DirtyDogs304

New Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2024
Messages
5
Location (City and/or State)
WV
After a lot of research I finally found a breeder that I felt comfortable with and got my very first tortoise. I think he looks great but I’m very new to this so I was hoping you all could let me know if you see any concerns. He’s eating, drinking, using bathroom well. He’s very active but puts himself to bed (burrows a little bit in his hide) every night when he’s had enough. I think its adorable! His enclosure has several hides and he has tried them all but I think he’s picked a favorite which happened to be the most difficult one to get to… but he’s a determined little guy. He does a lot exploring and loves to climb. He fell on his back once but had himself flipped back over rather quickly. However when I returned home today I found him on his back and not moving at all. I was certain he was dead! Thankfully I was wrong. Once I flipped him over he went right back to exploring and eating. I gave him a soak just in case he had become dehydrated or stressed. He seems completely ok. But I want to make sure that doesn’t happen again so I added some more substrate and rocks in an attempt to get rid off any big drop offs and provide rocks for traction if he does get wrong side up again.
This enclosure is temporary and I will soon be extending it and adding some live plants. It’s hard to tell from the pictures but it has lots of hills and different levels to climb.
In the pictures I had just added the additional substrate and it was moist and cold so my temp & humidity is out of wack but that’ll be straightened up soon.
Also- he is in a soak for most of the pictures. He doesn’t have any type of drainage, just wet (just in case it appeared that way).
I have read the care sheets posted here and months of research and Im trying to follow what seems to be the best ways But there are sooooooo many ”best ways”.

QUESTIONS:
any suggestions on my set up? See anything dangerous?

and any idea if he is really a “he”? I’m told he’s a yearling and it’s too early to tell but we named him “Mikey” for now.

is he an Eastern?

I currently have a 75 watt heat bulb but it only keeps the basking spot at 85-90. Would a 100watt make it too hot? I have the 75watt and the uvb in a dome and it sits directly on top of the plastic lid over a cut out hole. I was also concerned a 100 watt would melt the plastic lid. I was hoping that I wouldn’t have to hang the light but I can if necessary.

I’ve been soaking him at least 20 minutes daily so I only have a small water bowl that stays in the enclosure. Is that ok?

how does he look? any noticeable concerns?
The substrate does get a bit messy. Should I try adding orchid bark to the top layer?
 

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Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
63,483
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
I see a few things. I find it easier to list them.
1. You need to hang the light. If you lower the one you have now it will get appropriately warmer and you won't need a new bulb. Its best to be able to raise or lower your bulb to adjust for seasonal changes too. Suspending it is also much safer because the bulbs can't get knocked over or misplaced when its off, and then start a fire.
2. Coco coir is fine, but use much more and hand pack it firmly. Its too messy and too hard for the tortoise to walk on when its all loose like that.
3. Get rid of that ramp that the tortoise is climbing on. Its not safe. This is not an arboreal lizard. Torts need floor space.
4. Orchid bark is a better substrate, but I wouldn't put orchid bark on top of coco coir. Just get rid of the coir and replace it with orchid bark. You need 3-4 inches.
5. UV in a dome, is the wrong type of UV bulb. CFL types can burn their eyes and they are not effective UV sources anyway.
Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
6. Get a large terra cotta saucer for water. It should be large enough for the tortoise to walk in and soak.
7. You have an Eastern. If you had paid for a Western, you would know it.

That's it for now. Questions are welcome.
 

Ink

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jun 10, 2016
Messages
2,522
Location (City and/or State)
Virginia
Welcome to the forum. Cute tortoise.
 

TammyJ

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2016
Messages
7,258
Location (City and/or State)
Jamaica
Welcome to a great tortoise forum!
 

Cowgirl

Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jul 27, 2022
Messages
72
Location (City and/or State)
Sacramento, California
After a lot of research I finally found a breeder that I felt comfortable with and got my very first tortoise. I think he looks great but I’m very new to this so I was hoping you all could let me know if you see any concerns. He’s eating, drinking, using bathroom well. He’s very active but puts himself to bed (burrows a little bit in his hide) every night when he’s had enough. I think its adorable! His enclosure has several hides and he has tried them all but I think he’s picked a favorite which happened to be the most difficult one to get to… but he’s a determined little guy. He does a lot exploring and loves to climb. He fell on his back once but had himself flipped back over rather quickly. However when I returned home today I found him on his back and not moving at all. I was certain he was dead! Thankfully I was wrong. Once I flipped him over he went right back to exploring and eating. I gave him a soak just in case he had become dehydrated or stressed. He seems completely ok. But I want to make sure that doesn’t happen again so I added some more substrate and rocks in an attempt to get rid off any big drop offs and provide rocks for traction if he does get wrong side up again.
This enclosure is temporary and I will soon be extending it and adding some live plants. It’s hard to tell from the pictures but it has lots of hills and different levels to climb.
In the pictures I had just added the additional substrate and it was moist and cold so my temp & humidity is out of wack but that’ll be straightened up soon.
Also- he is in a soak for most of the pictures. He doesn’t have any type of drainage, just wet (just in case it appeared that way).
I have read the care sheets posted here and months of research and Im trying to follow what seems to be the best ways But there are sooooooo many ”best ways”.

QUESTIONS:
any suggestions on my set up? See anything dangerous?

and any idea if he is really a “he”? I’m told he’s a yearling and it’s too early to tell but we named him “Mikey” for now.

is he an Eastern?

I currently have a 75 watt heat bulb but it only keeps the basking spot at 85-90. Would a 100watt make it too hot? I have the 75watt and the uvb in a dome and it sits directly on top of the plastic lid over a cut out hole. I was also concerned a 100 watt would melt the plastic lid. I was hoping that I wouldn’t have to hang the light but I can if necessary.

I’ve been soaking him at least 20 minutes daily so I only have a small water bowl that stays in the enclosure. Is that ok?

how does he look? any noticeable concerns?
The substrate does get a bit messy. Should I try adding orchid bark to the top layer?
He/she sure is adorable!
 

EppsDynasty

Well-Known Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Oct 4, 2022
Messages
790
Location (City and/or State)
Canebrake Ca
I see a few things. I find it easier to list them.
1. You need to hang the light. If you lower the one you have now it will get appropriately warmer and you won't need a new bulb. Its best to be able to raise or lower your bulb to adjust for seasonal changes too. Suspending it is also much safer because the bulbs can't get knocked over or misplaced when its off, and then start a fire.
2. Coco coir is fine, but use much more and hand pack it firmly. Its too messy and too hard for the tortoise to walk on when its all loose like that.
3. Get rid of that ramp that the tortoise is climbing on. Its not safe. This is not an arboreal lizard. Torts need floor space.
4. Orchid bark is a better substrate, but I wouldn't put orchid bark on top of coco coir. Just get rid of the coir and replace it with orchid bark. You need 3-4 inches.
5. UV in a dome, is the wrong type of UV bulb. CFL types can burn their eyes and they are not effective UV sources anyway.
Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
6. Get a large terra cotta saucer for water. It should be large enough for the tortoise to walk in and soak.
7. You have an Eastern. If you had paid for a Western, you would know it.

That's it for now. Questions are welcome.
@Tom ... You are ALWAYS here to help newbies and unknowers (my word), what a true gift you are to these people. To spend your own time and over and over and over and over and over (think ya get it) say the very same things is something I don't think they get. It truly is a sacrifice on your own part for nothing more than a tort being more comfortable. Much Respect !
 

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