Great, I would stop all supplements. How often were you giving Sheldon calcium and how much?
*Help my tortoise Sheldon
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I barely bought the calcium last week and I have been giving it to him once a week and I would sprinkle it on his lettuce not too much.
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I agree with Ray-Opo...stop all supplements, I would say for a week. Then, give calcium, a small pinch, 2x/week. Instead of you trying to figure out individual vitamins, you can get ReptiVit. You can usually find it in Petco or Petsmart. You give a small pinch once a week.
I would apply coconut oil to his skin to try to help moisturize it. You can put some on his shell at the same time. It's healthy for his shell...put it on, wait 10-15 minutes, and wipe off the excess with a soft towel. Do it once a week. If you don't want to, you don't have to. Some keepers do, some don't. I like to put it on my tort. If you do this, keep in mind he will be very slippery...hang on tight! I put mine in a towel to carry him.
I don't know if other members will agree with coconut oil on his skin, but it's safe, and he certainly needs something to soften that skin. I would use it.
I'm posting a very long list of foods good for tortoises. It's a bit jumbled, but it's complete. At the end is a section on supplements.
Compiled by Tom:
Good foods for tortoises are "chicories," types of lettuce that are likely to be on the far side of the more common floppy green heads of lettuce most people buy. Anything labeled as simply "chicory" is good, as are radiccio, frisee, escarole, and endive; you might even find something labeled as dandelions. You may find a bag of "Spring" or "Spicy" mix that is good, just check the label to be sure it has some of the chicories I just mentioned. The leaves (just the leaves) of turnips and radishes are also good, as are carrot tops. Collards, mustard greens, bok choy, and other dark, leafy greens are okay as well. If you have any kind of Mexican/hispanic market near you, they will sell cactus, labeled "nopales." Cactus is a great food to rotate in the diet, as it is high in calcium.
You don't need to feed all of these at one time, just make sure your tortoise is getting access to different types of food. As you get more experienced, you can find the better types of food listed on the care sheets.
Here are a whole bunch of non-grocery store suggestions.
Mulberry leaves
Grape vine leaves
Hibiscus leaves
African hibiscus leaves
Blue hibiscus leaves
Rose of Sharon leaves
Rose leaves
Geraniums
Gazanias
Nasturtium
Lavatera
Pansies
Petunias
Hostas
Honeysuckle
Cape honeysuckle
Leaves and blooms from any squash plant, like pumpkin, cucumber, summer squash, etc...
Young spineless opuntia cactus pads
Weeds:
There are soooooooo many...
Dandelion
Mallow
Filaree
Smooth Sow thistle
Prickly Sow thistle
Milk thistle
Goat head weed
Cats ear
Nettles
Trefoil
Wild onion
Wild mustard
Wild Garlic
Clovers
Broadleaf plantain
Narrow leaf plantain
Chick weed
Hawksbit
Hensbit
Hawksbeard
Other good stuff:
kapidolofarms.com
"Testudo Seed Mix" from http://www.tortoisesupply.com/SeedMixes
Pasture mixes or other seeds from http://www.groworganic.com/seeds.html
Homegrown alfalfa
Mazuri Tortoise Chow
ZooMed Grassland Tortoise Food
Ones that you can buy in every store:
Arugula
Lambs lettuce
Chicory
Kale
Mustard greens
Organic kohlrabi leafs
Organic carrot leafs
Organic radish leafs
Dandelions
Radiccio
Their main diet should be broad leaf weeds, succulents and grasses. Store bought foods are okay, but not the best. Collards and dandelions are a good food, but neither should be used every day. Check out the plant ID section for lots of ideas on weeds to feed. You can get spineless opuntia cactus pads from most Mexican grocery stores, or grow them yourself. You can also easily grow grape leaves, african hibiscus, regular hibiscus (if it will survive in your area), and mulberry leaves. You can try red apple, ice plant, and jade plant too. Also look into Gazania, pansies, nasturtiums, carnations, geraniums and many others. At the grocery store, favor endive and escarole, but also use cilantro, carrot tops, mustard and turnip greens, bok choy, radiccio, swiss chard, watercress, parsley, all the lettuces, etc. Lots of variety is best. There are also tortoise "weed" seed mixes that you can grow. I like the "Testudo Mix" from Tortoisesupply.com.
Buckwheat; cactus; vetch; Mohave aster; creosote bush; desert four o’clock; tacoma stans; bladderpod; globe mallow; goldenhead; burro weed; so many things!
Feeding:
So much contradictory info on this subject. Its simple. What do they eat in the wild. Grass, weeds, leaves, flowers, and succulents. Feed them a huge variety of these things, and you'll have a healthy tortoise. All of these species are very adaptable when it comes to diet and there is a very large margin of error, and many ways to do it right. What if you don't have this sort of "natural" tortoise food available for part of each year because you are in the snow? You will have no choice but to buy grocery store food. What's wrong with grocery store food? It tends to lack fiber, some items are low in calcium or have a poor calcium to phosphorous ratio, and some items have deleterious compounds in them. All of these short comings can be improved with some simple supplementation and amendments. A pinch of calcium two times per week will help fix that problem. You can also leave cuttle bone in the enclosure, so your tortoise can self-regulate its own calcium intake. What about fiber? Soaked horse hay pellets, soaked ZooMed Grassland pellets, Mazuri tortoise chow, "Salad style", "Herbal Hay" both from @TylerStewart and his lovely wife Sarah at Tortoisesupply.com, or many of the dried plants and leaves available from Will @Kapidolo Farms. If you must use grocery store foods, favor endive and escarole as your main staples. Add in arugula, cilantro, kale, collard, mustard and turnip greens, squash leaves, spring mix, romaine, green or red leaf lettuce, butter lettuce, water cress, carrot tops, celery tops, bok choy, and whatever other greens you can find. If you mix in some of the aforementioned amendments, these grocery store foods will offer plenty of variety and fiber and be able to meet your tortoises nutritional needs just fine. I find it preferable to grab a few grapevine or mulberry leaves, or a handful of mallow and clover, or some broadleaf plantain leaves and some grass, but with the right additions, grocery store stuff is fine too. Grow your own stuff, or find it around you when possible. Tyler and Sarah also sell a fantastic Testudo seed mix that is great for ALL tortoise species and also super easy to grow in pots, trays, raised garden beds, or in outdoor tortoise enclosures. When that isn't possible, add a wide variety of good stuff to your grocery store greens to make them better.
Supplements:
I recommend you keep cuttle bone available all the time. Some never use it and some munch on it regularly. Some of mine will go months without touching it, and then suddenly eat the whole thing in a day or two. Sulcatas and leopards grow a lot. This requires a tremendous amount of calcium assimilation over time. A great diet is paramount, but it is still a good idea to give them some extra calcium regularly. I use a tiny pinch of RepCal or ZooMed plain old calcium carbonate twice a week. Much discussion has been given to whether or not they need D3 in their calcium supplement. Personally, I don't think it matters. Every tortoise should be getting adequate UV exposure one way or another, so they should be able to make their own D3. I also like to use a mineral supplement. "MinerAll" is my current brand of choice. It seems to help those tortoises that like to swallow pebbles and rocks. It is speculated that some tortoise eat rocks or substrate due to a mineral deficiency or imbalance. Whatever the reason, "MinerAll" seems to stop it or prevent it. Finally, I like to use a reptile vitamin supplement once a week, to round out any hidden deficiencies that may be in my diet over the course of a year.
I would apply coconut oil to his skin to try to help moisturize it. You can put some on his shell at the same time. It's healthy for his shell...put it on, wait 10-15 minutes, and wipe off the excess with a soft towel. Do it once a week. If you don't want to, you don't have to. Some keepers do, some don't. I like to put it on my tort. If you do this, keep in mind he will be very slippery...hang on tight! I put mine in a towel to carry him.
I don't know if other members will agree with coconut oil on his skin, but it's safe, and he certainly needs something to soften that skin. I would use it.
I'm posting a very long list of foods good for tortoises. It's a bit jumbled, but it's complete. At the end is a section on supplements.
Compiled by Tom:
Good foods for tortoises are "chicories," types of lettuce that are likely to be on the far side of the more common floppy green heads of lettuce most people buy. Anything labeled as simply "chicory" is good, as are radiccio, frisee, escarole, and endive; you might even find something labeled as dandelions. You may find a bag of "Spring" or "Spicy" mix that is good, just check the label to be sure it has some of the chicories I just mentioned. The leaves (just the leaves) of turnips and radishes are also good, as are carrot tops. Collards, mustard greens, bok choy, and other dark, leafy greens are okay as well. If you have any kind of Mexican/hispanic market near you, they will sell cactus, labeled "nopales." Cactus is a great food to rotate in the diet, as it is high in calcium.
You don't need to feed all of these at one time, just make sure your tortoise is getting access to different types of food. As you get more experienced, you can find the better types of food listed on the care sheets.
Here are a whole bunch of non-grocery store suggestions.
Mulberry leaves
Grape vine leaves
Hibiscus leaves
African hibiscus leaves
Blue hibiscus leaves
Rose of Sharon leaves
Rose leaves
Geraniums
Gazanias
Nasturtium
Lavatera
Pansies
Petunias
Hostas
Honeysuckle
Cape honeysuckle
Leaves and blooms from any squash plant, like pumpkin, cucumber, summer squash, etc...
Young spineless opuntia cactus pads
Weeds:
There are soooooooo many...
Dandelion
Mallow
Filaree
Smooth Sow thistle
Prickly Sow thistle
Milk thistle
Goat head weed
Cats ear
Nettles
Trefoil
Wild onion
Wild mustard
Wild Garlic
Clovers
Broadleaf plantain
Narrow leaf plantain
Chick weed
Hawksbit
Hensbit
Hawksbeard
Other good stuff:
Category: Organic sourced diet items
kapidolofarms.com
"Testudo Seed Mix" from http://www.tortoisesupply.com/SeedMixes
Pasture mixes or other seeds from http://www.groworganic.com/seeds.html
Homegrown alfalfa
Mazuri Tortoise Chow
ZooMed Grassland Tortoise Food
Ones that you can buy in every store:
Arugula
Lambs lettuce
Chicory
Kale
Mustard greens
Organic kohlrabi leafs
Organic carrot leafs
Organic radish leafs
Dandelions
Radiccio
Their main diet should be broad leaf weeds, succulents and grasses. Store bought foods are okay, but not the best. Collards and dandelions are a good food, but neither should be used every day. Check out the plant ID section for lots of ideas on weeds to feed. You can get spineless opuntia cactus pads from most Mexican grocery stores, or grow them yourself. You can also easily grow grape leaves, african hibiscus, regular hibiscus (if it will survive in your area), and mulberry leaves. You can try red apple, ice plant, and jade plant too. Also look into Gazania, pansies, nasturtiums, carnations, geraniums and many others. At the grocery store, favor endive and escarole, but also use cilantro, carrot tops, mustard and turnip greens, bok choy, radiccio, swiss chard, watercress, parsley, all the lettuces, etc. Lots of variety is best. There are also tortoise "weed" seed mixes that you can grow. I like the "Testudo Mix" from Tortoisesupply.com.
Buckwheat; cactus; vetch; Mohave aster; creosote bush; desert four o’clock; tacoma stans; bladderpod; globe mallow; goldenhead; burro weed; so many things!
Feeding:
So much contradictory info on this subject. Its simple. What do they eat in the wild. Grass, weeds, leaves, flowers, and succulents. Feed them a huge variety of these things, and you'll have a healthy tortoise. All of these species are very adaptable when it comes to diet and there is a very large margin of error, and many ways to do it right. What if you don't have this sort of "natural" tortoise food available for part of each year because you are in the snow? You will have no choice but to buy grocery store food. What's wrong with grocery store food? It tends to lack fiber, some items are low in calcium or have a poor calcium to phosphorous ratio, and some items have deleterious compounds in them. All of these short comings can be improved with some simple supplementation and amendments. A pinch of calcium two times per week will help fix that problem. You can also leave cuttle bone in the enclosure, so your tortoise can self-regulate its own calcium intake. What about fiber? Soaked horse hay pellets, soaked ZooMed Grassland pellets, Mazuri tortoise chow, "Salad style", "Herbal Hay" both from @TylerStewart and his lovely wife Sarah at Tortoisesupply.com, or many of the dried plants and leaves available from Will @Kapidolo Farms. If you must use grocery store foods, favor endive and escarole as your main staples. Add in arugula, cilantro, kale, collard, mustard and turnip greens, squash leaves, spring mix, romaine, green or red leaf lettuce, butter lettuce, water cress, carrot tops, celery tops, bok choy, and whatever other greens you can find. If you mix in some of the aforementioned amendments, these grocery store foods will offer plenty of variety and fiber and be able to meet your tortoises nutritional needs just fine. I find it preferable to grab a few grapevine or mulberry leaves, or a handful of mallow and clover, or some broadleaf plantain leaves and some grass, but with the right additions, grocery store stuff is fine too. Grow your own stuff, or find it around you when possible. Tyler and Sarah also sell a fantastic Testudo seed mix that is great for ALL tortoise species and also super easy to grow in pots, trays, raised garden beds, or in outdoor tortoise enclosures. When that isn't possible, add a wide variety of good stuff to your grocery store greens to make them better.
Supplements:
I recommend you keep cuttle bone available all the time. Some never use it and some munch on it regularly. Some of mine will go months without touching it, and then suddenly eat the whole thing in a day or two. Sulcatas and leopards grow a lot. This requires a tremendous amount of calcium assimilation over time. A great diet is paramount, but it is still a good idea to give them some extra calcium regularly. I use a tiny pinch of RepCal or ZooMed plain old calcium carbonate twice a week. Much discussion has been given to whether or not they need D3 in their calcium supplement. Personally, I don't think it matters. Every tortoise should be getting adequate UV exposure one way or another, so they should be able to make their own D3. I also like to use a mineral supplement. "MinerAll" is my current brand of choice. It seems to help those tortoises that like to swallow pebbles and rocks. It is speculated that some tortoise eat rocks or substrate due to a mineral deficiency or imbalance. Whatever the reason, "MinerAll" seems to stop it or prevent it. Finally, I like to use a reptile vitamin supplement once a week, to round out any hidden deficiencies that may be in my diet over the course of a year.
Last edited:
Hello,
My leopard hatchling tortoise went to the vet today to check out his flaky skin. The vet told me he has never seen anything like it. That my tortoise is flaking in big chunks. The vet thinks it could be due to him soaking him frequently and that I should soak him only twice a week and put neosporine on the flaky/areas. I dont have neosporine at the moment so I am using organic coconut oil that someone on here recommended me. Also, the bet wanted to inject vitamins (D and C)but I declined that because he does NOT need more vitamins since I have been giving him that with his food. The vet did want Sheldon to get antibiotics (fortaz) which I did accept. After I got home from the vet I noticed that Sheldon was missing a nail and I know for a fact the nail was there when I took him. Unfortunately, due to covid I wasn’t able to go inside the hospital with Sheldon so I do not know exactly what happened but I am assuming they yanked his nail off by accident. I am really upset because they did not tell me anything and I am not sure if they even realized they ripped his nail off while examining Sheldons skin. I tried calling the vet but they were closed so I will try again first thing tomorrow morning . Do you guys think it will grow back? I will post a pick.
My leopard hatchling tortoise went to the vet today to check out his flaky skin. The vet told me he has never seen anything like it. That my tortoise is flaking in big chunks. The vet thinks it could be due to him soaking him frequently and that I should soak him only twice a week and put neosporine on the flaky/areas. I dont have neosporine at the moment so I am using organic coconut oil that someone on here recommended me. Also, the bet wanted to inject vitamins (D and C)but I declined that because he does NOT need more vitamins since I have been giving him that with his food. The vet did want Sheldon to get antibiotics (fortaz) which I did accept. After I got home from the vet I noticed that Sheldon was missing a nail and I know for a fact the nail was there when I took him. Unfortunately, due to covid I wasn’t able to go inside the hospital with Sheldon so I do not know exactly what happened but I am assuming they yanked his nail off by accident. I am really upset because they did not tell me anything and I am not sure if they even realized they ripped his nail off while examining Sheldons skin. I tried calling the vet but they were closed so I will try again first thing tomorrow morning . Do you guys think it will grow back? I will post a pick.
queen koopa
Well-Known Member
@Yvonne G
I am not sure about the nail, I tagged Yvonne. She knows it all.
Try avoiding the vet at all costs with tortoise. Most everything can be fixed with husbandry improvements. The exception is getting a hatching that was not started right from the breeder, then there may be no fixing.
I am not sure about the nail, I tagged Yvonne. She knows it all.
Try avoiding the vet at all costs with tortoise. Most everything can be fixed with husbandry improvements. The exception is getting a hatching that was not started right from the breeder, then there may be no fixing.
ZenHerper
Well-Known Member
It's really important to keep updates posted to the original thread...so that people do not have to ask you to repeat the entire history and post sets of photos of the entire tortoise, the enclosure, foods, supplements, etc..
You will get more relevant and helpful responses if you post this update to your original thread.
You will get more relevant and helpful responses if you post this update to your original thread.
Hello,
My leopard hatchling tortoise went to the vet today to check out his flaky skin. The vet told me he has never seen anything like it. That my tortoise is flaking in big chunks. The vet thinks it could be due to him soaking him frequently and that I should soak him only twice a week and put neosporine on the flaky/areas. I dont have neosporine at the moment so I am using organic coconut oil that someone on here recommended me. Also, the bet wanted to inject vitamins (D and C)but I declined that because he does NOT need more vitamins since I have been giving him that with his food. The vet did want Sheldon to get antibiotics (fortaz) which I did accept. After I got home from the vet I noticed that Sheldon was missing a nail and I know for a fact the nail was there when I took him. Unfortunately, due to covid I wasn’t able to go inside the hospital with Sheldon so I do not know exactly what happened but I am assuming they yanked his nail off by accident. I am really upset because they did not tell me anything and I am not sure if they even realized they ripped his nail off while examining Sheldons skin. I tried calling the vet but they were closed so I will try again first thing tomorrow morning . Do you guys think it will grow back? I will post a pick.
My leopard hatchling tortoise went to the vet today to check out his flaky skin. The vet told me he has never seen anything like it. That my tortoise is flaking in big chunks. The vet thinks it could be due to him soaking him frequently and that I should soak him only twice a week and put neosporine on the flaky/areas. I dont have neosporine at the moment so I am using organic coconut oil that someone on here recommended me. Also, the bet wanted to inject vitamins (D and C)but I declined that because he does NOT need more vitamins since I have been giving him that with his food. The vet did want Sheldon to get antibiotics (fortaz) which I did accept. After I got home from the vet I noticed that Sheldon was missing a nail and I know for a fact the nail was there when I took him. Unfortunately, due to covid I wasn’t able to go inside the hospital with Sheldon so I do not know exactly what happened but I am assuming they yanked his nail off by accident. I am really upset because they did not tell me anything and I am not sure if they even realized they ripped his nail off while examining Sheldons skin. I tried calling the vet but they were closed so I will try again first thing tomorrow morning . Do you guys think it will grow back? I will post a pick.
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harrythetortoise
Well-Known Member
I am not a vet nor a tortoise expert but I’m pretty certain that “frequent soaking” did not cause the flaky skin issue. And the missing nail! I would be so upset, too. Ugh sorry to hear this!
I would try the neosporin as they suggested to see if it helps - you can get it OTC. I don’t think it would do any harm, at least.
Keep us posted!
Jan A
Well-Known Member
And I'd definitely put some neosporin where that nail got yanked out since it looks a little bloody in the photo.
A bad vet killed my cat. I know your anger!
This is why we warn people about Vets and torts. They often dont know what they are talking about. They almost always prescribe vit injections and antibiotics because they dont know whats wrong.
I would get some Betadine or Chlorhexadine (hibiscrub) and mix up a big bowl of it and soak the whole torts body in it, and then use a toothbrush to scrub the the torts head and other parts you cant submerge. Just from what we see, this is either some kind of skin disease or its systemic. The biocide bath should help to kill anything skin surface related. I cant say this will help, but it wont hurt and it may help.
I recall reading that torts with Yellow spot disease can lose nails, heres hoping yours does not have that.
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There is no reason to think soaking could have caused this. But regardless of why it's happening, that dead skin will hopefully, eventually fall off. So I think the issue is to make sure the new skin growing in is healthy. Keeping him well hydrated is very important to help that new skin, and to keep all those nooks and crannies from accumulating any dirt or gunk that could start festering.
I look forward to hearing what Yvonne says. I don't think there is anything that she hasn't handled over the past 30 years.
I look forward to hearing what Yvonne says. I don't think there is anything that she hasn't handled over the past 30 years.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2017
- Messages
- 5,750
- Location (City and/or State)
- Low desert 50 mi SE of Palm Springs CA
@Yvonne G or other mod. Could you merge this thread with the OP's other thread, Help my tortoise Sheldon? Thank you!
(I merged the two threads)
Like I said originally, I'm pretty sure the peeling skin is due to an overdose of supplements. You should only put a very tiny pinch (a pinch means take your thumb and index finger and take up a tiny bit of calcium between them) of calcium over the food two or three times a week, and a few drops of liquid bird vitamins in the soaking water a couple times a month.
I would discontinue ALL supplements until you stop seeing the peeling skin.
I would discontinue ALL supplements until you stop seeing the peeling skin.
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ZenHerper
Well-Known Member
Since nails are essentially an extension of the skin, anything affecting the skin can invade the nail beds as well. An OTC triple-antibiotic ointment like you would use for cuts at home is fine to dab on that open skin.
There are few things that can kill and slough off deep sections of skin like this. The most common (in the absence of other more specific symptoms) is overdose of vitamin supplements (notably, vitamin A...but others such as vitamin C as well). Your photo of the Calcium Plus does show the label and it reads "Vitamin and Calcium Supplement". Check the ingredient panel for more details about what is actually in the product (not all OTC pet companies will give out what vitamins and amounts are in their products...be vary wary of "Proprietary Blends").
I guess soaking in overly-hot water might cause this kind of generalized damage. The blistered appearance of the plastron is odd. Be sure that there are no slate, brick, or rock platforms placed directly under a heating element so that there is no chance of basking on an overly-hot surface. Never use a plug-in "hot rock".
Soaking in warm, clear water is not harmful, as long as the water is safe for drinking as well.
I am cautious of using an oil on skin like this because blocking access to fresh air may incubate ordinary bacteria and fungal agents that can overtake the immune system and invade deeper tissues.
I would say that the veterinary office that saw you is not as familiar with reptile medicine as they represented to you. It can be hard to find qualified help in general, and especially for situations that are not straight-forward. I'm not sure where you are located, but sometimes someone can make a recommendation if you are safe and able to say what state/locale you are in.
There are few things that can kill and slough off deep sections of skin like this. The most common (in the absence of other more specific symptoms) is overdose of vitamin supplements (notably, vitamin A...but others such as vitamin C as well). Your photo of the Calcium Plus does show the label and it reads "Vitamin and Calcium Supplement". Check the ingredient panel for more details about what is actually in the product (not all OTC pet companies will give out what vitamins and amounts are in their products...be vary wary of "Proprietary Blends").
I guess soaking in overly-hot water might cause this kind of generalized damage. The blistered appearance of the plastron is odd. Be sure that there are no slate, brick, or rock platforms placed directly under a heating element so that there is no chance of basking on an overly-hot surface. Never use a plug-in "hot rock".
Soaking in warm, clear water is not harmful, as long as the water is safe for drinking as well.
I am cautious of using an oil on skin like this because blocking access to fresh air may incubate ordinary bacteria and fungal agents that can overtake the immune system and invade deeper tissues.
I would say that the veterinary office that saw you is not as familiar with reptile medicine as they represented to you. It can be hard to find qualified help in general, and especially for situations that are not straight-forward. I'm not sure where you are located, but sometimes someone can make a recommendation if you are safe and able to say what state/locale you are in.
Thank you so much I will look for that biocide to bathe him in!
ArmadilloPup
Well-Known Member
This advice is right on. Don't use oil on broken skin. I've seen this a few times. A client would slather on petroleum or coconut oil on their animals with skin issues, and it just made the skin more irritated as yeast and fungus settled in. Medicinal soaks are the best way, and you can softly dab dry/gently rub off flakes.
Youngsters also need fairly high humidity to grow and heal.
How is Sheldon doing?
I had a vet kill my 17 year old Sulcata
