HELP WITH BOX TURTLE HIBERNATION! VET DIDN'T OFFER MUCH HELP

[gabby.santana]

So today I took Oliver, my box turtle to the vet for the first time because I believed he had worms and wanted to deworm him. However, once there I felt as if the vet did not know what she was talking about despite her advertisement that she sees and treats reptiles. The first thing she told me was that Oliver was in fact was a female, despite Oliver having bright red eyes. She also told me the best place for a Box Turtle is inside the home and when I told her that Oliver lives in a spacious enclosure outside and sleeps inside a hut we made him she said that he required a heating lamp and uv lamp that needs to be on all the time. She said the heating lamp needed to be set at 80-90 degrees during the day and 70 during the night. Oliver has a minor respiratory infection and she gave me antibiotics for it, therefore she said Oliver can't not hibernate and must stay in his hut with the lamp and uv lamp on all the time. My confusion is that I have read and been told from experienced box turtle owners that they thrive outside and many box owners that I have come to know and have read about their experiences on box turtles they do not use heat lamps nor uv lamps. Right now we are keeping Oliver inside during the nights; however, I do not know to what to get to keep him warm or if it is needed. I also don't know how to keep him warm during the winter. Would a heating pad be enough for him during the day when he is outside instead of a heat lamp? Then bringing him inside during the night? During the winter does he need a uv light since I am thinking he is going to be in his hut during the day? When inside the house during the nights does he still need a light or a uv light? Also is it unhealthy for me not to hibernate Oliver as for the next coming winters? Do box turtles need to hibernate in order to maintain healthy when the temperature of their habitat is very warm?
Much much much help would be greatly
appreciated!!!!!! [img src="http://www.tortoiseforum.org/images/hearticon.png" class="mceSmilie" alt=":

 

[dmmj]

go to vets for medical advice not husbandry advice. I do agree on one thing with your vet if he's sick don't hibernate. if you do keep him up during the winter you'll need a heat lamp a pad probably won't do it

 

[wellington]

I agree with dmmj about a vet telling you how to house a tortoise/turtle.
While outside in the sunshine, they do not need added heat or UVB unless it is cold. At night, depending on what your temps are at night, he might need added heat. While he is recovering I would keep him warm day and night, around 80 but with a basking spot of 95-100.

 

[gabby.santana]

I live in the Central Valley in California, right now it being October, the coldest its getting is 80-85 degrees outside. At night however, the temperature drastically drops to probably 55-60 degrees. We are bringing Oliver in at night, especially because he has a respiratory infection and leaving him in his enclosure during the day, as I said the days are still pretty warm. Oliver is going to be living inside during the winter months; however, my question revolves around the heat lamps. Right now where we have his inside enclosure is inside our computer room and most of the time the computer is being used. Throughout the winter the house stays around 80 degrees and we also turn on our fireplace. I know he is going to need a UV light but will he still need a heat lamp? I was advised to buy a Mercury Vapor Bulb and a Ceramic Heat emitter but I am worried that I am going to overheat him since he is going to be inside a warm room as it is. I understand he needs a warm temp to help fight off his infection but I am wondering if he even needs a heat lamp? Should I just only get him a uv lamp? Does he need constant heat day and night?
Thank you guys for all your feedback, it is very helpful!

 

[wellington]

I would keep him warm day and night at least 80-85 until he is better. If it's still warm 80 outside, get a Che for the nights inside. When it's too cold for him to be outside during the day, then get a mvb. If you also put the Che on a thermostat, he won't get too hot and also be sure he has a hide, water and room to get out from under the Che and the mvb

 

[gabby.santana]

Thank you so much! I just ordered the bulbs and their light fixtures. How long do the mvb and che last?

 

[terryo]

For a sick box turtle, I would keep the CHE on 24/7, maintaining around 80 degrees throughout the vivarium. I would use a long tube UVB for day time. If he has warm humidity it's OK. I wouldn't put him outside now until he's better. I have some CHE's that are well over a year old and still going strong.

 

[gabby.santana]

I have a mvb, how many hours should that be on, if the room he is in stays at 79-82 degrees through out the whole day.

 

[Ferretinmyshoes]

I have several red eyed females (yep, they lay eggs) so eyes are not necessarily the definitive characteristic for sexing. Vent distance from the shell and tail length are more reliable. If he is sick then you are correct that he should not be hibernated. I am a huge fan of box turtles (and all reptiles really) being outside for as much of the year as possible given the habitat needs are being met. When outdoors in suitable environments you do not need any heat lamps or UVB bulbs, but indoors you do. You want to mimic the daylight cycle so any light emitting bulbs should be on about the same time as the sun is up, then darkness at night. Basking temp needs to be maintained, even if your house is warm so that there is a temperature gradient. So there should be a warm spot of 90-95 degrees in one corner and the rest can be cooler. If your house stays at 80 degrees (whew that's warm) then he will have no desire to hibernate at all! I leave my box turtles outside at night for those temps. I bring mine in or give them supplemental heat when it drops into the 40's.

What symptoms of a URI does your turtle have? It doesn't sound like you were very impressed with the vet's assessment so how confident are we about the diagnosis?

 

[Tijjer]

I wouldn't go through the trouble of hibernation. From what I've heard hibernation isn't needed with captive species, unless you are thinking about breeding. (Don't count me 100% I'm still learning more about our shelled friends)

 

[gabby.santana]

@Ferretinmyshoes His heat lamps are on the way! They should be here by tomorrow! The just didn't seem like she didn't know very much about what she was talking about. She said he was female then she said his underbelly was a bit concaved so he can mount a mate...so I was very confused. I didn't even know he was sick. I believe, she pressed his tail inside of him and bubbles started coming out his mouth and she said that was a sign of UPI, she said she could hear a bit wheezing and said his infection was minor and prescribed me some baytril injections. but I later found out that baytril is very painful and should not be injected in his hind legs like she showed me to do. I wish she would have told me that that type of medicine is painful and has a whole lot of symptoms. So I was advised by another member here to add saline solution to baytril to ease the sting when injecting him or to give it to him orally but he never wants to open his mouth for me. I was also advised to inject it into his food but i'm scared the medicine is gonna ooze out when he bites it and it will go to waste, he also isn't the greatest eater. So I don't know if I should try orally, or pack it into his food, like perhaps a worm, or do I just keep injecting him in his hind legs with diluted baytril.

 

[gabby.santana]

@Tijjer thank you that is what I thought too but I just wanted a second opinion from another owner.

 

[gabby.santana]

@Ferretinmyshoes i read your other comment that you posted on my other question so now I know what to do. So thanks again!

 

[Ferretinmyshoes]

She said he was female then she said his underbelly was a bit concaved so he can mount a mate...so I was very confused.

Yeah concave plastron (underbelly) is a male trait. If you want to post some pictures of the plastron and especially of the tail we can help tell you if male or female but sounds male.

I didn't even know he was sick. I believe, she pressed his tail inside of him and bubbles started coming out his mouth and she said that was a sign of UPI, she said she could hear a bit wheezing and said his infection was minor and prescribed me some baytril injections.

That does sound like some symptoms of URI at least. I prefer not to use baytril in my turtle patients and if I do I give it orally or at least dilute it like Yvonne described.