Tnewton said:
What makes you say this? Did you have a bad experience with one?
Will a Powersun MVB be good enough
- Thread starter Cory
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What makes you say this? Did you have a bad experience with one?
Tom,
Yeah, I have found that they tend to loose the ability to produce uvb rather quickly. I think most people think there actually getting a product that is going to be beneficial to there animals for roughly at least 6 months when in reality after 2-3 months uvb is severly depleted, at least from what im seeing from mine and there rather new and have read several complaints along the same lines. I think that for 70 bucks for a powersun bulb, most would be better going with a straight uvb tube and regular light bulb
Yeah, I have found that they tend to loose the ability to produce uvb rather quickly. I think most people think there actually getting a product that is going to be beneficial to there animals for roughly at least 6 months when in reality after 2-3 months uvb is severly depleted, at least from what im seeing from mine and there rather new and have read several complaints along the same lines. I think that for 70 bucks for a powersun bulb, most would be better going with a straight uvb tube and regular light bulb
Tom said:
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I read the same..Most mvb drop off quite a bit in the first hr of burn in..and most fully deteriorate by 6month...they still put out light but not the beneficial UVB....
But I have also read that by keeping the heat down..Like an externally balasted MVB will help increase the longevity by almost two yrs...Also not putting the bulb in a dome but in a wire cage.... Seems the cooler the bulb stays the slower the UVB deteriorates..
Great site lots of info
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/index.htm
But I have also read that by keeping the heat down..Like an externally balasted MVB will help increase the longevity by almost two yrs...Also not putting the bulb in a dome but in a wire cage.... Seems the cooler the bulb stays the slower the UVB deteriorates..
Great site lots of info
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/index.htm
I'm not saying you are wrong. I have no way of knowing. I have no light meter and I've never tested the UV output of any MVB over time. But how do YOU know this? We are all here to learn and this is the first time I've heard this.
My personal experience: I've seen lots of reptiles of several species develop MBD under florescent UV tubes, but I have not ever seen a single case of MBD come out from under a MVB. It is certainly possible that there have been cases and I just haven't seen them, but I deal with a whole lot of reptiles in a whole lot of housing situations.
My personal experience: I've seen lots of reptiles of several species develop MBD under florescent UV tubes, but I have not ever seen a single case of MBD come out from under a MVB. It is certainly possible that there have been cases and I just haven't seen them, but I deal with a whole lot of reptiles in a whole lot of housing situations.
Tnewton said:
Tom,
Sure bust my balls in the forum instead of the 500 private messages we exchange daily......HAHAHA.
After us talking lots weeks ago before I went MIA, I bought my MVB's like I was going to. Well after emailing several big time reptile shops, and getting goofy *** anwsers I decided to find out myself. I bought my MVB's and a radiometer. I was getting 65 micro watts whem first plugged in, and now im getting 52. This is only about 3 weeks of having these bulbs.
quote='Tom' pid='319929' dateline='1317472804']
I'm not saying you are wrong. I have no way of knowing. I have no light meter and I've never tested the UV output of any MVB over time. But how do YOU know this? We are all here to learn and this is the first time I've heard this.
My personal experience: I've seen lots of reptiles of several species develop MBD under florescent UV tubes, but I have not ever seen a single case of MBD come out from under a MVB. It is certainly possible that there have been cases and I just haven't seen them, but I deal with a whole lot of reptiles in a whole lot of housing situations.
[/quote]
Sure bust my balls in the forum instead of the 500 private messages we exchange daily......HAHAHA.
After us talking lots weeks ago before I went MIA, I bought my MVB's like I was going to. Well after emailing several big time reptile shops, and getting goofy *** anwsers I decided to find out myself. I bought my MVB's and a radiometer. I was getting 65 micro watts whem first plugged in, and now im getting 52. This is only about 3 weeks of having these bulbs.
quote='Tom' pid='319929' dateline='1317472804']
I'm not saying you are wrong. I have no way of knowing. I have no light meter and I've never tested the UV output of any MVB over time. But how do YOU know this? We are all here to learn and this is the first time I've heard this.
My personal experience: I've seen lots of reptiles of several species develop MBD under florescent UV tubes, but I have not ever seen a single case of MBD come out from under a MVB. It is certainly possible that there have been cases and I just haven't seen them, but I deal with a whole lot of reptiles in a whole lot of housing situations.
Tnewton said:
[/quote]
Cory said:I have a deep dome fixture on a stand so i can move it up and down, so that's not an issue. I put on one of the aquarium tops (the glass covers) and the humidity is at 65 with only the plant lights going so thats and improvement, And as far as the CHE I'm not to sure I have enough room for another fixture in the tank unless I removed the top and then it will be an issue with humidity, so my question now is should or could i go with an under tank heater for the cool side and just put it on a thermostat or is that a bad idea. Thanks in advance all your advice is great and much appreciated.
As you can see, there is lots of controversy! Since you will have Redfoots, specifically, why don't you do a search for Terryo's enclosures. She uses aquariums when they are in for the winter, with lots of plants for humidity. Her Redfoots do very well from hatchlings, and her enclosures are gorgeous. You can also PM her if you have any questions.
Here is one thread. Your aquarium is a bit smaller, but similar idea. She does use CHE's and describes how.
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-Pio-s-new-vivarium#axzz1ZXYONyCr
Meanwhile, this is an interesting thread!
Haha. No ball-busting here. Just trying to learn. What does your radiometer register for one of the tube florescent lights?
We had a thread a while back about the different types of light measuring meters. It got so complex and debatable that I just sort of tuned out. For people in AZ and Southern CA, who get warm days and sunshine year round, I just don't think it matters as much. I'd like to hear more from the people in the "frozen North" who depend on these bulbs all winter long. I know that some people up there sun there torts all summer long as much as possible and then use NO UV bulbs of any kind over the winter.
We had a thread a while back about the different types of light measuring meters. It got so complex and debatable that I just sort of tuned out. For people in AZ and Southern CA, who get warm days and sunshine year round, I just don't think it matters as much. I'd like to hear more from the people in the "frozen North" who depend on these bulbs all winter long. I know that some people up there sun there torts all summer long as much as possible and then use NO UV bulbs of any kind over the winter.
I dont have a tube uvb right now. Just my MVB'S. These bulbs should be ok to get me through winter, at least im hopeful. Id be a little scared to have no uvb on my torts all winter as it pretty much is 3/4 of the year up here...lol. In summer I go without uvb as they get outside daily for at least an hour.
@Tnewton: Just got a radiometer myself. Didn't want to throw out the expensive bulbs unless/until they were in fact "worn out." Would you mind telling me what the reading should be in order to still be effective. Thanks
I dont have a tube uvb right now. Just my MVB'S. These bulbs should be ok to get me through winter, at least im hopeful. Id be a little scared to have no uvb on my torts all winter as it pretty much is 3/4 of the year up here...lol. In summer I go without uvb as they get outside daily for at least an hour.
Hey DG,
I would say as long as it dont read zero your good. There is no exact number of micro watts of uvb that torts are supposed to get, just as long as they get some.
Hey DG,
I would say as long as it dont read zero your good. There is no exact number of micro watts of uvb that torts are supposed to get, just as long as they get some.
Ok so what wattage should I go with for the CHE? I guess I will plan on running it 24/7
Terryo (see earlier link) uses two 150W CHE's on either end with her aquariums (one is 78 gal).
However, she uses a tube light which does not give out heat. Since you have the MVB 100W on the other side, having the CHE on a thermostat with a wire probe to the substrate will prevent the enclosure from over heating. It may need to be on all of the time, or just at night, but the thermostat will take care of that for you.
Be sure to look at her pics, lots of good ideas.
However, she uses a tube light which does not give out heat. Since you have the MVB 100W on the other side, having the CHE on a thermostat with a wire probe to the substrate will prevent the enclosure from over heating. It may need to be on all of the time, or just at night, but the thermostat will take care of that for you.
Be sure to look at her pics, lots of good ideas.
M
Maggie Cummings
Guest
Ok...I don't have any way of measuring the UVB of my bulbs. I simply use my experience...All summer long all my animals are outside during the day and inside at night. All winter long (abt 7 months)they are inside and I mostly don't use UVB bulbs. If I have growing babies or sick babies I use a UVB light. I prefer T-Rex, if I can't get a T-Rex, I use a Powersun. I don't measure the rays. I just use them. I raise good healthy animals. I believe we can out think this thing. We can think about it too much and over talk the thing and recommend stuff when we shouldn't. I really just use my experience. I used spiral bulbs on 3 Sulcata hatchlings, one died, one was blinded and I found another home for the third. So that tells me not to use spiral bulbs. I don't like tube UVB bulbs. I like flood light type bulbs. I don't like CHE's, I DO use black light bulbs for extra heat and night time heat. I still go a lot by what I was taught, it worked then and it works now. I research stuff, and pay strict attention to my animals. Mostly it is them who will teach us. I don't now and have never used a UVB bulb for my box turtles and they are beautiful active and healthy. I have raised them from hatchlings. I do put them outside all summer and bring them in at night and for the winter months. They look good and act fine. They are healthy. My tortoises are healthy. I use calcium w/D3. I won't say they don't ever get sick, but they mostly don't. Right now Abscess Nose is not eating well but the abscess in his nasal cavity seems to be gone, he doesn't have mucous dripping anymore. He will eat softened squash but he won't graze or eat any lettuces. Personally, I think he is just spoiled, but time will tell. He does have a UVB bulb because of how he's acting. Anyhow, I just wanted to give my opinion on the bulbs, I think we need to feed a good varied diet and that makes up for a lot of what they are missing out on. I don't believe UVB bulbs are all that necessary. That what my experience tells me...
I have a Zoomet ReptiSun 5.0 Compact Fluorescent. It came in a combo pack with the Basking bulb. My BT loves the basking bulb and it regulated the temperature so well on the hot side.
I'll probally just use the ReptiSun as an expensive plant light and continue to use the Florescent tube plant light to get her the UVB. Lesson learned.
I'll probally just use the ReptiSun as an expensive plant light and continue to use the Florescent tube plant light to get her the UVB. Lesson learned.
Im not a fan of CHE either, I prefer the red or black bulbs if I need night heat. I do agree Maggie, I think we over think this and spend wayyyyy to much on products we dont need. As I started testing my MVB bulbs a few weeks ago im beginning to just say f@ck it and use a regular white light bulb for heat and a black bulb at night. My torts are outside when its nice but in winter their inside.
You dont wanna use the compact bulb just incase you didnt read that
fbsmith3 said:
You dont wanna use the compact bulb just incase you didnt read that
Yes I realize the Zoomed CFL was just an expensive waste of money. I'll use it as a plant light, since if the plants start to look bad, I can always not use it and they'll come back. If my Cleo looks bad, I'll feel guilty and spend a lot of money at the vet getting her better and feeling terribly guilty.
Sorry, Cory, you will have a baby Sulcata, now that I look over this thread again. Somehow I converted this to a Redfoot between page one and three, lol!
Anyway, sounds like you have most of what you will need and are paying attention to warmth and humidity. There is more than one way to do this, as you can see.
A lot of what you end up using will depend upon you paying attention to your tort, his activity level and appetite, etc.
Follow the advice from experienced keepers who have raised Sulcatas from hatchlings.
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-How-To-Raise-Sulcata-Hatchlings-and-Babies#axzz1ZbRusWoo
And make sure you have a good thermometer!
Anyway, sounds like you have most of what you will need and are paying attention to warmth and humidity. There is more than one way to do this, as you can see.
A lot of what you end up using will depend upon you paying attention to your tort, his activity level and appetite, etc.
Follow the advice from experienced keepers who have raised Sulcatas from hatchlings.
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-How-To-Raise-Sulcata-Hatchlings-and-Babies#axzz1ZbRusWoo
And make sure you have a good thermometer!
Cory said:
I usually use the 60s, but this will depend on your house and set-up. I like to use as little electricity as possible, so if a 60 maintains my temps, no need for a 100.
You really ought to run the CHE on a thermostat. They only cost around $25 and they will save you money on your electric bill AND maintain the right temps for your torts all the time.
I will be ordering the thermostat in the next day or so, I'm going to make a trip to a few local stores to see if they have any and depending if the don't I will just order online. Also I will try a 60 watt and see how it does and upgrade to a 100 watt if need be. Thanks, for all the wonderful advice and help. I really appreciate it, and thank you all for not biting my head off like a lot of people do in forums.
I personally would only use the CHE at night. During the day your tort needs temps to vary. Unless you live in antartica you should be fine with just the heat during the day and CHE in thermo as Tom stated at about 75 degrees. It dont get that cold im SC does it???
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