Scratching/climbing

alanagio

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I have a large enclosure for my Russian tortoise, 5 feet long, about 3 feet wide, foot and a half tall wooden box. I have the correct uv and heat lamps, she has 2 huts, a soaking area, 2 different substrates and always has food. Lately all she does is climb and scratch at the walls trying to get out or something. It keeps me up at night! I am about to give her up because she is so frustrating. Does anyone have suggestions of how to make her stop climbing and scratching? ImageUploadedByTortForum1382444877.440604.jpg
 
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Tom

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Is it dark at night? What do you mean by "correct" lighting and UV? Can you tell us what your four temps are and what heating and lighting you are using to achieve this? Warm side, cool side, basking spot and night? What sort of UV bulb are you using?
 

Yvonne G

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Hi alan, and welcome to the forum!

As you are discovering, tortoises (wild animals) aren't meant to be kept in the house...especially Russian tortoises. Some tortoises acclimate to it, but some never do.
 

Helen

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My little Russian carried on like you've described when our weather changed and it became too cold for him to be outside much. I've found that taking him outside, just for a short 15-20 minutes, really helps. It must be something about the smells and sounds of the great outdoors - he settles right down in his indoor enclosure after he's had a little bit of fresh air.
 

alanagio

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The heat lamp gives off purple light and it can be around 85-92 degrees under the heat light. The other light I have is a white uv light I was told to get so she gets the rays to prevent shell rot. I live in upstate NY, and it is already 40 degrees outside so I don't feel letting her walk around out there will do anything good? Because I have to keep
Her inside at this point is there anything you can suggest to tire her out more? Should I let her walk around my living room floor?
 

peasinapod

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AW: Scratching/climbing

If you're saying "she", it means your tortoise is female? I heard that females which are trying to lay eggs will become very active and try to find an adequate spot for the eggs.

(Maybe I am completely wrong!)

:huh:
Just because you're saying it was a sudden change of behaviour.
 

Helen

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40 F... that's only 4 C! Blimey, that is cold. Sorry, I didn't realise you had temps that low right now. I'm in Lincolnshire in the UK and it's about 60 F (14 C) at the moment, not warm but OK. You're right, I don't think being out in the cold would do your tort any good. There are good reasons for not letting torts roam the house - ingestible hazards or being stepped on to name just two. However, if you are careful, some supervised exercise time might help use up some energy, provide a change of scene and calm her down. I let my Russian walk around inside when it's too wet or cold out and it seems to help settle him when he's stir crazy. It's easy to forget he's on the floor though, and he can wedge himself in the tiniest gap or disappear completely in no time. Be warned! Good luck.
 

Tom

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alanagio said:
The heat lamp gives off purple light and it can be around 85-92 degrees under the heat light. The other light I have is a white uv light I was told to get so she gets the rays to prevent shell rot. I live in upstate NY, and it is already 40 degrees outside so I don't feel letting her walk around out there will do anything good? Because I have to keep
Her inside at this point is there anything you can suggest to tire her out more? Should I let her walk around my living room floor?

Colored bulbs make things look funny to tortoises. You should be using daylight bulbs on a timer during the day, and nothing at night. They need it to cool down at night and be dark. Also what sort of UV bulb are you using? Is it a coil type CFL? Those can sometimes hurt their eyes. Some tortoises react by hiding all the time, and some try to incessantly escape from the painful bulb. UV does not prevent shell rot. UV allows them to manufacture vitamin D3, which allows their bodies to assimilate dietary calcium. Without D3, all the calcium in the world does them no good. Without UV, no D3. So UV bulbs, along with a good diet and supplementation, help to prevent metabolic bone disease.

There are four temperatures we need to know. Warm side, cool side, basking temp directly below the bulb, and the coolest night temp overnight.

She does not need to be tired out. She needs the correct lighting and temperatures to start with, and then we will see if she's just a restless soul or not. Letting her walk around on the floor is a recipe for disaster that I have seen end badly many times. I don't recommend it.

That water bowl is a tortoise death trap. I recommend you remove it immediately and replace it with a cheap terra cotta plant saucer from the hardware store sunk into the substrate. Those ramped bowls are great for snakes and lizards, but dangerous for tortoises.

Sounds like you got all the typical bad pet store advice. Go to the top of the Russian tortoise page for a care sheet.
 

zenoandthetortoise

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I second the issues with funny colored lights. But, after you get the lights and temps dialed in, you may consider a play pen. I have a redfoot that acts, for lack of a better term, bored when inside for even a few days. Keep in mind he is 8.6 cm in a 1.5m^2 table with plants, hides, etc. doesn't matter, still gets bored. I bought a wading pool that I stock with PVC tunnels, bark, logs, etc. I keep it acceptably warm ~29C, but don't worry about humidity as he is not there for long and his table runs 80RH and his hide is 90RH. He seems to enjoy exploring and it's fun for me. Hope this helps.
 

lisa127

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I've been keeping reptiles for about 20 years. All my reptiles (chelonians and others) were bothered by red incandescent lights for heat but never seem to notice the black (which is what I think he's referring to) incandescent lights. The black ones are all I use. so I have to disagree with this.

The red ones though are a problem. My chelonians will stare up at them funnylike, so you can tell they notice them. And my geckos avoided them. Like I said above, none of those problems with the black ones.
 
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