Dbrocato2
Well-Known Member
I need to purchase a dimming thermostat for my heat lamps.. What are your recommendations?
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thermostat
- Thread starter Dbrocato2
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Is this to use with a “bulb” or a CHE or RHP?
For a heating CHE or RHP you need something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076J1CZVV/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
Dbrocato2
Well-Known Member
Yes it is to use with a bulb. I have two heat lights to keep things toasty and sometimes it gets a little too warm.
You really don't need a dimming thermostat for heating. A simple on/off is all you need and much less $$. I only use dimming (proportional) thermostats when doing temperature sexing experiments with my incubators where I want temperature control within a few tenths of a degree. A regular on/off thermostat in an enclosure will keep temps within 1°-2° which is great for any enclosure.
Dbrocato2
Well-Known Member
Won't these kinds flicker the light on and off?
They arent meant for light bulbs, used for CHE or RHP.
I use habistat dimming thermostat on my day basking bulbs attached to a on/off plug for light cycle
Don't know which type you are asking about. But neither will flicker a light on and off.
With an on/off the light will simply go on when the thermostat drops to 80° for example. Then when the temperature at the probe reaches 81° it will turn off. This would normally take 2-10 minutes depending upon your enclosure and placement of your probe.
A proportional thermostat if used on a bulb, will apply varying amounts of power (like a dimmer) depending upon how far away from the set temperature the probe reads. So set at 80°, if the temperature drops to 79.9° the thermostat may deliver about 10% power to the bulb. At 79.4° maybe 60% power, at 78° 100% power, etc. As the probe heats above 80° the reverse happens - 10% at 80.1°, 50% at 80.5°, etc. In a well insulated enclosure, or incubator, the bulb may never fully light. It will simply vary as needed in brightness to give off the heat necessary to keep the temp at the probe at 80°. Sounds nice, and it is, but unnessary in an enclosure, but useful where a difference of 1/2° will make a difference. Plus a good one is much more expensive than an on/off.
You certainly can use proportional thermostats on CHE's radiant heat panels, or incandescent. It's actually easier on a bulb to slowly apply power on and off as opposed to a sudden burst of full power. But bulbs are designed for the on/off situation just like flipping on a light switch. They will last just a bit longer with proportional power applied. You cannot use proportional type thermostats with anything using a ballast - flourescents or Mercury Vapor bulbs, for example. They need full power to start to sequence to superheat the mercury to gas which is used to make the energy for the light in the proper spectrum.
Dbrocato2
Well-Known Member
This was very helpful! My enclosure can get too hot when it gets really warm in my house so I want a thermostat that will dim the light/heat down when needed. And in the winter I will need something like whis for my che
There is a problem with overheating in a well designed enclosure. I put an extra thermostat in all my enclosures to cut OFF the basking light if the enclosure gets too hot. I put the basking light on that thermostat and set it to 94°. I place the probe next to, but not directly under the basking area. So when the probe reads 94° it cuts off the basking light. The thermostats I use has a differential you can set, and I set mine to 3. That way the probe needs to cool to 91° before it turns the basking light back on.
Dbrocato2
Well-Known Member
What thermostat is this?
I use and install the inkbird ITS-1000 in all my enclosures. It does require you do some simple wiring, but I like that I can install it and build it into the front panel of the enclosures. I used to just build it into a little box to make my own thermostat. It is also dual function. It can be used to turn on when below the set point (heat) and/or turn on when above the set point (cool) for a fan or cooler. I use that function in my diapause incubator that I need cooler than ambient room temperature.
Hi
I am also looking for a thermostat for my CHE bulb.
Does the one listed above require any wiring? Wiring something is just not on my list of skills : )
If the above requires wiring, is there a reputable one that does not require wiring?
Many thanks!
Katie
most reptile thermostats you buy require no wiring. Just plug it in and plug what you want to control into the plug on the thermostat. The one you referenced from @Maro2Bear does not require any wiring.
Do a search on Amazon for "reptile thermostat". Take your pick. Most are in the $20 range. Thermostats are quite simple electronics and most all are extremely reliable.
OK, another question about thermostats.
I have a baby LT, so I know I need to keep his enclosure humid. I keep the substrate moist and mist a number of times throughout the day.
Does the thermostat (probe) need to be waterproof?
Another question, although I think I know the answer but wanto to be certain...
I do NOT want one with a heat mat, correct? It seems as if there are more of those.
Thanks!
LT?
Substrate should be kept moist by dumping water into it. Spraying the surface does very little. Spraying the tortoise's carapace is a good idea, but use distilled, RO or rainwater to prevent hardwater stains for this.
The probes are already water proofed. No mats in indoor baby enclosures. Kane mats can be used outdoor in heated night boxes for larger tortoises when CHEs are not longer suitable.
Ok.. LT has to be Leopard Tortoise.....
