Stuart (Freddie) update

[Minty82]

Good evening, everyone!

Back in 2019, I re-homed a 10-year-old male Sulcata weighing about 5.4kg. It’s been a few years now, and I’m happy to share that Stuart (formerly known as Freddie) has made significant progress despite a few challenges along the way.

Stuart now weighs 14kg, but his walking is still a concern. His back legs seem to get stuck when he brings them into his shell, causing him to drag them. It’s been an ongoing issue, and I’m determined to get to the bottom of it.

Last week, he underwent a CT scan, and I’ve attached the images here. I’m reaching out to more experienced keepers for their thoughts and insights while I await his blood test results, which should be ready early next week

Current Setup:

Heating: Reptile Systems Gold Infrared 400W basking temp 34c

Lighting: UVA 100W Floodlight and a 54W Arcadia Dragon D3 bulb, with a UVI reading of 5.

All housed within a fully insulated shed.

Any advice, suggestions, or observations would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Minty82]

Good evening, everyone!

Back in 2019, I re-homed a 10-year-old male Sulcata weighing about 5.4kg. It’s been a few years now, and I’m happy to share that Stuart (formerly known as Freddie) has made significant progress despite a few challenges along the way.

Stuart now weighs 14kg, but his walking is still a concern. His back legs seem to get stuck when he brings them into his shell, causing him to drag them. It’s been an ongoing issue, and I’m determined to get to the bottom of it.

Last week, he underwent a CT scan, and I’ve attached the images here. I’m reaching out to more experienced keepers for their thoughts and insights while I await his blood test results, which should be ready early next week

Current Setup:

Heating: Reptile Systems Gold Infrared 400W basking temp 34c

Lighting: UVA 100W Floodlight and a 54W Arcadia Dragon D3 bulb, with a UVI reading of 5.

All housed within a fully insulated shed.

Any advice, suggestions, or observations would be greatly appreciated.

Couple pictures of his enclosure

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

I can't advice you on the leg problem, but one thing came to my mind. I wonder if he is already too large for the heat lamps (they don't work well with large tortoises).

Maybe @Tom @Yvonne G @Markw84 or @zovick can advise you about the legs.

 

[zovick]

I can't advice you on the leg problem, but one thing came to my mind. I wonder if he is already too large for the heat lamps (they don't work well with large tortoises).

Maybe @Tom @Yvonne G @Markw84 or @zovick can advise you about the legs.

@Minty82

According to the vet report, the tortoise has MBD (metabolic bone disease). Dragging the back legs and an inability to get up on all four legs and walk normally are cardinal signs of MBD.

To mitigate this situation, you will probably need to rethink the diet and the supplements you are currently using.

 

[Markw84]

@Minty82 As @zovick states, your tortoise suffers from the effects of MBD. You cannot reverse the deformity caused by the improper growth and splaying of the legs that is resulting in the dragging. You can ensure the conditions and diet are best to ensure good bone strengthening to avoid the conditions worsening.

It is obvious you are dong a great job with your sulcata. As a reminder of some things you may not have considered here's an overview on my thoughts...

Unfortunately you are dealing with the issues of keeping a large tortoise in an extreme northern location that is further north than any tortoise occurs naturally - and certainly so for a sulcata! There is a reason tortoises cannot survive at 51°N. Solar radiation - heat and UVB - is adequate perhaps 2 months of the year and only at midday. Temperatures are much lower, and the ground temperatures tortoises rely upon are way too low to sustain metabolic activity for a tortoise. So you have to artificially overcome these obstacles.

You mention your tortoise house is insulated. You need good insulation on all 6 sides - walls, top and BOTTOM - to be able to properly, yet efficiently, heat a tortoise house in cooler weather. Most people forget about the floor, but that is the most important surface for a tortoise!

Ensure your tortoise house maintains a 27° minimum temperature. Check with a temperature gun in the bottom corners at night and in cold spells. Check the tortoise's temperature (I shoot the temp at the base of the neck/shoulder) is above 27° during the coldest days and nights. Tip the tortoise up and check the plastron temperature. Do these tests to see what your tortoise is really experiencing. Metabolic activity for a tropical species needs these temperatures to be maintained. Some of the gut flora is also very temperature sensitive and cooler temperatures causes it to die off and be out of balance for good digestion and metabolic activity.

But that is the minimum. You also need to ensure your tortoise can warm up to at least 32° during the day. When clouds or low sun levels and cooler days eliminate any way to warm a tortoise, you must provide a basking area where the tortoise can do this. For larger tortoises, a single heat bulb will not work and it does not create a large enough basking zone and concentrates too much heat in one place. So - I use an array of 3 basking domes placed about 1 meter off the floor, spaced about 60cm apart in a triangle. I use 175 watt brooder bulbs in these dome to create the necessary basking zone.


Basking zone created by 3 heat lamps. Ample room to move about on cold days. Floor with 3" R16.5 foam insulation covered by horse stall mats with 4" of fir bark on top. 4" walls fully insulated. R30 ceiling insulation.

Optimal metabolic temperatures for a sulcata is around 31°. If they cannot warm up to at least that every day, they will not thrive.

You have a good UVB bulb and fixture. Hang that in the middle of your basking zone.

Check the diet and vitamin/minerals the tortoise is getting. High fiber to help move things through the gut. So lots of grasses or soft hays. I would add some extra calcium with D3 since you are overcoming MBD issues. Use a good tortoise pellet like ZooMed or Mazuri/NutraZu and feed 2x per week. But do not let pellets that have become wet sit out more than 24 hours. If you can get dried Moringa leaves and/or Mulberry leaves, that is an excellent topping to some greens when feeding. Super high in calcium and the necessary amino acids.

Good luck with your tortoise.