New tortoise may be dying

[Nugget8581]

Hi,
A friend was giving away a tortoise, so we took it home yesterday. It was perky during the day and then stopped moving last night. Today it barely moved but would pulse it's head and front legs occasionally. The back legs are out. It hasn't eaten or had any water.
We don't know what to do with it and are afraid it's dying. It was under its uv light all day but seems so weak. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[Avuwyy]

I’m not great with non-African tortoise species so I won’t be able to identify this species of tortoise, but I’ll make sure to make a note or two to make the enclosure more accommodating for a tortoise.

I don’t know if the substrate you’re using is hay pellets? With how dark it is I’m struggling to identify that. If so, this substrate needs to be changed. It doesn’t hold humidity well and can become mouldy when moisture falls into the substrate. Most keepers here will recommend a substrate of coco coir, cypress mulch, or orchid bark (Or a mix). These hold humidity well, and are a more natural substrate for tortoises.

If the head and arms are moving, that means they are breathing. This is fine.
If they are wheezing, hissing, gaping their mouth, and stretching their neck and legs far out in an attempt to catch breaths, these are symptoms of a respiratory infection. Watch out for these.

- How big is the enclosure, and is it open topped?
- What temperatures are is the enclosure’s cool side, and basking spot?
- What humidity is the enclosure currently being kept at?
- What heating, UVB, and lighting elements are you using for the enclosure? (Unsure if you took the picture at night when the enclosure is supposed to be dark?)
- What are you currently feeding the tortoise, or what was it fed prior to you taking it in?
- Have you soaked the tortoise at all since bringing it back?

These are some questions that you can answer to make it easier for us to identify things which will need to be altered to allow this tortoise to thrive.
Below are some additional questions that you may be able to answer to identify any current health problems. If you don’t know any answers to these questions, that’s fine.

[Before bringing a tortoise home - If possible]
- Check to see if the tortoise is active and moving about, are they able to hold their belly up from the substrate without dragging their limbs around weakly?
- Check their toes to see if they are all intact (Some species will have less foreclaws than others)
- Check if the tortoise’s beak and nails are kept trim, and are not curling or causing obstruction
- Check the nose to check if it is clear of debris. Check to see if the tortoise’s nose is wet, or bubbling
- Check the shell for scars, or shell rot
- Check the tortoise’s eyes to see if they are bright and alert, ensure their third eyelid isn’t cloaking their eye, and there is no sign of conjunctivitis

You can answer most of the following questions after giving the tortoise a soak and drying them off. Answering these can give some insight on the health of the animal you brought home.
A soak can rouse the tortoise and offer some much needed hydration. So in the meantime, I would suggest looking at changing that substrate, giving your tortoise a well needed soak, and answering as many of these questions as possible. This will help us help you.

 

[wellington]

First get it off the pellets and on proper substrate and in a proper enclosure with a low sided clay saucer for water. Temps 75-80 during the day, basking spot of 95-100 and 65 at night. Also needs a tube florescent uvb light.
Please read the caresheet under the Hermanns section Which is what I believe you have. (Don't know why this is typing bold)

 

[Nugget8581]

I’m not great with non-African tortoise species so I won’t be able to identify this species of tortoise, but I’ll make sure to make a note or two to make the enclosure more accommodating for a tortoise.

I don’t know if the substrate you’re using is hay pellets? With how dark it is I’m struggling to identify that. If so, this substrate needs to be changed. It doesn’t hold humidity well and can become mouldy when moisture falls into the substrate. Most keepers here will recommend a substrate of coco coir, cypress mulch, or orchid bark (Or a mix). These hold humidity well, and are a more natural substrate for tortoises.

If the head and arms are moving, that means they are breathing. This is fine.
If they are wheezing, hissing, gaping their mouth, and stretching their neck and legs far out in an attempt to catch breaths, these are symptoms of a respiratory infection. Watch out for these.

- How big is the enclosure, and is it open topped?
- What temperatures are is the enclosure’s cool side, and basking spot?
- What humidity is the enclosure currently being kept at?
- What heating, UVB, and lighting elements are you using for the enclosure? (Unsure if you took the picture at night when the enclosure is supposed to be dark?)
- What are you currently feeding the tortoise, or what was it fed prior to you taking it in?
- Have you soaked the tortoise at all since bringing it back?

These are some questions that you can answer to make it easier for us to identify things which will need to be altered to allow this tortoise to thrive.
Below are some additional questions that you may be able to answer to identify any current health problems. If you don’t know any answers to these questions, that’s fine.

[Before bringing a tortoise home - If possible]
- Check to see if the tortoise is active and moving about, are they able to hold their belly up from the substrate without dragging their limbs around weakly?
- Check their toes to see if they are all intact (Some species will have less foreclaws than others)
- Check if the tortoise’s beak and nails are kept trim, and are not curling or causing obstruction
- Check the nose to check if it is clear of debris. Check to see if the tortoise’s nose is wet, or bubbling
- Check the shell for scars, or shell rot
- Check the tortoise’s eyes to see if they are bright and alert, ensure their third eyelid isn’t cloaking their eye, and there is no sign of conjunctivitis

You can answer most of the following questions after giving the tortoise a soak and drying them off. Answering these can give some insight on the health of the animal you brought home.
A soak can rouse the tortoise and offer some much needed hydration. So in the meantime, I would suggest looking at changing that substrate, giving your tortoise a well needed soak, and answering as many of these questions as possible. This will help us help you.

We soaked him once tonight where he was on a dish with warm water. His eyes aren't really opening.

I'm attaching a picture of the light the person gave us and told us to put on the top of the tank.

The person who gave him to us had him on rabbit food.

 

[Tom]

We soaked him once tonight where he was on a dish with warm water. His eyes aren't really opening.

I'm attaching a picture of the light the person gave us and told us to put on the top of the tank.

The person who gave him to us had him on rabbit food.

You've got the wrong set up. Wrong lights and wrong substrate. Those CFL bulbs sometimes burn their eyes and should not be used. The spot bulb will cause pyramiding. The person you got the tortoise from did not know what they were doing, and almost certainly learned what they told you from someone else who did not know what they were doing either.

Please read this:

The Best Way To Raise Any Temperate Species Of Tortoise

I chose the title of this care sheet very carefully. Are there other ways to raise babies and care for adults? Yes. Yes there are, but those ways are not as good. What follows is the BEST way, according to 30 years of research and experimentation with hundreds of babies of many species. What is...

tortoiseforum.org

Little babies do't have time for you to learn these things that hard way. You've got to correct the problems immediately if you want the little one to survive.