Sulcata respiratory infection

[JokingYeti]

We have a 60lb female sulcata who has had three respiratory infections in the past two years. The first two happened during the winter/fall. While I hate that they happened I know that even in the day time when she is grazing it was cold so there was not much I could do. I believe she is currently coming down with a third one but it’s July in phoenix so she isn’t exactly getting cold.

I’m wondering what are some other causes of respiratory infections? What can I do to prevent them in the future?

Last time we went to the vet they said they can become chronic/reoccurring, is there any truth to that?


The vet previously had us give the injections under the front leg, kind of into what you might call the chest? This seems wrong to me but I don’t know enough to dispute it. I have seen some people suggest into the front legs between the spikes on her legs? It seems like it would be VERY hard to inject there.

Can she recover without antibiotics?

I recall reading here about a medicine that started with a B? Baytrill maybe? That can cause burns and is no longer recommended. What to do if that is what the vet prescribes?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[wellington]

If vet tries to prescribe Baytril, you tell them NO! They need to prescribe a different one. Your animal, they work for you
@Yvonne G can recommend.
Yes, once the tortoise has had a RI it's much easier for them to get it.
The tortoise always needs to be kept no lower than 80. In winter, when your temps do get cold, you need to provide a heated night box for him to sleep in and to go into during the day if he wants. This should be offered all year round. The heat can be turned off during summer of course. The tortoise should be locked in it every night, specially during winter cold months and let out every morning.

 

[Tom]

We have a 60lb female sulcata who has had three respiratory infections in the past two years. The first two happened during the winter/fall. While I hate that they happened I know that even in the day time when she is grazing it was cold so there was not much I could do. I believe she is currently coming down with a third one but it’s July in phoenix so she isn’t exactly getting cold.

I’m wondering what are some other causes of respiratory infections? What can I do to prevent them in the future?

Last time we went to the vet they said they can become chronic/reoccurring, is there any truth to that?


The vet previously had us give the injections under the front leg, kind of into what you might call the chest? This seems wrong to me but I don’t know enough to dispute it. I have seen some people suggest into the front legs between the spikes on her legs? It seems like it would be VERY hard to inject there.

Can she recover without antibiotics?

I recall reading here about a medicine that started with a B? Baytrill maybe? That can cause burns and is no longer recommended. What to do if that is what the vet prescribes?

Any help would be appreciated.

Wellington explained it all perfectly.

The alternative medicine, if needed, is Fortaz.

Here are two examples of night boxes with safe and effective heating strategies. Once they get sick, they are more likely to get sick again, so while everyone should be keeping their tropical tortoises warm in winter, it is critically important for you to do it if you want her to survive another winter. I keep the box set to 80 year round, and bump it up to 86 during winter cold spells when they can't arm up any other way. I prefer to let mine burrow in summer, but then keep them above ground in the fall when nights begin to cool, and make them sleep in their night boxes until late spring and hot temps return.

Single Tortoise Night Box

I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll...

tortoiseforum.org

Double Door Night Box

As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...

tortoiseforum.org

 

[JokingYeti]

@wellington @Tom I should have mentioned in the post we do already have a heated night box for the winters. You actually helped me with it a few times.
what I meant was that there were a few occasions where it was cold and rainy during her grazing hours. She left the heated night box to eat for an hour or so then went back into the heat. We set the box for no lower than 82 and no higher than 87. Based off the external thermostat it seemed to work perfectly.

I guess what I was getting at is I can understand where the infection may have come from in the winter but not in the summer. Our overnight lows lately have been mid 80s. If cold temps are the primary reason then what happened? Could there be a secondary cause? Breathed in some dust or dirt or something?

I will ask the vet about Fortaz during the appointment.

Can anyone provide a link or quick guide on the best way to do injections on larger tortoises? Everything I’m finding is for small tortoises.

 

[Tom]

@wellington @Tom I should have mentioned in the post we do already have a heated night box for the winters. You actually helped me with it a few times.
what I meant was that there were a few occasions where it was cold and rainy during her grazing hours. She left the heated night box to eat for an hour or so then went back into the heat. We set the box for no lower than 82 and no higher than 87. Based off the external thermostat it seemed to work perfectly.

I guess what I was getting at is I can understand where the infection may have come from in the winter but not in the summer. Our overnight lows lately have been mid 80s. If cold temps are the primary reason then what happened? Could there be a secondary cause? Breathed in some dust or dirt or something?

I will ask the vet about Fortaz during the appointment.

Can anyone provide a link or quick guide on the best way to do injections on larger tortoises? Everything I’m finding is for small tortoises.

All of this sounds good, and your tortoise should not be getting sick. Its no problem for them to come out and graze on a cold rainy winter day, and then go back in their heated box to warm up.

What are the symptoms you are seeing that lead you to believe it is an RI?

 

[JokingYeti]

All of this sounds good, and your tortoise should not be getting sick. Its no problem for them to come out and graze on a cold rainy winter day, and then go back in their heated box to warm up.

What are the symptoms you are seeing that lead you to believe it is an RI?

Here is a link to a video of her current breathing. She sounds like she is wheezing and like her breathing is a bit cloudy or wet. Her activity level is good. Her appetite is good.
We gave her a warm soak in the tub this morning to try and hear her better as it can be a bit noisy in my neighborhood.

https://imgur.com/HyTGEwk

 

[Tom]

Here is a link to a video of her current breathing. She sounds like she is wheezing and like her breathing is a bit cloudy or wet. Her activity level is good. Her appetite is good.
We gave her a warm soak in the tub this morning to try and hear her better as it can be a bit noisy in my neighborhood.

https://imgur.com/HyTGEwk

If that is a video, I can't get it to play.

If appetite and activity are good, temps are correct, and there isn't a lot of discharge, I'd leave her be. Some of them just sound a little wheezy when breathing. I've seen a few like that.

 

[JokingYeti]

If that is a video, I can't get it to play.

If appetite and activity are good, temps are correct, and there isn't a lot of discharge, I'd leave her be. Some of them just sound a little wheezy when breathing. I've seen a few like that.

Maybe this will work?

I appreciate your advice. We will keep a closer eye on her the next few days just to be sure.

 

[Tom]

Maybe this will work?

I appreciate your advice. We will keep a closer eye on her the next few days just to be sure.

I don't see or hear anything out of the ordinary there.

 

[JoJosMom]

@JokingYeti Do you ever see the mucus come out of her mouth or nose? If so, what color is it?

 

[zovick]

Maybe this will work?

I appreciate your advice. We will keep a closer eye on her the next few days just to be sure.

Since the problem seems to recur periodically, your tortoise may have a Mycoplasma infection. if so, it may subside for a while if/when treated, but it will not be completely eliminated by either Fortaz or Baytril (but don't accept Baytril injections for any reason).

Once a tortoise has Mycoplasma, it becomes a lifelong carrier of the disease, and you just have to deal with its symptoms when it manifests itself. Fortaz injections can help decrease the symptoms if they are severe. If symptoms are not overly severe, injections may not be required, and the problem will subside over time.

 

[mark1]

is this literature incorrect? or am i misunderstanding? is ceftazidime a β-lactam? i'm pretty sure baytril is a fluoroquinolone..........


Antibiotic susceptibility testing of Mycoplasma


"Mycoplasmas are resistant to antimicrobials that interfere with folic acid metabolism and cell wall synthesis, like sulphonamides, trimetoprim and the β-lactam class of antibiotics [5,10]. Macrolides, tetracyclines, fluoroquinolones, some aminoglycosides and aminocyclitols"
Antibiotic susceptibility profiles of Mycoplasma sp. 1220 strains
"Mycoplasmas are resistant to β-lactam antimicrobials because of the lack of cell-wall and the bacteria are also resistant to membrane synthesis inhibitors [2, 9]. Antibiotics such as quinolones, tetracyclines, macrolides and pleuromutilins which induce DNA fragmentation or inhibition at the level of protein synthesis are the drugs of choice for the therapy of mycoplasmosis."
Antimicrobial Resistance in Mycoplasma spp
"Mycoplasmas are intrinsically resistant to antimicrobials targeting the cell wall (fosfomycin, glycopeptides, or β-lactam antibiotics) and to sulfonamides, first-generation quinolones, trimethoprim, polymixins, and rifampicin. The antibiotics most frequently used to control mycoplasmal infections in animals are macrolides and tetracyclines. Lincosamides, fluoroquinolones, pleuromutilins, phenicols, and aminoglycosides can also be active."