not eating...

[VeryTinyTortoise]

i have officially had my tort for 6 days! I. Am. In. Love. he is gorgeous and i cant get enough of him, however i've noticed he isn't really eating, i've been taking photos of his food when i first put it down and at the end of the day and it looks pretty untouched. He does have some plants in his enclosure, a spider plant and a succulent and it looks like he may be nibbling at them but i don't think its enough, i don't know what to do and i'm really worried, any advice would be really appreciated.
thank you.

 

[JoesMum]

It is very common for them to not eat at first. They scared of the new home. They're scared of you.

You must have the temperatures correct in the enclosure though. If your tort is too hot or too cold it cannot be active.

What temperatures do you have warm side, cool side, directly under the basking lamp and overnight minimum? Are you measuring these with a temperature gun (spot temperatures) and a digital min/max thermometer (overnight)? Other thermometers aren't really accurate enough.

I always advise new owners to establish a routine so their Tortoise gets to know what to expect and when:

- Have the lights on a timer so they come on at the same time each day

- First thing, before your tort warms up properly, soak for at least 20 minutes in warm water. This is essential when they're not eating properly, but should be done daily for youngsters in any case.

- while your tort soaks, tidy the enclosure and place food.

- Replace your tort and walk away. Leave him alone to be brave and explore. Resist the temptation to watch as you are big and scary and may want to eat him as far as he is concerned.

Your tortoise is happiest with all 4 feet on the floor of a familiar space, so don't keep picking your tortoise up for cuddles or to roam your home. He needs to be stress free.

 

[VeryTinyTortoise]

It is very common for them to not eat at first. They scared of the new home. They're scared of you.

You must have the temperatures correct in the enclosure though. If your tort is too hot or too cold it cannot be active.

What temperatures do you have warm side, cool side, directly under the basking lamp and overnight minimum? Are you measuring these with a temperature gun (spot temperatures) and a digital min/max thermometer (overnight)? Other thermometers aren't really accurate enough.

I always advise new owners to establish a routine so their Tortoise gets to know what to expect and when:

- Have the lights on a timer so they come on at the same time each day

- First thing, before your tort warms up properly, soak for at least 20 minutes in warm water. This is essential when they're not eating properly, but should be done daily for youngsters in any case.

- while your tort soaks, tidy the enclosure and place food.

- Replace your tort and walk away. Leave him alone to be brave and explore. Resist the temptation to watch as you are big and scary and may want to eat him as far as he is concerned.

Your tortoise is happiest with all 4 feet on the floor of a familiar space, so don't keep picking your tortoise up for cuddles or to roam your home. He needs to be stress free.

Thankyou I have a thermometer that the pet shop suggested us to buy, being on here for a couple of days I can now see how unreliable pet stores can be so I should probably replace it?
When you say soak him first thing should that be in the morning, should I wake him up and bathe him or should I wait for him to wake up and then soak him? Also could you suggest some thermometers that I could buy?
Again thankyou. x

 

[JoesMum]

Thankyou I have a thermometer that the pet shop suggested us to buy, being on here for a couple of days I can now see how unreliable pet stores can be so I should probably replace it?
When you say soak him first thing should that be in the morning, should I wake him up and bathe him or should I wait for him to wake up and then soak him? Also could you suggest some thermometers that I could buy?
Again thankyou. x

Yes, haul him out and soak him first thing in the morning. Don't give him an option. Offer food straight after the soak.

For spot temperatures
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermometer-Zanmax-Non-Contact-Temperature-Indication/dp/B07CJ1SJYX/

Overnight you need a Ceramic Heat Emitter and a thermostat. Set the thermostat to 27C. If you don't have one of these it is likely too cold.

 

[VeryTinyTortoise]

Yes, haul him out and soak him first thing in the morning. Don't give him an option. Offer food straight after the soak.

For spot temperatures
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermometer-Zanmax-Non-Contact-Temperature-Indication/dp/B07CJ1SJYX/

Overnight you need a Ceramic Heat Emitter and a thermostat. Set the thermostat to 27C. If you don't have one of these it is likely too cold.

Which watt would you suggest for the Ceramic Heat Emitter? Also i’ve Heard of this mercury vapour bulb apparently it’s good?

 

[JoesMum]

A Mercury Vapour Bulb (MVB) is for daytime use only. It combines the basking lamp heat with UVB in one bulb. The downside is that they are expensive and that the UVB output fails long before the bulb actually blows. So, unless you have a UV meter to test it, then you must replace them at least every 9 months.

We prefer to recommend a standard reflective basking bulb and a separate UVB fluorescent tube as they work out cheaper in the long run. We don't recommend the compact UVB bulbs that look like low energy light bulbs as they cause eye problems in tortoises.

For general background heat by day, or for overnight heat without light, a Ceramic Heat Emitter is the only sensible option in an indoor enclosure such as you have. The thermostat will ensure that you don't cook or burn your tortoise as long as you mount it high enough. It must be under the cover of your enclosure though. And you must use a ceramic lamp holder for it as a plastic lamp holder will melt. I'd guess 75W would be plenty for your needs.

 

[VeryTinyTortoise]

A Mercury Vapour Bulb (MVB) is for daytime use only. It combines the basking lamp heat with UVB in one bulb. The downside is that they are expensive and that the UVB output fails long before the bulb actually blows. So, unless you have a UV meter to test it then you must replace them at least every 9 months.

We prefer to recommend a standard reflective basking bulb and a separate UVB fluorescent tube as they work out cheaper in the long run. We don't recommend the compact UVB bulbs that look like low energy light bulbs as they cause eye problems in tortoises.

For general background heat by day, or for overnight heat without light, a Ceramic Heat Emitter is the only sensible option in an indoor enclosure such as you have. The thermostat will ensure that you don't cook or burn your tortoise as long as you mount it high enough. It must be under the cover of your enclosure though. And you must use a ceramic lamp holder for it as a plastic lamp holder will melt. I'd guess 75W would be plenty for your needs.

Okay so a ceramic for night, regular for day and a UVB light strip/ tube? Could you suggest any good UVB tubes? Again thankyou so much

 

[JoesMum]

Okay so a ceramic for night, regular for day and a UVB light strip/ tube? Could you suggest any good UVB tubes? Again thankyou so much

Reptisun on Exo Terra 10.0 tubes will do the job.

The Ceramic Heat Emitter can run 24/7 as the thermostat ensures it only cuts in if needed. It will give you some backup heat should your basking bulb blow. The CHE is no good for basking, but it will keep your tortoise warmer!

 

[VeryTinyTortoise]

Reptisun on Exo Terra 10.0 tubes will do the job.

The Ceramic Heat Emitter can run 24/7 as the thermostat ensures it only cuts in if needed. It will give you some backup heat should your basking bulb blow. The CHE is no good for basking, but it will keep your tortoise warmer!

Okay thank you so much!!!

 

[VeryTinyTortoise]

Reptisun on Exo Terra 10.0 tubes will do the job.

The Ceramic Heat Emitter can run 24/7 as the thermostat ensures it only cuts in if needed. It will give you some backup heat should your basking bulb blow. The CHE is no good for basking, but it will keep your tortoise warmer!

Hello, it’s been a few days and I’ve been bathing him everyday for around 20 minuets and I’ve adjusted the lights, waiting to order some new ones but he still isn’t eating too much, also he isn’t active, he’ll walk around the enclosure throughout the day but he’ll mostly just sit under the spider plant, is this a sign of it being too hot or is he just not fully adjusted? I’m sorry for all the questions I just want to get it right

 

[JoesMum]

Hello, it’s been a few days and I’ve been bathing him everyday for around 20 minuets and I’ve adjusted the lights, waiting to order some new ones but he still isn’t eating too much, also he isn’t active, he’ll walk around the enclosure throughout the day but he’ll mostly just sit under the spider plant, is this a sign of it being too hot or is he just not fully adjusted? I’m sorry for all the questions I just want to get it right

You have only had him for a very short period of time and some tortoises are quicker than others to realise that their new home is safe. He feels safest when hidden away as it is less likely that he'll be spied and eaten. Some can take weeks to come round.

Stick to the routine and avoid pulling him out or staring at him other than when you are going through the morning routine. You are still a threat as far as he is concerned for now.

As for temperatures - get that temperature gun I linked to and check them. Without it you cannot be sure.

 

[VeryTinyTortoise]

You have only had him for a very short period of time and some tortoises are quicker than others to realise that their new home is safe. He feels safest when hidden away as it is less likely that he'll be spied and eaten. Some can take weeks to come round.

Stick to the routine and avoid pulling him out or staring at him other than when you are going through the morning routine. You are still a threat as far as he is concerned for now.

As for temperatures - get that temperature gun I linked to and check them. Without it you cannot be sure.

Okay thankyou for the reassurance

 

[Blackdog1714]

I treat my Russian like a grumpy wife- avoid, clean up, feed, and be very quiet when near!!!!

 

[Ella’s Gigi]

I have my little guy on a schedule like mine. His lights come on at 4:35am so he can wake up a bit. I take him out (dig him out if needed) and let him soak in warm water for 20-30 minutes. During this time I clean out any old food and give him new food, give him fresh water and spray his enclosure down. He normally poops in his bath so I clean that out and rinse him off before putting him back in his enclosure. I finish getting ready for work and let him be till I get home. I use a hand held digital laser thermometer in addition to a fixed digital thermometer to check the temps in his tank. I have a 50w CHE that I was leaving on for him at night because without it his enclosure was getting down to 64-65 degrees. I have recently turned it off because he seems to eat better and is more active during the day without the heat at night.

I also have a Arlo security camera which notifies me when he’s moving around or I can watch him live. It helped me not bug him but still see what he does all day.

I hope this helps

 

[VeryTinyTortoise]

I have my little guy on a schedule like mine. His lights come on at 4:35am so he can wake up a bit. I take him out (dig him out if needed) and let him soak in warm water for 20-30 minutes. During this time I clean out any old food and give him new food, give him fresh water and spray his enclosure down. He normally poops in his bath so I clean that out and rinse him off before putting him back in his enclosure. I finish getting ready for work and let him be till I get home. I use a hand held digital laser thermometer in addition to a fixed digital thermometer to check the temps in his tank. I have a 50w CHE that I was leaving on for him at night because without it his enclosure was getting down to 64-65 degrees. I have recently turned it off because he seems to eat better and is more active during the day without the heat at night.

I also have a Arlo security camera which notifies me when he’s moving around or I can watch him live. It helped me not bug him but still see what he does all day.

I hope this helps

yes it really did thanks! also dumb question but you're talking about degrees Fahrenheit?? also do you know what that is in Celsius?? thankyou

 

[JoesMum]

yes it really did thanks! also dumb question but you're talking about degrees Fahrenheit?? also do you know what that is in Celsius?? thankyou

Temperatures


Directly under the basking lamp 35-37C

For youngsters - no cooler than 26C day or night anywhere in the enclosure

Adult/sub adult Russians can go down to 16-18C at night. Yours isn't ready for this yet. It is too small


Few people are aware that you can type

Convert 95F to C

into Google and it will convert it for you. It's how I learned the key temperatures in both F and C

 

[Yvonne G]

Temperatures


Directly under the basking lamp 35-37C

For youngsters - no cooler than 26C day or night anywhere in the enclosure

Adult/sub adult Russians can go down to 16-18C at night. Yours isn't ready for this yet. It is too small


Few people are aware that you can type

Convert 95F to C

into Google and it will convert it for you. It's how I learned the key temperatures in both F and C

I'm not willing to learn. I'm 80 years old and Fahrenheit worked for me all these years. As long as we still use it here, I'm not going to put extra stuff into my memory banks.

 

[JoesMum]

I'm not willing to learn. I'm 80 years old and Fahrenheit worked for me all these years. As long as we still use it here, I'm not going to put extra stuff into my memory banks.

We had to learn here. I started school in the UK with imperial measurements and then they changed to metric. I am pretty good at both. Pretty much the entire world uses metric now, but I understand why you personally aren't converting any time soon.