’ connected to an ‘on/off’ thermostat(no reason it isn’t pulse, it’s just the type we already happen to have her wired to, at least during the testing period we won’t have to take anything of hers, can simply pop the 100w in and turn down the thermo👍🏻)that probe will be in pretty much the exact same spot as the ‘day bulb’

I’m hoping that sounds like a decent plan?🤞🏻

 

[Maggie3fan]

Yes that is my thinking, we might not possibly need that 3rd bulb (bulb c) but in any case, due to that ‘day time bulb’ needing to be on a timer, it’ll need a separate thermostat to however many other bulbs there are.

My hunch is we’ll need the 150w in the warmer end(bulb a)that’ll be set on the ‘day pulse thermostat’ with the probe in the warm end, then bulb b&c(or just b) set on a second pulse thermostat set to around 77-80 with the probe at the cool end(I’ve brought bendy branches they’ll be attached to from the screw holes we make, so we’ll be able to play about a bit with all the probe placements) then bulb d(or c depending on third bulb lol)the ‘night bulb’ on an opposite 12hr timer to the ‘day bulb’ connected to an ‘on/off’ thermostat(no reason it isn’t pulse, it’s just the type we already happen to have her wired to, at least during the testing period we won’t have to take anything of hers, can simply pop the 100w in and turn down the thermo👍🏻)that probe will be in pretty much the exact same spot as the ‘day bulb’

I’m hoping that sounds like a decent plan?🤞🏻

My tort table is 6 feet long and I use a che at one end, a black light bulb in the middle and a chick brooder panel at the other end...
what is a 150 watt bulb?

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Yes that is my thinking, we might not possibly need that 3rd bulb (bulb c) but in any case, due to that ‘day time bulb’ needing to be on a timer, it’ll need a separate thermostat to however many other bulbs there are.

My hunch is we’ll need the 150w in the warmer end(bulb a)that’ll be set on the ‘day pulse thermostat’ with the probe in the warm end, then bulb b&c(or just b) set on a second pulse thermostat set to around 77-80 with the probe at the cool end(I’ve brought bendy branches they’ll be attached to from the screw holes we make, so we’ll be able to play about a bit with all the probe placements) then bulb d(or c depending on third bulb lol)the ‘night bulb’ on an opposite 12hr timer to the ‘day bulb’ connected to an ‘on/off’ thermostat(no reason it isn’t pulse, it’s just the type we already happen to have her wired to, at least during the testing period we won’t have to take anything of hers, can simply pop the 100w in and turn down the thermo👍🏻)that probe will be in pretty much the exact sameMy tort table is 6 feet long and I use a che at one end, a black light bulb in the middle and a chick brooder panel at the other end...

what is a 150 watt bulb?

A 150w CHE😊 we may just need 100w, but this new viv is slightly higher and obviously has a larger warm end to cover, so we have one on hand to see

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

A 150w CHE😊 we may just need 100w, but this new viv is slightly higher and obviously has a larger warm end to cover, so we have one on hand to see

We’ve personally opted to just use CHE bulbs as a heat source and LEDs&UV for daylight

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Yes that is my thinking, we might not possibly need that 3rd bulb (bulb c) but in any case, due to that ‘day time bulb’ needing to be on a timer, it’ll need a separate thermostat to however many other bulbs there are.

My hunch is we’ll need the 150w in the warmer end(bulb a)that’ll be set on the ‘day pulse thermostat’ with the probe in the warm end, then bulb b&c(or just b) set on a second pulse thermostat set to around 77-80 with the probe at the cool end(I’ve brought bendy branches they’ll be attached to from the screw holes we make, so we’ll be able to play about a bit with all the probe placements) then bulb d(or c depending on third bulb lol)the ‘night bulb’ on an opposite 12hr timer to the ‘day bulb’ connected to an ‘on/off’ thermostat(no reason it isn’t pulse, it’s just the type we already happen to have her wired to, at least during the testing period we won’t have to take anything of hers, can simply pop the 100w in and turn down the thermo👍🏻)that probe will be in pretty much the exact same spot as the ‘day bulb’

I’m hoping that sounds like a decent plan?🤞🏻

Three thermostats with two timers look like unnecessary complication in that case. You may just hang three CHEs on one 24/7 thermostat (they have to be of the same wattage to get even heating). And one CHE can be put on a "daytime" thermostat (you can use on/off there) to make a warmer area.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Three thermostats with two timers look like unnecessary complication in that case. You may just hang three CHEs on one 24/7 thermostat (they have to be of the same wattage to get even heating). And one CHE can be put on a "daytime" thermostat (you can use on/off there) to make a warmer area.

No I know I understand how it looks unnecessary, I’d be happy keeping the gradient we’re aiming for during the day 24/7, but he really wanted to mimic a night drop, I know most people tend to go for a more even 80’s all round for red foots, but he felt more comfortable her having a ‘cooler’ end, if we were to have all three day bulbs the same watt on the same thermostat, we’d struggle to achieve that😕my thinking was with the one day bulb in the hotter end being on a separate thermostat is so it can be set that little bit higher to achieve roughly a 86 ‘warm end’ so that can then safely drop a few degrees to 80, mimicking that ‘drop’ he really wants, then the night bulb that’d be right next to the one that goes off on the timer, would then turn on for the night at a lower wattage/or thermostat setting, meaning we would need that third thermostat for that bulb, hopefully that all makes sense.
Also if we had all three/or two or how ever many day bulbs on the same thermostat, that bulb in the hot end wouldn’t be able to be on a separate timer to let the lower watt/setting of the night one take over.

If I were to let him set the whole things to even 80’s, I’d worry then the drop he wants would cause the whole viv to get too cold each night, this is was the only way I could think of to keep both him happy and her safe.

I may have completely misunderstood your suggestion though?

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

I'll try to explain my thoughts in more details and you can pick it up or leave as a "plan B". Your initial idea should work anyway.

1. Three (or two) CHEs on a thermostat set to 80F and a probe close to a "cold end" will ensure that temperatures won't drop below safe level. Under these CHEs, in the middle of the enclosure, there will be higher temperature than set on the thermostat (because of probe placement). If we place CHE every 2 feet we can expect that temperatures at both ends of the enclosure are the same and not lower than 80F.
2. In the warm end there is a daytime CHE on a timer and thermostat set to 86F. Its purpose is to give some extra degrees during the day.

If you want night time drops below 80F (but not too low) at the "warm end", then your suggestion will work better.