Yeah I see that now, the 300 watt would never work on the radiators. I think I got it all straight now. Thanks.Not on oil filled radiator heaters.
Yeah I see that now, the 300 watt would never work on the radiators. I think I got it all straight now. Thanks.Not on oil filled radiator heaters.
I use a temp gun to read it's temperature.I've used and am using the tile, but I don't remember the dimmer. I plug the tile into a Reptitemp digital thermostat. But you're saying the thermostat turns the heat all the way on, then off once it reaches the set temperature. While the dimmer turns the heat on variable. So how do you know what temp you're getting? Don't mean to be so obtuse, just trying to understand.
The dimmer is a rheostat. A year ago they cost $11 on Amazon the ones I recently bought for Thomas's new house cost $17. The Ace hardware store in town here are careering them now for $19.Okay you use the dimmer in place of the rheostat. Thanks.
Yes, but how do you know when it's set in the right place?Okay you use the dimmer in place of the rheostat. Thanks.
See post #42 above.Yes, but how do you know when it's set in the right place?
Okay, pretend I have my che on a dimmer/rheo. The temp reaches what I want. Now how do I know how much to turn the dimmer back so it stays at that temp?See post #42 above.
Exactly! That's what I've been trying to figureOkay, pretend I have my che on a dimmer/rheo. The temp reaches what I want. Now how do I know how much to turn the dimmer back so it stays at that temp
A Kill-a-Watt, which is a wattage meter tells you how many watts is getting to the heat source whatever it is you are running. They make it so much easier to get the heat setting you want. Let's say you are using a che to heat a piece of slate. You want the slate to be 90 degrees. Turn the che on let it heat up having the kaw plugged in and the dimmer pluggedExactly! That's what I've been trying to figure
Monitor it for a few hours and a few days. Let it stabilize and also pay attention to room temps and fluctuations. Adjust as needed.Okay, pretend I have my che on a dimmer/rheo. The temp reaches what I want. Now how do I know how much to turn the dimmer back so it stays at that temp?
@Turtulas-Len
Yes... go on...A Kill-a-Watt, which is a wattage meter tells you how many watts is getting to the heat source whatever it is you are running. They make it so much easier to get the heat setting you want. Let's say you are using a che to heat a piece of slate. You want the slate to be 90 degrees. Turn the che on let it heat up having the kaw plugged in and the dimmer plugged
Okay, so its guessing how much to turn back and then wait a couple days or so while checking temps the whole time? On a light bulb, the bulb will dim. So I'm guessing a bulb is easier to get adjusted. If it gets to dim, it's likely going to be too dim to keep it warm enough.Monitor it for a few hours and a few days. Let it stabilize and also pay attention to room temps and fluctuations. Adjust as needed.
These questions illustrate so much. This stuff works for Len and he gets top notch results from his methods. I want to learn the details and see how I can improve what I am doing and what I can learn from him. But are new keepers going to be able to pull off what someone of Len's ability can pull off? I don't know the answer. If you two experienced tortoise keepers are having trouble understanding how to use these items, how hard will it be for a new keeper to figure out? That part concerns me, though I want to learn more about it all.
I accidentally touched the post button..... Into the kaw and the heater plugged into the dimmer and after a while and it's warmer you wanted. Check the wattage and lower the wattage using the dimmer. And if it's still hotter than wanted lower the wattage a little more, if the temp dropped more than you wanted raise the wattage used and check it again until you get the temp you want. Watching the wattage helps to find the right setting and once set it should stay at that temperature. A temp gun is needed to do this and the kill a watt makes it easier but not necessary. Sorry for the delay in finishing this post things got a little busy for a few minutes.A Kill-a-Watt, which is a wattage meter tells you how many watts is getting to the heat source whatever it is you are running. They make it so much easier to get the heat setting you want. Let's say you are using a che to heat a piece of slate. You want the slate to be 90 degrees. Turn the che on let it heat up having the kaw plugged in and the dimmer plugged
Dimmer = rheostat.Okay, so its guessing how much to turn back and then wait a couple days or so while checking temps the whole time? On a light bulb, the bulb will dim. So I'm guessing a bulb is easier to get adjusted. If it gets to dim, it's likely going to be too dim to keep it warm enough.
To your concern about newbies. If they don't know what a rheostat is, they likely won't use it. A dimmer they may use, but it's easier for a tortoise less set up then I think it would be for a set up that already has a tortoise in it. Len probably has it down with accurate guessing. The rest of us would have to do it a few times to get it right.
With a che I use a wireless thermometer hanging just above the surface to read the temp. If temp starts rising above what I want I reduced the wattage and the temp reading only takes a few minutes to change. If the sending unit is laying down on the surface it will take longer to cool down. Once you get close and are looking to get an exact surface temp then lay the sending unit down and adjust from there.Okay, pretend I have my che on a dimmer/rheo. The temp reaches what I want. Now how do I know how much to turn the dimmer back so it stays at that temp?
@Turtulas-Len
Yes I got that. But calling it a rheostat a lot of people won't know what it is. Everyone I think knows what a dimmer is.Dimmer = rheostat.
Okay great. That sounds much easier.With a che I use a wireless thermometer hanging just above the surface to read the temp. If temp starts rising above what I want I reduced the wattage and the temp reading only takes a few minutes to change. If the sending unit is laying down on the surface it will take longer to cool down. Once you get close and are looking to get an exact surface temp then lay the sending unit down and adjust from there.
I personally as a newbie love to read the discussions on here just to learn whether I believe it or not.. There actually are so many intelligent people here on TFO. That includes really intelligent young people that cheered me up and steered me in the right direction. You are right 👍 we need discussion 🤗Okay, so its guessing how much to turn back and then wait a couple days or so while checking temps the whole time? On a light bulb, the bulb will dim. So I'm guessing a bulb is easier to get adjusted. If it gets to dim, it's likely going to be too dim to keep it warm enough.
To your concern about newbies. If they don't know what a rheostat is, they likely won't use it. A dimmer they may use, but it's easier for a tortoise less set up then I think it would be for a set up that already has a tortoise in it. Len probably has it down with accurate guessing. The rest of us would have to do it a few times to get it right.
I hope they do read as much as they can. Sadely I don't think many do. They just ask before searching. I get it, I did too way back when. I had never been on a forum though so didnt know how they worked. This thread discussion taught me I didn't have a rheostat way back when and if I ever do get one, or a dimmer for my torts, I will know how to use it lol.I personally as a newbie love to read the discussions on here just to learn whether I believe it or not.. There actually are so many intelligent people here on TFO. That includes really intelligent young people that cheered me up and steered me in the right direction. You are right 👍 we need discussion 🤗
I hope so too. I probably won't remember all of it but I'm sure the thread will still be here to refresh my memory.🐢I hope they do read as much as they can. Sadely I don't think many do. They just ask before searching. I get it, I did too way back when. I had never been on a forum though so didnt know how they worked. This thread discussion taught me I didn't have a rheostat way back when and if I ever do get one, or a dimmer for my torts, I will know how to use it lol.
So I hope Len keeps adding to it.
Is there a portion of this site dedicated/required for beginning tortoise keepers joining the forum that includes explicit instructions with dimensioned photos/graphics of what to buy and where to place the items in a suitable habitat? In my short time here it seems that the same questions are asked weekly and if there were instructions provided you would eliminate 90% of the dialogue except for more advanced topics that require specific expertise.I had not seen it yet Len. You do a lot of unconventional things and they work for you. My reason for requesting the thread was so that we could all understand all the details behind what you are doing, or not doing, and learn from it.
Your tortoises looks amazing, and exude good health. It could be disastrous for someone to see what amazing results you produce, and then to read that you use bottom heat, but not read all these important details, and they just went to the reptile store and bought a stick on heat mat in an effort to copy your way of doing it. The simple sentence: "I use bottom heat." could really cause some problems for people. Reading the above paragraph in post #16 with all the details explained is a whole different animal than the one simple sentence, and those details make the difference between your success and someone else's disaster.
You think outside the box, but you are also smart and experienced enough to pay attention to what you are doing, see the effects, and make immediate adjustments as needed. You innovate. We can all learn from your experience, but without the details, costly mistakes will be made. A brand new tortoise keeper will not understand much of what your are doing and why, and them trying to emulate you without the benefit of these important details is likely to fail.
I love it when people do unconventional things that work. I learn from it. This is how tortoise knowledge advances. You've been around TFO as long as I have. Do you remember all the hell I caught when I came around saying to soak sulcatas daily and keep them humid? I knew I was right, and so I persisted, and look at the whole world now. You are also right in what you know and what you have first hand experience with, and I request the you also persist. Neither you nor I are going to live forever. Better that our hard earned knowledge be passed down to help and inspire youngsters that are smarter and more motivated than you or I. Please keep going with this thread. None of us knows everything, and you've got some valuable puzzle pieces swimming around in that head of yours. It would be a shame not to share what you've figured out.