Uvb bulb

[Bpurdy711]

Hi, I have a red footed tortoise. His 100w uvb powersun keeps failing and I’m having trouble finding a replacement now. In the past year while it was under warranty we went through 4. I last one I purchased won’t work and petsmart doesn’t have anymore to replace it. What’s the best alternative to make sure he’s getting the proper light?

TIA

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Hi, I have a red footed tortoise. His 100w uvb powersun keeps failing and I’m having trouble finding a replacement now. In the past year while it was under warranty we went through 4. I last one I purchased won’t work and petsmart doesn’t have anymore to replace it. What’s the best alternative to make sure he’s getting the proper light?

TIA

Luckily it failed. Because that light is a horrible choice for a Redfoot.
You need a T5 HO linear strip florescent tube UVB light.
The MVB bulbs are too desicating. Too bright and don't provide uvb in a reliable or consistent way.
PetSmart doesn't sell the correct products. And they don't offer the correct information

 

[Bpurdy711]

Luckily it failed. Because that light is a horrible choice for a Redfoot.
You need a T5 HO linear strip florescent tube UVB light.
The MVB bulbs are too desicating. Too bright and don't provide uvb in a reliable or consistent way.
PetSmart doesn't sell the correct products. And they don't offer the correct information

Thank you. I didn’t purchase original or tortoise from petsmart but from a local reptile shop that I thought steered me correct. I will get this other light.

 

[Bpurdy711]

Should I get the 5.0 or 10.0? What wattage? Bulb is 16” above substrate

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Should I get the 5.0 or 10.0? What wattage? Bulb is 16” above substrate

The 10.0 will be your best bet.
It will have the longest service life too.
Don't pay attention to the wattage. It'll be different depending on the length

 

[Tom]

Thank you. I didn’t purchase original or tortoise from petsmart but from a local reptile shop that I thought steered me correct. I will get this other light.

You also need a large closed chamber, and a source of ambient heat controlled by a thermostat. Did the pet shop tell you that?

 

[Bpurdy711]

You also need a large closed chamber, and a source of ambient heat controlled by a thermostat. Did the pet shop tell you that?

I Have a ceramic heat from above and an under tank heater. It stays around 70 at night. Around 90 during the day.

 

[Tom]

I Have a ceramic heat from above and an under tank heater. It stays around 70 at night. Around 90 during the day.

UTHs should never be used with tortoises. Its not safe.

It should be around 82-86 day and night. 90 is getting too high and 70 is too low.

 

[Bpurdy711]

UTHs should never be used with tortoises. Its not safe.

It should be around 82-86 day and night. 90 is getting too high and 70 is too low.

There is so much bad information out there. And I thought I was doing the right thing not going to a chain place. Glad I found this forum. Any recommendations on a thermostat that won’t fail quickly? Also while I’m getting this info what’s the best way you’ve found to keep humidity up for a red footed tort? Currently spraying down regularly to keep 75%. Using coconut husk substrate to assist in keeping humidity levels up.

 

[Tom]

There is so much bad information out there. And I thought I was doing the right thing not going to a chain place. Glad I found this forum. Any recommendations on a thermostat that won’t fail quickly? Also while I’m getting this info what’s the best way you’ve found to keep humidity up for a red footed tort? Currently spraying down regularly to keep 75%. Using coconut husk substrate to assist in keeping humidity levels up.

Sad but true about the bad info.

Even the $18-30 thermostats on Amazon are pretty reliable. I haven't had any trouble to report and I have been running more than a dozen of them at all times for a couple of decades now.

The way to house a RF is in a large closed chamber with a heat source, either a CHE or RHP, set on a thermostat, and 3-4 inches of orchid bark for substrate. The lower layers of substrate can be kept damp by dumping water into the substrate, while the upper layers will remain relatively dry to prevent shell rot. If your humidity does not easily stay over 80% at all times, then there is too much ventilation. Coco coir can work too, but it is very messy, and tends to hold a more uniform "wetness", which makes shell rot more likely if it is kept too wet too much of the time. You should not ever need to spray or mist, or use a humidifier in this type of enclosure. Here is a pic of 81% humidity in an Animal Plastics closed chamber enclosure with bone dry aspen bedding. You can see the water bowl and there is also a humid hide box filled with damp coco coir and peat moss off camera. There are vents on the sides, back corners and middle of the back, plus air gaps all around the sliding doors, so this is not air tight or stagnant air in any way. I show this to demonstrate how easy it is to maintain higher humidity in the right type of enclosure, even with substrate that is completely dry. The snake is a unicolor cribo from Mexico, in case you were curious.


The only other things you need for. RF are a light source and some UV. I prefer to run UV for a few hours mid day, and rely on LED lighting the rest of the day. RF tortoises do not need a basking lamp.

 

[Bpurdy711]

Sad but true about the bad info.

Even the $18-30 thermostats on Amazon are pretty reliable. I haven't had any trouble to report and I have been running more than a dozen of them at all times for a couple of decades now.

The way to house a RF is in a large closed chamber with a heat source, either a CHE or RHP, set on a thermostat, and 3-4 inches of orchid bark for substrate. The lower layers of substrate can be kept damp by dumping water into the substrate, while the upper layers will remain relatively dry to prevent shell rot. If your humidity does not easily stay over 80% at all times, then there is too much ventilation. Coco coir can work too, but it is very messy, and tends to hold a more uniform "wetness", which makes shell rot more likely if it is kept too wet too much of the time. You should not ever need to spray or mist, or use a humidifier in this type of enclosure. Here is a pic of 81% humidity in an Animal Plastics closed chamber enclosure with bone dry aspen bedding. You can see the water bowl and there is also a humid hide box filled with damp coco coir and peat moss off camera. There are vents on the sides, back corners and middle of the back, plus air gaps all around the sliding doors, so this is not air tight or stagnant air in any way. I show this to demonstrate how easy it is to maintain higher humidity in the right type of enclosure, even with substrate that is completely dry. The snake is a unicolor cribo from Mexico, in case you were curious.
View attachment 356831

The only other things you need for. RF are a light source and some UV. I prefer to run UV for a few hours mid day, and rely on LED lighting the rest of the day. RF tortoises do not need a basking lamp.

Thank you very much for the information

 

[Bpurdy711]

While you are helping me fix that things we are doing wrong: he eats mazuri pellets with calcium and greens. Is there a protein he should have?

 

[Tom]

While you are helping me fix that things we are doing wrong: he eats mazuri pellets with calcium and greens. Is there a protein he should have?

Mazuri is great once or twice a week.

Mostly leafy greens, leaves, weeds, and flowers of the right types, and some fruit from time to time mixed in.

A tiny pinch of calcium mixed in with the greens once or twice a week. Don't put calcium on your Mazuri, as the Mazuri is already properly balanced.

Many types of proteins are recommended for RFs and the usual recommendation I see is once or twice a week. Boiled chicken, canned cat food, insects, earthworms, hard boiled egg, etc...