Squirt’s upgrade

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I'll try to explain my thoughts in more details and you can pick it up or leave as a "plan B". Your initial idea should work anyway.

1. Three (or two) CHEs on a thermostat set to 80F and a probe close to a "cold end" will ensure that temperatures won't drop below safe level. Under these CHEs, in the middle of the enclosure, there will be higher temperature than set on the thermostat (because of probe placement). If we place CHE every 2 feet we can expect that temperatures at both ends of the enclosure are the same and not lower than 80F.
2. In the warm end there is a daytime CHE on a timer and thermostat set to 86F. Its purpose is to give some extra degrees during the day.

If you want night time drops below 80F (but not too low) at the "warm end", then your suggestion will work better.

Oh ok I think I’m with you, perhaps two 100’s will work, them both being moved over a bit from my original floor plan so they heat the length(maybe a 60 if that far end is too cool) all set on the same thermostat, we’ll make sure the temps stay around 77-80 from cool end to warm with just those for a few hours.
Once that’s right, next to the bulb in the ‘warmer end’ put, maybe another 60? set around 86 on the thermostat, on a 12hr day timer, with that probe in the warm end?

I’m glad we can still use both of the pulse thermostats we’ve ordered if we go with that, I’ve read they work well with the ceramics, help eliminate ‘hot spots’ which is something I was stressing about. We can also leave her on/off with her whilst we set all that up, want to run a full day and full night cycle ideally with the temps staying good before putting her in there👍🏻
The govee will come in handy there tbh! Do you think I should aim that more towards the ‘warm end’ during the trial period to see what that area does? Wasn’t sure where will be best to place the sensor.

Thank you for your suggestion and elaborating! That would be a handy way of doing things as it’d save us buying another timer😊if the temps don’t do what we want them to, at least we’re prepared to do try the other way too.
Shame the 150 might go to waste though😕maybe it’ll come in handy if our temperatures plummet here again, glad we’ve held off on bulbs for now though and that extra bracket

 

[Maggie3fan]

We’ve personally opted to just use CHE bulbs as a heat source and LEDs&UV for daylight

I use che's, don't think I ever paid attention to the wattage

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I use che's, don't think I ever paid attention to the wattage

Yeah I think most people use 100w CHE’s, possibly the watt you have.
The brand we use also do 60’s, 150’s and 250’s.
She currently has 100w CHE in her 4 by 2 on 24/7, plus a 60w floodlight during the day(we’ll be getting rid of the floodlight in the upgrade, she doesn’t really need a light emitting source)currently that brings the temps to 86 in the ‘basking area’ and the ‘cool end’ around 77, too cool really because with the night drop in there, that end is getting too cool, we’ll definitely be aiming for a warmer ‘cool end’ in the upgrade too, luckily she rarely sleeps there and it won’t be much longer now😊

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

If

Oh ok I think I’m with you, perhaps two 100’s will work, them both being moved over a bit from my original floor plan so they heat the length(maybe a 60 if that far end is too cool) all set on the same thermostat, we’ll make sure the temps stay around 77-80 from cool end to warm with just those for a few hours.
Once that’s right, next to the bulb in the ‘warmer end’ put, maybe another 60? set around 86 on the thermostat, on a 12hr day timer, with that probe in the warm end?

I’m glad we can still use both of the pulse thermostats we’ve ordered if we go with that, I’ve read they work well with the ceramics, help eliminate ‘hot spots’ which is something I was stressing about. We can also leave her on/off with her whilst we set all that up, want to run a full day and full night cycle ideally with the temps staying good before putting her in there👍🏻
The govee will come in handy there tbh! Do you think I should aim that more towards the ‘warm end’ during the trial period to see what that area does? Wasn’t sure where will be best to place the sensor.

Thank you for your suggestion and elaborating! That would be a handy way of doing things as it’d save us buying another timer😊if the temps don’t do what we want them to, at least we’re prepared to do try the other way too.
Shame the 150 might go to waste though😕maybe it’ll come in handy if our temperatures plummet here again, glad we’ve held off on bulbs for now though and that extra bracket

You may still use 150W CHE if you put it as a "fulltime" heater closer to the cold end. There will be small "dip" in temperatures in the middle with 100W CHE, but not very significant.

Yes, I was thinking about 60W at the "basking zone". You don't anything superpowerful here. And on/off thermostat may work just fine here - CHE have some warm up/cool down delay.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

If


You may still use 150W CHE if you put it as a "fulltime" heater closer to the cold end. There will be small "dip" in temperatures in the middle with 100W CHE, but not very significant.

Yes, I was thinking about 60W at the "basking zone". You don't anything superpowerful here. And on/off thermostat may work just fine here - CHE have some warm up/cool down delay.

You mean have the 100w one end next to that 60, and the 150 just over the middle? Will that mess with the gradient we’re aiming for?
And cool, we’ll probably use the pulse as we have two of those now lol, hope he doesn’t mind we went with those, I wanted it so we didn’t have to take her thermostat off her whilst we set up😊plus the pulse sounded better

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

You mean have the 100w one end next to that 60, and the 150 just over the middle? Will that mess with the gradient we’re aiming for?
And cool, we’ll probably use the pulse as we have two of those now lol, hope he doesn’t mind we went with those, I wanted it so we didn’t have to take her thermostat off her whilst we set up😊plus the pulse sounded better

My thought was that the CHEs of different wattages on the same thermostat output will consume power in proportion to their rated wattage. However, I'm not 100% sure about that.

When you place 100W CHE in the middle and a thermostat probe in the cold end, this less powerful CHE will draw full power to warm up the cold end. At the same time 150W will operate at full capacity as well, overheating the warm end. If we swap 150W and 100W, then cold end desired temperature will be reached quicker and maintaining it won't overheat the "warm end". This will give a chance for a "daytime" CHE to kick in.

To simplify, I would try to balance heat sources wattage between cold and hot halves of the enclosure. At the day time you will have 150W on one side and 100+60 on another. As for the placement, this could be "wall - 3 feet - 150W - 3 feet - 100W + daytime 60W - 2 feet - wall".

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

My thought was that the CHEs of different wattages on the same thermostat output will consume power in proportion to their rated wattage. However, I'm not 100% sure about that.

When you place 100W CHE in the middle and a thermostat probe in the cold end, this less powerful CHE will draw full power to warm up the cold end. At the same time 150W will operate at full capacity as well, overheating the warm end. If we swap 150W and 100W, then cold end desired temperature will be reached quicker and maintaining it won't overheat the "warm end". This will give a chance for a "daytime" CHE to kick in.

To simplify, I would try to balance heat sources wattage between cold and hot halves of the enclosure. At the day time you will have 150W on one side and 100+60 on another. As for the placement, this could be "wall - 3 feet - 150W - 3 feet - 100W + daytime 60W - 2 feet - wall".

Yeah I think that all makes sense, I might suggest we give that all a go first and see what the temps do, least I know if for whatever reason the bulbs aren’t doing what we want, we have more than enough thermostats to have them pretty much work separately.
You wouldn’t suggest the 100w and 60w being close to one another? Was worried if that 60 is too far, once that goes off for the night, that area might drop too much unless the 100w was in a similar place? Idk though

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

I've got lost a little bit, how many CHEs you have and what you are going to use and when

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I've got lost a little bit, how many CHEs you have and what you are going to use and when

Lol no worries! we currently have her 100w in with her on an on/off thermo, which we’d like to just leave with her whilst we get her set up, so excluding that, we just have the 150w bulb at the ready currently, two ceramic light fittings, plus the one she has, again ideally want to leave it with her so may need to get another.

The first plan of action was going to be trying your suggestion of 150 just over half way, then 100 the ‘warm end’, but I’m not sure that would achieve the gradient of 77-80?, then adding the 60 ‘day bulb’ to the warmer end on a separate timer and thermostat to raise that warm end to around 86 during the day? I was just wondering if it’d be alright to put the 60 pretty much right next to that 100? I’m worried if I space those apart too much, the area with the 60 will get too cool once it goes off?

My original plan was, 150 one end, 100 towards the middle, then a potential 60 in the cool end to achieve the ‘day gradient’ of 77 up to 86(don’t think we’d need the 3rd if I spaced that 100 enough) I’m conscious he really wants a ‘cooler’ end, so was worried the 150 being the other way round wouldn’t achieve that? Then was going to set it so that 150 goes off at night, and a 100 right next to it takes over, set on the on/off thermo, hopefully safely dropping that end to 80 of the night.

I’m not sure which plan will work best tbh😕

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Okay, it's clear now. Both plans look viable. You can test both first without fixing the sockets permanently (using two-side stickers or zip ties if applicable). Just don't leave it unattended.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Okay, it's clear now. Both plans look viable. You can test both first without fixing the sockets permanently (using two-side stickers or zip ties if applicable). Just don't leave it unattended.

Aw brill that’s good to know! I will definitely suggest your way first as your plan would save us buying another timer and potentially another bracket🤞🏻but we’ll see how all the temps act, yeah I was hoping we’ll be able to secure them without screws whilst we test them cause it would be a shame to make a load of unnecessary holes in a new viv roof, the ones we have look like this, not sure how stickers would work with these? Or zip ties, that’s the only trouble, they’re kinda heavy😕but yeah definitely won’t leave it unattended if we didn’t screw them whilst we’re testing

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Okay, it's clear now. Both plans look viable. You can test both first without fixing the sockets permanently (using two-side stickers or zip ties if applicable). Just don't leave it unattended.

Oh I forgot to ask, would you suggest, at least during the trial period, to place the govee sensor more towards the warm end to monitor those temps better? Will obviously still be temp gunning the rest regularly and checking the combos, but figured it might be good to have the data from that warmer end as that’s where there’s gonna be some fluctuation? Then once it’s all been checked, back nearer the middle?

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Oh I forgot to ask, would you suggest, at least during the trial period, to place the govee sensor more towards the warm end to monitor those temps better? Will obviously still be temp gunning the rest regularly and checking the combos, but figured it might be good to have the data from that warmer end as that’s where there’s gonna be some fluctuation? Then once it’s all been checked, back nearer the middle?

I would measure the following:
1. Temperatures in the hot end: you have to show the night temperature drop and check the timer trick
2. Cold end: it should not drop too low at night

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I would measure the following:
1. Temperatures in the hot end: you have to show the night temperature drop and check the timer trick
2. Cold end: it should not drop too low at night

Cool sounds like a plan😊thanks for the input as always!
I’m glad I overthink and come on here so often now to some degree😂it’s saved many unnecessary buys already, so any future saves will be great😁

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Aw brill that’s good to know! I will definitely suggest your way first as your plan would save us buying another timer and potentially another bracket🤞🏻but we’ll see how all the temps act, yeah I was hoping we’ll be able to secure them without screws whilst we test them cause it would be a shame to make a load of unnecessary holes in a new viv roof, the ones we have look like this, not sure how stickers would work with these? Or zip ties, that’s the only trouble, they’re kinda heavy😕but yeah definitely won’t leave it unattended if we didn’t screw them whilst we’re testing

There are glue patches for hanging picture frames, they might work. Or you can use extendable shower curtain rail.. but that's kinda awkward

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

There are glue patches for hanging picture frames, they might work. Or you can use extendable shower curtain rail.. but that's kinda awkward

Oh good ideas tbf! Might give those glue patches a go first, I’m sure we’ll find some strong enough, or something similar😊

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Um guys.. I have some pretty concerning updates, I’m currently dog sitting for them so staying over, squirts temperatures have not only dropped far too low tonight(I’m talking 70 in the middle! Meaning the cool end is in the 60’s! And the warm end she’s sleeping in must only be like 75😭) I’ve put the thermostat to 88 but it’s made no difference, I’m reluctant to mess anymore till the day floodlight comes on cause her day temps have been fine! Idk what’s happened tonight!
So there’s that, and as I was bending down to do the thermostat, I noticed a really strange smell( I thought I could smell something funky for a few days now)only to see the wood at the bottom of the viv has mould!! The carpet felt damp to the touch! I can’t see anything like it inside her actual enclosure, but there’s no doubt in my mind that the wood of the viv is finally giving up! Needless to say I’m completely freaking out! I’m going to have to call them about it tomorrow, but I genuinely have no idea how we’re going to keep her safe till this new viv now! It’s still like four weeks away at least! If that mould starts spreading, which it already could be, it’s going to make her so sick! That coupled with these temp drops again😭I’m even worried about his snake on top! If I can smell it, they could literally be breathing spores in! What the hell do I even do😭

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Um guys.. I have some pretty concerning updates, I’m currently dog sitting for them so staying over, squirts temperatures have not only dropped far too low tonight(I’m talking 70 in the middle! Meaning the cool end is in the 60’s! And the warm end she’s sleeping in must only be like 75😭) I’ve put the thermostat to 88 but it’s made no difference, I’m reluctant to mess anymore till the day floodlight comes on cause her day temps have been fine! Idk what’s happened tonight!
So there’s that, and as I was bending down to do the thermostat, I noticed a really strange smell( I thought I could smell something funky for a few days now)only to see the wood at the bottom of the viv has mould!! The carpet felt damp to the touch! I can’t see anything like it inside her actual enclosure, but there’s no doubt in my mind that the wood of the viv is finally giving up! Needless to say I’m completely freaking out! I’m going to have to call them about it tomorrow, but I genuinely have no idea how we’re going to keep her safe till this new viv now! It’s still like four weeks away at least! If that mould starts spreading, which it already could be, it’s going to make her so sick! That coupled with these temp drops again😭I’m even worried about his snake on top! If I can smell it, they could literally be breathing spores in! What the hell do I even do😭

I think I’m going to have to suggest we put another ceramic in there on one of the new thermos or set it on the one the 100 is on, cause clearly something isn’t working properly, idk if it’s cause the viv is starting to fail or what.. and I’ll have to get him to help me asses this mould situation because it’s beyond concerning! I don’t even know whether I’m safe pouring water in the corners of the substrate anymore, it could be making the damp worse😣I might have to just keep giving her a light mist and up her soak time.

I swear just when I think things are going fine and everything is on track, boom another curveball!😕

*edit* I’m currently trying to find an emergency temporary viv on fb market place I’m hoping he’ll be ok moving her to! I don’t think this enclosure is safe anymore, it won’t be very big but it’s going to have to do for a matter of weeks, hope I can find one😣

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

If the thermostat has failed, then it's somewhat expected.
1. Get the correct heating - replace the thermostat, and maybe the CHE if it has failed.
2. Place a shower curtain under the substrate (you can do it in one part, then move stuff and tortoise to the lined part and proceed with the other half).
3. Perhaps, you are right about the enclosure - if any seam has got water in it then melamine boars will quickly degrade. But I doubt you need a temporary enclosure. Maybe just a large tote box, to put Squirt there when you inspect the enclosure and making the lining.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

If the thermostat has failed, then it's somewhat expected.
1. Get the correct heating - replace the thermostat, and maybe the CHE if it has failed.
2. Place a shower curtain under the substrate (you can do it in one part, then move stuff and tortoise to the lined part and proceed with the other half).
3. Perhaps, you are right about the enclosure - if any seam has got water in it then melamine boars will quickly degrade. But I doubt you need a temporary enclosure. Maybe just a large tote box, to put Squirt there when you inspect the enclosure and making the lining.

I’d be surprised if it’s the thermostat but it could be😣, the CHE is definitely giving heat too, but I’ll ask if we can replace both when they get back to see what happens.
Okay that’s reassuring, there’s definitely no damp in her enclosure, I’ve checked, the whole thing i believe is some sort of old unit that was modified into a viv, I can only see some damp right at the bottom, it’s not near the actual enclosure part so I’m hoping it won’t be anywhere near her whilst we’re waiting for upgrade, I’ll definitely suggest the shower curtain trick or some sort of lining, and I’ll change the substrate whilst I’m at it, think I’m going to ease up on the water pouring though as it’s possible the bottom seal has gone which is causing some moisture to escape to the bottom part of the unit, might just have to lightly mist for now😕