Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
yeah as long as it’s a closed chamber it’ll work great! Wooden vivs likely won’t last super long term because of the humidity, but should last long enough through the baby stage
UVB and heat
- Thread starter abdo
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The top is going to be like aluminium net (will there be any difference if it was small or big holes?) and will it last longer if i put a layer of acrylic sheet on the wood from the inside?yeah as long as it’s a closed chamber it’ll work great! Wooden vivs likely won’t last super long term because of the humidity, but should last long enough through the baby stage
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Ideally I’d avoid those kind and you want one closed from all sides preferably, and yeah even putting some sort of liner under the substrate will help, like cheap pond lining or a shower curtain
How would the air go in?Ideally I’d avoid those kind and you want one closed from all sides preferably, and yeah even putting some sort of liner under the substrate will help, like cheap pond lining or a shower curtain
I have 4 wooden tort tables (6'x3') in my house...and they are lined with a heavy duty shower curtain liner stapled in place...Layla lives in one with 90% humidity...and my small Sulcata also lives in a high humidity closed chamber idea...No wood so far has rotted...oh, they are 20 years old.yeah as long as it’s a closed chamber it’ll work great! Wooden vivs likely won’t last super long term because of the humidity, but should last long enough through the baby stage
You can use "long" lights - LED ceiling lights, battens, strips etc. Or low-wattage "spot" light sources - recessed ceiling floodlights or regular bulbs (1 such light, 6-8W per 50x50cm area).
If you're planning to build a closed chamber - aim for height 70-80cm. This will make lights installation easier.
Here is some examples what to look for:
1. https://www.arcadiareptile.com/jungledawn-ledbar/
2. https://www.ledvance.com/profession...ith-human-centric-lighting-technology-c272130
3. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/smart-tortoise-enclosure-even-better-than-anticipated.201672/
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
That is actually very impressive! Perhaps with the right protection and maintenance, they can last
I think op is talking a baby size mind so would need to upgrade eventually anyway
My room ceiling light appears to be good but is it ok to just put the tortoise in the room without getting it’s own ambient light (going to send a picture once I arrive home)
If the tortoise should have its own ambient lighting Is this OK to be at around 30-40cm above the tortoise shell? also should i stick it all around the enclosure or is it OK to at the corners for example or the middle of every wall
Note:
It’s 6000k
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That sort of led strip isn't very bright, so I'd put it all around the top. Use lots of it.
Should i place it one layer all around the top or two layers one above the other
Also can i make the aluminium net on top with small holes and put the UVB light on it or should it be large holes if you want i can send you an example for small holes
There shouldn't be an aluminum net on top. I think you are referring to screen. There should be a solid top and the heating and lighting should be inside. It is much more efficient and effective this way.
If you have adult Testudo and you want to use an open topped enclosure, then the lights should be hung from overhead, not resting on a screen.
You forgot to tell me if one layer is enough or should it be 2 layers
What about making the aluminium screen work as ventilation and put everything under it?
It would be appreciated if you can send a blueprint of a good enclosure with its holes for wires and 130x80cm so i can give it to the joiner of course i need you to make the best height while taking substrate height in consideration (7-13cm) and the zone 3 UVB light height is 36-60cm from the zoo med website
Yes, looks fine. Just double check that it's plain coco peat without fertilizers, perlite and other amendments.
I would make it as bright as you can inside.
Are you getting babies or adults? This answer will determine whether or not you should use screen over the top.
There are no blueprints. Every enclosure is a custom job. 130x80cm is fine for babies, but much too small for an adult. Adults need 244x122cm as a minimum. You have to mount your heating and lighting and make your own holes for wires according to your own enclosure.
Pairs of tortoises DO NOT do well together.
DO NOT keep 2 together.
If you have 2 tortoises, then you need 2 separate enclosures, one for each tortoise.
The top should be solid, completely closed, if you are getting ones 3years or younger, if adults then there can be openings. You have not told what age you are getting. What age are they?
DO NOT keep 2 together.
If you have 2 tortoises, then you need 2 separate enclosures, one for each tortoise.
The top should be solid, completely closed, if you are getting ones 3years or younger, if adults then there can be openings. You have not told what age you are getting. What age are they?
Here’s what the garden centre told me
Found another one 5kg brick
What does they mean with water expansion do they mean every kg need 15ltr or every kg expands to 15lts
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It means that each brick expands about five times the size it is when dry.
I get the packages with 3 of the smaller bricks, rather than the really big square brick. They are easier to work with.
Get a BIG bucket - clean (never used before, or at least never used with soap or other chemicals that could make your tortoise ill). I use a 5 gallon/19 liter one, but I don't know the sizes available where you are.
Fill it at least half-full of warm water and put 1 brick of coco coir into it.
Let it soak until you can easily beak it apart with your hand. If it soaks up all the water but still has hard or stuck together pieces add more water and give it more time.
Once it is loose and mushy, wring out as much water as you can by hand (it will be messy).
Pack it by hand into the bottom of your enclosure.
Do this as many times as necessary to make a base layer about three inches/7.6cm deep.
You don't want it to be so wet that you can see the water standing in the coco coir.
I put a layer of fir bark the same thickness on top of the base layer, but other people do different ways, according to the kind of tortoise they have.
I get the packages with 3 of the smaller bricks, rather than the really big square brick. They are easier to work with.
Get a BIG bucket - clean (never used before, or at least never used with soap or other chemicals that could make your tortoise ill). I use a 5 gallon/19 liter one, but I don't know the sizes available where you are.
Fill it at least half-full of warm water and put 1 brick of coco coir into it.
Let it soak until you can easily beak it apart with your hand. If it soaks up all the water but still has hard or stuck together pieces add more water and give it more time.
Once it is loose and mushy, wring out as much water as you can by hand (it will be messy).
Pack it by hand into the bottom of your enclosure.
Do this as many times as necessary to make a base layer about three inches/7.6cm deep.
You don't want it to be so wet that you can see the water standing in the coco coir.
I put a layer of fir bark the same thickness on top of the base layer, but other people do different ways, according to the kind of tortoise they have.
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