Hello everyone! i have a 48" UVB tube light 10.0 and i hear some people saying to change it every 6 months and thats what i was going to do but on the box it says to change it every 12 months. do you guys use this light too and when should i be changing it? I also have a hatchling Russian tortoise and was wondering if it would be good to change too a MVB because they our cheaper but it don't know how good they our for the tortoise. Thanks!
UVB light change
- Thread starter EE torts
- Start date
I use the arcadia MVBs but it is advised to change that more regularly than the recommended year too.
The best way of knowing would be to get a uvb meter, like Solarmeter (If I remember rightly I think @Tom uses that?)
They are not cheap but would let you know when the uvb is fading and you need to change the bulb/tube so may save you money in the long run
The best way of knowing would be to get a uvb meter, like Solarmeter (If I remember rightly I think @Tom uses that?)
They are not cheap but would let you know when the uvb is fading and you need to change the bulb/tube so may save you money in the long run
Last edited:
Okay, i was thinking of getting my hatchling a MVB because if heard that they put out a lot more UVB/UVA but it dose not put UVB out around the whole enclosure like a tube light is that ok? Also do they need to be in a cage fixture?
I hadn't heard that about changing the fluorescent bulbs out in 6 months, but I HAVE heard it about the MVBs. You don't want a MVB with a hatchling tortoise. It's a desiccating bulb and contributes to pyramiding in the baby. If you do go with a MVB, it needs to be mounted in a 10 or 12" dome fixture, not a cage fixture. And be sure to get one with a porcelain base, not the plastic/Bakelite base.
Okay i'll stick two the tube light and change it every 12 months or 6 months which one was it 12 or 6?
You need to get a solar meter 6.5 to answer your question about when to change the bulbs. I have reptisun t5 ho tubes that are 3 years old and still putting out enough uvb for hatchlings.
Wow that's amazing, since i don't have that i will change it every 6 months
I use a reflective wide dome with mine (with a porcelain bulb holder). I've heard the deep domes could make the bulb get too hot and burn out. I hang it rather than use the clamps.
But I have a 9 year old (approx) Leopard, not a hatchling.
Yvonne knows what she's talking about so I would follow her advice.
Yup - they are expensive but it will eventually pay for itself by saving you money on tubes.
Ben02
Well-Known Member
What’s the porcelain base?
The black plastic base the light screws into like this:
is called Bakelite.
The porcelain or ceramic base looks like this:
Note the white base and the brown base. The MVB gets way too hot for the Bakelite base.
Also, we remove the clamp feature and hang the light.
is called Bakelite.
The porcelain or ceramic base looks like this:
Note the white base and the brown base. The MVB gets way too hot for the Bakelite base.
Also, we remove the clamp feature and hang the light.
It's the bit the bulb screws into, doesn't get as hot as plastic.
Ben02
Well-Known Member
Ok thank you, mine is a ceramic one is this ok.
MVBs dry out the carapace and I don't like them over babies because of that. It will cause pyramiding.
Your 10.0 tube doesn't produce a whole lot of UV, but only a UV meter can tell you when to replace it. Anything else is just guessing. Those tubes do need to be mounted no more than 10-12 inches form the tortoise to have any UV effect at all.
Similar threads
New Posts
-
-
-
Setting up for a Russian Tortoise - Constructive comments welcome
- Latest: EppsDynasty
-
-
