actually if you hadn't asked. I would have. I'm in Ohio and we Never have 10 percent humidity. so I'll keep mine above 80f thank you very much. lol
Hi my humid box is always 90 . Heat lamp 100 cool end now 85 . On a night she goes in humid box . She doesn't spend tons off time under heat lampCouple questions
1. About the behavior of the tortoise...does it spend most of its time directly under the lamp like in the picture, or away from it?
2. How are you measuring temperatures?
3. What is the temperature directly below the basking light?
All else considered, your low temperature of 70 is a good low, but the high of 90 is a bit too low in my opinion. In my experience, they thrive much better with higher temperatures closer to 100.
I have a 17 year old Sulcata, all his temps and humidity are good, he's outside in any weather, rain, snow sun. He ALWAYS has foam in his eyes, I stopped worrying about it years ago, and he's still fine. I won't comment on anything else as I don't have Leos, just wanted to comment on the foam...
Thankyou they worry me sick sometimes .she's a rescue I'm still learningHi my humid box is always 90 . Heat lamp 100 cool end now 85 . On a night she goes in humid box . She doesn't spend tons off time under heat lamp
The above post happened when I hit some key, and it came from another thread. Please excuse....
Actually it's there too... Yea Chrome Book. I'm savin for a lap top. I finally got the printer to wifi with the chrome book, but there's nothing that says "print" so grrrrIf you know where it's supposed to be, I'll fix it for you. Let me know.
You let temps drop to 70? What humidity for this? Is this only for large adults? I am always afraid they will get sick below 80.
We are learning new things about Chelonia constantly. I personally would not worry too much about the foam. Bob has it 24/7 and he spends most of his time outside. Rain, snow, yuck; he does not care. Some people are saying adults don't need UVB lights. I disagree.
Tortoises grow until they die, that's one reason they live so long. Their organs keep regenerating.
Anyhow, Bob got burned, his new growth was black and deeply grooved. I was sick. neighbors allowed his 160 watt light to slip to 3 inches abouve his carapace. Some of his scutes are lifting. I can't remember why I started to tell you this, but watch your light, and if you would take your kid to the doctor for the same breathing problem, take your tortoise for the same thing. I also don't believe in humid boxes for adults. They should be outside as much as possible and I believe so much humidity is not good for ADULT lungs. Just my experience.
I know I will get castigated for my opinion, especially since Bob looks so bad. But he was burned not moisturized to death...Too much humid is NOT good for their lungs, and I am talking strictly about adults.Alright, so I decided to comment, and I don't have a clue as to how or why Queenie showed up in that other almost post....sorry.
Bob's humidity comes from a swimming pool in the summer and 7 months of rain.
Good to know. Thank you for explaining that so well. It all helps me translate to my weather and set ups. I apologize, @donna torti for hi-jacking your thread.
I let my sub adults and adults outside full time when lows stay above 50 actually. Hatchlings and young tortoises are a different story, but I am assuming from the picture posted that this discussion is geared towards older tortoises. They can be fine between 40 and 50, but in general when lows are less than 50 here it usually doesn't reach high temperatures that I'm comfortable with during the day. They're housed outdoors so humidity ranges, but is generally around 10%. When we get rain it obviously goes up, but being in the desert, higher humidity doesn't stay around for long. I don't worry to much about rainy days here in there, but for a wetter climate I may suggest a warmer temperature threshold.
If this was meant for me, yes I have 5 Leopards. Two adults that are outside 24/7 for the first time this year. Mine mostly still won't come out of the heated box. Most people that do this say they learn fairly fast to go back to the box. I am currently checking mine often and worrying when I can't. So far so good.The heated shed my leopard is going to stay in over night has a sliding hatch I am wanting to open it on morning to let dottie.roam . Wher .I live half the.time temps are about 15 . I am worried on cooler days incase she doesn't go back in the heated shed n sits in rain n gets sick . Is it a leopard you have ? I would appreciate your advice thankyou
If this was meant for me, yes I have 5 Leopards. Two adults that are outside 24/7 for the first time this year. Mine mostly still won't come out of the heated box. Most people that do this say they learn fairly fast to go back to the box. I am currently checking mine often and worrying when I can't. So far so good.
I am in Spokane Valley Washington, so it's not the best for them. We bring them in for winter. They have an insulated night box that easily maintains 85F. Spring and fall will be touch n go. Have to see how it goes. I have read threads from people who keep them out when temps only get into the fifties and sixties. If the sun is shining they come out for a bit and go back into the box. I think I will want at least some days over 70F before I put them out, and bring them in when day highs get down there. Learning as I go. Lolmaybe when mine gets to be more adult I'll let it stay out year round in Florida but hes not quite 4 years old now and I'D get nervous that he would get sick. I don't have to worry about making that decision Yet anyway since Im in Ohio still. Those temps seem too low and I would be a nervous wreck.