Baby redfoot tortoise dehydrated

[crab king]

I've had my baby cherryhead for 3 months, and I learned that he was dehydrated. So I did what this forum told me to do, I soaked him every day for 30 minutes and kept the humidity above 80percent. I see him drink, and he eats alot, It seems that he is not getting better. and recently he is not active. He falls asleep while eating and doesn't move much. His skin on his head is very flaky and dry. What would improve his situation?

 

[Minority2]

Did you change your lighting fixture height as was suggested in a previous thread? Better yet, have you moved your cherry foot into a larger enclosure? The white one you had was pretty small and would most likely not have a good range of temperature zones.

Most hatchlings benefit from nighttime temperatures of 80F; cherries and red foots included. Daytime temperatures should be 90 warm, 80 cool, 80% humidity. A basking light (Optional) temp of 95F.

What about your tortoise's diet? Is he eating a variety of different foods? Certain types of foods eaten back to back can for long periods can cause health complications.

Flaky skin is normal. Captive tortoises aren't as active as wild tortoises because they're given their fill of food instead of foraging for it themselves. They'll wake up, wait by their feed dish, eat, and then spend the rest of their time regulating their body temperatures.

Here are some links you may want to read up on:
https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/redfoot-care-sheet-sticky.149266/
https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/please-critique-my-redfoot-care-sheet-picture-heavy.166389/

 

[crab king]

Did you change your lighting fixture height as was suggested in a previous thread? Better yet, have you moved your cherry foot into a larger enclosure? The white one you had was pretty small and would most likely not have a good range of temperature zones.

Most hatchlings benefit from nighttime temperatures of 80F; cherries and red foots included. Daytime temperatures should be 90 warm, 80 cool, 80% humidity. A basking light (Optional) temp of 95F.

What about your tortoise's diet? Is he eating a variety of different foods? Certain types of foods eaten back to back can for long periods can cause health complications.

Flaky skin is normal. Captive tortoises aren't as active as wild tortoises because they're given their fill of food instead of foraging for it themselves. They'll wake up, wait by their feed dish, eat, and then spend the rest of their time regulating their body temperatures.

Here are some links you may want to read up on:
https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/redfoot-care-sheet-sticky.149266/
https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/please-critique-my-redfoot-care-sheet-picture-heavy.166389/

Thanks for replying!
I couldn't change the light because the enclosure was too low, so I turned the light towards the ceiling. I am planning to move him to a 120x80(cm). I feed my tortoise romaine, arugula, figs, blueberries, peaches, and zucchini with calcium supplements once a week.

 

[Minority2]

Thanks for replying!
I couldn't change the light because the enclosure was too low, so I turned the light towards the ceiling. I am planning to move him to a 120x80(cm). I feed my tortoise romaine, arugula, figs, blueberries, peaches, and zucchini with calcium supplements once a week.

That diet needs improving. Read the links I provided.

The 120 L x 80 W cm enclosure you suggest will only last your tortoise for another few months to a year tops. Instead of trying to constantly play catch up to your tortoise's growth you should consider buying/building a larger enclosure; one that would comfortable fit them until they're ready to be housed outdoors. A 180-240 L x 75-90 W cm would be able to house your tortoise for another 3 years or so.

 

[crab king]

Thank you, those threads helped me a lot! I will improve the diet and I'll build his house right away with the bookshelf that I found in the junkyard.