Leopard Tortoise Enclosure

[Shellius Cresswellius]

Looking for some detailed assistance regarding the position and type of lighting and heating required for two leopard tortoises.
Background: location N. Ireland so the opportunity for outside time is limited. Age, two years and they have been together.
The new enclosures are both 60cm tall, 80cm wide and 180cm long. One is positioned on top of the other with a 10cm gap to allow easy access to wiring.
I have purchased everything bar the lighting and heating.

 

[TisMary]

Looking for some detailed assistance regarding the position and type of lighting and heating required for two leopard tortoises.
Background: location N. Ireland so the opportunity for outside time is limited. Age, two years and they have been together.
The new enclosures are both 60cm tall, 80cm wide and 180cm long. One is positioned on top of the other with a 10cm gap to allow easy access to wiring.
I have purchased everything bar the lighting and heating.

Hi @Shellius Cresswellius! I don't know Leopard tortoises, but there are many folks here who I'm sure can help you. Since you're in the Northern Ireland, you might also want to check out The Tortoise Table Forum. They're located in the UK and may be able to help you with local suppliers, vets etc. Good luck! You're on the right track - you're asking questions and that's a good thing! ?

 

[wellington]

Use tube florescent lights for uvb.
As for heat, ceramic heat emitters or better yet, radiant heat panels.
Use a regular 60 watt incandescent bulb if you can find them for a basking spot.

 

[wellington]

Be sure to check out the caresheet in the leopard or even sulcata section.

 

[Shellius Cresswellius]

I have been using Tom's guide to Leopard's care which, of course, conflicts with any and all advice given by the "expert" in the Reptile shop in Lisburn.
Should I position the basking lamps on alternate sides? Do I need UVA and an incandescent bulb? Is the purpose of LED bulbs only to light the enclosure? Since they will spend all of their time in their enclosures for how long should I run the UVA?
Lots of questions but I am anxious to separate them as I can already see signs of bullying but I want their setup to enable them to thrive rather than survive.

 

[wellington]

The tube florescent is the best bulbs out for needed uvb.
One basking spot and can be placed at one end. The incandescent bulb is used for the basking heat.
Ceramic heat emitters/radiant heat panel gives off heat but no light. No lights on at night just heat.
I run lights for 10-12 hours.
Glad you are trying to find your answers on this forum and not the so called experts out there.
Just remember, there can be a few different ways to do things on here too as things need to be adjusted to location and enclosures, etc.
Just be sure to get the correct info and then adjust if needed for your location and situation.
Example, someone in AZ may need only one heat source at night while someone in MI may need more.

 

[Shellius Cresswellius]

Thank you for all your assistance. I shall try to source two UV fluorescent tubes and holders and I will post photos of the finished articles in due course.

 

[Tom]

I have been using Tom's guide to Leopard's care which, of course, conflicts with any and all advice given by the "expert" in the Reptile shop in Lisburn.
Should I position the basking lamps on alternate sides? Do I need UVA and an incandescent bulb? Is the purpose of LED bulbs only to light the enclosure? Since they will spend all of their time in their enclosures for how long should I run the UVA?
Lots of questions but I am anxious to separate them as I can already see signs of bullying but I want their setup to enable them to thrive rather than survive.

Here is a simplified heating and lighting explanation:
There are four elements to heating and lighting:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. You'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
3. Light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In the UK, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html

 

[Shellius Cresswellius]

Informative and to the point.
Ijapa and Chelone will just have to slum it until I get their new enclosures just right.

 

[Lyn W]

Hi,
I have a leopard and because of our damp climate and cold temps - even in the summer - he lives indoors all year with access to the garden when ground temps reach at least 70F.
At about 4 years old and 9 inches long when I got him he was too big for a viv or table so he has his own adapted room with an insulated dog kennel as his hide, heated with a reptile radiator.
During the winter the room has a radiator on 24/7 to keep the ambient temps up with a che on standby for extra heat if needed. I have an arcadia T5 HO uvb tube for winter use and on prolonged cloudy days, with an arcadia flood basking bulb but he does love to find a sunny spot in the garden to bask in when the weather allows.

 

[Shellius Cresswellius]

My two guys are only two and I need to manage their temperature and humidity.
I had their two enclosures designed and built by a joiner who has explained that they can be expanded in due course.

 

[Lyn W]

My two guys are only two and I need to manage their temperature and humidity.
I had their two enclosures designed and built by a joiner who has explained that they can be expanded in due course.

Will you bring them in when the temps drop?

 

[Shellius Cresswellius]

They have only been outdoors for, at most, an hour a day. Their present enclosure is indoors as are their new enclosures.