So by 6x3 tort table should be done in a week or so... I wanted to start making a check list of everything i need.. From type of substrate mix.. To lighting, heating accesiories..
Any suggestions? Thanks..
Any suggestions? Thanks..
New home checklist!
- Thread starter jareeed2
- Start date
- Status
M
Maggie Cummings
Guest
Substrate, cypress mulch, orchid bark fine grade, coir. Redfoots don't need lighting but when I babysit my friends 2 I use a yellow bulb. Plants, pothos mostly. Hides, water dish big enough for soaking. Guess that's all I can think of...
Meg give what do you mean red foots don't need lighting?
Maggie sorry stupid iphone
Maggie sorry stupid iphone
My checklist would be:
1. Ensuring that the bottom several inches is completely watertight and escape-proof, tolerant of some abuse.
2. Build at least a partial cover, or ensure that the room itself is heated and humidified to the right level- although when I did that, I got a lot of mold/mildew on the walls and window frames. Yuck.
3. Establish a lighting routine. For a 6x3, I might go with a 36-48" low-output UVB bulb set to run for about 6-8 hours a day, and a slightly shorter 'daylight' or 'warm white' bulb to run about 12 hours a day.
4. Determine your heating and humidity needs based on what the room is like. If you are like me here in Omaha in an older house, I need to work in a room with low humidity and about 70ish temps. I would use some under-soil heating cables to create warmth and humidity. I would also build at least a tent over the table with a small utility heater and humidifier inside it to warm/humidify it further. Both would be on thermostats or other regulators.
5. Determine your substrate needs. I'd go with cypress most of the time- lighter, cheaper, good drainage and humidity support, etc. If the weight and difficulty of moving it in and out for cleaning, etc. is not a concern, I'd do a bioactive substrate.
6. Feeding station, pan, rock, or dish (I use folded newspapers and just toss them, along with any feces I find) every day. Water dish- I found some plastic sauces at Home Depot that are supposed to simulate clay. Cheap enough that I bought several so I can pull one out to wash and drop in another one. Position them both closer to the center line of the habitat so animals walking along the edges are not tromping through it all the time.
7. Lots of live plants and hiding spaces.
1. Ensuring that the bottom several inches is completely watertight and escape-proof, tolerant of some abuse.
2. Build at least a partial cover, or ensure that the room itself is heated and humidified to the right level- although when I did that, I got a lot of mold/mildew on the walls and window frames. Yuck.
3. Establish a lighting routine. For a 6x3, I might go with a 36-48" low-output UVB bulb set to run for about 6-8 hours a day, and a slightly shorter 'daylight' or 'warm white' bulb to run about 12 hours a day.
4. Determine your heating and humidity needs based on what the room is like. If you are like me here in Omaha in an older house, I need to work in a room with low humidity and about 70ish temps. I would use some under-soil heating cables to create warmth and humidity. I would also build at least a tent over the table with a small utility heater and humidifier inside it to warm/humidify it further. Both would be on thermostats or other regulators.
5. Determine your substrate needs. I'd go with cypress most of the time- lighter, cheaper, good drainage and humidity support, etc. If the weight and difficulty of moving it in and out for cleaning, etc. is not a concern, I'd do a bioactive substrate.
6. Feeding station, pan, rock, or dish (I use folded newspapers and just toss them, along with any feces I find) every day. Water dish- I found some plastic sauces at Home Depot that are supposed to simulate clay. Cheap enough that I bought several so I can pull one out to wash and drop in another one. Position them both closer to the center line of the habitat so animals walking along the edges are not tromping through it all the time.
7. Lots of live plants and hiding spaces.
Madkins007 said:
Im really wanma do a bioactive substrate.. Any tips?
Is the "white warm" bulb the same as a CHE.?
How should i make the bottom water tight?
My rooms probaly low 70"s and low humidity (basement)
Bioactive- https://sites.google.com/site/tortoiselibrary/the-work-shop/substrates-1
Warm white- fluorescent bulbs come in lots of 'tints'. Cool white is a blueish bulb, warm white is yellowish. UVB bulbs put out a lot of cool white light, using warm whites (warm, daylight, super white, deluxe white, etc.) helps to offer a more 'true' white, which is probably helpful for eye development and helps plants, etc. as well.
Water tight- the easiest way is to line it with some plastic or rubber material- I used a blue tarp, others have used shower curtains, etc.
Your typical basement needs a lot of temp support to be comfortable, and can be pretty dry or pretty damp. If damp, you may not need to worry about a lot of humidity. If it is dry, you'll want a good plan.
Warm white- fluorescent bulbs come in lots of 'tints'. Cool white is a blueish bulb, warm white is yellowish. UVB bulbs put out a lot of cool white light, using warm whites (warm, daylight, super white, deluxe white, etc.) helps to offer a more 'true' white, which is probably helpful for eye development and helps plants, etc. as well.
Water tight- the easiest way is to line it with some plastic or rubber material- I used a blue tarp, others have used shower curtains, etc.
Your typical basement needs a lot of temp support to be comfortable, and can be pretty dry or pretty damp. If damp, you may not need to worry about a lot of humidity. If it is dry, you'll want a good plan.
Also keep in mind that damp basements are also prone to mold and mildew. It may be smart to run the dehumidifier, then run a humidifier in the partially enclosed habitat if you need more.
Often, the best thing to do is to just build it, and see how it goes. In an ideal world, we would always build an animal habitat, then let it 'run' for a couple weeks to make sure it is going to be OK. In your case, some experimentation would probably really help.
Often, the best thing to do is to just build it, and see how it goes. In an ideal world, we would always build an animal habitat, then let it 'run' for a couple weeks to make sure it is going to be OK. In your case, some experimentation would probably really help.
- Status
Similar threads
New Posts
-
-
-
-
-
Urgent: Need Experienced Home for 2-Year-Old Dalmatian Hermann’s Tortoise- Latest: Godzilla the Tortoise
-
-
-
