Humid Hide for Hermann's

Lewis12345

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Hi everybody! I'm thinking of setting up a humid hide for my t.h.b and I'm a bit unsure of the perfect conditions for this. Sorry about posting so much today, it's just I'm so apprehensive to make my enclosure for Mr. T as perfect as can be!
I've taken a medium sized terracotta plant pot and removed a small segment of it, which I've lined the floor of the 'humid hide' with sphagnum moss. I removed the segment so that while inside he can burrow down to his hearts content ahaha
However, I'm worried that if it is too humid or too cold then my tort could develop she'll rot if he stayed in there for long periods of time, which teriffies me!
The relative humidity in the hide is approx 60% and the daytime temps are approximately 25 degrees c inside of it, however I'm not sure of the night temps in here, which is my concern.
Is there a minimum temp which a humid hide needs to be to prevent the risk of shell rot? I'm also thinking of concealing the entrance with a few plants, which I've heard can raise humidity. Here's a pic:image.jpg
Thanks for any advice and responses!
 

Tom

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Flower pots on their side are much too open to be used as a humid hide.

It looks like you are using that "Pets at Home" substrate with the limestone bits in it. I would switch that out right away and its an impaction hazard.

I let my russians drop down to 65-68F (19-20C) at night on damp substrate with no problems. I see no reason why it would be different for hermanni. They are not prone to shell rot and I've never seen one single case of shell rot in a hermannni, no matter how it was housed from wet humid Florida, to the cold damp UK, to hot dry Arizona, to the cold rainy Pacific Northwest.
 

Lewis12345

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Thanks for your advice, I think ill switch out the plant pot for plastic.
Chris, what is an impaction hazard? Thanks for your response
 

Tom

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Thanks for your advice, I think ill switch out the plant pot for plastic.
Chris, what is an impaction hazard? Thanks for your response

Chris is the Heramnni expert. I'm the one who mentioned the impaction. Impaction is basically a blockage in the intestine. Tortoises will eat bits of limestone and cuttle bone to self-manage their calcium intake. Encouraging a tortoise to eat its substrate to satisfy its calcium cravings is a BAD idea. That coupled with the sand in this substrate make it even more dangerous. Small amounts of sand will stick to the food bits and be swallowed daily. Over time, this sand can collect in the gut and cause a blockage.

Check out these care sheets:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

I wrote this one for russians, but care is essentially the same:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
 

Lewis12345

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So sorry Tom I wasn't ignoring your advice I just put the wrong name for some reason! I definitely will change the substrate then, impaction sounds awful! What do you recommend? Is just plain sterilised topsoil IE the home base own brand topsoil OK to use as it doesn't contain sand or limestone? Thank you again,
Lewis
 

Tom

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So sorry Tom I wasn't ignoring your advice I just put the wrong name for some reason! I definitely will change the substrate then, impaction sounds awful! What do you recommend? Is just plain sterilised topsoil IE the home base own brand topsoil OK to use as it doesn't contain sand or limestone? Thank you again,
Lewis

I don't like "topsoil" because there is no way to know what it is made of or what is in it. Around here they collect people's yard trimmings and compost all of that into "topsoil". It could be oleander or azaleas or it could be mulberry and hibiscus leaves. No way to know. It could also be chock full of all sorts of the lawn and garden chemicals that people constantly use. Fertilizers, anti-fungals and loads of pesticides of all kinds.

For all of the Testudo species, I prefer coco coir for babies, and I switch to fine grade orchid bark (fir bark) once they hit about 4" or so.
 

Lewis12345

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I don't like "topsoil" because there is no way to know what it is made of or what is in it. Around here they collect people's yard trimmings and compost all of that into "topsoil". It could be oleander or azaleas or it could be mulberry and hibiscus leaves. No way to know. It could also be chock full of all sorts of the lawn and garden chemicals that people constantly use. Fertilizers, anti-fungals and loads of pesticides of all kinds.

For all of the Testudo species, I prefer coco coir for babies, and I switch to fine grade orchid bark (fir bark) once they hit about 4" or so.
I wouldn't compost my own topsoil as I agree with you in that there would be all sorts of chemicals in it, but is the store bought stuff slightly better than what I have now to be used a a temporary? Also what is coconut coir and how expensive is it where can I buy it?
Thanks
 

Tom

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I wouldn't compost my own topsoil as I agree with you in that there would be all sorts of chemicals in it, but is the store bought stuff slightly better than what I have now to be used a a temporary? Also what is coconut coir and how expensive is it where can I buy it?
Thanks

You can buy coco coir or orchid bark in bulk at any garden center or you can order it online.

Coco coir is also called "Bed-A-Beast" or "Coco Bedding" or "Eco Earth". You can buy it in pet stores, but its more expensive that way. You'll need to wet it, let it absorb some water like a sponge, then put a thick layer into the enclosure and hand pack it down. It can be a little messy for the first couple of weeks, but it "settles in" nicely after that. I like at least 3-4" after I hand pack it.

Orchid bark is easier. Just put it in, spread it around, dump some water into it and its good to go.
 

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