Are ceftazidime injections still good if theyve leaked in the freezer?

[AshleeSparling]

What's humidity in the enclosure?
Do you measure temperature at his shell level?
If you have a temperature gun, can you check floor and his shell temperatures?
How do you heat the enclosure now?

40% humidity, last night it got up to 56% though.

 

[EppsDynasty]

Ummm the information on this is Fantastic, so much help ....What the He!! wa the Vet for. Is the vet even competent? Save an hours drive and find a different vet. O and listen carefully to the ones helping you.

 

[AshleeSparling]

40% humidity, last night it got up to 56% though.

I'm measuring the heat with a probe thermometer and it's just an inch or 2 above his shell level any lower and he would eat it

Ummm the information on this is Fantastic, so much help ....What the He!! wa the Vet for. Is the vet even competent? Save an hours drive and find a different vet. O and listen carefully to the ones helping you.

There is no other vet.

 

[AshleeSparling]

my opinion is a temperature gradient is best unless it's a really sick animal that isn't thermoregulating, then an incubator is in order, you can keep them too hot ..... a hot spot of 90 degrees that cools off as you move away from the hot spot i think is safest....... red foots do not need kept excessively warm .....

how long have you had this tortoise? pumping their throat is normal , the more they're stressed the more and harder their throat will pump? wheezing from my experience usually comes from the nares , a chronic uri can damage the nasal passage and a healthy tortoise can wheeze, i imagine to dry may also cause wheezing...... clear/bright eyes , eating and thermoregulating normally, are better indicators of health......
stress causes rapid breathing , can this tortoise hide ?

if it were a URI like a mycoplasma infection, flared up by stress, ceftazidime will not work ......

This tortoise can not hide unfortunately I'm not sure how I would give him a hide inside his box under the lights that's big enough and non flammable. I'm open to suggestions. I've had this tortoise his whole life, he is 3. He was recently moved boxes, as well as houses. He is probably stressed out, but I'm not sure what I can do to help him.

 

[EppsDynasty]

There is no other vet.

There is you just have to find em. If you drove an hour you can drive 1 1/2 hrs. to get GOOD care right. GOOD LUCK

 

[AshleeSparling]

That is called anthropomorphism. You would feel uncomfortable at those temps. Reptiles don't function that way. This tortoise needs to be able to get warm or it won't be able to heal.

So how hot are you saying I should keep him at?

 

[mark1]

no place to hide is a problem , a health problem......... your vet may have misunderstood what you were telling them , i initially assumed your ceftazidime had thawed and leaked , until i saw the picture, and as Zovick said refreezing it is not a good option , that may have been what your vet was thinking ? and also vets often don't consider money........

 

[AshleeSparling]

So how hot are you saying I should keep him a

no place to hide is a problem , a health problem......... your vet may have misunderstood what you were telling them , i initially assumed your ceftazidime had thawed and leaked , until i saw the picture, and as Zovick said refreezing it is not a good option , that may have been what your vet was thinking ? and also vets often don't consider money........

I called the vet and they told me to just put in the freezer and it would be fine.

 

[Tom]

So how hot are you saying I should keep him at?

From post number 13 of this thread:

As I stated before, unless you have taken steps to correct the problem that caused the sickness, all these injections will do nothing. This tortoises shouldn't drop below 85 degrees day or night for weeks after symptoms disappear. Daytime ambient needs to be in the low 90s.

 

[zovick]

From post number 13 of this thread:

As I stated before, unless you have taken steps to correct the problem that caused the sickness, all these injections will do nothing. This tortoises shouldn't drop below 85 degrees day or night for weeks after symptoms disappear. Daytime ambient needs to be in the low 90s.

Tom, @mark1
What do you think of the humidity level which was listed in Post #21? It seems too low to me.

@AshleeSparling Is this tortoise in a closed chamber or an open topped box?

 

[mark1]

imo 40% is really low humidity, i doubt we ever get that low where i live

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

As I get it from the earlier posts - it's "almost" closed chamber: there is a scarse mesh at the top where lights and heaters are placed. Initially there was 8x125 CHE. Maybe it's already changed now...

I see three ways to raise humidity (complementing each other):
1. Add more substrate to the floor (6-8 inches). And keep it damp.
2. Add some water buckets/tubs.
3. Cover mesh top and lights with a box, so heat and humidity stay inside. With 8 CHEs making such cover is harder, than with an oil-filled radiator.

 

[AshleeSparling]

From post number 13 of this thread:

As I stated before, unless you have taken steps to correct the problem that caused the sickness, all these injections will do nothing. This tortoises shouldn't drop below 85 degrees day or night for weeks after symptoms disappear. Daytime ambient needs to be in the low 90s.

A chamber, it's got a couple windows though.

As I get it from the earlier posts - it's "almost" closed chamber: there is a scarse mesh at the top where lights and heaters are placed. Initially there was 8x125 CHE. Maybe it's already changed now...

I see three ways to raise humidity (complementing each other):
1. Add more substrate to the floor (6-8 inches). And keep it damp.
2. Add some water buckets/tubs.
3. Cover mesh top and lights with a box, so heat and humidity stay inside. With 8 CHEs making such cover is harder, than with an oil-filled radiator.

I did have 8 bulbs on. That was to hot, I'm learning with my errors. He has 4 bulbs on now, around 87° slowly. Climbed over the last 4 hours from 82 to 87. Are they safe to keep near eachother? Is it safe to keep it near the ubv bulb? Safe as in, fire hazard.

 

[AshleeSparling]

A chamber, it's got a couple windows though.

I did have 8 bulbs on. That was to hot, I'm learning with my errors. He has 4 bulbs on now, around 87° slowly. Climbed over the last 4 hours from 82 to 87. Are they safe to keep near eachother? Is it safe to keep it near the ubv bulb? Safe as in, fire hazard.

How hot is too hot? How cold is too cold? I need to know exactly how warm to keep him I can't be guessing on a scale of 80-100 that's 20 degrees. He acts stressed when he gets hotter than 90, but maybe hes not stressed idk whats up with him. he does a lot of banging on thr walls that's his only activity right now, especially when its warmer in the box. When its cooler, he just chills out and eats but when its hot he just bangs on the sides. I don't know if I should add more substrate yet, he's sick. So I'd need to replace it after the antibiotics, right?

 

[Tom]

How hot is too hot? How cold is too cold? I need to know exactly how warm to keep him I can't be guessing on a scale of 80-100 that's 20 degrees. He acts stressed when he gets hotter than 90, but maybe hes not stressed idk whats up with him. he does a lot of banging on thr walls that's his only activity right now, especially when its warmer in the box. When its cooler, he just chills out and eats but when its hot he just bangs on the sides. I don't know if I should add more substrate yet, he's sick. So I'd need to replace it after the antibiotics, right?

100+ is too hot. Below 80 is too cold. Because he is sick, your thermostat that controls your ambient heat should be set to 85.

Then when the daytime bulbs turn on, ambient should climb to around 90 and there should be a warmer area that is closer to 100. With larger tortoises it is better to do this with a Kane heat mat instead of over head basking bulbs.

He's banging on the walls because he is too large to be housed indoors in an enclosure that size. When its too cold he just sits there. When it finally gets warm enough and he's up to operating temperatures, he wants to go do what tortoises do.

 

[AshleeSparling]

100+ is too hot. Below 80 is too cold. Because he is sick, your thermostat that controls your ambient heat should be set to 85.

Then when the daytime bulbs turn on, ambient should climb to around 90 and there should be a warmer area that is closer to 100. With larger tortoises it is better to do this with a Kane heat mat instead of over head basking bulbs.

He's banging on the walls because he is too large to be housed indoors in an enclosure that size. When its too cold he just sits there. When it finally gets warm enough and he's up to operating temperatures, he wants to go do what tortoises do.

Are these appropriate for regulating his temperature

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

A chamber, it's got a couple windows though.

I did have 8 bulbs on. That was to hot, I'm learning with my errors. He has 4 bulbs on now, around 87° slowly. Climbed over the last 4 hours from 82 to 87. Are they safe to keep near eachother? Is it safe to keep it near the ubv bulb? Safe as in, fire hazard.

CHEs surface heats up to 300-400F when it's on for a prolonged time. With quality domes they are safe to use, but they can melt plastics placed to close to them.

Since all CHEs are over one mesh window now - cover the second window. This would help to retain humidity and temperatures inside.

Your UVB lamb doesn't give enough UV at height of 2 feet and through the mesh. You can completely remove it (if your guy will have an access to a natural sunlight) or mount it under the ceiling. If it's a Reptisun 10.0 lamp, it should be approximately 14 inches over shell top.

 

[AshleeSparling]

CHEs surface heats up to 300-400F when it's on for a prolonged time. With quality domes they are safe to use, but they can melt plastics placed to close to them.

Since all CHEs are over one mesh window now - cover the second window. This would help to retain humidity and temperatures inside.

Your UVB lamb doesn't give enough UV at height of 2 feet and through the mesh. You can completely remove it (if your guy will have an access to a natural sunlight) or mount it under the ceiling. If it's a Reptisun 10.0 lamp, it should be approximately 14 inches over shell top.

It is approximately 14 inches above his shell and I measured it to make sure. How would the che bulbs heat up to over 100° they are reptiking, made for reptiles.

 

[AshleeSparling]

It is approximately 14 inches above his shell and I measured it to make sure. How would the che bulbs heat up to over 100° they are reptiking, made for reptiles.

Would the temperature controller be useful with the equipment I have?

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

It is approximately 14 inches above his shell and I measured it to make sure. How would the che bulbs heat up to over 100° they are reptiking, made for reptiles.

14 inches is a direct placement, as mesh can filter out about 10-30% of UV as well. Unfortunately, without a pretty expensive Solarmeter we are guessing here based on manufacturer's datasheets.

I don't know if this lamp hood fixture can be mounted under the ceiling, but it worth checking.