Raising a sulcata in central europe

DAANFEMA · Aug 22, 2025

Alex and the Redfoot said:
Thanks for details!

I guess, she preferred sitting under metal-hallide because it's way brighter and "whiter" than incandescent bulbs. If I'm not mistaken, tortoises like some other reptile species seek the brightest spot to bask, not the warmth or UV. So placing an incandescent flood bulb next to the metal hallide can be an ideal basking area combo.

What ballast for the HID lamp do you use? And what T8 fixtures for Sylvania lamps?

Yeah, I agree she probably prefers the metal halide because it's brighter. In Germany and Austria metal halides are extremely common as basking lights for reptile and turtle/tortoise keeping. I used a "lucky reptile" ballast I had laying around from one of my other turtle set uns. But I specifically ordered the Philips Mastercolour bulb as it has a really nice sun-like spectrum of visible light and UVA.
It also produces quite some heat, so placing an 100w incandescant bulb next to it would get the basking area too hot. Unfortunately there is no smaller wattage of this metal halide. The few 35w ones that exist all have a narrower beam. I probably have to try around a little bit with bulb placement.

For the Sylvania T8s I used "old" aquarium lighting bars, they were very common for lighting aquariums before LEDs

Alex and the Redfoot · Aug 22, 2025

DAANFEMA said:
Yeah, I agree she probably prefers the metal halide because it's brighter. In Germany and Austria metal halides are extremely common as basking lights for reptile and turtle/tortoise keeping. I used a "lucky reptile" ballast I had laying around from one of my other turtle set uns. But I specifically ordered the Philips Mastercolour bulb as it has a really nice sun-like spectrum of visible light and UVA.
It also produces quite some heat, so placing an 100w incandescant bulb next to it would get the basking area too hot. Unfortunately there is no smaller wattage of this metal halide. The few 35w ones that exist all have a narrower beam. I probably have to try around a little bit with bulb placement.

For the Sylvania T8s I used "old" aquarium lighting bars, they were very common for lighting aquariums before LEDs

Yes, I've seen Mastercolour output charts and somewhat obsessed to test them in my terrariums

I would use lower wattage incandescent with MH lamp. This way you can lift MH lamp a bit to get wider coverage area and incandescent bulb will supply some heat to keep desired basking area temperature.

Anyway, I think you've made a great lightning setup. At the moment I'm using "full-spectrum" LEDs for ambient lightning, yet I feel that things can be improved (especially UVA supplementation).

DAANFEMA · Aug 24, 2025

Alex and the Redfoot said:
Yes, I've seen Mastercolour output charts and somewhat obsessed to test them in my terrariums

I would use lower wattage incandescent with MH lamp. This way you can lift MH lamp a bit to get wider coverage area and incandescent bulb will supply some heat to keep desired basking area temperature.

Anyway, I think you've made a great lightning setup. At the moment I'm using "full-spectrum" LEDs for ambient lightning, yet I feel that things can be improved (especially UVA supplementation).

Yeah, that's a good idea, I could use two 50w incandescent bulbs on both sides of the enclosure instead of one 100w bulb.

That's the thing with most "full spectrum" LEDs, they aren't full spectrum for tortoise eyes, they only appear white to human vision.
One new LED that has a balanced spectrum with UVA would be the "true chroma" from faunalux, but it's a spot lamp that probably could be additionally used above a basking area but not for ambient lighting.

Alex and the Redfoot · Aug 24, 2025

DAANFEMA said:
Yeah, that's a good idea, I could use two 50w incandescent bulbs on both sides of the enclosure instead of one 100w bulb.

That's the thing with most "full spectrum" LEDs, they aren't full spectrum for tortoise eyes, they only appear white to human vision.
One new LED that has a balanced spectrum with UVA would be the "true chroma" from faunalux, but it's a spot lamp that probably could be additionally used above a basking area but not for ambient lighting.

Thanks for Faunalux mention. I'll look at it more closely. I have spot LEDs in some "jungle" terrariums - it could be a right fit there.

DAANFEMA · Aug 24, 2025

Alex and the Redfoot said:
Thanks for Faunalux mention. I'll look at it more closely. I have spot LEDs in some "jungle" terrariums - it could be a right fit there.

Yeah, the true chroma is an interesting option for sure, but to be honest I don't see any advantages over a good metal halide (maybe except less power consumption). The metal halide has a great continuous spectrum, bright light, a balanced amount of UVA and some good heat, so in my opinion a very sun-like source of artificial lighting.

Alex and the Redfoot · Aug 24, 2025

DAANFEMA said:
Yeah, the true chroma is an interesting option for sure, but to be honest I don't see any advantages over a good metal halide (maybe except less power consumption). The metal halide has a great continuous spectrum, bright light, a balanced amount of UVA and some good heat, so in my opinion a very sun-like source of artificial lighting.

Absolutely true. MH lamps are really cool for large enclosures. Some friends of mine are running coral reef tanks and they say that under MH lamps corals were growing much better than under LEDs. But 2000 watts HID lamps are very expensive to operate, so they had to switch to LEDs eventually.

DAANFEMA · Oct 23, 2025

Alex and the Redfoot said:
Yes, I've seen Mastercolour output charts and somewhat obsessed to test them in my terrariums

I would use lower wattage incandescent with MH lamp. This way you can lift MH lamp a bit to get wider coverage area and incandescent bulb will supply some heat to keep desired basking area temperature.

Anyway, I think you've made a great lightning setup. At the moment I'm using "full-spectrum" LEDs for ambient lightning, yet I feel that things can be improved (especially UVA supplementation).

I did exactly what you recommended about the lower wattage incandescants alongside the metal halide and it seems to work out fine! I get good temperature and irridiance measurements and she seems to like basking under it.

DAANFEMA · Oct 23, 2025

14 months update: steady weight gain and very active in her new enclosure.

Alex and the Redfoot · Oct 23, 2025

DAANFEMA said:
14 months update: steady weight gain and very active in her new enclosure.

Oh, my! So smooth!
By the way, I've seen some more your enclosure photos on Reddit - looks great!

DAANFEMA · Oct 23, 2025

Alex and the Redfoot said:
Oh, my! So smooth!
By the way, I've seen some more your enclosure photos on Reddit - looks great!

Thanks, appreciate it!

Are you also active on reddit?

Alex and the Redfoot · Oct 23, 2025

DAANFEMA said:
Thanks, appreciate it!

Are you also active on reddit?

No, just reading. Never got through their karma thing

)

DAANFEMA · May 14, 2026

Hey, I wanted to give another update (21 months now) for those interested. It's finally spring, I'll post my updated outdoor enclosure soon. Meanwhile Adama is growing nicely.

Alex and the Redfoot · May 14, 2026

DAANFEMA said:
Hey, I wanted to give another update (21 months now) for those interested. It's finally spring, I'll post my updated outdoor enclosure soon. Meanwhile Adama is growing nicely.

She's gorgeous!
I would love to see a few updates on her enclosure (or enclosures, if she has outside pen already). Did you make any changes from initial layout in the start of the thread?

DAANFEMA · May 14, 2026

Alex and the Redfoot said:
She's gorgeous!
I would love to see a few updates on her enclosure (or enclosures, if she has outside pen already). Did you make any changes from initial layout in the start of the thread?

Yeah, outdoor enclosure from last summer is post #45, last indoor upgrade to an 8x4 tent is post #55, all on page 3 of this thread. Right now im working on a larger outdoor enclosure, will post it soon!

DAANFEMA · May 17, 2026

Work in progress for her upgraded outdoor enclosure. Providing enough heat is my main concern. Outdoor enclosure is app. 15 x 3.5'. The coldframe is made of UV transmissive acrylic and holds heat well. The enclosure is on the south-east facing wall of our house and protected from rain and bad weather by our roof. I put a heat cable through the holes of a brick of her house and put it on a thermostat to heat it for the night. For cloudy/rainy days I have a halogen construction light (water proof for outdoor use) inside the coldframe, on a dimming thermostat. Open to constructive criticism and other ideas I may not have thought of. Thanks!

Alex and the Redfoot · Sunday at 10:50 PM

DAANFEMA said:
Work in progress for her upgraded outdoor enclosure. Providing enough heat is my main concern. Outdoor enclosure is app. 15 x 3.5'. The coldframe is made of UV transmissive acrylic and holds heat well. The enclosure is on the south-east facing wall of our house and protected from rain and bad weather by our roof. I put a heat cable through the holes of a brick of her house and put it on a thermostat to heat it for the night. For cloudy/rainy days I have a halogen construction light (water proof for outdoor use) inside the coldframe, on a dimming thermostat. Open to constructive criticism and other ideas I may not have thought of. Thanks!

Hello!

Do you also have bricks on the floor of the burrow? Any kind of insulation? Or the bottom stays colder?

Bricks can also be abrasive to the shell, even damaging, if you tortoise tries to dig through or under them.

Does enclosure have a drainage? Even if there is a house roof above it, there is still a chance of flooding (e.g. thunderstorms and strong wind). And a sloped enclosure top can be better for the same reason.

The construction light has an R7s lamp inside, right? Can you share some details on wattage, basking area, installation height? I've been looking at this kind of lamps too.

DAANFEMA · Monday at 12:49 AM

Alex and the Redfoot said:
Hello!

Do you also have bricks on the floor of the burrow? Any kind of insulation? Or the bottom stays colder?

Bricks can also be abrasive to the shell, even damaging, if you tortoise tries to dig through or under them.

Does enclosure have a drainage? Even if there is a house roof above it, there is still a chance of flooding (e.g. thunderstorms and strong wind). And a sloped enclosure top can be better for the same reason.

The construction light has an R7s lamp inside, right? Can you share some details on wattage, basking area, installation height? I've been looking at this kind of lamps too.

Hey, thanks for your reply!
To answer your points:

The area of the enclosure is a part of my patio, the floor underneath the soil is paved and there is a large roof above it. Im living in this house for 11 years and this area never got a single drop of rain. And the coldframe is above the hide and has a sloped top, so it's really safe and protected. The pondliner is only on the bottom and on the back wall to somewhat protect the patio floor, but not on the front, so water could drain away to the front if necessary.

On the floor beneath the hide I put down a heat mat made for greenhouses and put it on a thermostat set to 80°F, then I put a layer of roofing tiles, then a layer of soil. So the floor shouldn't get cold.

The light is a halogen construction light which is made for outdoor use. Right now it has a 100w R7S halogen capsule inside. It is rated for up to 500w, so I could upgrade in the next years if needed. Underneath there is a thick light colored rock as a basking surface. Distance should be about 18-19" but I could measure again if you want an exact number.

DAANFEMA · Monday at 1:07 AM

Some new pics

Alex and the Redfoot · Tuesday at 10:38 PM

DAANFEMA said:
Hey, thanks for your reply!
To answer your points:

The area of the enclosure is a part of my patio, the floor underneath the soil is paved and there is a large roof above it. Im living in this house for 11 years and this area never got a single drop of rain. And the coldframe is above the hide and has a sloped top, so it's really safe and protected. The pondliner is only on the bottom and on the back wall to somewhat protect the patio floor, but not on the front, so water could drain away to the front if necessary.

On the floor beneath the hide I put down a heat mat made for greenhouses and put it on a thermostat set to 80°F, then I put a layer of roofing tiles, then a layer of soil. So the floor shouldn't get cold.

The light is a halogen construction light which is made for outdoor use. Right now it has a 100w R7S halogen capsule inside. It is rated for up to 500w, so I could upgrade in the next years if needed. Underneath there is a thick light colored rock as a basking surface. Distance should be about 18-19" but I could measure again if you want an exact number.

Thanks for details. Sounds solid!

As of halogen light, it's interesting to see power density measurements, shape and size of the basking zone. I assume R7s bulbs should be much better than common PAR/R halogen bulbs.

I'm eager to try Philips ColourMaster R7s metal-halides for indoor enclosures, yet I want to gather a bit more info first.

DAANFEMA · Tuesday at 11:52 PM

Alex and the Redfoot said:
Thanks for details. Sounds solid!

As of halogen light, it's interesting to see power density measurements, shape and size of the basking zone. I assume R7s bulbs should be much better than common PAR/R halogen bulbs.

I'm eager to try Philips ColourMaster R7s metal-halides for indoor enclosures, yet I want to gather a bit more info first.

Hey, thanks for your input!

Power density at the basking area under the R7S halogen light is 300w/m² measured with an RS pro ism 400. Yes, this light has a nice wide and even beam.

Inside I also use metal halides as an addition above the basking area, I have a 70w Philips Mastercolour, but in a PAR reflector. Gives a really nice bright white light with balanced UVA, but of course a R7S metal halide would be interesting. Unfortunately those are getting hard to find.

Raising a sulcata in central europe

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