Tort only eating when hand fed

[Minority2]

Okay. I will order new uvb and fixture to go along with it. Do you mind linking a flood style incandescent bulb so I can make sure I got the correct one? I’m sorry to be a bother I just want to make sure everything I’m purchasing is correct so I’m not wasting any money.

No I get it. I'm all about not wasting money. I'm only going over basking bulb and uv(B) bulb. If you want to go over ceramic heat emitters and reptile heat panels feel free to ask. Pay attention and don't accidentally buy 2 sets of uv(B) fixtures then come back and blame me for it.

65 watt incandescent flood bulb:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CZ1E4M/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
10.5 inch brooder lamp because wider is better. Do not use the clamps!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BM5YZW/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
Reptisun T5 uv(B) 10.0 bulb (for 2ft fixtures) in case you want to purchase them separately:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
Generic but well built T5 2ft grow light. May not be better than Arcadia version. Research has not started to either confirm or deny this. A disclaimer in case this model doesn't pan out if put in the uv(B) light fixture study:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721TG86M/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

Arcadia 2ft T5 fixture and bulb kit. Choose the 12% bulb if you decide to buy this:

Arcadia ProT5 UVB Kit 24"

 

[Kiracynthia]

No I get it. I'm all about not wasting money. I'm only going over basking bulb and uv(B) bulb. If you want to go over ceramic heat emitters and reptile heat panels feel free to ask. Pay attention and don't accidentally buy 2 sets of uv(B) fixtures then come back and blame me for it.

65 watt incandescent flood bulb:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CZ1E4M/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
10.5 inch brooder lamp because wider is better. Do not use the clamps!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BM5YZW/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
Reptisun T5 uv(B) 10.0 bulb (for 2ft fixtures) in case you want to purchase them separately:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
Generic but well built T5 2ft grow light. May not be better than Arcadia version. Research has not started to either confirm or deny this. A disclaimer in case this model doesn't pan out if put in the uv(B) light fixture study:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721TG86M/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

Arcadia 2ft T5 fixture and bulb kit. Choose the 12% bulb if you decide to buy this:

Arcadia ProT5 UVB Kit 24"

Thank you so much!

 

[Tom]

I have been using a zoo med 5.0 uvb bulb since March but I do have this one. Do you think this will be better?

What type of ZooMed 5.0? They make different types. One type is a long tube, and the other is a compact florescent lamp (cfl). The cfl types sometimes burn their eyes and might be the source of your problem. The long tube types don't burn their eyes, but the 5.0 types and all of the T8 types don't produce much UV at all. The new HO types that @Minority2 has been telling you about do produce a good amount of UV, but that means you have to set them at the correct height. Best to use a UV meter to measure the output under your tubes. For people in warmer climates where the tortoises are outside getting sun most of every year, you can get by without a meter. In your case, best to have a meter. There is only one that specifically measures the UV spectrum needed by our tortoises. https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html The upfront cost sucks, but in the long run, having the meter will save you money because you won't be replacing perfectly good bulbs that are still producing good UV. My Arcadia HO bulbs are still producing excellent UV levels after 3 years of use. I would have spent a ton replacing those every six months, as recommended, and for no good reason.

 

[Kiracynthia]

What type of ZooMed 5.0? They make different types. One type is a long tube, and the other is a compact florescent lamp (cfl). The cfl types sometimes burn their eyes and might be the source of your problem. The long tube types don't burn their eyes, but the 5.0 types and all of the T8 types don't produce much UV at all. The new HO types that @Minority2 has been telling you about do produce a good amount of UV, but that means you have to set them at the correct height. Best to use a UV meter to measure the output under your tubes. For people in warmer climates where the tortoises are outside getting sun most of every year, you can get by without a meter. In your case, best to have a meter. There is only one that specifically measures the UV spectrum needed by our tortoises. https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html The upfront cost sucks, but in the long run, having the meter will save you money because you won't be replacing perfectly good bulbs that are still producing good UV. My Arcadia HO bulbs are still producing excellent UV levels after 3 years of use. I would have spent a ton replacing those every six months, as recommended, and for no good reason.

Here is the uvb bulb I have been using. I didn’t give the correct name because I didn’t keep the packaging but I took the bulb out to give you a picture. The other picture shows the enclosure area. I don’t have much room to hang anything.

 

[Golden Greek Tortoise 567]

I would turn that off until you get what Minority2 told you was best. Those can hurt tort eyes and cause them serious damage. Until then, I would get your tort some natural sunlight an hour a day.

 

[Tom]

Yikes! I see several problems there.

• The coil bulbs should never be used. They sometimes burns their eyes. This might be the cause of your initial problem. Turn it off ASAP. They can go weeks with no UV at all, while you wait for a replacement. Use real sunshine in a safe secure outdoor enclosure if the weather is warm enough.
• 5.0 bulbs produce almost no UV, so you might be dealing with some MBD issues if the tortoise hasn't been getting direct sunshine in an outdoor enclosure.
• All lights should be mounted directly overhead, not at an angle like that.
• Those clamps should not be used to hold your lamps. They fail and can kill your tortoise or cause your whole house to burn down. This just happened to a member here last week. Her tortoise died, but luckily the house didn't burn down. You can build a simple frame with two upright 2x4s and a horizontal one across them over the enclosure. Hang your lamps from that. This will also allow you to adjust your fixtures up or down to get the correct temperatures and UV levels under your bulbs.
• The plastic bakelite type fixtures cannot stand up to the constant daily use of our reptile heat lamps. You need to get ceramic based fixtures.
• Those ramped water bowls are literally a tortoise death trap. They flip in them and can drown. Best to use a terra cotta plant saucer sunk into the substrate.

 

[Minority2]

Yikes! I see several problems there.

• The coil bulbs should never be used. They sometimes burns their eyes. This might be the cause of your initial problem. Turn it off ASAP. They can go weeks with no UV at all, while you wait for a replacement. Use real sunshine in a safe secure outdoor enclosure if the weather is warm enough.
• 5.0 bulbs produce almost no UV, so you might be dealing with some MBD issues if the tortoise hasn't been getting direct sunshine in an outdoor enclosure.
• All lights should be mounted directly overhead, not at an angle like that.
• Those clamps should not be used to hold your lamps. They fail and can kill your tortoise or cause your whole house to burn down. This just happened to a member here last week. Her tortoise died, but luckily the house didn't burn down. You can build a simple frame with two upright 2x4s and a horizontal one across them over the enclosure. Hang your lamps from that. This will also allow you to adjust your fixtures up or down to get the correct temperatures and UV levels under your bulbs.
• The plastic bakelite type fixtures cannot stand up to the constant daily use of our reptile heat lamps. You need to get ceramic based fixtures.
• Those ramped water bowls are literally a tortoise death trap. They flip in them and can drown. Best to use a terra cotta plant saucer sunk into the substrate.

Good eye on identifying the bakelite socket.

 

[Kiracynthia]

Yikes! I see several problems there.

• The coil bulbs should never be used. They sometimes burns their eyes. This might be the cause of your initial problem. Turn it off ASAP. They can go weeks with no UV at all, while you wait for a replacement. Use real sunshine in a safe secure outdoor enclosure if the weather is warm enough.
• 5.0 bulbs produce almost no UV, so you might be dealing with some MBD issues if the tortoise hasn't been getting direct sunshine in an outdoor enclosure.
• All lights should be mounted directly overhead, not at an angle like that.
• Those clamps should not be used to hold your lamps. They fail and can kill your tortoise or cause your whole house to burn down. This just happened to a member here last week. Her tortoise died, but luckily the house didn't burn down. You can build a simple frame with two upright 2x4s and a horizontal one across them over the enclosure. Hang your lamps from that. This will also allow you to adjust your fixtures up or down to get the correct temperatures and UV levels under your bulbs.
• The plastic bakelite type fixtures cannot stand up to the constant daily use of our reptile heat lamps. You need to get ceramic based fixtures.
• Those ramped water bowls are literally a tortoise death trap. They flip in them and can drown. Best to use a terra cotta plant saucer sunk into the substrate.

Wow that is a lot of problems! I didn’t realize how wrong I have been doing this. I am going to order all new lighting and fixtures. The space where his enclosure is, is a cubby type situation. So the ceiling is close to the enclosure and slanted. I will get building and ordering to fix these problems. I will most likely have an update on about 2 weeks once everything comes and can be assembled. Also I didn’t realize how dangerous the water dish was. My tortoise loves being in there which from what I’ve heard is kind of rare. But that’s a very easy fix. I wish I could go to my hardware store and pet shop but I am immunocompromised and haven’t left the house since March. I will do my best at getting everything done in a timely manner. For the mean time I will take him outside everyday for an hour or more for some sun. It’s going to be a pretty warm week.

 

[Minority2]

Wow that is a lot of problems! I didn’t realize how wrong I have been doing this. I am going to order all new lighting and fixtures. The space where his enclosure is, is a cubby type situation. So the ceiling is close to the enclosure and slanted. I will get building and ordering to fix these problems. I will most likely have an update on about 2 weeks once everything comes and can be assembled. Also I didn’t realize how dangerous the water dish was. My tortoise loves being in there which from what I’ve heard is kind of rare. But that’s a very easy fix. I wish I could go to my hardware store and pet shop but I am immunocompromised and haven’t left the house since March. I will do my best at getting everything done in a timely manner. For the mean time I will take him outside everyday for an hour or more for some sun. It’s going to be a pretty warm week.

What part of Alaska are you located?

 

[Kiracynthia]

What part of Alaska are you located?

Anchorage

 

[Minority2]

Anchorage

You should have no trouble with shipping then.

Here is a link to @Kapidolo Farms online tortoise and food retailing website. My god I don't think I've ever seen this many varieties of food choices from any other tortoise online retailer.

Category: Organic sourced diet items

kapidolofarms.com

 

[Kiracynthia]

You should have no trouble with shipping then.

Here is a link to @Kapidolo Farms online tortoise and food retailing website. My god I don't think I've ever seen this many varieties of food choices from any other tortoise online retailer.

Category: Organic sourced diet items

kapidolofarms.com

Thank you that’s an excellent resource! Especially for when winter hits!!!

 

[Tom]

Wow that is a lot of problems! I didn’t realize how wrong I have been doing this. I am going to order all new lighting and fixtures. The space where his enclosure is, is a cubby type situation. So the ceiling is close to the enclosure and slanted. I will get building and ordering to fix these problems. I will most likely have an update on about 2 weeks once everything comes and can be assembled. Also I didn’t realize how dangerous the water dish was. My tortoise loves being in there which from what I’ve heard is kind of rare. But that’s a very easy fix. I wish I could go to my hardware store and pet shop but I am immunocompromised and haven’t left the house since March. I will do my best at getting everything done in a timely manner. For the mean time I will take him outside everyday for an hour or more for some sun. It’s going to be a pretty warm week.

This sounds like a good plan to me.

If you are getting the tortoise out in the sun for and hour a few times a week, then you don't need indoor UV at all. You'll be fine while the warm weather lasts.

 

[Cleopatra 2020]

Very sorry for the late response. I have a semi update. I have tried everything with mazuri. Yes I have soaked it. I’ve even tried spreading it on greens and hand feeding it that way and still nothing. Yesterday I added a second heat bulb. “Flunkers incandescent reptile lighting basking bulb 75 watt”. So now he has two of those and a 5.0 uvb bulb. His energy seems to be perked up and he is eating a little bit more. I really think I goofed on heating and I feel so terrible. But he seems to be doing better now. I did order a incandescent flood style bulb like you recommended. And that will arrive on Saturday. I also ordered an herbal mix from tortoise supply. And just placed a grocery order for a better variety of greens. I also planted a ton of testudo mix from tortoise supply and am waiting for that to grow. Again thank you so much for all your recommendations.

A good thing too connect to your flood bulb is a dimmer switch that way you don't have to raise or lower it you just keep it at 18 to 20 in and you can use the dimmer to control the heating but you need an infrared temperature gun with the little red dot to check the Temps

 

[JoesMum]

He used to eat all on his own and when he started to slowly eat less and less I started to hand feed. I always leave his food until the next morning. I will definitely try this method. Thank you so so much!

I do have one question just for my curiosity. After the food is sitting in his enclosure for about and hour or two it wilts. Does that lower the nutritional value of the greens? If it wilts and is still untouched should I replace it with fresh greens or does that just strengthen the idea that I= food supply?

No. It’s fine. It can be left for 24 hours with no problem