I think why sulcatas might have more pyramiding is because they are one of the biggest tortoises. Most other tortoises don't get up to 90 pounds so the pyramiding can't get as bad.
dmmj said:So you are saying it is us?maggie3fan said:I believe we are on the fore-front of correct reptile medicine and keeping. We are learning NOW that humidity, diet, sun and exercise are an important part of preventing pyramiding. 10 years ago we did not think that humidity had anything to do with tort keeping or preventing pyramiding. Now it has everything to do with it. It is "we" who are changing the way tortoises are kept now. It is "we" who are using UVB lighting for tortoises kept inside. It is "we" who are changing the way chelonia are kept now. It is us, as a whole, who are the important part of learning and changing diet and the total way chelonia are kept now. I seriously do believe it is "us" the fore front of new ways to grow healthy and happy tortoises and turtles. We learn by experience and research and reading and mistakes. The same way we kept them 5 years ago is so completely different from the way we keep them now. So I really believe it is US as a whole who are the important part of chelonia keeping and medicine...I hope this makes sense to you as I am kinda sleepy but seriously excited by what we are doing now and I want everyone to know and see that it is US...who are so important now...US and not an egotistical us but an experienced searching learning us...
What about them? Do they have a say?
drgnfly2265 said:
It always looks like the cases with sulcatas are more "extreme". It sounds like there could be many causes. I wish that we could find out what causes it. Is their any possibility that it can be in their family geans?
TurtleTortoise said:What about hibernating? I have sorta read the end of pyramiding thread but would hibernation have an affect at all? Being cold and wet down in the moist dirt for almost half a year? I don't know much and I don't even know if sulcatas are supposed to hibernate but I'm just saying for any tort? And I'm new and again don't know much or read much, but why do turtles and box turtles not pyramid? They stay small, but is there a significant difference that they do or don't that tortoises do or don't?
I'm just saying is there ANY possibility that something other than diet, exercise, uv, and moisture/humidity could cause or affect pyramiding? Anything at all or have you found the best solution?
Here are some random ideas that tortoises might do in the wild:
1.Rub against rocks (totally random)
2.Travel long distances for food (exercise)
3.Burrow deep down to cold moisture (moisture/humidity)
4.hot dry sun (uv)
5.And sometimes they don't get food for a loooong time because they were built to take it. Even though your test denied this could there be some perfect combination of things that make smooth torts? Maybe you have found it and other people that try don't get something right.
Ok I'm burning out go ahead and tell me if any of that made since.
Tom said:TurtleTortoise said:What about hibernating? I have sorta read the end of pyramiding thread but would hibernation have an affect at all? Being cold and wet down in the moist dirt for almost half a year? I don't know much and I don't even know if sulcatas are supposed to hibernate but I'm just saying for any tort? And I'm new and again don't know much or read much, but why do turtles and box turtles not pyramid? They stay small, but is there a significant difference that they do or don't that tortoises do or don't?
I'm just saying is there ANY possibility that something other than diet, exercise, uv, and moisture/humidity could cause or affect pyramiding? Anything at all or have you found the best solution?
Here are some random ideas that tortoises might do in the wild:
1.Rub against rocks (totally random)
2.Travel long distances for food (exercise)
3.Burrow deep down to cold moisture (moisture/humidity)
4.hot dry sun (uv)
5.And sometimes they don't get food for a loooong time because they were built to take it. Even though your test denied this could there be some perfect combination of things that make smooth torts? Maybe you have found it and other people that try don't get something right.
Ok I'm burning out go ahead and tell me if any of that made since.
In general the species that hibernate are less prone to pyramiding. Those species do not tend to pyramid much even for the people who don't hibernate them. Most of the Testudo species can be grown smoothly with out so much attention to humidity, moisture and hydration. This has been demonstrated here many times. Usually when one sees pyramiding in these or box turtles or RES, it is also usually associated with horrible husbandry, a terrible diet, and a complete lack of any UV.
There are LOTS of possibilities for other factors that contribute to pyramiding. We are now able to grow them smooth, but there are still a lot of unanswered questions.
I'll answer for each of your ideas.
1. Abrasion does have a slightly smoothing effect, but remember that the scute material is only a little thicker than your thumbnail. It is the porous, malformed bone underneath that IS the pyramid.
2. Exercise helps burn calories, so less energy left over for growth. My research has shown me that growth in the wrong conditions (dry) is pyramided growth. Growth in the right conditions (wet and warm) is smooth. The rate doesn't matter.
3. The burrowing gives you some abrasion, but it also gives you more humidity than above ground. Humidity contributes to keeping a tortoise hydrated and helping the shell grow smoothly.
4. I cannot say that I know of a smooth tortoise that was not getting either sunshine or artificial UV. Anyone out there know of one? All of mine get sun all year long.
5. See #2. But also, if there is no growth, due to lack of food, there is also no bad growth. In the wild they grow when there is plentiful food. There is plentiful food in the wet, humid rainy season. So most of their growth happens during the rainy season because they are eating a lot.
So far everyone that I know of that is following the "wet" routine is growing smooth torts. Some people go farther than others, and it varies around the country too, but most everyone using a humid hide box, a damp substrate, regular soaks and shell spraying is growing a smooth baby.
Tom said:So far everyone that I know of that is following the "wet" routine is growing smooth torts. Some people go farther than others, and it varies around the country too, but most everyone using a humid hide box, a damp substrate, regular soaks and shell spraying is growing a smooth baby.
TurtleTortoise said:I don't know, but it seems like the only way to know if all year round rainy seasons would affect them would be some intense hard work that lasts at least 1 gen. of torts being tested. That is too long for us right now. Somebody has to study them in their natural habitat and then try and keep a sulcata from hatchling to adult as best they possibly can replicating their natural habitat then also one with an "all rainy season" and see what happens. It is all test and retest. You have done plenty yourself (Tom), more than I could ever do. You may have nailed it with the wet conditions. Or maybe were just the start of solving the problem. You never know, people 20 years from now could have completely solved the problem with the help of you. Or that is just the best we can do with them in captivity. Who knows what might happen.
Tom said:My adults were bred from a group of captive bred, captive raised torts. So you have the originals, which I'm assuming were wild caught, then the CBB parents of my adults, then my adults that I raised from hatchlings, and now their hatchlings. So three CBB generations so far. When my current yearlings have babies in a few years it will be CBB generation four.