Lighting help please

[LaLaP]

Fall has been so sunny here but it's almost over so I finally set up the UVB light today. I just wanna make sure I got it right. I have a 4 ft fixture with 2 bulbs. One is a T8 Arcadia 12% UVB and the other bulb is just a regular florecent for more light. I have it 15 inches above the substrate and very close to 2 flood lights for basking because that's where Diego spends most of his time when inside. The cool side is large but he just takes strolls there occasionally. Is this right?
PS . It looks dark because I have a terrible phone camera. Sorry.

 

[Minority2]

The cool side still seems like it would be very dark because of how all the lights are all kept in one area. I hang my fixtures directly in the middle lengthwise. Everything is well lit, even in the corners. Have you ever considered building an entire PVC frame to convert your current enclosure into a closed chamber style one?

Question. Are you also going to be using this enclosure/bed frame for guests? What would happen to the tortoise if or when this were to occur?

 

[LaLaP]

So I had to turn some of the lights off to get a photo but it is very bright in the room because I have 2 4ft light panels with 8 T5 blue spectrum bulbs each in the room. I'm growing vegetables in the room.. or trying it anyway. It's crazy bright in there. It looks dark in the photo mostly because I have a sh**ty phone but also because I had to turn some lights out just to get the photo to not be all white.
The frame will only be converted back to a bed next spring/summer when the weather allows for Diego to live outside full time again.
So any feedback about my questions?

 

[LaLaP]

Oh and I don't think I need a closed chamber because I have an adult Russian and also the humidity here in Oregon is rarely below 70 or 80 percent in the winter anyway. The whole room will be kept at 75 degrees during the day and 65 at night so a closed chamber doesn't offer anything different than an open table in my case.

 

[Minority2]

So I had to turn some of the lights off to get a photo but it is very bright in the room because I have 2 4ft light panels with 8 T5 blue spectrum bulbs each in the room. I'm growing vegetables in the room.. or trying it anyway. It's crazy bright in there. It looks dark in the photo mostly because I have a sh**ty phone but also because I had to turn some lights out just to get the photo to not be all white.
The frame will only be converted back to a bed next spring/summer when the weather allows for Diego to live outside full time again.
So any feedback about my questions?

I stand corrected. Though I have to say, the T5 blue spectrum bulbs may not be very effective depending on the current distance between the bulbs to the plant.

Oh and I don't think I need a closed chamber because I have an adult Russian and also the humidity here in Oregon is rarely below 70 or 80 percent in the winter anyway. The whole room will be kept at 75 degrees during the day and 65 at night so a closed chamber doesn't offer anything different than an open table in my case.

The humidity level inside a home is not the same as it is outside.

The reason why I usually recommend relatively high humidity (70-80%) for adult tortoises that come from arid climates such as Russians is because of the drying effect lighting fixtures have on indoor tortoises. Soakings in all honestly is just stop gap. It alone will not be enough for tortoises that are constantly in contact with hot bulbs. Having a closed chamber style enclosure will keep humidity levels stable and hopefully, slow the drying process down. Other elements such as types of foods offered, available water, and number of soakings thorough the week are also important factors to consider.

 

[JoesMum]

Oh and I don't think I need a closed chamber because I have an adult Russian and also the humidity here in Oregon is rarely below 70 or 80 percent in the winter anyway. The whole room will be kept at 75 degrees during the day and 65 at night so a closed chamber doesn't offer anything different than an open table in my case.

65 at night is fine for an adult Russian. They prefer it cooler.

If you are not going to hibernate your tort in winter, you need to make the enclosure as light and bright as possible by day. You have to kid your tort that it is still summer.

You may need to install extra non-UVB fluorescent lighting to achieve this.

 

[LaLaP]

I stand corrected. Though I have to say, the T5 blue spectrum bulbs may not be very effective depending on the current distance between the bulbs to the plant.



The humidity level inside a home is not the same as it is outside.

The reason why I usually recommend relatively high humidity (70-80%) for adult tortoises that come from arid climates such as Russians is because of the drying effect lighting fixtures have on indoor tortoises. Soakings in all honestly is just stop gap. It alone will not be enough for tortoises that are constantly in contact with hot bulbs. Having a closed chamber style enclosure will keep humidity levels stable and hopefully, slow the drying process down. Other elements such as types of foods offered, available water, and number of soakings thorough the week are also important factors to consider.

When I say the humidity is 70-80% I'm talking about indoors. It is 100% outside because it just rains and rains all winter. I have a gauge that measures humidity sitting on the substrate. It's been in the low 70's lately but it hasn't started raining yet. It's coming. Humidity is a real issue here... things in houses feel wet and often mold.

Any idea wether my UV light is the right distance from the substrate?

 

[LaLaP]

65 at night is fine for an adult Russian. They prefer it cooler.

If you are not going to hibernate your tort in winter, you need to make the enclosure as light and bright as possible by day. You have to kid your tort that it is still summer.

You may need to install extra non-UVB fluorescent lighting to achieve this.

The room is insanely bright due to a total of 10x 4ft florecent bulbs. I'm growing veggies in the room. Here is a photo of 2 light panels before I hung them...

 

[Minority2]

When I say the humidity is 70-80% I'm talking about indoors. It is 100% outside because it just rains and rains all winter. I have a gauge that measures humidity sitting on the substrate. It's been in the low 70's lately but it hasn't started raining yet. It's coming. Humidity is a real issue here... things in houses feel wet and often mold.

Any idea wether my UV light is the right distance from the substrate?

I got confused when you wrote degrees instead of humidity percentage in the above post. Mold is indeed a big issue with room humidity. This is one of the reasons why PVC and closed chamber styles are so appealing in that the high humidity levels will only affect the inside. Tarps and sealants are not permanent fixes. PVC is also not going to break down or rot away from being constantly having to deal with moist and wet conditions.

I am afraid I would be the wrong person to answer you UV light indoor planting question. Someone in the forum more experienced will be better suited for this.

 

[LaLaP]

I got confused when you wrote degrees instead of humidity percentage in the above post. Mold is indeed a big issue with room humidity. This is one of the reasons why PVC and closed chamber styles are so appealing in that the high humidity levels will only affect the inside. Tarps and sealants are not permanent fixes. PVC is also not going to break down or rot away from being constantly having to deal with moist and wet conditions.

I am afraid I would be the wrong person to answer you UV light indoor planting question. Someone in the forum more experienced will be better suited for this.

Yes mold is a real problem here. Trust me.. if I could keep the humidity down in my house by building a closed chamber I would. It will be 80% everywhere in my house, tortoises or no tortoises, closed chamber or not.

I'm not asking about UV planting.
I'm asking about my Arcadia 12% UVB light (For reptiles) being 15 inches from the substrate and wether that is the proper height for that bulb and my tort. I guess I wasn't very clear in my original post cause we've talked about everything but my question. That is my only question.

 

[Minority2]

Yes mold is a real problem here. Trust me.. if I could keep the humidity down in my house by building a closed chamber I would. It will be 80% everywhere in my house, tortoises or no tortoises, closed chamber or not.

I'm not asking about UV planting.
I'm asking about my Arcadia 12% UVB light (For reptiles) being 15 inches from the substrate and wether that is the proper height for that bulb and my tort. I guess I wasn't very clear in my original post cause we've talked about everything but my question. That is my only question.

Having lived down south for a number of years I can say that I am very experienced with mold. Have you ever considered using a home dehumidifier?

UV(B) should be best measured with a solarmeter 6.5. This is the current most accurate way to know.

 

[LaLaP]

Having lived down south for a number of years I can say that I am very experienced with mold. Have you ever considered using a home dehumidifier?

UV(B) should be best measured with a solarmeter 6.5. This is the current most accurate way to know.

I have 2 dehumidifiers. One in my bedroom and one in my garage (which is my work space). They make a little difference.

 

[Minority2]

I have 2 dehumidifiers. One in my bedroom and one in my garage (which is my work space). They make a little difference.

Portable units are not going to be as effective as home or stand alone units. Figuring out the cause and source of the humidity is also important. Sealing and or venting key affected areas around the home should help to control and keep humidity levels below 60%.