Tortoise Heat & light!

Joeegould

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Jun 11, 2020
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Hi Please help me!!!

I would love a tortoise but the heat and light confuses me as it does to so many, I understand uvb is needed and I understand that its needed to be between 10-12 hours of heat per day,
day (75-90 degree f)
Basking (93-96 degree f)
night (60-75 degree f)

what I DONT understand is how far does the UVB bulb need to be from the floor of table
what wattage the UVB bulb needs to be
where should the bulb be (a lot of tables show a shelf for the light to be in the middle of table but this doesn't seem right to be in the middle as it adds heat to the entire table)

please help I really want a tortoise!!

Thanks for your time.
 

method89

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KarenSoCal

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The temps you posted would depend on the age and species of tortoise you would get. A hatchling of most species would need warmer temps than those. An adult requires the temp recommended for his species.

For the UVB light, first it is a fluorescent tube, so it produces very little heat.
The tubes don't come in wattages. They come with a "T" value, and a percentage. You will want a T5, HO (high output). The % is what portion of the light emitted is UV. They are usually 6%, 12%, or 14%. Which one is decided by your setup and how far the light is mounted above the tortoise.
 
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Hi there
The bulb should be on for 10-12 hours
But everything else depends on what bulb whether it’s the long one or the just a bulb and how big the viv is
 

Joeegould

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london
Thanks for all your responses, we will be getting a leapord tortoise. I’m confused as to why a tube is needed and I can’t use a uvb bulb. I’ve not seen much at all on the tube at all.

thanks
 

KarenSoCal

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Thanks for all your responses, we will be getting a leapord tortoise. I’m confused as to why a tube is needed and I can’t use a uvb bulb. I’ve not seen much at all on the tube at all.


The UVB bulbs are trouble in a couple ways.

First way: Several members have a gizmo called the Solarmeter 6.5. This measures the amount of UVB that the light is actually putting out at a given distance. These members have tried many bulbs. The concensus is that the bulbs give highly variable values. Most do not supply enough UV unless the bulb was resting on the tort's carapace. And they don't last. The UV output diminishes with time. The manufacturers recommend replacing them every 6 months. If you buy a solarmeter, you may find they've lost their punch at 4 months.

2nd way: One of the screw in bulbs, one that is curly or spiral or compact, has a tendency to burn the eyes of babies. The eyes become very painful and the lids swell shut. As long as the eyes are closed, the baby won't eat, compounding the problem.

3rd way: Mercury vapor bulbs give UVB. They are also extremely drying to the carapace. They actually are part of the cause of pyramiding because of the dessication. And they run so hot they are too hot for most enclosures.

Now look at a tube UVB. Again, our experimenters used their trusty solarmeters to measure UV output. They found that the tubes produced much better UVB at any given distance. They don't broil the carapace. They don't overheat the enclosure. And they don't damage tender eyes.

Now you know why we say tubes.
 

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