Draeii
New Member
Anyone here able to help me sex my tortoise? He/She is around 2 years old around 6inches i believe. Thanks!
Tortoise sex
- Thread starter Draeii
- Start date
mojo_1
Well-Known Member
You have about 3 more years to go till that can happen.
Draeii
New Member
Draeii
New Member
Alright thanks! I didnt know that 😁
mojo_1
Well-Known Member
Yes it takes about 5 years before you can really tell. Here's a picture that shows the difference. 
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
They appear female to me, time shall tell🙂
Still a lil small .looking female at this point (but that could change) also it may have a bit of shell fungus.. is she kept on wet substrate?
Its more size than age to sex them. Should tell by 8-10 inches
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Yeah whilst you’re here, I don’t suppose we could get a photo of your enclosure? Along with any of the following information would be great also!😊it’s great to know how new members are keeping their tortoise🥰
What sized enclosure do you have?
What kind of lighting/heating are you using? Any light emitting heat source should be an incandescent floodlight(example attached) however red foots are really a basking species being from the forest floor, some do but depends on the individual.
Packaging photos are good!
CHE’s are more suited in my opinion and easier to maintain stable temperatures, red foots don’t need a warmer end and a cooler end, they thrive in overall ambient temperature range of 80-86, 82-84 being optimal, CHE’s should always be on thermostats and the enclosure should never be dropping below 80.
What type of uv do you use? Again packaging photos are good!
Uv should be a t5 fluorescent tube, avoid the compact and coil uv bulbs, they don’t give out enough uv and can hurt the tortoises eyes. The uv can be on a 4 hour timer from noon. Examples attached.
With lighting avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour.
How’s your humidity? It needs to be maintained around 80 24/7, to achieve this a closed chamber is needed. You want to aim to have the bottom layer of substrate damp, to do this pour lukewarm water into the corners, not loads but enough to dampen the entire bottom layer. To stop that top layer getting dry/dusty, mix the substrate now n then. Check your monitors and substrate to do the pours as and when needed.
Avoid foggers/misters, they make the air too wet and cause respiratory problems, they also only focus on getting that top layer wet, which leaves them more prone to fungal infections, same with constantly spraying.
What kind of substrate is it you’re using? For substrates, either coco coir, dampened and packed down by hand as a base, with a layer of orchid(fir not pine) bark or forest floor on top, or just the orchid bark/forest floor. Never use anything with sand mixed in, no top soils and no kinds of moss.
How’s their diet been with you? I’ve got a great list I could share with you if you want!🙂
For a water dish a shallow terracotta saucer is considered safest, they have grip in the event your tortoise flips themselves, most pet store options are a known hazard.
I’d also always recommend getting your hands on a temp gun, they’re SO handy when setting up a new environment or for checking your monitors are correct🙂
Any information/photos you can provide on your set up would be great😁
What sized enclosure do you have?
What kind of lighting/heating are you using? Any light emitting heat source should be an incandescent floodlight(example attached) however red foots are really a basking species being from the forest floor, some do but depends on the individual.
Packaging photos are good!
CHE’s are more suited in my opinion and easier to maintain stable temperatures, red foots don’t need a warmer end and a cooler end, they thrive in overall ambient temperature range of 80-86, 82-84 being optimal, CHE’s should always be on thermostats and the enclosure should never be dropping below 80.
What type of uv do you use? Again packaging photos are good!
Uv should be a t5 fluorescent tube, avoid the compact and coil uv bulbs, they don’t give out enough uv and can hurt the tortoises eyes. The uv can be on a 4 hour timer from noon. Examples attached.
With lighting avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour.
How’s your humidity? It needs to be maintained around 80 24/7, to achieve this a closed chamber is needed. You want to aim to have the bottom layer of substrate damp, to do this pour lukewarm water into the corners, not loads but enough to dampen the entire bottom layer. To stop that top layer getting dry/dusty, mix the substrate now n then. Check your monitors and substrate to do the pours as and when needed.
Avoid foggers/misters, they make the air too wet and cause respiratory problems, they also only focus on getting that top layer wet, which leaves them more prone to fungal infections, same with constantly spraying.
What kind of substrate is it you’re using? For substrates, either coco coir, dampened and packed down by hand as a base, with a layer of orchid(fir not pine) bark or forest floor on top, or just the orchid bark/forest floor. Never use anything with sand mixed in, no top soils and no kinds of moss.
How’s their diet been with you? I’ve got a great list I could share with you if you want!🙂
For a water dish a shallow terracotta saucer is considered safest, they have grip in the event your tortoise flips themselves, most pet store options are a known hazard.
I’d also always recommend getting your hands on a temp gun, they’re SO handy when setting up a new environment or for checking your monitors are correct🙂
Any information/photos you can provide on your set up would be great😁
Attachments
Similar threads
