Baby herman enclosure size

[RayneNoire]

Hi all, new member here. I recently got a herman tortoise at an expo. About 3 days ago. He's super active and i love him so much already
I've been reading the posts for about a week. Now I have all the basics. My temp gun will be here on Thursday but other wise I have the basics that were recommended on the care guides on this forum. I have a few questions on the enclosure that I'm having trouble finding the info on tho and any help would be appreciated


I saw for babies people are using a small tub and covering in foil to keep in the humidity and temps. How long should the baby be in there.

I have mine in a 10 gallon right now. I can accommodate up to a 4*2*2 currently and in a month when I move I can give him a whole room if needed. Not sure when he needs to be sized up and what's a good size for him currently . His shell is about 1 inch floor to top of shell when he's flat and just shell length going but to head is just under 2 inches. He looked smaller at the expo and I thought he was a hatchling but I feel like he needs more than this 10 gallon. Not sure if I should move him to a 20 gallon or a table. But I don't think he's ready for an open table pretty sure he still needs the high humidity. Any ideas or advice on it would be super helpful

 

[RayneNoire]

Here's the current set up if it helps. Ambbient temp on the warm side not directly under the lamp. Like I said gun to measure basking spot will be here in a few days so I can get a better reading. I mist when humidity gets to 60 usually every 4 hours during the middle of the day

 

[Tom]

Hi all, new member here. I recently got a herman tortoise at an expo. About 3 days ago. He's super active and i love him so much already
I've been reading the posts for about a week. Now I have all the basics. My temp gun will be here on Thursday but other wise I have the basics that were recommended on the care guides on this forum. I have a few questions on the enclosure that I'm having trouble finding the info on tho and any help would be appreciated


I saw for babies people are using a small tub and covering in foil to keep in the humidity and temps. How long should the baby be in there.

I have mine in a 10 gallon right now. I can accommodate up to a 4*2*2 currently and in a month when I move I can give him a whole room if needed. Not sure when he needs to be sized up and what's a good size for him currently . His shell is about 1 inch floor to top of shell when he's flat and just shell length going but to head is just under 2 inches. He looked smaller at the expo and I thought he was a hatchling but I feel like he needs more than this 10 gallon. Not sure if I should move him to a 20 gallon or a table. But I don't think he's ready for an open table pretty sure he still needs the high humidity. Any ideas or advice on it would be super helpful

Hello and welcome. The smallest size for any hatchling of an species is a 40 gallon, and that barely leaves enough room for all the furniture, hides, and food and water dishes. They also need at least that much space to create a thermal gradient where one end is cooler than the other where the heat lamp is.

A 40 gallon tank is 36x18, but I recommend starting babies in 48x24 when possible. A closed chamber will make it easier to maintain the heat and humidity you desire. When the enclosure is open on top all the heat and humidity drifts up and out and into the room.

More here:

Info For New People. Please Read This First.

Hello and welcome to tortoiseforum.org! We are all glad you are here! There is no other forum like this anywhere. We have tens of thousands of members from all over the world ranging from kids with their first tortoise to people who have been breeding and keeping high end tortoises since the...

tortoiseforum.org

 

[RayneNoire]

Ok I can go grab the bigger tank for him in the morning and upgrade him. How long do they usually stay in that size tank. When do they start needing to be sized up. I'm fine with upgrading every 6 months if needed. Not sure at what sizes they should be going up in tank size.

I believe I read that someone else usually goes to full enclosure at 4" tortoise? Is that accurate or should I size my guy up earlier?

 

[RayneNoire]

Ok I can go grab the bigger tank for him in the morning and upgrade him. How long do they usually stay in that size tank. When do they start needing to be sized up. I'm fine with upgrading every 6 months if needed. Not sure at what sizes they should be going up in tank size.

I believe I read that someone else usually goes to full enclosure at 4" tortoise? Is that accurate or should I size my guy up earlier?

Also thank you for the reply

 

[Tom]

Ok I can go grab the bigger tank for him in the morning and upgrade him. How long do they usually stay in that size tank. When do they start needing to be sized up. I'm fine with upgrading every 6 months if needed. Not sure at what sizes they should be going up in tank size.

I believe I read that someone else usually goes to full enclosure at 4" tortoise? Is that accurate or should I size my guy up earlier?

This really depends on growth rate. There is no set time frame. By 4" they would certainly be fine in a 4x8 indoor enclosure, and something larger outside.

 

[RayneNoire]

This really depends on growth rate. There is no set time frame. By 4" they would certainly be fine in a 4x8 indoor enclosure, and something larger outside.

Ok thank you. Last question when is the tortoise considered an adult or sub adult. Is it size or age? When can I be certain he good at normal adult conditions and no longer needs the high humidity and closed off enclosure a baby needs

 

[Tom]

Ok thank you. Last question when is the tortoise considered an adult or sub adult. Is it size or age? When can I be certain he good at normal adult conditions and no longer needs the high humidity and closed off enclosure a baby needs

Its really size. The reason for the higher humidity is because pyramiding is caused by growth in conditions that are too dry. If the tortoise is growing it needs that humidity. Humidity is also natural for babies because of where they spend their time hiding out in the wild. Humidity also helps delay dehydration.

They can benefit from humidity at any time in their lives, but once they are mostly done growing, it is less important for the purposes of smooth shell growth.

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Hello and welcome to the forum! Adorable baby!🥰

I’m going to include some information below on how I’d personally tackle a starter set up/a way you can build a bigger size in the future, the types of equipment to use, how to maintain humidity, and a cost effective way for you to get a suitable sized enclosure, hopefully it helps inspire an idea for you🙂
I’ve included indoor uv, but if you’re able to get them out for a few hours of natural sunlight in a secure outdoor space, you probably won’t need it.
You may already have/know this stuff but I’ll include it anyway😊

Basking light should be an incandescent floodlight(example attached) on a 12 hour timer.

Basking temperature directly under the floodlight should be 95-100f. The rest of the enclosure should be ranging 75-80 during the day.

You may also wish to add ambient lighting on the same timer, providing shady areas with hides and safe plants.

Then CHE/CHE’s(ceramic heat emitters) always on a thermostat, for night heat if your house drops below 60’s at night.

Any indoor Uv should be a t5 fluorescent tube, avoid the compact and coil uv bulbs, they don’t give out enough uv and can hurt the tortoises eyes. The uv can be on a 4 hour timer from noon. Again though if having natural sunlight daily don’t worry about this bit.

With lighting always avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour.

For substrates, either coco coir, dampened and packed down by hand as a base, with a layer of orchid(fir not pine) bark or forest floor on top, or just the orchid bark/forest floor. Never use anything with sand mixed in, no top soils and no kinds of moss. The trouble with top soil is you don’t know what kind of plants have gone into it, they could be toxic.

You want to aim to have the bottom layer of substrate damp, to do this pour lukewarm water into the corners, not loads but enough to dampen the entire bottom layer. To stop that top layer getting a little too dry/dusty, mix the substrate now n then, which also helps boosting humidity or give the top a spray. Check your monitors and substrate to do the pours as and when needed. I don’t recommend misters or foggers, they get the air too wet and cause respiratory problems. Spraying won’t last as long.

Humidity for young growing tortoises needs to be maintained around 80%, 24/7, you’ll find that difficult to achieve with an open top, for the set up I’m recommending I’d get a greenhouse cover. Once the tortoise is older a cover won’t be needed.

To maintain humidity whilst the tortoise is younger a greenhouse style set up works well and provides more space, as an adult they are going to ideally need a minimum of an 8x4, the bigger you go the better, it’s ideal if you can build your own base to go as big as you can for the room you have. A 4x2 or 4x4 will last you until they’re a bit bigger🙂

If you can’t find an exact fit for your base with the cover, then place it over like the one with the white base in the photo, I’d put lining down under the base and cover though to stop condensate getting on your floor.
When making your base, just make sure the material is safe, some use flower beds or just make their own, for both these options I’d line with cheap pond liner to protect the base, making sure the liner goes up the sides too and make sure those sides are deep enough to prevent escapes.

Some people even hang their lighting from the greenhouse frame! Simply wrap the wire round so it’s at the height you need(check with temp gun/put thermostat in, 18-21 inches for uv I recommend) then secure with cable ties&chains.
I’ve also included examples of stands people make/buy. You could throw some pvc covering over the stands if youre struggling for a topper, but again if you do that, I’d put lining down under the base to stop condensate.

For a water dish a shallow terracotta saucer is considered safest, they have grip in the event your tortoise flips themselves, most pet store options are a known hazard.

If going for this set up, allow up to a week for the materials to ‘off gas’ with the heat running , until there’s no smell, once odourless, it’s safe for use🐢

Ignore whatever else is in these enclosures in the photos, they’re just to give you an idea👍

You may also find this link below useful to look through for some food ideas😊

The Tortoise Table - Home

The Tortoise Table plant database and resource site for Tortoise owners

www.thetortoisetable.org.uk

Hope all this helps!🙂

 

[RayneNoire]

Hello and welcome to the forum! Adorable baby!🥰

I’m going to include some information below on how I’d personally tackle a starter set up/a way you can build a bigger size in the future, the types of equipment to use, how to maintain humidity, and a cost effective way for you to get a suitable sized enclosure, hopefully it helps inspire an idea for you🙂
I’ve included indoor uv, but if you’re able to get them out for a few hours of natural sunlight in a secure outdoor space, you probably won’t need it.
You may already have/know this stuff but I’ll include it anyway😊

Basking light should be an incandescent floodlight(example attached) on a 12 hour timer.

Basking temperature directly under the floodlight should be 95-100f. The rest of the enclosure should be ranging 75-80 during the day.

You may also wish to add ambient lighting on the same timer, providing shady areas with hides and safe plants.

Then CHE/CHE’s(ceramic heat emitters) always on a thermostat, for night heat if your house drops below 60’s at night.

Any indoor Uv should be a t5 fluorescent tube, avoid the compact and coil uv bulbs, they don’t give out enough uv and can hurt the tortoises eyes. The uv can be on a 4 hour timer from noon. Again though if having natural sunlight daily don’t worry about this bit.

With lighting always avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour.

For substrates, either coco coir, dampened and packed down by hand as a base, with a layer of orchid(fir not pine) bark or forest floor on top, or just the orchid bark/forest floor. Never use anything with sand mixed in, no top soils and no kinds of moss. The trouble with top soil is you don’t know what kind of plants have gone into it, they could be toxic.

You want to aim to have the bottom layer of substrate damp, to do this pour lukewarm water into the corners, not loads but enough to dampen the entire bottom layer. To stop that top layer getting a little too dry/dusty, mix the substrate now n then, which also helps boosting humidity or give the top a spray. Check your monitors and substrate to do the pours as and when needed. I don’t recommend misters or foggers, they get the air too wet and cause respiratory problems. Spraying won’t last as long.

Humidity for young growing tortoises needs to be maintained around 80%, 24/7, you’ll find that difficult to achieve with an open top, for the set up I’m recommending I’d get a greenhouse cover. Once the tortoise is older a cover won’t be needed.

To maintain humidity whilst the tortoise is younger a greenhouse style set up works well and provides more space, as an adult they are going to ideally need a minimum of an 8x4, the bigger you go the better, it’s ideal if you can build your own base to go as big as you can for the room you have. A 4x2 or 4x4 will last you until they’re a bit bigger🙂

If you can’t find an exact fit for your base with the cover, then place it over like the one with the white base in the photo, I’d put lining down under the base and cover though to stop condensate getting on your floor.
When making your base, just make sure the material is safe, some use flower beds or just make their own, for both these options I’d line with cheap pond liner to protect the base, making sure the liner goes up the sides too and make sure those sides are deep enough to prevent escapes.

Some people even hang their lighting from the greenhouse frame! Simply wrap the wire round so it’s at the height you need(check with temp gun/put thermostat in, 18-21 inches for uv I recommend) then secure with cable ties&chains.
I’ve also included examples of stands people make/buy. You could throw some pvc covering over the stands if youre struggling for a topper, but again if you do that, I’d put lining down under the base to stop condensate.

For a water dish a shallow terracotta saucer is considered safest, they have grip in the event your tortoise flips themselves, most pet store options are a known hazard.

If going for this set up, allow up to a week for the materials to ‘off gas’ with the heat running , until there’s no smell, once odourless, it’s safe for use🐢

Ignore whatever else is in these enclosures in the photos, they’re just to give you an idea👍

You may also find this link below useful to look through for some food ideas😊

The Tortoise Table - Home

The Tortoise Table plant database and resource site for Tortoise owners

www.thetortoisetable.org.uk

Hope all this helps!🙂

Oh wow thank you. The photos are very helpful. Thanks both of you for the guidance I'll go to the store tomorrow and see what I can find for him