Help - light melted!

[Tinyhigg]

Please help.

My basking light died - melted?

We are using Arcadia SBF100 Basking Solar Lamp UVA Floodlight and Arcadia Ceramic Reflector Clamp Lamp (without the clamp).

We have had the ceramic reflector for 1 year 3 months. The light is the second one we change in the last 6 months as the first one just died. We thought this was an isolated bad bulb and got another.

We have the lamp connected to the Microclimate Evo Connected 2 thermostat. We were using the "Dimming or Pulse selectable channel", as when doing our research it said to use with a dimming thermostat. Our setting being Heating > Dimming > Day & Night. We kept a 0 temperature at night so it would be off.

The thermostat is connected to a surge protected extension and the light is on showing is still protected.

We really don't want to put another light/reflector without knowing what is the problem as this can be dangerous.

 

[COmtnLady]

It is possible the particular bulb was damaged somewhere along its way to you and it just took this long to completely fail. Perhaps try a different company's product?

Do you want suggestions for removing the part inside the socket?

 

[Yvonne G]

What size is the dome? That type bulb should be housed in a 10 or 12" dome otherwise it gets too hot.

 

[Tinyhigg]

What size is the dome? That type bulb should be housed in a 10 or 12" dome otherwise it gets too hot.

This could be it! I think I was using the smaller dome.

But Arcadia only comes in 2 sizes: 140mm/5 ½” and 200mm/8”.

Would the 8in be ok?

 

[Tinyhigg]

It is possible the particular bulb was damaged somewhere along its way to you and it just took this long to completely fail. Perhaps try a different company's product?

Do you want suggestions for removing the part inside the socket?

Since it is the second bulb to die in 6 months, I think the problem is the setup.

 

[Yvonne G]

This could be it! I think I was using the smaller dome.

But Arcadia only comes in 2 sizes: 140mm/5 ½” and 200mm/8”.

Would the 8in be ok?

No, and 12" s even better than the 10". You can get the larger sizes at home improvement stores or farm supply stores

 

[Tinyhigg]

No, and 12" s even better than the 10". You can get the larger sizes at home improvement stores or farm supply stores

I'm from the UK, do you know where in here I can get such thing? Or some member from the UK that can share where they got their dome?

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

I'm from the UK, do you know where in here I can get such thing? Or some member from the UK that can share where they got their dome?

It’s very tricky to source the 10” domes here for some reason! the listings I’ve seen some time a go now don’t appear to be available any longer, have a look around, but you may have to go with 8”, not ideal but might be the only option..

 

[jaizei]

If the bulb just separated from the base, it happens. I'd remove the broken part from the socket and just buy a new bulb.

 

[Tom]

Please help.

My basking light died - melted?

We are using Arcadia SBF100 Basking Solar Lamp UVA Floodlight and Arcadia Ceramic Reflector Clamp Lamp (without the clamp).

We have had the ceramic reflector for 1 year 3 months. The light is the second one we change in the last 6 months as the first one just died. We thought this was an isolated bad bulb and got another.

We have the lamp connected to the Microclimate Evo Connected 2 thermostat. We were using the "Dimming or Pulse selectable channel", as when doing our research it said to use with a dimming thermostat. Our setting being Heating > Dimming > Day & Night. We kept a 0 temperature at night so it would be off.

The thermostat is connected to a surge protected extension and the light is on showing is still protected.

We really don't want to put another light/reflector without knowing what is the problem as this can be dangerous.

Your heat lamp should be on a timer, not a dimming thermostat. Thermostats are used to control ambient heat sources. Control the temperature under the heat lamp by adjusting the height of the bulb, or the wattage, or use a rheostat to dial in the correct temp. You don't want the "sun" turning on and off all day.

Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

If the bulb just separated from the base, it happens. I'd remove the broken part from the socket and just buy a new bulb.

This happened to me ones, I removed the broken part from the socket and put in a new bulb. The socket didn't work anymore. Tried with a few E27 bulbs and none would light up. Had to buy a new dome.

 

[Tinyhigg]

If the bulb just separated from the base, it happens. I'd remove the broken part from the socket and just buy a new bulb.

I worry is the second bulb to die in 6 months? The other one didn't separate just stop working, but still. Two new bulbs from different suppliers failing in a couple of months.

 

[Tinyhigg]

This happened to me ones, I removed the broken part from the socket and put in a new bulb. The socket didn't work anymore. Tried with a few E27 bulbs and none would light up. Had to buy a new dome.

I'm ok buying a new dome. I'm not even trying to remove it. But like I said... I worry is the second bulb to die in 6 months? The other one didn't separate just stop working, but still. Two new bulbs from different suppliers failing in a couple of months.

 

[Tinyhigg]

It’s very tricky to source the 10” domes here for some reason! the listings I’ve seen some time a go now don’t appear to be available any longer, have a look around, but you may have to go with 8”, not ideal but might be the only option..

Can I ask you exactly what you use for your basking light? Bulb brand and wattage, dome brand and size, and thermostat?

 

[Tinyhigg]

Your heat lamp should be on a timer, not a dimming thermostat. Thermostats are used to control ambient heat sources. Control the temperature under the heat lamp by adjusting the height of the bulb, or the wattage, or use a rheostat to dial in the correct temp. You don't want the "sun" turning on and off all day.

Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

From the data, the light doesn't go off during the day, it just dims. But since I live in a cold weather, the light stays full power for the majority of it. I think it mostly dims during the day/night transition.

Do you think the dimming thermostat is what is making my bulbs die/melt?

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

I'm ok buying a new dome. I'm not even trying to remove it. But like I said... I worry is the second bulb to die in 6 months? The other one didn't separate just stop working, but still. Two new bulbs from different suppliers failing in a couple of months.

The last Arcadia bulb I had only lasted about 975 hours or about 80 days before it burned out. That is less than three months. @wellington suggested to me back then that the lamp got just too hot in the dome.

 

[Tinyhigg]

The last Arcadia bulb I had only lasted about 975 hours or about 80 days before it burned out. That is less than three months. @wellington suggested to me back then that the lamp got just too hot in the dome.

What did you do? Got a larger dome? Change to another bulb brand?

I am just worried about the enclosure or even the house *knocks on wood* catching fire. But maybe this is just more common than I thought?

I have to say, I had my tort with an MVB light for almost a year - before I learnt they aren't good for torts.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

You can try to get plain ceramic socket. Lamps like Arcadia Solar Basking have reflecting sleeve, so using a dome makes less sense (only to protect eyes when looking from the side).

Does thermostat have a timer function for output? I'm not sure that 0C dimming fully turns the light off (unless it's explicitely stated in manual)

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

What did you do? Got a larger dome? Change to another bulb brand?

Changed to another bulb brand. It is possible that my Arcadia bulb was a stud, but either way I couldn't find anywhere how long it was supposed to burn. A regular incandescent burns for only 1000 hours, so maybe that 975 hours was normal.

 

[Tom]

From the data, the light doesn't go off during the day, it just dims. But since I live in a cold weather, the light stays full power for the majority of it. I think it mostly dims during the day/night transition.

Do you think the dimming thermostat is what is making my bulbs die/melt?

Dimming isn't good. That bulb is supposed to be their "sun" when they are indoors. It shouldn't dim or turn off. The "sun" should come up and stay up for 12 hours. Again, control the basking temperature directly under the bulb by adjusting the height, the wattage of the bulb being used, or with a rheostat that can be set to the correct temperature. Your dimming thermostat should control a RHP or a CHE that doesn't give off any light and is used to maintain the ambient temperature of the enclosure where you want it.

Is that the cause of the bulb burning out prematurely? I don't know but it seems like it could be a contributing factor to me.